TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

One day, while searching for 1/0 Gauge Ground Strap, I ran across the website of Gary Clark, owner/operator of InnovativeWiring, where he had a product listed for 82-92 Camaros with Side Post Batteries. It was a 1/0 Starter Cable, 2 Gauge Alternator, 10 Gauge Fan connector on the positive, and a 1/0 gauge engine ground and a 2 gauge for the body ground on the negative.

I emailed him and asked him if he could make all of the cables 1/0 gauge except the fan connector. He told me he could, and all I had to do was put it in the comments section of my order. I ordered December 19th at night, and they were shipped out on the 21st, and hit my home on the 24th. Unfortunately, I wasn't home to get them until the 8th!

I finally got around to installing them, and the negative cable fits like a glove. A little snug, but that's only because the bulk of 1/0 cable. The positive cable I found to be a little different.

I have a 1987 350 TPI, but I upgraded to a 88 Serpentine setup. It seemed the positive cable I got may have fit the V-belt alternator, but not the driver's side serpentine setup. I also couldn't find the fan connector that was supposed to be plugged in.

I emailed Gary, and explained my situation. He asked me to take off my positive cable and measure it out. I told him that his starter cable length was dead on where it was, and that the alternator lead I had for the serpentine setup was 10" longer. That leaves for a little bit of slack, but I bet I'm gonna have some fun running this HUGE wire. I also told him about the 3 way splice in the alternator lead (that black connector that OH SO MANY mistake for a fusible link), and asked him to put two extra leads. I took pictures, and measured out the cable, and not only did he put in two extra leads, but he also include the weatherpak fuse holder that goes to the alternator regulator, the male weatherpak connector that plugs into the harness from the fuse, and the female weatherpak connector that connects to the harness for the ECM! It's a OEM-style bolt-in Big Two.

You still need 1/0 Gauge engine to body ground. You can do this with two 4 gauge ground straps. I got mine for $4 each from AllElectronics.

This is a bolt in Big 3 Wiring Upgrade that can help out everything in your car that uses your power! Headlights, stereo systems, interior lighting, whatever!

I am 90% sure that this is a bolt-in for all 85-92 TPI Camaros, you'll just need to specify whether you have V-belts or Serpentine for the longer or shorter alternator cable. TBI Guys, you might use the style that I bought in the first place, so he might already have product up for you!

As for 'Birds, I think your guy's batteries are on the other side? I dunno. But this guy could probably make one to your specifications!

Don't have any installed pics yet, but will get them up ASAP.

Meanwhile, here is the pic he sent me of the new cable.


And for a review of this seller, he is an upright guy, and these cables are QUALITY. You couldn't make them yourself for this cost. $89 shipped. Price might change depending on the added cost of the fuse connector/etc. I would gladly buy a set from him for any future third or fourth gen. These look like lifetime battery cables.

burnout88

I emailed him last week about how my 88 TPI cables looked different then what he had showing on his site and he recommended I do what you did (take of and measure) But I have not gotten around to taking mine off to do the measuring. I wonder since he did yours if it will now bolt right into my 88 TPI. Did you notice any improvements with the new cables?

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

I'd been having an unexplicable hard start when warm, and the 1/0 Ground Cable fixed that. Other than that, the car starts faster, everything's a little bit brighter. That little 14 Gauge factory body ground is a joke!

It'd probably be a direct bolt in. I have no idea if I'm using a non-standard cable routing, but I'm running the alternator wire behind the accessories (there seems to be a path behind there for wiring, it's open, and nothing hits it, so it's good.) and that required the length I'm getting. All TPI's should have the fuse and connectors, if not, your car might have come with a fusible link there, and I got a retrofit set of cables. Either way, this should be a bolt in for all TPI's as long as you order the right alternator cable length.

burnout88

Ok you sold me. I going to get a set of his cables.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

1-2ft lengths of 1/0 is supercrazyhardcore overkill. i should get something like this made for my camaro, though, as ive been having lots of trouble with the side-post terminals on the cables.

burnout88

I think Scaryone went a little overboard with all 1/0 cables. I am going to with 1/0 gauge copper cable for the starter cable, and 2 gauge copper cable for the alternator and 10 gauge wire going to the fan connector, 1/0 gauge copper cable for the engine ground and 2 gauge for the body ground.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Rule #37: There is no such thing as "over kill." There is only "open fire," and "I need to reload."

