Parrydise7

iTrader: (1)

Amen, newb!

This thread stopped being a product review a long time ago.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

But it demonstrates how important customer service is. I find the analogy to Ebmiller pretty apt.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Hey:
Send me that Y-pipe and I will make you a new one
No charge. You have had enough grief and have really been cool about it. (The crossover part)
Be sure to mark where there are any problem areas

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Hey Don!

I really do appreciate your offer, and I'll take you up on that!!

I just bought a Canton model 13-082 oil pan. I'd like yours or anyone else's input as to if this will work with the Y pipe or not just to be sure...it's still in the box and I can send it back if needed...

I did see a thread a while ago from another member here that the Canton Road Race pan works with your Y Pipe, but it didn't give the exact model number. But your standard Y you send everyone worked with it.

No matter what pan I use, it has to be for a 2 piece rear seal and stroker clearanced to clear the rear counterweight on my aftermarket crank.

I think I still have your address from before...I'll PM you when I send you my old Y-pipe...you might be able to use something from it...

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

I had a customers car on the rack that had a Canton pan but that wasn't the # and it didn't look like that.
I will see if I can find the # because it cleared with my crossover for sure.

It looked like this.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...F-BODY-RR-PAN/

B4CHawk

Don pretty much always answers his phone and is easy to get in touch with.

I called Ed 4 times last month to get a quote on Wilwood FSLs... no call back. His wife took 3 messages. I gave up and am trying to make the best of my 1LEs.

I don't have the same experience with Don.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I'd love to use that pan....but it doesn't accommodate the crank I'm running. The pan I have is 3/4" deeper, and the sump is 1-1/4" longer front-to-back. It's the closest thing they carry that I thought just might work...

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

9 1/2" won't leave enough room in the front for the crossover.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Well, I can always return the one I have for a Canton 15-244M....and hope my rear counterweight on the crank won't scrape the pan rail near the oil filter....

Or I could get a much cheaper stroker style pan, and notch it somehow to allow the Y to fit...I'm open for any suggestions, or anyone else that's played this game before..

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Got a picture of the pan and k-member ?

You could also run the y-pipe like a fourth gen. I've done that before.

-- Joe

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Here's the pan...brand new, and in the box. Rather not break it open if I'm not using it...makes it easier to return.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...-SBC-DRAG-PAN/

That pan was recommended by Canton, but they don't know what Y-pipe I'm dealing with.

K- member is stock Thirdgen, 82-92.

This is where measurements of what the Y pipe needs for clearance would be helpful....seems a 8-1/4" long sump will fit but 9-1/2" won't?? That pretty much discounts every pan Canton has except for the 15-244 and 15-244M....

-How does a 4th Gen pipe run?

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

The 4th gen has a different rear trans crossmember and the pipe goes down the left side.
Just wondering out loud, I have the same pan I did for you and I have a 2 3/4" crossover going thru there and it fits, wonder why yours doesn't with a 2 1/2" crossover?

That's a 6 qt. pan and I run it one qt. down to keep the oil away from the crank.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

If the 4th gen runs down the left side (drivers)... That's pretty much out of the equation since my older z bar shift linkage is in that area.

That pan I sent you was only a 5 quart pan to begin with. After it was notched, I couldn't even use the whole bottle of oil...the 5.23 quart jugs for oil changes.

I could only put in around 3/4 of it....so it was only taking maybe 4 to 4.25 quarts of oil...that was with the filter already full.

The only thought I have aside from just selling what I have left that's useable...the headers themselves...and taking a big loss, is if you have a pan on hand or if you could recommend a pan that I could buy and send you to be modified to fit....but again, it almost HAS to be a stroker type pan.

OR- I could trade this Canton pan I have for the 15-244 Canton...for like, 100 bucks more and see if your regular Y-Pipe fits. If not, I just can't see notching a 380 dollar oil pan.

- And I thought the size of the Y you make is/was 2-3/4" diameter?

