DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I recently aquired a Torker Intake for very cheap, it's not the torker 2, but the older one with the oil fill hole. i talked to Edelbrock and they said that the only diff is that oil fill tube.

i know i have top end flow issues, do you think the torker would provide a significant gain over my Performer intake ?


here is one similar...







-Dave

Rick King

In a work YES

I believe that the manifold is for 200 rpms to 6500 rpms

lataert a nd

GB


rk

ljnowell

The question is, do you need it?

Too many people install that exact same manifold and then come to websites and bitch about how crappy it is. If you NEED a single plane manifold, your heads and cam are proper for it, then yes it will be a good manifold. If you dont, then no, it will suck for you.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

well, i've got a decent Lunatti cam (485 lift), however i'm only running my 882 heads right now untill i can get my hands on another set of double humps. the 882's are P&P'ed so they do flow decent.

i guess it wouldn't be hard to just try it out, not like intake gaskets will break my budget



thanks for the posts!




-Dave

N.J.-SLICK-1

Well from what i see that you have listed on the motor you are currently running? i'd stay with the performer! you are running a hyd. roller with only .485 lift and the duration @ .050 is not listed so i'd assume it's around 220-230* tops! and you rear gearing and torque converter will also have alot to do with an intake swap too! what you will see on the top end may feel good, but you will lose somthing on the bottom end! and thats whats most important! getting the weight moving in a hurry, so if you're not seeing or shifting at 6,500? don't bother! and give us some more background on your combination? gearing, stall speed, curb wt., duration, etc..etc.,etc.! OH BTW!!! don't change your heads from the 882 to double hump fuelies!!! the castings you have in stock form flow far better than fuelies and you have them ported already! if you are on a budget i'd consider a set of vortecs with screw it studs, 1.60 exh. valves, and have the guides machined for larger valve lifts! these things move a very respectible amount of air compared to even a stock bowtie phase 2 head in stock form!!!! look into it!

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

yah, i know the 882's flow decently, and probably better than my old DH's but the 76cc chambers suck and the 882's are well known for cracking.

for gearing i have a TH400 HD with a 3.23 LSD out back, but here in a month or so i'll be tossing in a rebuilt TH400 with a 2500 stall, and swapping out the 3.23's for 3.73's. the TH400 into 3.23's is a baaaaaaad combo. i have an easy 350 HP and i can barrely power break the meat back there (275.60.15's).

i'm assuming i'll be running at a bit higher average RPM's with the 3.73's and the engine has never seen over 6K rpm, lol. It makes real good low end torque, but i'm not sure if it's the exhaust or intake but it's kinda lacking a bit in the upper RPM's. at first i assumed it was the Performer intake since it's not exactly the greatest.. the Performer RPM was too tall so i was kinda stuck with the performer...

here is my cam card.. sorry it's a 480 not 485..



the 1.52 Magnum rollertips probably give it a bit more lift tho....

http://whitelightning2.kicks-***.org...20exhaust1.wma

sounds a bit mean to be such a small cam, maybe i got the grind numbers mixed up.. 5 yrs was a long time ago.. and the engine only has 4K miles on it

of course the grind number's gotta be on the back of the cam

N.J.-SLICK-1

thanks for the additional info, and you seem to be on the right track with the change to a 2,500 stall converter and 3.73 gearing! but as i said before, going with the torker is gonna make matters worse if you are having problems power braking the tires to spin? if i were you i'd first check the distributor to see if it's advancing at the proper rate and if you have'nt had it recurved? recurve it! then i'd also get 4*(degree) offset key way for the crank and advance the cam 4* from the 112* to 108* this will increase your bottom end torque and make the car feel much more responsive! and i also noted you were planning on replacing the trans too? so it must be lacking in some department and really needs to be done! get that out of the way and i still feel that changing the heads for the sole purpose of raising compression is not gonna offset what you are giving up in sheer air flow!!!! remember it's an increase in air and fuel that gives you more power!!!! the point and a half in compression will give you more torque too but at what cost???? thats why i suggested you advance the cam to bring up your cranking pressure and this to will incresae your torque! now back to the vortecs, did you know that they also have a combustion chamber rated at 64 c.c.? but most that i've runn across actually have real numbers of 58c.c.! now that will do exactly what you wanted from the fuelies (RAISE COMPRESSION!)and out flow the ported 882s and the fuelies put together!!! you will have to purchase a new vortec performer intake? but you can easily sell the performer and torker you have!! the mods i mentioned prior cost very little and just involve a little work and recurving a distributor is nothing at all! do these things and you should be running mid to very low 13s with the regular radials you have on the car with great tuning and driving! SLICK. [B]BTW??? WHAT IS IT CURRENTLY RUNNING? E.T./MPH? AND HOW DO YOU NORMALLY RUN IT? OPEN/CLOSED EXH.? STREET TIRES/SLICKS?

