UltRoadWarrior9

I put on this mini-starter on my 1986 OEM305TPI IROC today.
Had to lower both exhaust flanges at the manifolds to get the original starter out. What a nasty piece of old technology! It sounds horrible too, in addition to looking bad and being a pain to remove/install.
But this new starter was a direct fit. Shims provided were not needed. I did have to re-index the starter so it was positioned closest to the block in order to clear the OEM exhaust. This would be the most ideal position as it is furthest from the hot exhaust especially from headers, which I plan to install OBX longtubes next!

This new starter is much smaller, bolted right in and sounds much better too when cranking.

Quote from the add:

• • 100% NEW, OE QUALITY, FIT AND PERFORMANCE
  • BEAUTIFUL CHROME FINISH
  • HEAVY DUTY 2.0kW, 2.7HP*, OSGR, 12 VOLT, CW, 9-TOOTH PINION
  • 3.75:1 GEAR REDUCTION RATIO, 180 FT LBS TORQUE
  • IDEAL FOR HIGH COMPRESSION ENGINES UP TO 18:1 COMPRESSION
  • SOLID BILLET ALUMINUM MOUNTING BLOCK
  • ROTATE MOTOR POSITION FOR ADDITIONAL CLEARANCE
  • FULL BALL BEARING DESIGN
  • COMPACT DESIGN FOR MORE CLEARANCE BETWEEN OIL PAN & HEADERS
  • LARGER FIELD WINDINGS, STRONGER ARMATURE, BIGGER BRUSHES AND 1 INCH LONGER THAT THE S1935N
  • MOUNTING BOLTS, SHIMS & HARDWARE INCLUDED
  • WEIGHTS JUST 12 POUNDS
  • 1-YEAR WARRANTY

*Many sellers on Ebay classify the 2.0kW Chevy mini starter as 3.0HP but in fact 2.0kW equals 2.7HP.


Do a search on ebay for "NEW HEAVY-DUTY* HIGH TORQUE CHROME MINI STARTER CHEVY SBC BBC 153/168 TOOTH".

Seller is racecarps.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

Looks like there's a non-chrome version, too.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HEAVY-DU...tVhY5G&vxp=mtr

Hope it's a good one for you.

I know some folks with other models of mini-starter have had to trim and modify the mounting pad for clearance to the engine. No mods needed with this one then, eh? That's promising.

UltRoadWarrior9

Interesting, the pic on ebay shows the mounting bolts going in the wrong direction. The corner of the mounting block of the starter is notched to clear the lip of OEM oil pan, so the notched surface goes towards the block...

I forgot, there was one mod. You have to cut and splice a new female spade connector where the eyelet was for the ignition.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

Just dropped in for the photo I guess? By a photographer that did not know any better? Or simply meant to show you that it comes with new mounting bolts?

I think that's the modification I had read about people needing to do. Nice that it's already been done for you here, especially from a warranty point of view.


I see the terminal you are talking about...not too bad of a job. Glad you mentioned it.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

One of the things I did, which its totally up to you but, I shorted the power and trigger leads together, and rain my power cable to a Ford solenoid which I mounted on the firewall next to the wiper motor. (along with the trigger wire, and the wires that need battery power). I like having the remote solenoid in the engine bay so I can start the car from under the hood, plus I only have to worry about 1 wire/cable down by the headers instead of 4-5.

-- Joe

weswisehart

You think this will hold up to the heat from the exhaust manifold? My car after a hours drive in texas summer heat wont crank. i have to always let it cool.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

As a smaller starter, it should sit farther away from the exhaust, and thus suffer less heat-soak than the larger O.E. unit. So it should do better.

weswisehart

That is what I assumed but wasn't sure. I may have to buy one then. Thanks for replying

UltRoadWarrior9

I agree, the starter motor and solenoid are hugging the block about 2" away from the stock exhaust IIR. I was very impressed with the size comparison and ability.
There's nothing good about a stock starter IMO.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

It's included in the price of the car?