Cables fit GREAT! But I broke the positive terminal off of my starter. My OEM starter. My starter, that is older than I am, and has never been replaced. O.o

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

Sweet. I have been planning on doing the Big Three. I have just been to lazy to figure out what I needed and measure lengths, now I can just order them and be done with it.

arrowcamaro

iTrader: (2)

I had one of his battery kits, and headlight kits on my Impala. Top notch product with out a doubt.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

this is true, i bought a set of custom cables from a guy online, he makes them in his spare time, i forget the site. I went with 2/0 cables to the starter and the block, #4 for the chassis ground, and #4 to the alternator. Its is really amazing the difference they made, the lights are brighter, and the starter runs like a raped ape. I would highly recommend larger cable to anybody.

That little 14 guage chassis ground is a real joke, mine actually broke and i had to splice it, garbage.

2badcams

wish i woulda known of this sooner...will definately keep innovativewiring on my favorite's list!! (for my other projects)

i agree w/ thescaryone, no such thing as over kill....i went with 0ga all around, DRAMATIC differance!!!!!

ellocojorge

iTrader: (1)

well looks like im going to be getting a set of these soon. the quality looks unreal!

arrowcamaro

iTrader: (2)

I see he's now listing '88-'89 firebird cables. I'll probably email him to ensure its for TPI applications. ****!

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Let me know. This is exactly what I need. Ever since I moved from Canada to Texas, I've had low voltage issues. Way too much heat and humidity down here.

arrowcamaro

iTrader: (2)

Already emailed him... Ill pass along the response. I also asked him if he'd be doing headlight harness for the '88-'89 although i doubt he will because i dont think there would be much of a market.

slow305rs

iTrader: (1)

So true. I have the BIG 3 done in ALL 1 ga. No such thing as wire being too big when it comes to power or ground.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

I just ordered the 88-89 Trans Am set from him. Looking forward to this.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

This stuff must be heavy duty....The UPS shipping info says 7 lbs.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Package arrived today.

First off, the box was taped by somebody who could get a job as a decorative mall gift wrapper. All the tape was neatly folded and smooth. Upon getting the box opened up, I saw that all the connections were folded in plastic wrap. The instructions were in a ziplock bag that was zip tied to the cabling (meaning you can't lose it until you go to install it)

The weight of the cables is astonishing. The cabling seems to be triple wrapped on some of the connectors. Everything is easy to twist and maneuver. Some real thought went into this product.

One of my pet peeves with side post batteries is the post itself. Those little tiny screws that go into the battery. Top mounted systems seem to have a better "stump" sticking out of the battery. But somewhat unsightly compared to side posts.......The side post setup on the Innovative Wiring with the large screw and nut that goes into the battery looks like the way to go. Good good.

I haven't installed any of this yet. But I already like what I see.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Cables are installed.

I had a chance to test them out on the way home from work today. Needless to say, I like the results. Turning the key, I get about 0.5 volts more output when cranking the engine over. The starter feels more powerful now. Upon startup, the voltage immediately went to 14.9 volts. I noticed that the analog needle on the dash was way past the center mark (13 volts). I hadn't seen it that far in years.

Driving down the road, it held at 14.7 to 14.8 volts. Eventually settling on 14.5 volts once the engine was warmed up. Actually the car had about 0.2 volts more before I started the car up and left work. The increased voltage due to better charging during my earlier drive to work. My dash lights are brighter. My turn signals click on/off at an increased speed. That was surprising to me. I guess I'd gotten used to them clicking at the old slower speed.

To really put the system under stress, I tried engine at operating temperature. Stopped. Headlights, Fog lights, Rear Defroster, and Air Conditioning on at the same time. Both radiator fans would have been on at this time too. While stopped, it dipped down in the 12's. But once I was moving again, it would settle in the mid 13's..... With just the headlights on, it would settle at 14.2 volts stopped or moving.

There is a certain feel to everything now. More strength. A more rigid feel. Hard to really explain. I guess the closest I could describe it is how a vehicle drives after you pump up your tires to proper psi. I used to get low voltage during long stops even with no accessories running. Now with the headlights on and stopped, there is no tangible difference.

The car is running better now with a 105A alternator than it did with the stock cables and a 140A alternator. My car only has 41,000 miles on it. But these cables made a huge difference.

I'd recommend these cables to anybody.

KYLE87

iTrader: (5)

I haft to use a special sidemount battery screw for my accesories as well. Will the boot covers on these get in the way of that or can you just leave it open?

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

The rubber boots on the terminals want to naturally stay covering the bolts. You can peel them back a bit, but it's a bit tight in that regard.

You could probably get Gary to make you an extra line if you want to hook up an extra accessory.

KYLE87

iTrader: (5)

Delete

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

I'll take some pictures on Monday for you.

87_Injected

I need this as well. Thanks for posting!

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Here is what it looks like when you open the box. I'm REALLY liking the cables.