Cruz'N Bruz'R

The first gen torker is probably a better single plane than the torker II, the first gen is at least a straight runner design. Your cam, and worked heads are a perfect match for the torker. You just need to match a stall to that and it'll be fun on the street.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

the trans is 100% shot, i have reverse still but no foreward gears. i got 30 miles out of this one

my last run, which was actually in summer of 2003 on the 275.60.15's in the back was a 13.5 @108. i've run way faster on smaller tires but ofcourse had traction issues. like i said, the gearing sucks.. it launches like a bat outta hell if i toss my 14" steelies with 65 series tires on the back. these huge tires killed it. I have yet to run slicks

I'll deffenetly look into the offset key, back when i had the double roller set in there i had it on the 2* advanced keyway and it did run a bit better.. it's got a new curve set but i had to reuse the old springs, one of the new ones jumped to his death beneath the car

at the strip i had some side dumps made for the shorties, so basically open headers. on the street just single 3" through a Flowmaster 80 series..


Thanks for the advice!

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

Stick with the performer intake, it is the cylinder heads that are causing the car to lay down in the upper RPMs. I ran 12.8's with an Edelbrock Performer intake on a 350 with a camshaft similar to yours.

N.J.-SLICK-1

I agree unknown! and if he does what is suggested he'll be very satisfied! B.T.W.! you seem to have it dialed in quite well and when you put that trans in you may be even more surprised! since you have no idea just how badly it was slipping and wasting power? good luck and please keep us posted. SLICK

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

yah, this is the 2nd TH400 that's been in the car, the first one was rock solid, then started to slip after a few months.. the 2nd one lasted a few days.. the 200R that came stock in the car lasted a week with this engine bolted to it..

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

What are you running for a torque converter?

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

right now, the stock converter from an '82 Suburban 3/4 ton. so it's probably like 1800-2000.. if that..

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

It's funny how paranoid a lot of people get over running a single plane intake instead of a dual plane. They're always so afraid that they're going to lose a TON of low end. Your cam should be adequate enough for the torker intake, and if you do get 3.73's installed, all you'd need to do is pick the right torque convertor. A good set of headers always helps too. I've run the Weiand X-Celerator single plane (#7546) on my 350 in my 69 Camaro for years with great results. I have 3.73 gears and I can roast the tires for days on end! Doesn't sound like I'm missing a lot of low end does it? My cam is similar in lift and duration to yours. I've run this intake on both 441 casting heads and now fuelies, and it's worked fine with both. I guess the one big advantage with mine is I don't have to do the math on the proper convertor since I run a 4 speed manual. The performer rpm is a decent dual plane intake, but I wouldn't even waste my time with a standard performer. It's almost identical to a factory four barrel intake except it's aluminum instead of cast iron. In reality, the torker isn't as radical as people make it out to be. Besides, they wouldn't call it a "torker" if it didn't produce any low end at all. If you want to go radical, you're talking about ones like a weiand team g or the edelbrock victor jr. My dad runs a single plane holley street dominator on his 74 vette with a th400 and stock rearend gears, and he has no problems either. As long as you have decent rearend gears and the right convertor, you'll get into the proper rpm range for a single plane pretty quick. Don't let the chicken littles with a puny performer (stock aluminum) intake worry you too much.

N.J.-SLICK-1

Thats hardly the case dude! we all know he "CAN" run a tunnel ram and dual 750 double pumpers! but he is probably street driving this car and has'nt even fully sorted out this combination as of yet? and he also has'nt had this motor near the high side of 6,000 rpm? so why recommend an intake designed for anything higher? i forgot to mention just swapping some carb spacers from 1/2 in. to 2 in. as a plan to add some plenum(sp) as opposed to a full intake swap! my bird with a stock 400 w/ headers, small hyd. cam, performer intake, and 750 d.p. carb went 12.09 at 111! so why would i tell him any different? and here's another example? STOCK ELIMINATORS are running those same crappy cast iron intakes you are clowning and are making very good power with them! CAST IRON!!! THINK ABOUT THAT FOR A MINUTE!

