Slow Iroc

If so, tell us about it. I would love to hear if anyone has found a combination of parts that works with the SLP runners. I'm really not looking forward to blowing $1300 just for an intake.

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86 IROC-Z, Retired for winter, weird oil leak (drains out in about 3 minutes), new 355 other than that, TPI, 700R4, edelbrock headers, removed AC/Air pump, heater plate conversion - no heater (loL). 14.8@90MPH

Next project (think I'm going to scrap the IROC)- mid 80's monte carlo, 383, edelbrock performer RPM intake, cam, holley double pumper carb, sportsman 2 heads, NOS. Hoping mid/high 12's on motor, mid 11's on spray.

The ODB

My 86 TPI 305 ran 11.8's @115 back in 1996. I had AS&M runners though they were of little help, and an Acell baseplate.

Something is wrong with your tuning by the performance numbers you have. What size injectors do you have and have you done a compression check on all your cylinders yet?

will try to help you out.
and NO don't waste $1300 on an intake. If you're going to switch to anything else for the sake of performance then go to a carburetor. Just my .02 on that.


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*I do custom performance mods on Edlebrock Performer carburetors (dualplane intake mods in the works),
White 1986 Irocz, 305/383 with Edlebrock Performer-RPM intake and Performer #1407 carburetor, +110hp shot of crack, 700R-4 tranny, 3.25:1 rear, Mcreary Road-Stars, SLP-stainless 1.75" shortie headers & Y-pipe, single 3" Borla exhaust, Linginfelter-TPI camshaft part number 74216 pulls 17" vacuum solid. Cam specs 213/219 @.050 114-LSA, .462/.470 lift @1.5:1 ratio. MSD-6AL, billet distributor, multi-retard, blaster-3 coil, and RPM switch.
N/A runs 10.9 @124,
Crack-runs 10.3 @135
haven't run at track since Oct-99

Slow Iroc

My timing was off, but the compression came between 10:3:1 and 10:5:1 on all cylanders. The motor only has a couple thousands miles on it. Either way, tell us about your combination of parts on the 305 to get it into the 11's! Gears, etc.

valu8or

Hey OBD, I have been searching for someone to tune my carb and cannot find anyone nead Detroit. Maybe I can drive out in the spring and pay you some cash to tune the carb so I can go fast!!!! Just a thought.

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1986 IROC
New Crate 350 w/Vortec Heads, Edelbrock 2116 Vortec Manifold, Edelbrock Performer 2102 Cam, Edelbrock 1406 carb, Hedman shorty headers, Flowmaster Catback, Rebuilt 700r4 w/vette servo, etc..

The ODB

No problem valu8r, as long as it is an edlebrock carb. I don't do holleys because I'm prejudice.

The ODB

slow iroc,
were did you find a guage that reads in compression ratios?
mine all read in psi of pressure.

Did you build this 355 or is the internals a guessing game, or word of mouth from somebody else?

Slow Iroc

My compression tester is from RML Electronic Instrument Systems. From what I understand, it takes PIS measurements and converts them to APPROXIMATE compression ratio's. The 355 is basicly a stock rebuilt (4 bolt)L98, but uses flat top pistons, hydro. cam (not roller) and bad factory heads

The ODB

well there is no way a gauge will tell you static compression ratio.. but that's beside the point.

Do you know the deck height of your piston-to-block? or what the current chamber size is on your iron heads?

The ODB

I would definately go to the trouble of switching to the hydraulic roller cam that I run. Also go with a good set of street aluminum heads. I would also get a really good non-computer distributor.
If you need more than that, then try some Harland Sharp 1.65:1 roller rockers which will require a slightly different length set of pushrods. Only use hardened pushrods.

88IROCs

ODB,

I remeber a while back "Nascar Garage" did a segment on the compression ratio tester used by NASCAR. With zero-gap rings you should be able to measure the amount of air to fill the cylinder at TDC and BDC to determine the static ratio('course this assumes you are running very tight piston to wall clearances - i.e., not your average street motor).

Mind ya, the rig they showed would probably be out of reach($$$) for the average mechanic.

HiTech5

iTrader: (4)

The OBD - I'm having a hard time believing that you ran 11.8@115 with a 305 TPI. In my opinion it would be difficult even with nitrous.

