nelapse

iTrader: (17)

Well I spent an hour writing this thread and accidently hit back and now I have to do it over again... yippee.. I hope you guys care

This project is not for everyone, there is alot of work involved, not alot of skill but you will need alot of time. I do not recommend this for a daily driver but you could, plus it makes it easier for clean up when i spill my mcflurry
There are 3 main reasons I did this
1. Stop corrosion, putting this liner on stops the "electrolyte" leg of the corrosion triangle, which is by the way the only factor man can control of the corrosion process.
2. weight reduction- one gallon weights a fraction of oem carpet and sound deadening material
3. Possible sound deadening. I havent proved this theory as of yet will let you know how this goes when i get my motor in tomorrow.

These are the materials you will need:
1. Bedliner (herculiner or duplicolor bedliner... I used the duplicolor since it was much cheaper)
2. A metal pale, or metal paint pan (do not use plastic, the liner eats through it in seconds...
3. 4" wide soft bristle paint brush (a roller would not help in the slightest for this application)
4. Assortment of chisels and scrapers for the sealants and adhesives...
5. Sand paper - I used 80 grit you can sue finer but 80 grit worked best for the uneven surfaces of this terrain...
6. alcohol or acetone -used for final prep work and stripping
7. Respirator Do not even think about not using this! This chemical is very harsh!

How to do it!
1. You need to remove everything in your interior that has anything to do with the floor...
First I would take out the drivers and passengers seat. These are held on by 4 nuts a piece. Socket size is 13mm
2. Next is the middle console... these is held up anywhere between 4-6 bolts sizes for sockets are 10mm and 12mm
3. Backseats need to be removed, each cushion is help on by one bolt I think the size is a 15mm. This bolt is located front lower middle.
4. Backseat leaning pad if i remember correctly this is held on by two bolts and the size does not come to mind. I removed this a long time ago.
5. You need to remove the passenger and drivers door sills. Phillips #2
6. You will have to remove the driver and passenger panels in the rear that are under the rear speakers... Phillips #2
7. You will need to remove the driver and passengers kick panels... Phillips #2
8. Now you have to remove the seat belts, I do not remember the torx bits for this since I use hex bolts now. When you remove them make sure you roll up some card board and stick them in the holes so you do not get any rubber in the threading.
9. remove the carpet and sound deadening material.

You should be at this point

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004531.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004541.jpg

You will see alot of imprefections, sealants, wires, and maybe even rust.

10. You need to move the wires out of your way, this is important. Do not paint the wires.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004571.jpg

11. As for the rust if you have some you need to remove all of it. It makes no since what-so-ever to seal it in. "Rust" which is a color not a type of corrosion is an oxide coating that comes from iron based metals such as "steel" it happens as a result of the metal which none in this earth are 100% pure tries to return to its natural state. To prevent this you must remove all the oxidation from the metal... or the process will continue.

12. To remove it there are a few methods, you can use a sander or sand paper, which is effective but slow, a grinder, which is effective but harsh, or a rotory tool that has 3M wheels like the one i used for this picture.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004561.jpg
The surface i grinded it bare, you want that "shine" it helps you determine that there is no more oxidation or pitting. It will be very wise to prime a bare surface so the liner will stick but is not required. I would recommend a self etching primer.
13. You will see four gray patches of material in the floor. One on each front pan and rear behind the seat. This has to be removed and is very very difficult. The sealant used on this material is hard core. I tried alot of chemicals even some that are not even legal. No effect. The best way to remove it is with a hammer and chisel and scraper... get most of it off, you will not get all of it off.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004551.jpg
14. Use a hammer and beat down any sharp edges, or abnormalities. get your sand paper, and rough up the entire floor... You are not looking for bare metal just scouff it up very good.
15. When that is all said and done you will need to prep the floor for paint. This is where your alcohol comes into play... apply alot of alcohol and wipe all the surfaces down clean. Get all the dirt oils and grease. You must wear your respirator for this, it is not an option. Everytime you breathe in alcohol you lose your tolerance for the substance, til eventually when get sensitive to touch or air. Not an option.
16. When the alcohol evaporates look over your work, make sure the seat studs are taped, the seat belt harness bolt holes are protected and everything you wanted masked off is. When done so go ahead and shake your can of liner for 2-3 minutes. When done pour contents into a metal pale or pan. (While using your respirator mind you!)
17. Get your brush and dab it in the paint, the technique for this comes from kindergarten origins... paint within the lines and in one direction just like crayons With that side paint the small nooks and crannies first before tackling the larger wide open areas. Lay a thick generous coat down. Ultimate goal is at least 5 mils of thickness. When you coat everything stop your first coat is done. You must wait an hour between coats.
Do not leave your brush in your pale, stick it in a plastic bag so it will not cure.
18. on your next coat look for spots you have missed and then get those first. look for thin areas and apply a good amount on them. Make sure you put alot of liner on where your feet will be.
19. continue coats until gallon is all gone.