BTW , again, I'm glad you're offering to help with this....this is just frustrating beyond belief...

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I've done 4th gen style routing on a thirdgen and it works, but I've never dealt with a car that had a Zbar. (that wasn't a first or second gen lol).

I'm running a Summit 5 quart pan with my 400 block, which I just measured as 8 1/2". From the pan to the kmember is 3".


-- Joe

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

The engine is not in the car at the moment...these are times I wish I had one of those nifty plastic engines to fit everything up.

I believe the only reason the TES Y pipe fit is because it's a smaller diameter pipe, and the pipe on each side that bolts up to their headers was just long enough to bolt up.

I'm not saying it fit well...the pipe literally laid up against the bottom of the oil pan - which it didn't do when I used the factory pan on the 305. But the oil pan didn't need to be notched or anything.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Funny... Looking at oil pans at Summit's web site, and they list the Canton 15-244M and 15-244 as stroker clearanced.

I called Canton a while back, and the guy said that model oil pan wasn't stroker clearanced...go figure. He recommended the one I have..the 13-038...

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

The only thing that makes a stroker pan is the little notch at the left rear corner to clear the counterweight.
You can do that to any pan.

Are you sure you have the right dipstick, I know mine reads one qt. down and I put 5 qts. in it.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

You are correct Don. If you have a pan that isn't notched already for the rear counterweight to clear, you need to hammer one in yourself.

But- you have a 50/50 change that you'll now leak oil in that area since you have to notch it there. I did that to the pan I had on it before the one you saw, and it leaked since the rail was slightly distorted in an attempt to notch it for the clearance. Been there, done that, so now I only deal with pans for a stroker crank so I don't need to concern myself with it.

The dipstick tube goes in the block, so the oil level doesn't change with different pans in relation to the crankshaft. I could only run maybe 3-1/2 quarts in the pan, plus 1/2 quart in the filter with that last pan after it was cut and re-welded to clear the y pipe... Which unfortunately it didn't quite do.

So now I'm going "all in" and I now have a Canton 15-244 oil pan on the way to my house designed to fit the car. I'm returning the Canton 13-083 since you said in the post above that the sump is too long at 9-1/2"...

So now the question is, do you think the Y-pipe you make will fit around that pan?? The measurements for the 244 are on Canton's web site.... Or can you fabricate one that will??

I can send you the last pipe back that was modded but still I'll-fitting I used with the last oil pan if you want it.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

BTW Don -

I'll just PM you, or just PM me if you don't mind....I don't want to clutter up this thread needlessly.

TxTtopZ

Even after an entire thread of a couple complaints, Im still willing to spend the money on a DD's exhaust. It was mentioned that the overseas pieces were superior in another post. You gotta be kidding me! That's only HALF the battle. I would much rather support a manufacturer who cares about my car than to send my money overseas to support some Asian's Hellaflush "Classic" Toyota Camry project. I'm sure they aren't asking me for parts for that thing so why would I ask them? They don't know a damn thing about what I am looking for. Or about my car for that matter. Customer support there would also be a challenge to say the least, as my words are limited to a few "Menu items". Now you got the man online replying, trying to salvage what he can out of a small business that caters specifically to your car and is no less a long time member.

As for the headers not "fitting a particular oil pan from X" - That should be a given that may happen. I wouldn't have even brought it up and let alone put it in a thread. I hope Don is charging you for a custom fit piece. If your expecting it for free, your out of your mind!

Handle the BS Don.. Your still getting my business at this point. Just some words of encouragement.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Sure you would of. You have no idea of the history in this, and we are both long time members.

Don is working with me, and that was why I decided to not clutter up the thread with it. It's really none of your business whether Don is, or is not charging me anything.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Well I'm not racist, and realize it's a global economy.

-- Joe

TxTtopZ

Your right, I dont know all the ins and outs of your situation but I do know its a 1 off custom deal from what you described and so I still hold my opinion. The very fact you made it public by being on this forum makes it open to comment.