The ODB

I did it back in 1996 and it was actually very easy.
The 305 is going back in the car again soon while I work on the 383. I will let you know how fast it is as soon as I can run it.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

HiTech5. It can be done there is a guy online running 10's with his 305 TPI.

Thats amazing. **** im running 10's on motor with my 383 and 9's on lots of NOS.

Ill find the link to his site. and edit and post it here for the non belivers

------------------
Chris
1992 25th Anniv Z28 W/383 Stroker
536 RWHP 569 FT LBS Lots more on NOS
(chassis dynoed at Ramsies Perf.) www.go.to/TPI383


[This message has been edited by TPl383 (edited February 06, 2001).]

Slow Iroc

I'm pretty sure I know who you are talking about. Has forth gen tips on his tailpipes, white like 88 iroc, something around that year. Blower, rebuild, yada yada.

Either way, here is my question...
SLP RUNNERS ON A 10 SECOND CAR....HOW!?!?!?

I'm not being a smart *** , I always here people loosing a couple tenths with the SLP runners, so how did you gain time and get them to work effectively??? I know the extra bit of stroke has a lot to do with the power level, but if I could get in the 12's I would be estatic...so tell us, what do we need to do to get the cheapest set of runners out there performing like champs??? What base did you use, any work done to the runner and base, where are those peak power numbers occuring (what RPM), do you have a lot of breathing run or do you start running out of breath above 5400RPM. So many questions, I am all ears as too how to get those runners Working well. They seem like the closest thing to a super ram, for $400 less, and look closer to stock. (Which makes maintance alone easier, let alone installation.) Please fill me in, if I can get into the 12's this summer with heads (sportsman 2's? or used aluminum L98's if I can find them), intake, cam, and a set of 3.73's I'm gunna do it! Help us out man!

GMI FAST

YOU CAN GO FAST WITH RUNNERS!! You may have seen a burgundy GTA grace the pages of one of the first issues of GMHTP when it was just HTP. His name is Jerry Hogan, and is a member of my car club. His 355", DFI, T-trim, NOS GTA has run 9.70's with a ported 305 TPI intake! To make matters worse, he still uses 1 5/8" Edelbrock shorties! Take that, non-believers. BRING IT, BIOTCHES!!!

------------------
Old: 1989 Formula, 383", DFI, built 700R4, TFS heads, Mini-Ram, Vortech S-trim 15 psi, 3.70 gears
Best ET: 10.796 @ 125.8 mph

New: 1989 T/A, 400" CNC Bow-Tie Tall-Deck, Accel Pro-Ram, DFI, AFR heads, HRC T76 Turbo, NOS 150-hp dry kit, TH400 w/GV overdrive, 12-bolt w/3.70 gears, 8-pt. S&W rollbar, Spohn suspension, 18" wheels, Baer brakes
Best ET: Spring 2001

Employed at:
Hahn Racecraft
Accel EMIC/DFI Tuning
Turbosystems & Custom EFI

Member of Midwest F-Body Association www.mfba.org

Slow Iroc

I don't think two power adders count, lol, but thanks. Your ram compressed air into a engnie, it will "Breath" better because it's forced to, then you add HO2 and extra fuel INTO the compressed air! That's a whole lot of Fuel and Oxygen that you are combusting.

TRAXION

I went 12.5's @ 107.9mph naturally aspirated on the stock 350 bottom end with AS&M SSLTRs and a TPIS Big Mouth base before I switched to the MiniRam. The car still had much more left in it. This setup would have EASILY gone low 12's with a better PROM and skinnies. A wonderful setup with a ****L0ad of torque and enough upper RPM horsepower to keep the mustangs at bay. I switched to the MR because I like the 1 piece design (MUCH easier to work on) and I am looking for REALLY good 1/4 ETs (11's).

Tim

------------------

• Program your own PROMs!. Read my article to get started!
• Research and Experiment before asking questions.
• This is not a chip store. Go to the classifieds if you want someone to sell you a chip or give you a BIN.

TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

Slow Iroc

What heads and cam were you using to get yourself down to the mid 12's? Aren't AS&M runners like $450 or $500? About what RPM were you running out of breath at....and do you still have the runners and base that you may want to sell????

