gwman

Which do you guys think is the better one based upon cooling the best. Also what modifications had to be done to install either one? Thanks a bunch.
Graham

Fastbird

iTrader: (5)

OK, I have had both. THe Griffin one requires modification to the fram rails if you get the "direct replacement" one that is made for our cars. THe Be Cool on fits with out any modification because it is about 1/4" smaller in width. Better investment IMO.

Steve

GregWestphal

iTrader: (1)

There are actually 2 different Griffin models for our cars: one with 2 rows of 1" tubes, one with 2 rows of 1-1/4" tubes. I couldn't fit the bigger one in my IROC, but the smaller one (heheh, it's still HUGE! ) does fit w/out any serious modifictaions. All I had to do was put some spacers between the fan mounts and the supports and modify the top cover some to fit over the radiator and A/C condenser.

------------------
Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

gwman

Greg do you happen to know what the model numbers are for the Griffin (the smaller one)
and how much it costs. Thanks

GregWestphal

iTrader: (1)

The Griffin rad with dual 1" tubes and an internal cooler (for tranny fluid) is model # 6-282AE-BAX. I got mine for a little over $300, but that place wasn't able to sell enough radiators to continue being a distributor for them. The actual manufacturer's cost is a little under $300, so how much is costs depends on how much mark-up is being charged.

------------------
Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

JoelOl75

The 31x19 dual 1" core from summit GRI-1-25272-X and costs $181.95

The 31x19 dial 1 1/4" is GRI-1-55272-X and costs $281.95

Plus if the 10% off offer is still good it will be cheaper...

GregWestphal

iTrader: (1)

The only problem is that they aren't direct replacements for third-gen radiators, so they might not have the correct fittings in the correct locations, and I'm sure more than just minor modifications will be necessary to get them to fit. Of course, this all depends on how much work a person wants to do in order to fit the radiator in vs. cost. Those are -very- good prices.

------------------
Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

Racerwannabe

Uh oh. I just ordered the Griffen model mentioned above, still waiting for delivery. I was not expecting to modify the frame rails!!! Would you mind posting some details of what you had to do? Thanks...

------------------
91 RS/3.1 - Stock except stereo system, daily driver.

86 IROC - T-Tops, 350/TH350 w/shift kit, 2600 Stall, 3.42 geared 12 bolt, Performer 750cfm, Performer RPM, Comp Cams 280 magnum, Hooker 1 5/8" shorties, Flowmaster Y pipe, 3" to Flowmaster 2 chamber Dual outlet.

JoelOl75

OK, sorry about the confusion, but he mentioned the griffen nascar radiator was not a 'direct replacement' in a prev post.

First thing is if you have a small hose attaching to the radiator from the heater. You will need to run this into the bottom hose somehow. I had a friend weld a 3/4" pipe into a larger (forget the size) pipe and just spliced it into the hose.

I removed the rubber bumpers from the frame and put a thin rubber (tube) in the bottom. I couldn't re-use the upper support and since the tops of the electric fans mount there I had to make brakets for them, and a way to mount the radiator. I had to cut some material off the upper support area, and since the hood wouldn't shut with my first design upper support (that went over the radiator like stock) I just drilled 1/8" holes in the top of the flange and bolted it into the flange on the radiator with self tapping screws.



If you don't have access to do this kind of stuff get the becool direct fit radiator. It will cost ALOT more though some people say the ease of installation more than makes it worth it. I did all the mods and had it mounted the first time to find the hood didn't shut and my 1st brakets were tossed and I started over and still got done in about 4 hours. I also had scrap material and all the tools and parts around. Bare minimum is a vise, some sheet metal, screws, and a air angle grinder with a cut off wheel.

JoelOl75

Ohh.. you may not have the same kind of trouble I had because the camaros have more hood clearence in the front... You may get away with light mods to the stock support.

gwman

Hey Racer Let me know how your installation goes! I am curious to know what exactly you did to get it to fit. Did you get to NASCAR one with 1.00" tubes or 1.25" tubes?

JoelOl75

If you don't have the smaller heater hose (some models didn't) it would be alot easier. If you don't have electric fans, easier yet, although you should keep you shroud if you have a clutch fan.

If i'm scaring you away, it's real, don't even open the box. Send it back.

For me though, the money saved on this big bass-add radiator compared to a direct fit was well worth it.

If you have an auto transmission, and aftermarket cooler will be required because there is no provisions for it. It's a good idea to have one anyway, but this requires cutting the lines and hosing it to the cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

The aluminum plate in the pic is where I cut material out and being the core comes up further than the sheetmetal, I made the plate to move airflow through it. It will look like hell if you leave it showing. At least that edge trim will dress it up. have no regrets about leaving the top of the rdiator exposed since it looks alot better IMO with all that aluminum saying... I'm not stock.

Cutting the framerails sounds quite severe though. The lower x-member I didn't modify except for removing the snap-in rubber gizmos.

Again this is a firebird so I had to tip the radiator back for hood clearence. Although I imagine now about thinking about it that for a camaro with the dual snorkel intake it still may pose a prob.

Don't open the box if you are afraid of tackling this job. I'm feeling guilty now, but if there's a will there's definatly a way! And considering the be-cools direct fit for an auto costs $541 from summit that just as well pays for aggrevation and a much better aftermarket tranny cooler.

And put it this way, I didn't know about this fitment prob until I tried getting it in there since I had no computer or internet at the time (But I'm a machinist, so working with metal and measurements is my life)

I guarantee you, if you get thst radiator in there you will NEVER have a cooling prob because of it. Actually my car cools too well and I had to up my thermostat to 170.

Thats the dual 1" not the 1 1/4...

I hope I gave you enough info to either tackle the proj, or scare you clear away. A excellent aluminum radiator for under $200 is the griffen. It will do just as well or better than the be-cool, but for the hassle, over $300 has been put back in your pocket.

Racerwannabe

Great info guys, thanks for taking the time to explain this.

gwman, I ordered the model # 6-282AE-BAX from Summit. It's dual 1" tubes with auto tranny cooler and is specifically intended for third gen f-bodys. It cost about $370.00 and I'll be happy to let you know how it goes.

Joel, thanks again man, I'm sure I can get it to fit, really, I'm a wiz with zip ties and pliers.

gwman

Joel thanks for the info. Mine is a 91 RS TBI so I have the heaterhose. How did you hook this up in yours since the Griffin doesn't have the connection on the radiator? Also, I have electric fans but they're aftermarket so they shouldn't be a problem, I'll just mount them through the core.

Scott_92RS

So which one cools the best? Griffen or BeCool?

GregWestphal

iTrader: (1)

Whichever one you can get to fit into your car. The model I have (and that Racerwannabe just ordered) fit very well, with only minor modifications to fit the fans and the top cover. Everything else fit just like it's supposed to. I can tell you that I had no problems keeping my coolant temp down below 180-190 degrees road-racing in 90+ degree Memphis heat last year.

------------------
Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4

JoelOl75

To add in the extra heater hose I took two pieces of heavy wall pipe

The big one (I can't rmember the size off hand) I cut about 5" long and the small one (3/4" OD) I cut 1 1/4".

Drilled a hole in the big pipe dead center and tig welded the small pipe in.

Then I just spliced this into the lower radiator hose and clamped it up.

SillyWabbit

Damn, I don't think I'd wanna put that much trouble into the radiator, and I don't think I'd want to modify the car that much away from stock. So I guess when I buy a new radiator, I'll pay the extra for a BeCool. Better start saving now I guess, unless I can find a cheaper vendor to sell it to me.