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

I run a super victor on my setup. I am not afraid of a single plane intake, for his application he does not need one. If you look at any dyno comparison of a single plane to the dual plane on say a 400 horsepower 350, the modern design dual plane always makes more power (both hp and tq) up until about 5000-5500 rpm where the single plane usually makes a 5-10 more peak horsepower.

His heads are holding him back, it is not the intake. The only thing he will gain going to a single plane is traction from the torque he is going to lose.

I ran 12's at 106 mph with a "chicken little puny performer intake". I could probably switch back to a dual plane and run just as fast as I am currently with my victor, but I like the distribution properties of a single plane with my nitrous setup.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

well.. i guess the only official way to see the difference would be to either Dyno it with both intakes, or once it's got the new tranny, stall and gears to see how much diff that alone makes to it in the 1/4 mile. low 13's/high 12's and i'll be happy enough, maybe i'll swap out the intake and take it for a couple runs one weekend just to see what happens...

as for the 6K rpm... this engine only has 4K miles on it, i've had it around there but it dosen't seem to make much power above 5.5K. i'm sure the engine could rev higher.. we'll see once it's got more miles on it and i work some of the gremlins out..

i still have a pesky vaporlock problem once in a while.. i need to re-route the return line to the passenger side of the car so i don't have to run a fuel line under the harmonic balancer.. plus i need to get the old electric pump out of the tank.. i'm sure that's putting a little load on my mechanical Holley


progress is slow.. but steady

P.S. at about 6-10 MPG, i don't drive it on the street much

N.J.-SLICK-1

THANKS, UNKNOWN! You know where i'm coming from, and i do agree that once the trans,converter,gears, & and his fuel line is rerouted he'll be quite happy! then try those vortecs w/a mild port job on them, and he'll be happier still! as you can see the more we talk the more we find problems that need to be addressed and the fuel system vapor locking plus the in tank pump arrangement are some small gremlins that can really hamper performance!!! btw? you do very little street driving or none at all PURPLE????

unknown_host

iTrader: (1)

I didnt even see that in your sig, you need to ditch that 600 Edelbrock NOW. With an aftermarket fuel pump and a Demon 650, I went from inconsistant 13.7's to consistant 12.88's.

N.J.-SLICK-1

SEE WHAT I MEAN!!!! HE'S JUST SCRATCHING THE SURFACE WITH HIS COMBINATION!!!! test,tune, and test again before you scrap your combo! and try to hook up with a chassis dyno shop so you can get real world numbers and approximate E.T. & M.P.H. figures! you get to know where you should shift from the horse power and torque curves. oh? and i'd atleast step up to a holley/demon type 750 double pumper also!

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

I had a Holley on it for a while, it was a PITA.. this Edelbrock setup much easier and i get a bit better gas mileage... I have an Edelbrock 750 that needs a rebuild.. that's always an option..


I like to take the car out in the summer at night and do some **** cooking once in a while, and i've driven it to work a few times just for kicks. it's still very streetable aside from the torque converter.


this summer i'm planning on taking it to the V6Z24.com bash along with my Z24 just to get it some strip time.. lol i've been tossing around the idea of installing a hitch and trailering my Z24 up there

i don't think my 5 speed Z24 would like towing the T/A so i'd finally put all that torque to work


thanks for all the good avice guys!

N.J.-SLICK-1

Any time dude! be talking with ya from time to time.

AutoX86Z28

ive got a buddy on that site midnightriderz24 i think his sn is.

i agreee with you, my edelbrock was very easy to work with. but now i will step up a few cfms. me and you have a very similar setup despite the transmissions

btw ive heard a sound clip of your z24, not to shabby.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

lol, yah i put alot of work into that exhaust. it's mean
if you fire both cars up next to eachother, the Z24 is actually alot louder than the T/A lol.


welp, just for kicks, an update.. just bought the new 2500 (2200-2600) stall on Ebay. should be here in a few days :lala:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7945622524

$122.. not bad