KYLE87

iTrader: (5)

Im a little late to reply to this, Just realized you posted this. Thanks for posting the video up, These cables appear to be great quality. Mine should be on the way shortly. Great review btw. These cables are gonna rock, lets face it. Love that part.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

EDIT: E-mailed for quote on below setup

About to e-mail him for mine. Please post your specs for your car like this. These are all for my TBI setup, but routing the alternator wire directly behind it, around the rear of the block, across the firewall to the fender, then to the battery. Trying to keep the bay looking clean but without routing inside the firewall.

Battery positive to starter = 37" @ 1/0g
Battery positive lead = 12" @ 8g
Battery positive lead = 12" @ 8g
Battery positive to alternator = 100" @ 1/0g (One-Wire Alternator)
Battery negative to fuel pump block off plate/block = About 32" @ 1/0g
Battery negative to body/fender or strut tower ground = 6" @ 1/0g

2 leads off the positive cable (thinking 8g) on the terminal for future hookups to my fan controller and relays and whatever else I add later that wont need 0g.

I am also going to e-mail him and ask if my plans change if I can send the wires back for some modifications. Like adding leads or shortening the length. Also going to see if he can alloy braid these as well. Wish me luck, still need to do a bit more research on my setup as far as lengths go and I should be able to post some pictures of mine in a few weeks, since I need to wait for back-ordered items from summit which is halting the process of getting this done, besides the research still needed to be done.

Thanks for this guys.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Just run your 1/0 to starter to a junction box on the fenderwell and then another 1/0 to your starter from the junction box. That way you can tap into positive from the junction and run fuses. Much neater.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Please explain more on the junction box, didn't find much in a search. I understand it means taking one positive to a box, then to have all my power wires connected to this boxes terminal. Kind of like a separate battery terminal.

I need power feeds for: MSD Box, Fan controller, Relays for fan controller. Lets just say Ill add another 2 so all together Ill have 5 leads off this junction box, not including the 1/0 to the starter. Please explain this for me, as in how this is a clean setup.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

http://www.jegs.com/i/Caspers%20Elec...0002/-1?CT=999

You will have a remote point to tie into 12v+ and 12v-, and you can add/remove as many wires as you want. A junction box will also keep you further away from the battery, removing the corrosion factor from your wiring, and keeping the rat's nest of wiring near the battery small.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Totally understand now, I already have a negative one on my car right near the battery, just not the positive portion of it. But I wanted to ask because the pictures aren't providing the best angles. If this is sitting in the engine bay (Passenger side firewall corner near about where the blower motor sits, and where I want it). How do I route all these leads including the primary 1/0 to the box, then the 1/0 and 3 leads out (maybe more leads), with this box closed? It just doesn't look like a big enough terminal to hold all these connections on there in the size wire I will be using with the box closed.

New setup. Gary says his terminals can only hold x2 1/0g wires and x1 2g wire. So...

1/0g battery to starter
1/0g battery to alternator
2g battery to junction box
Fan controller (8-10-12g) to junction box
Fan relays (8-10-12g) to junction box
MSD Box (MSD says 12g, Ill use 10g) to junction box

Now Dakota Digital says this for their fan controller. The +12V for the controller should NOT be taken from the same circuit as the Fan Power 12V as this can cause the fan to cycle on and off.
Page 1 http://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/pac-2700.pdf

Does this mean I cant run the controller and relays to the junction box together or does that mean they can't be spliced into the same wire and attached as a single connection. I was thinking on getting some rubber washers between each connector. Let me know.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

I would think running the power and relays to the same source would be fine, but since they warn against it, I'd grab +12v from somewhere else for the relays. It's not like they eat much power anyways.

Don't get an extra lead for the junction box. How often do you really use your starter? Are you using any of these extras when the starter is in use? Just use your 1/0 gauge starter wire.

I'd assume that for wires in and out of the box you'd have to drill holes large enough for the wires to pass in and out. Shouldn't be too bad, C-clamp the box together and drill where you want.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/GM-12191376

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

What do you mean use my starter wire? You mean hook my power feeds for the relays and msd box to the starter terminal directly? I am thinking I could use my windshield washer power wire to power the controller, since I have removed the bottle and the wire is just sitting there, 1 red wire (power) 1 blue wire (ground). I'd assume this is correct (I need to get my battery working to test these wires with a voltmeter so I don't have to keep asking, which I cant until I figure out what wires are needed and how I am routing them for the last time). These car diagrams show nothing for the starter or windshield bottle or cruise control (another candidate), I don't know how anyone can use these diagrams, there is so much missing from them.

So....huhhh, this is getting annoying. Wish I could live chat with you guys rather than IM or post replies, this is so time consuming for something that needs done ASAP.