As for the global economy, it is made up of national economies which is what we live in. It's strength in the global market dictates the quality of our lives. If what your misinterpreting here were true, everyone would be living to the same standard and that's clearly not happening. Without giving a long lecture... it's better to support your local region, which is why politicians are always promising to create jobs. Racism has nothing to do with it.

ringo234

You do know that there is supposed to be a space between sentences right?

ringo234

Try returning headers to Hong Kong and you'll see those $300 headers just jumped to $400 and another 4 week wait at least.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Just don't buy them, they don't work on cars in California anyway.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I don't care. I buy whatever is the best value. If American workers can't keep up, tough.

I have to do better to compete in my industry. No free hand outs. I sure as hell am not going to pay twice as much for less quality just because it was made by a white guy in the states.

-- Joe

TxTtopZ

Why don't you start a thread with these headers you speak of and let us take a look?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Already well documented. And I was just bringing that up earlier as a comparison.

I don't really care what headers anyone buys. I'm just curious how these play out.

If Don made a couple of design changes, and started using stainless instead of mild steel he could probably sell a lot more sets.

-- Joe

84 Kamp311

Will these fit angle plug heads?

rick90gta

iTrader: (3)

Just want to add my 2 cents here... i installed a set of don's non-smog headers and single 3" y pipe on my gta. these things fit awesome and i have installed a lot of headers that cost more than twice the money that don't fit this good. real nice piece, and Don was great to work with too

TMFK

Just wanted to say, I got my Dyno Dons headers today. They look awesome (as you all know) and he was great to deal with. Got them 2 weeks after I ordered them and they shipped from CA to SC. Would recommend to anyone.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

That's good to hear. I'm glad they fit well. Hows the car sound with them on?

-- Joe

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Let me add that I have had my Dyno Don headers for a few years now and they still look good and going strong. No problems.

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

What headers cost twice the price of these???With the y pipe its around $700 or so. I have owned all the headers made for thirdgens and remember Edelbrocks being $315 brand new with a y pipe. Plenty of other options out there. In most states these cars are emmisions exempt. So sans the smog tubes. Hooker super comps, stainless works, headman. Take your pick.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I'm guessing he meant some exotic stainless headers for a different car. I've seen 2" stainless BBC headers for around a grand or so.

The hedman's are a great choice for thirdgen though, I've run a few sets well into 119-120mph at the track. If I was doing another non-turbo thirdgen I'd probably go with the chinese stainless 1 3/4" long tubes however. Ceramic coating sucks.

-- Joe

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Probably hes talking a Lemons type header. I know for a fact that when I talked to stainless works about there long tubes I mentioned the chinese version of that very same product. They were downplaying the quality and welds. I know the chinese version was 299 or 399. SW are 899. They look identical in the pictures. Tough to tell. I know fit wise thw SW are like a glove on the chassis.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I bought some chinese stainless headers. 3 different sets for different applications.

1) A set of "BBS" knock off turbo headers
2) Another set of twin turbo headers
3) Some gbody shorty headers (that happen to fit a thirdgen. go figure).

The Knock off BBS headers were better quality than the original BBS headers (which look like they were welded with a car battery and a coat hanger).

They all were better than any welds I've ever seen from a hedman or hooker header. All tig welded, beautifully. Might even be robotic welding. Either way, a million times better than I am capable of and better than the bubblegum welds in the first post of this thread.

1/2" thick flanges. Heavy gauge tube. That actually might be the only negative. The tube is so thick the inside diameter is smaller than what you'd get when buying mild steel headers.



-- Joe

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Wow, really. Im curious ahout how those copycat SW headers look. Its not like a $100 diff, They are more than half the cost.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Couple of threads on them. sometimes they are out of stock for months at a time.

I don't know why anyone would spend more than $200 for mild steel headers, coated or not, when you can get stainless headers for a little bit more.