When you are finished you will get something like this...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004591.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004661.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004711.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004731.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004761.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004781.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9.../IM0004691.jpg

Good luck and let me know what you think!

18inchboyds

i think if you get into an accident with those belts fastened down low to the floor like that you will get hurt .

dr1

i respect the write-up and the work that went into the proccess.. but, you dont want to know "what I think" about the outcome ;0

whens the new carpet coming?

92RS(real slow)

Looks a lot better then I thought it was going to look when I first heard you were going to do this. Great write up by the way I think I will stick with my carpet though

cooltc2004

iTrader: (4)

There are many benifits to doing this, and one of them is usually not visual. My first impression was "omg no carpet is going back in". But then I thought about what you said about weight savings and rust prevention. I think for a full out drag car, this is a great option. I even think this is a great option for under neith the carpet. Let us know about sound deadening.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Why do people find it necessary to criticize a person's different choice?

If he likes, he likes it. That's all that really matters!

Geez! I can't understand why people find it necessary try to degrade a person's choice?

As far as the shoulder belt mounts causing injury...Why? From the manufacturer, there is a floor mount available, so no real big difference.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

those belts are safe, they have a greater than 45 degree angle. this has already be debated and has passed tech inspection. as long as the belt angle from mounting point to flat of seat is more than 45 degrees it is safe.
Anyways, thanks for the comments, yes it isnt for everyone, maybe i will put in carpet, but i love the idea of a low maint floor that is easy too clean and is cheap.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

also, there is no need to get bent out of shape. most people will not like it. i told everyone id do it so someone can say yeah thats been done before it was good or it wasnt. The end results werent horrible but i had higher expectations. This is a weekend car only and the coating is justified for now. personally I think it would have looked a million times better if I had bondo'ed certain areas to make it all look level. I wont write this off as a catastrophe, because even my wife thinks it was "better than it was" shes my strongest critic. I just cant justify spending $140 on carpet for me to trash it. this was a good $50 well spent. I will do the trunk area as well, which will serve a purpose for a great padding for a battery relocation.
Getting back to the harnesses, there iis a reason people buy 'floor" mount harnesses and this is why, they are safe when done as shown. You cant see it but even the head rest on my seat has a special webbing that keeps the harnesses from slipping off the shoulders. (will take pics tomorrow if you'd like to see) I plan on getting a cage but its low on priority list. The harnesses I got for $60 for the pair and my stock 3 pts had broken ertia wheels..

ohiothirdgen

I think your article is very well written. For the people who would want to retain their carpet. This was just done on a 66 Chevelle SS that my stepfather is restoring for his father. They "Rhino Lined" the underside of the car and inside the trunk area. It will be covered up by carpet in the trunk and the underside you wouldnt be able to tell. This 50 dollars now will potentially save you thousands later if your planning on keeping your car long term.

DJP87Z28

Another ******* Camaro was born.

dr1

I wasnt criticizing, he specifically asked for my opinion on the bottom of his post, and my opinion was it was a nice writeup, however it will look nicer with carpet

And ill strongly disagree with the use of rubber coating as a rust preventative.. because its not, if it were we'd just be spraying bare metal with rubber. Your paint is the rust preventative, and the rubber is to protect your paint.. however in the interior of your car the only thing it can do besides save your floorpans from your shoes? is get wet and absorb moisture.. the real bad part about that is the rubber is incredibly durable and will easily outlast your floorpan. The time you realize your floor is rusting is probably the same time you just put your foot through it.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

precisely why i strongly recommended primer in my write up. even without it rubber would be an awesome corrosion preventative.
there are three things that makes corrosion... an anode, cathode, aand electrolyte. the anode and cathode are parts of the metal themselves, they are different metals since no such thing as a pure metal there is always contamination. The cathode corrodes the anode. The cathode needs the electrolyte to supply a path to drain electrons from the anode.
By covering the metal with rubber, electrolye can not provide that path for corrosion.. this is why i recommend primer then rubber. this is an excellent corrosion preventor i promise you.

