I don't know what to do, and I did some research. I guess it's just an adjustment, but I was trying to figure it out, and I had no luck. My hatch motor works good for the most part, when I push the button it opens, than when it gets up to the top it closes by itself again. I'm guessing there's an adjustment, but I don't know. If someone is at the back of the car, and they lift the hatch it wont go back down, until you want to close it. I guess it's putting too much pressure on the motor, and it thinks I want it to close. I thought it was the lift struts, but they are fine. thanks

 

Are you positive the struts are good? Are they new? If not I'd be willing to bet they are the problem, had the same thing happening on one of my cars and thats what it was.

 

I would think it could be the struts or just the hinges need a little lubrication. It sounds like the hatch is not coming up enough to clear the activator switch.

 

The struts seem fine, I will replace them. Otherwise there is surprisingly no problems with the motor, at least that I know.

 

You would be surprized that the struts are supposed to lift the hatch all the way open when new. But as the wear they just pop it enough so it doesn't close again, but they will seem ok because they do hold the hatch open when you lift it.

 

when I pop my hatch, it opens by itself. You probably need new struts.

 

I had no idea, that's pretty damn cool than. No one ever told me, and I never read it, that's a nice feature. I just assumed they were fine because they held the hatch open with no problem. I also doubt I have any problems with the motor it sounds fine and it pulls the hatch down tight. thanks

 

Check down in the motor/release for a broken tab or peices of plastic. Mine did this one day after shutting it a little too hard and did the same thing. I had to replace the motor assembly.

 

That doesn't sound good. I wont be surprised if that's what happened to me. I slammed it hard before, I had no idea there was a hatch motor. I assumed it was just a solenoid at first that just unlocked it. I will check for broken peices. thanks

 

My GTA does the same thing, but my hatch lift shocks are fine, my factory spoiler is cracked and absorbs water like a sponge making the hatch weigh a TON. Something for you to also check.

 

It is very tough to get hatch struts to pop open the hatch on Firebirds that have the HEAVY aero spoiler. It is cake on a Camaro since they don't have this spoiler, just swap new hatch struts. For Firebird there are two solutions I'm aware of. Before I describe the solutions, let me explain in detail the cause of the problem.

What is happening is this, the rear hatch solenoid is properly releasing the hatch hook. However the hatch hook is not fully clearing the latch due to the weight of that spoiler. The "uP" cycle was begun once the hatch hook is released by the solenoid and the striker-sensing switch opens. As the pull-down travels up it re-latches on the hatch hook. It continues powering up until the lift rod trips flips the reversing switch which normally shuts off the up cycle. However, since the latch has already re-latched onto the hatch hook, the striker-sensing swith is already depressed which immediately starts the down cycle once that reversing switch has been tripped.

Now onto the two solutions. The first solution is to yank off that HEAVY spoiler and replace it with the aftermarket hollow and considerably lighter fiberglass one. The second solution is to adjust the pull-down unit up or down slightly until you can get it to the point that the hatch hook will maintain pressure on the striker-sensing switch so it doesn't immediately start the up cycle. I'va adjusted the pull-down motor on my 88 Firebird Formula as I've just described. Just be sure to mark the current location with a scratch awl or permanent marker so you know your starting point. There is a lot of adjustment both up and down and side-to-side with those large square holes in the frame of the pull-down unit.

These are the only two strategies that I know have had success on Firebirds with the aero spoiler. Camaro owners would be having the same trouble if their spoilers were as heavy.

Of course it goes without saying that you first need to start with strong hatch struts. That is the first step, the two solutions I've mentioned are to follow the installation of the htch struts.

Good luck,

Lon

 

Thanks everyone, and Lon. I appreciate it, I will try adjusting it. I didn't do anything yet, but I will. I don't drive the car otherwise I would've fixed it already. I didn't know I could adjust the motor so it's further down. I figured it was the case, but I didn't really check yet. Swapping the spoilers isn't for me, I only paid $800 for the roller, and I don't really want to put money into the body. I care about function not looks. I still have yet to buy those sfc's from TDS, but I will, along with other things. Thanks again.

 

I would start by adjusting it up slightly. You want the hook to remain in contact with the striker-sensing switch after the solenoid had released the latch.

Lon

 

I Have the same problem , i have to hit the button then RUN to the hatch so it doesnt close, what it does is it goes up a little, then goes right back down, how do i fix this, new struts or is it a motor

 

The camaro in your avaitar??? If so most likely you need new hatch struts.

 

Try aligning the hatch pull down motor to the hook that is attached to the hatch. That worked for me. Along with getting new hatch shocks.

Kevin

 

My car does the same thing. I'll try new hatch struts B4 I start messing around with the hatch pull down assembly.

TGO to the rescue again

 

Same exact thing happened to me man. I hit the trunk button, It went up almost disengaging, Then pulls right back down and shuts. There was a little plastic lever that sense's where the striker is at. I broke it clean off. Only fix I know is replacing the assembly. 45 bucks at the dealer. Most likely have to be ordered if they even still sell them. Anybody know of a window motor rebuild kit. My next project.

 

I finally got around to trying a quick fix, and it worked, but for a little. I tryed at first adjusting it higher, because I belive lonsal said to do that. Even though that seemed wrong, because I automatically thought it would need to be lower. Anyway, I tried that first with no luck. Than I lowered it, and it worked, but the motor seemed to strain way too much, and I tried getting it just right, and after an hour I said **** it. That's the least of my worries right now, but I thank you all for trying to help me, and not bashing me. I also looked for broke peices, but none were to be found, nevertheless, it even looks like the previous scumbag, even managed to hack into the wiring back there. WTF? But it's all in order.

 

Yeah, I have the same problem on my Trans am, I need to buy a new fiberglass spoiler. That old heavy rubber spoiler has some crackes in it. So I need one before I repaint my car.
Anyone know where to get a good quailty one for a good price?
And for all you lazy people out there.....use your key to unlock the hatch LOL!!
But I have to admit, I hit the button and run to the rear hoping to catch it LOL!!

 

Well I finally got around to getting new struts, and it fixed the problem. Sometimes the hatch even opens all the way up now.

 

If it was on the road I would've fixed it already. I will buy new struts first.

 

replace the motor

 

Why would I replace the motor if it works. I think it makes more sense to buy new struts, and try that first. If that doesn't work, i'm not buying a new motor, i'll unplug it, and just open the hatch with a key.

 

New struts will help but the problem is the catch (fork-bolt) in the latch. The part that actually grabs the striker. Try cleaning it with penertrating oil and then re-lube it. If you close it by hand with a phillips screw driver for instance, don't touch switch, you should get a good pop out of it when released with the key.

 

replace the motor

 

Hi,
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but until reading this thread I did not realize you could have both the hatch release and the pull down motor.

My 84, has the electric hatch release, but not the pull down motor.

How hard would it be to add the pull down? Are the brackets back there to hold the motor?

Since I'm restoring this car, might as well add this little feature.

 

The mounting brackets for your "slam-latch" style is different then either the 1986-91 or 1991-92 pull-down motors. It can be done, you'd have to cut the mounting brackets from a doner car and install them into yours.

Lon

 

bummer, was hoping it would be a just swap out type of thing.

Anyone have pics of the motor assy installed so I can see how it mounts?
Don't have a doner car, so just wonder how involved it would be?