I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

I'm going to need to get my injector wires. These wires were burned off my wiring harness (wires too small? fuse to small?) when I got the car. The little connectors were melted. Was unsure what they were, but now that I do know, I will be keeping these separate from the battery wires. Give me a week, Ill order those up as well.

Oh and get this, turned my car around so the front looked out the garage so I can get more wrench time since the days are longer and the back of my garage is pitch black by 7pm. After moving it, my power steering started to leak from the cap, and what I hear is that when this happens I need to get a whole new pump, since a cap isn't going to fix the leak even if it is coming from the cap. AHHHH, I thought I was getting closer to her running.

Well thanks about the injector fuses and such. Now I have to figure out how I am routing these to the Junction Box.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Injector fuses? What? There is one 20a fuse in the TPI wiring harness that pops when ANYTHING in the engine bay shorts. ANYTHING. It interrupts power to the alternator's voltage-sensing circuit, and kills the power from the alternator. There are also some fusible links further down the individual wires for the fans and such, but these are not part of the battery cables. The only thing I noted as being a "fusible link" was actually just a five-way splice for power leads. Pretty dirty method, they should have just ran an underhood fuse box and eliminated all of these problems. I might anyway.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

Heres a schematic of the fuselinks underhood


2nd schematic:

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

See, I have the same diagram, but under close inspection of the wire that Fusible link D is supposed to be in, I saw no color separation or difference in insulation thickness. I think the fusible link might be after C145, of which half of C145 is included with this battery cable setup, as is In-Line Fuse #2.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

I have Fuselink D (Multi Port Injection and to fans.) Fuselink D is on the same wire that goes from generator to battery. and looks like this stock:


Stock wiring (in picture above) 1 connector to MULTIPORT and 1 to FANS and that wire came from generator to battery + terminal.

Thats Fuselink D

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Darn, you guys are right. Looks like I'm one of the eleventy thousand that thinks that connector is a fusible link.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

So the orange wire coming out of the splice is the fusible link? Worthless factory color codes. I threw away my old cables, but still have some good pictures I took for Gary, and I think that would be correct, the wire does appear smaller in diameter than the other one. Oh well, all else fails I'll just order a single wire weatherpack connector and splice in a fuse, or a circuit breaker. I want to re-do my whole underhood wiring to make it cleaner and install a proper fuse box anyways.

Edit: Oh, I think this picture clarifies what we're looking at. Sorry, no scanner.

87_Injected

I just ordered these cables from Gary. It was a nice install. However, prior to my ordering them, I experienced a low voltage issue at idle and especially when putting the AC on. Now with these installed, the car voltage stays at a steady 13 volts while driving and at idle. However, once I hit the AC switch, the voltage drops back down to near 8 volts and my turn signals start flashing really slow. What is causing this? Seems like I'm back at square one again.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

It's a common alternator issue.

Warmer weather is both harder on the alternator and also makes our cars idle lower. In my experience, the alternator seems to pretty much switch off once the RPM's drop below about 700 RPM.

Could adjust the min idle screw on the side of the throttle body. But it's tricky to get it set to where this eliminates the low idle without sacrificing a smooth idle/smooth shift from Park to Gear.

The other issue is that this time of year when you use the A/C, turning the A/C on will turn on the compressor and both fans. A large peak increase in power consumption. During the hot hot summertime, the fans will probably be on already before you turn on the A/C. Or at least one fan will be on.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

So with this cable with fuse in it which is for the injectors, this goes to the positive terminal or grounded? Right now mine is grounded and didn't get this done with Gary.

I was thinking what problems could I see having this unhooked or grounded. I am starting my car for the first time in 3 years this weekend and don't want any electrical fires or anything of the sort. Thanks guys.

87_Injected

What alternator will prevent this from happening? I have a new one already in the car which was installed last summer.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Anybody use these cables with a ministarter. I understand mini-starters have the connections about 2" further back than stock starters. Will the cables be long enough? Should I specify an extra 2" on the starter wire?

Also, like asked before, I have a big old ring terminal for my amp power wire on the positive post. Will this fit nicely under the positive cable?

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

I know with my Powermaster starter the stock cable is too short. If the battery was secured, it wouldn't reach.

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Ok, thanks. I just ordered the powermaster the other day.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

First, has any of you other buyers had their negative cable come in without loom, or any wire that should have loom come without...?