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Slow Iroc.

The runners were work alot by JIM FORMATO. ported welded ported and extrudhoned. same with tpis big mouth base. Ill be the 1st to admit could have just got a MR and left it at that. But i paid Nill nothing for work since he was a friend.Peak Hp is around 6200 and TRQ is around 4300-4500

My heads are AFR 210CC ported and extrudhoned


Ya I seen that GTA befor. GMI FAST. Its nice. I wish Everyone could see it then they would know anything can be done with the right about of $$ or connections.

Thouse of you who dont know JIM FORMATO he burns chips. and other things. Was a great man. Passed away 1yr ago yesterday I belive.
his wife and son still do mods and chips from http://www.fasterproms.com/

anymore questions post or e-mail me cuz I dont get to read the boards all the time.

TRAXION

I believe SlowIroc was talking to me....

I was running 'out-of-the-box' AFR190 street heads with 60cc chambers and titanium retainers. The camshaft was a CC Xtreme 218/224 ground on a 112LSA. The same heads/cam package that is listed on the website in my sig.

AS&M SSLTRs (Semi-Siamesed Large Tube Runners) run $450. It would cost you $450 to create an equally flowing set of SLP runners. In all honesty - I would rather buy SLP units, modify them, and send them off to be extrude honed. They would flow equally well but 'look prettier' on the outside. The AS&M's aren't the prettiest SSLTRs but they are the highest flowing 'out-of-the-box' LTR setup on the market.

I don't know. I shifted the SSLTR setup at the same RPMs that I shift my MiniRam setup. The SSLTR setup is a very well breathing setup that has lots of torque and good upper RPM horsepower. I am just not a huge 'big torque' fan because it is impossible to plant that much torque on the street. Furthermore, I can easily create that 'torque feel' by using a higher stall converter and/or more gear. No biggy. I like to be able to 'pull' on other people. I like to 'walk away' from other people. The MiniRam is a much better 'walker'.

Sold them a long time ago.

Tim

------------------

• Program your own PROMs!. Read my article to get started!
• Research and Experiment before asking questions.
• This is not a chip store. Go to the classifieds if you want someone to sell you a chip or give you a BIN.

TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

BlueIrocZ

Hey Traxion, who do you send your
tpi stuff to to get extrudehoned and how much does it cost? Thanks

BlueIrocZ

Just wanted to see this topic on fire!!

TRAXION

I never said that I had parts of my TPI extrude honed. I *was* running a box-stock TPIS Big Mouth and the AS&M SSLTRs. I never had anything extrude honed. I was just saying that if I were going to go the SSLTR route then I would probably buy the SLPs and port them myself. Then I would send them off to be extruded. The SLPs look much better on the outside as compared to the AS&M units because the AS&M units have the big weld marks. But, if you are terrible at doing your own porting then just buy the AS&M units ... they seriously outflow the SLP units directly out of the box.

Tim

------------------

• Program your own PROMs!. Read my article to get started!
• Research and Experiment before asking questions.
• This is not a chip store. Go to the classifieds if you want someone to sell you a chip or give you a BIN.

TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

BadSS

The IROC I finished up for the wife is pretty quick. I'm sure with a better suspension (vs stock and worn), better exhaust system (vs 2.25 Y pipe and 2.5" Dynomax), and custom chip calibration,, the car would be a good bit quicker. I put a lot of work into the stock base,, and not sure how it would compare to an aftermarket unit. I gutted the plenum, and did minor work on the SLP runners and heads. Nothing real fancy or costly since I could do the work myself. You might not get the exact results doing your own porting(yours could be better), but proof that you don't need a lot of money wrapped up in the intake system and exhaust to run 12's,,, if you have a decent set of heads.

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86 IROC - 9.8:1 - 355, TFS twisted wedge heads, 218/228-110, fully ported GM base and plenum, SLP runners, 52mm BBK, 24# SVO, 88 350 GM EPROM, 1 5/8" Headman headers, 2.5" Dynomax, TH350, 2200 stall, B&M Megashifter, 3.23 peg leg, 245/45ZR17 on 212 Eagles - Best run - 12.53/112.4 on 26x11.5 ET Streets.