-- Joe

TMFK

Haven't installed them yet. Gonna do heads, cam swap soon. I'll report back.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Oh .. Wait. You have not installed them? You should probably wait and give a review once they are installed.

-- Joe

chad87sc

Don I am very much interested in a set of 1 3/4 headers. It seems like you have the only ones?

rick90gta

iTrader: (3)

I'm not constraining that comment to just third gens... a set of doug's coated headers for a first gen i installed not long ago were 700 dollars. the ceramic coating is already peeling underneath, and the 3-bolt flanges won't stay sealed. the sw headers are like 1200 with y-pipe from hawks, and while nice, i had problems with fitment with a t56, although they would have cleared a factory trans just fine. i installed a set of stainless headers on a c5 vette once that were even more expensive, and had a hell of a time with them. i've owned edelbrock tes header kits, twice, and they rusted horribly. granted, i do live in the rust belt! hedman and flowtech headers use super skinny flanges in a lot of cases and i steer clear of them, i hate exhaust leaks

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

How are these any better? SW is a work of art. They say specifically not for manual trans so there is your answer there. There 304 stainless and the fit the k member perfectly. Dons are 409, coated. Y pipe isnt. I had fitment issues. I have said a million times here. I dont care if something is off. As long as the manufacture makes it right. He didnt. He replied sparingly to my emails. And when he did it was one sentence replies. I had tes headers as well. They fit. He didnt ever make it right and I guess thats the type of person he is so be it. He says he gives back to the thirdgen community. I take that as donations or something to the board. Not making a side job out of headers and saying there helping out. Problem he is on the west coast and Im all they way on the east. If it was paypal I would have done a charge back. But he takes MO only, go figure. No paper trail for moneys recieved. Bruce Hawkins stepped in and helped me get a set asap when these didnt work. If anyone gives back its him and his company. Many have come and gone and Hawks is still around. Who do you think worked with SW to get these made? Bruce did. I know the story. SW wouldnt even have made a set if he hadnt asked them. Better quality and a brick and motor buisness paying taxes. Not some guy making headers by doing buisness under the table from uncle sam. In my case how was it a"cheaper" option? I had to buy two sets to get one. The few that has had issues spoke up , and every single one was ignored. No company is 100% perfect on production of products,So do the math. We the few slipped through the cracks and it was swepped under the rug.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Couple years after the install. Rust started to show up over a year ago. The Headers are the only thing on the car - other than some hardware - that's showing any rust since the restoration. Car is garage kept everyday and gets maybe 2500 miles of sunny afternoon driving a year,.... I took these pics yesterday afternoon.






'All told' I paid almost a grand for this system - exactly so that I wouldn't have rusty headers a couple years after the restoration. I've restored plain steel headers with off the shelf spray bomb paint that have lasted as long. a couple sections of Y-pipe started to flash rust before It was even unpackaged, so it was blasted and painted before it was installed. While I expected the Y-Pipes to rust over again - The fact that these headers are already rusting away..............

Wonder if the Y-Pipe was made this way on purpose ???




Edit: That section of of Y-Pipe held up better agaist rust than the headers did.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I bet your next set will be stainless

-- Joe

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Idk who he uses for coating but its **** poor to be honest. For example when I bought my Edelbrock Tes units I sent them to HPC,for those who remember then they where competitive with Jet hot in maybe 1998. I used them on the car for years. Sold them to my friend. He used them for about 5 years. Then they were sold again to my buddys father to put on his 87. They look faded but not rusty like johns. Also got another friend that bought a set jet hot coated a year after me to this day still look good to this day as he just put them on a new motor. Maybe he sprays them himself, they sell the stuff to do it.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

John...you have a PM

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I must have got a set that has the hoc coating on them.they are really dull almost like someone sprayed a cleaner on them while they were hot. I blighted them with elbow grease and mother polish. I have some cerama coat cleaner for stove tops I need to try they still don't have the luster they should. Rust is coming through. I haven't seem mentioned if these are mild steel or a lower grade 409 stainless.