Second, dang, Gary hasn't responded in weeks as to why one of my cables came without loom? Only way he responds is when I send an URGENT message with HIGH PRIORITY. But I don't want to seem like I am heckling him.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Now that I don't know. I've run a stock alternator on the original cables and the new cables. I've run a Powermaster 140A alternator on the stock cables. All had the same problem you mention.

I never had this issue when I lived in Canada, as it was
a) Cooler summer temps.
b) No traffic jams.
c) Rarely ran the air conditioning.

Living in Houston, I deal with traffic jams, heat, and air conditioning all the time. As long as I'm moving, there is no problem. It's only during idling in hot conditions (especially when the headlights are on too) that I run into the low idle voltage issue.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

I have these cables with the mini-starter from Skipwhite on ebay. I believe they are a Tilton-style gear reduction starter. 3hp, and it's pretty scary hearing the car start. :P

I haven't gotten to DD the car since before they got these cables, but I noticed the low idle voltage problem with the stock cables and a new alternator.

An alternator option I plan on trying to adapt in is the new AD244. I believe my 2000 S10 has the CS130D, and the AD244 is supposed to be a plug and play swap for that. I think the CS130D has a different plug than the CS130 that we came stock with, so we might need to upgrade it. I got a CS130D from a yard once, but didn't look at it to see if it was the right connector, and returned it the next day because they were supposed to be selling me a CS144. The AD244 only has an output of 130 amps or so, but at peak they can spit out 200, and at idle they have almost double the amperage of the CS144's and all of the 130's. I figure I use most of my power at idle anyway, so it seems like a worthy upgrade.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

more info coming..

Theking

iTrader: (1)

fixed.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean by quoting that post ?
You didnt give any information about what was asked man.
Just a "fixed"

So you have any input of what was written in that post ?

And also, it will be double fused with 20A cause the innovative wiring pigtail is connected to the fe-male connector in the stock car wiring, and that wiring goes to the stock 20A in-line fuse NO.2 wich also is fused.
So that means that, that wire is double fused, the extra fuseholder thats mounted on the 88-92 innovative wiring isnt really needed cause that wire is already fused with the same holder and all.

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

As soon as I take some pics, I'll post a picture of how I rewired my starter/solenoid, etc... in attempt to fix the hot start issue (longtubes cooking starter solenoids). I still occasionally have a slight issue with this, so I may need input if these cables will help. Pics coming soon..

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

bump

aceman1

has any one every used this innovativewiring for a v6? is it the same as one of the packages they have for a v8? i want to upgrade and im having trouble finding somewhere that knows what they are talking about. please help

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

I'd send Gary an email at the website re the V6 question.. I've used his kit on a Chevy Blazer and it fit like a glove.

91rscammie

iTrader: (2)

I know this is old, I was wondering if you used the ad244. Or what you found out about using it with our cars. If you did let me know what you h to do to use it? I also pm'ed you hope to get a response

Firechickenv6

Hey guys, im kind of new here but been a third gen owner for quite a while. I tend to read alot of the threads but haven't been posting.
I also have a question regarding the wiring for a v6. I've tried emailing Gary twice now over the last 2 weeks and heard nothing back. Is his customer service crap, or am I just having bad luck? I'm in need of a good set of cables as mine are badly corroded and causing starting issues. I'd much rather buy a set from him over the undersized GM set, if I can get ahold of him that is...

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

it is well worth it. it is very good quality and 100x better than GM factory unit

Firechickenv6

Does anyone know if there is another way to get ahold of Gary besides email? I've been getting frustrated that I havent heard back from him yet and its been over 2 weeks..

Scamo-2.8

iTrader: (16)

I just got my set from Gary for the Camaro and they look awesome! He's done a great job with them, hopefully I'll be installing them on Friday.
Quick communication, lightening fast shipping and a great quality product.

LAFireboyd

iTrader: (3)

Everyone's cables look so good that I had Gary make a set for my 1987 Formula TPI. They just arrived today, and they look great.

'87 TPI Firebirds are one-of-a-kind(different than -'86 'birds[due to fans], different than '88+ 'birds[due to serp drive], different than '87 Camaros[due to battery location]), so this was based on pics I sent Gary of my car's stock cables laying on a tape measure.

He duplicated the stock colors by making all the main cables and lead wires black, per my request. And through a series of emails, we worked-out a way to make them more workable than stock regarding the fusible link and its lead wire. So for anyone with an '87 TPI 'bird(Formula, TA or GTA), Gary now has a stock-ish template from which to work.