82 Iron Duke

iTrader: (21)

Thank you for sharing this project and I wish I would have done this during my interior resto. I would have installed the carpet over because weight reduction is not my top priority but anything to stop oxidation in the car is a plus. I commend you for your efforts, for the step by step instruction and having the audacity to attempt such a project after having all the negative pre and post remarks. You get 5

82 Iron Duke

iTrader: (21)

Having taken chemistry in college I concur, you are 1000% correct sir. Ignorance is like a disease and can be caught easily.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

I am not trying to be a know it all, but i am an aircraft mechanic and have a license in corrosion control which is a HUGE plague in aircraft. corrosion is part of my life. Thanks for your support Iron Duke, Yeah carpet is very nice but since i am in the middle of a bunch of different transitions the carpet would be ruined in no time... this liner is more than adequate to suit my needs till the time arises when the carpet is next in line on the priority list. for a weekend warrior i cant complain... gives the car the race track look... since my car is flat black with a 4 in cowl hood... i think the floor just kinda fits in well lol

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

is it just me or does every one else unable to "edit" post. I just wanted to add things to the write up.

dr1

No, im not an aircraft mechanic, or have a license in corrosion prevention, but I do understand the science behind it ;0

regardless im speaking from my own experience, living in new england ive seen plenty of cars with and without undercoating and such, however they generally share the same amount of rust in the end, one is just easily visible and repairable, the other is hiding behind rubber undercoat that is somehow still clinging on for dear life

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

you asked for my honest opinion and here it is:

i like it ALOT better than the baremetal interior bracket cars, however, with as lightweight as an ACC carpet is (like less than 10lbs.) i say whenever you have some extra cash that you look into getting it. it'll really help make the car more complete...but this is coming from a guy that has full interior with all four seats and sub and who's car weighs 2950lbs.

subliminal

iTrader: (1)

I did the exact same thing last year but I put my carpet back in

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

As long as the electrolyte has no access to the surface of the metal corrosion can not happen it is impossible without an electrolyte. However, if the surface was broken, even a small bit enough for water, or some other non neutral substance to make contact with the metal corrosion will happen but at a slower rate.
you are right in the sense it will be difficult to detect corrosion with this material on. this stuff is hardcore, I tried some on a the side of a metal post, I can barely get the stuff off. So I am confident that this liner will do what i need to.
functionality is more important than looks right now. i got a flat black paint job because i covered up corrosion, got a 4" cowl hood so I could actually close the hood without a drop base and using my intake. and i needed to adress my floor and so i did this.
I do everything because i need it to function not because i think its cool. because i am not into flat black or rubber floors... when all the needs are taken care of, then money can go to wants.
There are too many people who will put 20's on there car before a tune up.
i am not that guy. My car isnt the best looking but it will surprise some people in the way it works for me.

cooltc2004

iTrader: (4)

I was definitally not ripping what he did apart, I think its actually a bloody good idea, and I might look into doing this under my carpet.

thepoz89

looks better than bare metal. It gives it a more finished look on a hot rod.

82 Iron Duke

iTrader: (21)

It's funny how the tides turn with a bit of factual info and when some vets feedback are given. You did great my friend and I am next in line even though I have taken my interior apart and restored it not too long ago.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

i think this mod would be a great addition to some good carpet... I wont be able to do the sound test until later this week... i cant wait. The rubber without a doubt will quite the ratting panels such as the kick panels, the panels under the rear speakers and such... plus the oem sound deadening gathers alot of mold from humidity....
i hope people do this mod... its alot of work but it can be done in an afternoon...

82 Iron Duke

iTrader: (21)

I will be at your house next weekend with the beer, let's do it!

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

I have plenty of room, i'm not scared... You know how when people get a bedline they have that logo that says "rhino lining" I should do peoples cars and get an emblem that says "Your pans were pimped by nelapse" lol

Toehead

jagevileye21

iTrader: (3)

Good job I think it turned out nice. If I had the time I would do this mod also.

Jay

White93z34

iTrader: (1)

i see it as a way of alterntive sound deadening with a hint of corrosion protection, if i was ever completely redoing my car, i'd consider it for sure.

83camaroMN

I think it looks good . You did a good job of typing that all out step by step and pics good job, another . And I saw somthing above about the edit botton or w/e Iv been having probs with that to I dont know if its the site or my comp but it realy sucks.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

Yeah well, there is alot more I want to add to the write up but for some reason I am not allowed to edit my own post

This may be a stupid idea, but what id you coat the undersiding of your steel hood with the liner? Mine is pretty rough...
I have already planned to use some for my wheel wells, and a couple undercoating spots.