1/0 battery to starter
1/0 battery to alternator

Relay power 10g to starter terminal
MSD Box 10g power to starter terminal

Windshield washer bottle power wire to fan controller. Then ground blue wire.

No need to go over the negative portion, got that figured out.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

That would work as well, but not give you as easy an access point as a distribution block. I was saying run the 1/0 starter lead on the new cables to the distribution block, and another 1/0 from there to the starter. The starter is only used occasionally compared to the other items you will be tapping power for, and most accessories turn off when the car is in start. Most of the time it won't be drawing any power down the big 1/0, so that gives you a full 1/0 power tap point that's got plenty of thread and isn't the battery (too many wires) or the starter terminal (limited space.)

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Okay okay. Thank you. Sorry if I have been quite the grouch.

1/0 battery to junction box.

1/0 junction box to starter
1/0 starter to alternator (A bit cleaner than running to junction box)
MSD box to junction box (Junction box to left of MSD box in ac box location)
relays to junction box (located on passenger fender right near opening for fender)
fan controller 12v from washer bottle wire from fuse box. Do I ground the other washer bottle wire

1/0 negative to rear of passenger head
1/0 negative from head to firewall

Sound good. Does to me.

Found a good picture of the Casper's junction box, I believe I will be alright fitting huge wires there.

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

...

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Is what I have above okay for wire routing. Battery to junction box, junction box to starter, starter to alternator.

I am about to place the order, have the e-mail saved as a draft, just waiting for the okay so I can send the sizes and lengths to Gary. Hopefully these will be my last positive and negative wires which is why I want to get everything perfect and approved before I place the order. Especially since Gary isn't a company and does this on his free time, so I want the order in ASAP so I can get my car wired ASAP and started .

Just found out that the junction box terminal is way to big to fit Gary's 1/4" - 3/8" eyelet holes that he uses for all his wiring. I will need 1/2" eyelet holes at the junction box for the 1/0 battery to JB and 1/0 JB to starter. I will also need 1/2" for the negative ground to head and head to firewall (1/0 at the firewall will only need a 1/4" eyelet).

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

I believe alternator should always be returned directly to the battery. But other than that, you sound solid.

Edit: And the terminals he uses are beefy, probably have no problem drilling them out a little.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

The order is in. That much closer to starting this car.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

how is the quailty of these cables versus GM acdelco?

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Pictures up top, then more pictures a little bit down, then a video by Reid Fleming. Should be more than enough to see the quality of these parts vs Stock.

Disregard the picture posted by me, which are of different cables not made by Gary.

My wires are scheduled to arrive next Monday.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

they look good but has anyone tested them

how is the fit, form, and function?

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Fabulous quality after install.

• Starter has more power when cranking.
• Reads a consistent 0.5 volts higher at any given time going down the road.
• Brighter headlights
• Faster turn signals
  
  Fixed a rough idle that I couldn't figure out why it was happening. I also had the car just lose complete power a few times prior to install. I'd be going down the road and the car would stumble at say 40 mph. The speed would make the car instantly start up again. But I had the car die on the freeway at 5 mph rush hour. Had to push the car to the side of the road. I knew it was something ground related as I had no power in the cigarette lighter digital volt gauge when that happened.
  
  After install, this all went away. The strange thing is that my old GM cables didn't show any visible signs of corrosion, rust, dirt, etc. When you get old battery cables that are on their way out, sometimes you'll get a bad connection inside the cable itself. It'll build up resistance and overheat.
  
  I love the LARGE stainless steel side post battery bolt/nut. Light years better than the stock side post mount.
  
  Getting the top notch grounding cables/connections will get rid of your odd electrical gremlins like the stalling issue I mentioned above. Things like fuel pumps like to see full voltage as well. Just buy the cables. They're one of the best (and cheapest) things I've done to the car.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

These cables dosent have fuselink in them right ?

Cause the 2 small connectors that goes to fans/innjectors are fuselinked at the stock wiring.

Or isnt that really needed ?

Damn I didnt see this page before, I made my own wires last year, replaced all with larger ones , this cables would have been sweet to install to, just plug n play instead of heat wrapping, heat shrinking etc myself..

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

will the model you got work on my 1983 trans am

Theking

iTrader: (1)

Looks like awesome cables for sure.. I really like what im seeing.
shame I made my own before... Feels like wasting money to order these now when I already changed mine out recently..

hmm..

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

I have no idea if they would fit on an 83 Trans Am.

They don't come with the fusible link. They do have the connector that goes into the fusible link though.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

Wich connecter are you refering to ?
The two smaller wires go to FuelInjectors and the FANs :-)