Adding to the fusible link discussion in this thread, yes, that is a fusible link in the stock cables, and that's what we changed. The stock cables have a single lead wire off the positive cable, and that lead goes to a fusible link, where it's then split into two lead wires, one from the fusible link to a fuse which then goes to a connector, the other from the fusible link straight to the same connector.

As you can see in the attached pics, we used two separate lead wires off the positive cable(rather than one and splitting it at a fusible link). Then to eliminate the fusible link, we ran each lead wire to its own fuse, then from each fuse to the same connector. We also made the lead wires the same length, which will make them easier to connect to the car's existing connector, and it will also make for a simpler, cleaner-looking battery compartment.

As you can see, they turned-out nice. And I've test-fit the connector with its new wire configuration and lengths, and it will workout just as planned. I'm very pleased, and I look forward to installing them.

coryprine

iTrader: (4)

Ordered a set Friday... will have to wait a good while to get these as I received an automated email stating that he is out of town until April 1st. Ugh......

Stangski09

iTrader: (10)

Ya I just ordered a set last week.
Cant wait to get them!

Duane's 91 Z/28

iTrader: (1)

Bringing this thread back from the dead. I will be ordering these cables very soon.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

You will love them

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

This is no new concept, been using welding cable for years to upgrade wiring. It has finer strands in it than standard auto cables, so it is very flexible yet carries a heavy current.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WELDING-CABLE-2-0-10-5-BLACK-5-RED-CAR-BATTERY-LEADS-USA-NEW-Gauge-Copper-AWG-/261070495836?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc903a05c

alex722607

iTrader: (3)

During the summer I had to change my oil pan. When I was lowering the engine back down, I pinched and cut through the positive battery cable. And to add to it the orange wire coming out of the "fusible link" had its insulation melted. Needless to say, I gotta replace my battery cable. So what do I do about the fusible link. (The insulation on that wire did melt soooo ---> ?) I have read this and it just goes back and forth between it being a fusible link and it not. Can it be replaced by utilizing a fuse? Also I was thinking of upgrading the headlight harness by the same token. After I have him incorporate another wire into the positive battery cable for the headlights, I should probably protect it with a fuse, would 20 amps suffice?

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

You could splice a fuse into the lead that goes to C145, which would be the female single weatherpack connector on my earlier pictures, IIRC. My cars been sitting for the last few years, so I never bothered. It only goes to the cooling fan relays. The orange wire *is* the fusible link. The black lump is just a junction. My FSM's are in storage, so I can't tell you what the amp rating would be. I'd hazard a guess at 30 amps.

Headlights use a lot of power. 20 amps should be fine for a T/A. IIRC each lamp is 60w on high, so 10a for two. For a Camaro, 20 amps would probably pop every time you used high beams (4x60w).

J.C. Denton

iTrader: (1)

Old thread but I thought I would share my experience with innovative wiring.

First I have to say, absolutely great cables and service.

I ordered a 1/0 HO set for my 92 Bird in October 2017 for my upcoming V8 swap. Received it about two or three weeks later (thanks to the german customs)... I was very impressed of the quality and finish of the cables. But a few days later I recognized, that I must have gotten the wrong cables. The negative cable was ok, but the positive to the starter was waaaay too short. My 92 has the battery on the drivers side.
I emailed Gary and he responded very fast. Told him the problem and he said that he must have forgotten to ask if I have a Bird or Camaro. He shipped out a set for a Camaro with the battery on the passenger side. He said that it was his fault and asked me to measure my existing cable lenghts & stuff. I did so and he sent me another cable set without any charge or problem. Got that yesterday from customs office and now everything is perfect. He even let me keep the wrong cable set because sending it back to the US might be a little pricey.

I have to say I am very pleased with Gary and his work and highly recommend him and his cables!

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

its a great product

sjorgens

I have an 84 Trans Am and am looking to do this big 3 upgrade. What were your experiences? I have never done anything like this before. I also have a *cough* knight rider nose on my car
cheers!

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

I have an 83 trans am my car is a crossfire injection. still working strong 8 years later with daily driving and driving through new England harsh winters. here's my advice after measuring your cable lengths add 4 -5 inches to your measurement.


there's nothing wrong with knight rider cars

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

http://innovativewiring.com/?page_id=182

kenbob

Can you please private message me with the guys email for the power cable. And can someone please tell me where the fused wires go to mine burnt out because of a backfeeding ground that's all fixed but I need to know what components these wires go to please anyone contact me