punkmaster98

iTrader: (5)

When I bought my 92 Firebird the PO had put in a hotwired fan switch due to the stock switch in the passenger head failing. I dont have the time to try change the stock and have trouble getting to it so I purchased this kit from autozone. 17.99 plus 3.99 for a 30a fuse holder. All of my stock wiring was still intact so installation was simple. tap a 12v ignition source to the fuse and fuse to the "C" terminal on the controller and "A-b" terminal to the fan. The controller has a capillary tube to stick into the radiator. Its fully adjustable from 150-240 so I set mine at 200. It works flawlessly and is well worth the price.

Juan_Garza

iTrader: (1)

wow im gonna get that!! Tired of leaving my manual fan switch on and draining the battery, thanx for the info.

Ron U.S.M.C.

I have two fan controllers just like that one. Both are on there own circuit with their own relay. One controlling a main puller fan at 190* on and the other is a pusher fan that comes on 200*. They work great.

EDIT = I have been told that your switch is different than mine. I did not realize it until now .They both do the same job but it seems that the diagram on yours shows a different way to wire it in. I was not aware there was a difference. The following diagrams "I “posted are intended to show the way I wired in my Hayden brand switch # 733653 adding a relay. Sorry about the confusion. =

punkmaster98

iTrader: (5)

I think the directions are alright but it could have came with some better wire.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

Sorry Ron, I tend to agree with you most of the time, But that looks bass ackwards to me. The temp switch should trigger the relay,(I had mine close circuit to ground) not have power to it all the time when ignition is on. That diagram essentially turns the temp switch into another relay.
The way I did mine was fused hot to relay, ignition hot to one pole of relay trigger,temp switch to ground and the other pole.

Ron U.S.M.C.

It’s just a straight shot from the main power source (junction block) to the fan than from the fan to ground creating a complete circuit. The only thing is that an adjustable thermostat (switch), a relay and fuse are in line. Turn the key to"on", allowing the circuit to be energized using a relay and the thermostat decides when to let the current flow. I have only been installing relays for a short while now but as far as I understand that is proper and how a relay works.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

This is my take on it. Yes, I'm lazy and just moved some things around in paint.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

The benefit of the way I do this is the relay can be mounted right next to the battery and have only16" or so of wire between it and the fan. Distance = resistance in wiring. Less amps going through the temp switch too.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Agree with Joe. I purchased an adjustable controller last Summer and was not happy with the guage of wiring it used compared to our stock relay/fan wiring. Although Hayden claimed it could be used as a 'fan relay', I wired it in so that it would trigger a stock relay. This way the fan power was not passing through the aftermarket controller, only the signal voltage.

Ron U.S.M.C.

As long as you’re not using the ignition wire/source to directly power the fan your OK. Its only purpose is to energize the relay causing a switch to close that lets the main power source (battery junction block) be energized and ready to run the fan.

When the whole system is energized (key in "on" position) the thermostatically controlled switch decides when to let that currant flow.

I see now that there are different ways to do it but this is how I was taught so that's what I used.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

My whole point is the relay can be eliminated from your diagram and it will work just as well. Other than the fact it would run after the key is off until the radiator drops below the temperature it is set for.

punkmaster98

iTrader: (5)

yeh its only run an extra 30 secs once i shut the car off

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

No, not saying it doesn't need one. I'm saying the the temp sensor should cycle the relay, the relay should cycle the current to the fan. The whole purpose of a relay is to have a high amp "switch" instead of having all that amperage going through an ignition circuit or the temp sensor. The way Rons diagram is set up, the temp sensor still carries all the current to the fan.

Ron U.S.M.C.

.
I see said the blind man .I’m still kind of new working with this type of switch.

What I created is the correct one for a standard relay controlled circuit but the Thermo. switch changes that.

This is the original diagram that came with the unit.If I’m reading this correctly they are saying that you can directly attach to the ignition sorce."Wrong".But they also say ignition switched source= Relay. This is where I got the idea to wire mine as shown in the bottom diagram.The main hot wire goes directly through the thermo. switch. Thus the 20 amp fuse in line. I see know that there is a better way .

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

[quote=Ron U.S.M.C.;5624873].
I see said the blind man .I’m still kind of new working with this type of switch.

What I created is the correct one for a standard relay controlled circuit but the Thermo. switch changes that.

This is the original diagram that came with the unit.If I’m reading this correctly they are saying that you can directly attach to the ignition sorce."Wrong".But they also say ignition switched source= Relay. This is where I got the idea to wire mine as shown in the bottom diagram.The main hot wire goes directly through the thermo. switch. I see know that there is a better way .

I'm working this out in PM with the op right now. Apparently that unit is a relay in itself and grounds through the bracket? I was thinking it worked like a temp sensor
In that case your setup will work, it just uses 2 relays instaed of one. You are just keeping it from running after the key is off that way which is fine. Probably preferable.
I made my own setup from a stock relay and stock temp sensor in the intake bung before the thermostat. I wired the supply to relay from a fused battery connection. Ignition hot to the other hot for relay trigger, and grounded through the temp sensor.

Ron U.S.M.C.

( Apparently that unit is a relay in itself and grounds through the bracket? I was thinking it worked like a temp sensor)

I see the probe wire also coming from his switch so it looks like it does both.

Nice job on the diagram. Im still learning to use "paint" so I have not learned how to do a few thing like moving things around, etc.
I like the way you wired yours. Less amps through the switch would be preferable I would think.

Also I put a 1 amp fuse between the ignition source and the relay. That's OK right

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

Lol I tried my best not to do it, but a picture is better than a thousand words for sure.

Ron U.S.M.C.

I love pictures/photos for that reason exactly. Also I save diagrams in a folder in on my computer for future reference.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

An ignition source should already be fused. So that is just doubling up again. The thing about the probe on the radiator is it isn't truly going by engine temp. I would really even prefer mine in the bung on the head. But I have never seen it past 210* even on the hottest day.

Ron U.S.M.C.

I have been taping into open ignition hot "on" slots in the fuse box so it’s a completely separate circuit from the stock wiring. That's why I have the in line1amp fuse between the power source and the relay. I actually have both fans on their own separate circuts. If one blows a fuse the other takes up the slack. Like a dummy I tried to run both fans on one circuit and blew a fuse. I did not know it until I looked at the pegged out gage. Pulled over and carful opened the hood to see the reservoir boiling.That should not happen again. The car stays around 190* with a 180* thermostat.

With the thermo. switch turned all the way down I warmed the car to the temp I want the fan to come on at. When it reaches the exact spot on the gage (190*)Then I slowly turn the switch adjusting post up until it kicks on. 190* gage, 190*fan.

My gage has been tested. Its right on.

willexoIX

I have this as well, However I kept all stock wiring the same. The fan relay on my car is a ground triggered relay. All I did was tie ground into the new fan switch, then continue that ground to the relay. Temp probe hits pre-adjusted limit, completes the ground circuit to the relay, switches fan relay and the fan on. NO HOT WIRES INVOLVED.

Ron U.S.M.C.

One of the easiest ways I have seen to wire one of these in is to simply take off the wire that goes to the switch in the head and ground it to the car. Than just cut that same wire (let’s say in the middle) and install the thermostat controlled switch in-between those same cut wires. Run the probe to the radiator, set the dial to where you want it and you’re done. Any one that has a switch in the head can use this method and have an adjustable fan.