Need help... A while back i saw a video (cant remember where) where someone was using filler from a caulk like tube, but it was split in 2 sections. I guess one side contained filler and the other hardener, and once it came out it would make a perfect mix.... Was wonderin if n e one has used something like that and what brands/ whats it called? I would mix up filler and hardener myself but i have no knowledge in that department, and from what i understand... To much or too little hardener and everything will be F'd up... I really dont wanna drop a crap load of hours doin it and do it wrong... So i figured if i can get it in the tubes and it makes a perfect mix for me ... then why not... Let me know... Thanks

 

Well first off the only auto stuff that came packaged like you say was a type of gorilla glue. Second what exactly are you trying to do?

 

Right now im workin on my firewall/engine bay... Basically wanna cover up all seams... I have little experience with body work... I dont know the proper way to mix filler and hardener.. I tried not that long ago, but i didnt feel like i had the right mix so i stripped it off the car... this is the look i want... no seams

I saw a vid where they were saying that the filler is on one side, the hardener on the other... And it gets put in a special gun, once the trigger is squeezed a both get pushed out and a perfect mix is made... Unless i misunderstood what they said. Here is a vid that shows what im talkin about.... Its not the one i saw before, but at least u'll get what im askin... id like to know if n e one has tried it and if it mixes as good as they say it does... heres a vid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Z2_5Baw4NI
heres another vid.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFDlh...eature=related

 

there a few companies that make that stuff. but what I have and works pretty good is 3m duramix the heavy bodies sealer. You apply it over primer and not to bare metal but they make one for that. You have to buy the gun though, the cheapest i've found is 40 from autobodytoolmart.com

 

40 bux doesn't sound bad to me... U talkin bout this automix stuff... http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-a...10856-594.aspx ... how much does it cover and how thick can i apply it (is there a number that restricts it from bein too thick?) Like filler basically, arent you not supposed to apply it too thick because it has a tendancy to crack? How easily does that sealer sand?

 

The factory seams are just spot welded... If you want to fill and smooth the seams, the first thing that should be done is some welding and grinding so that the seams don't flex and crack all your filler when you drive the car......

If you're going to use a seam sealer instead, the trick with them is to spread it smooth with a small body filler squeege. The seam sealer will stay pliable and it will not crack on the spot welded seams.... Panel adhesive comes in the two part tubes, too. It is sandable---but not easily sandable like body filler....

If you choose to weld and grind the seams, then use filler you will get a much smoother surface if you take the time to sand it correctly and not get in a hurry. On the seams under the hood and on the firewall, after welding I would use a light coat of Evercoat filler with the short strand fiberglass in it, then topcoat that after sanding with Evercoat Rage---

 

first off heres a pic...

I got a welder and i tried welding around the battery tray... N i just made it crappier than before... Ive practiced a little on scrap metal and my welds were decent, but when i tried on the car didnt turn out as nice.... I could try again, just wish i knew someone around me that had some experience with this... The thing that worries me is... i dont know how to mix filler and hardener... I did it on the strut towers before but i didnt trust it... Plus isnt filler only supposed to b applied to a certain thickness max... Cause theres a lot to fill around those areas.... Why 2 fillers??? The filler i used at first was the Evercoat Rage (The one without the fiberglass i think...).... Think i still got 3/4's of the gallon left... I hate not knowing what to do, i just wanna do it right and know it'll be there long after the car falls apart...

 

Some type of coating on the factory sheetmetal, I've noticed the same thing when welding on mine under the hood. Before I do any welding, I use a 36 grit sanding disc and grind till the metal is nice and clean. I've also used a small propane torch and a wire brush to clean the seams. I also use a PPG metal cleaner and conditioner, seems to help some....can't remember the number on it, but I could get it for you tomorrow.

On the seams you show in your picture, I would probably use the 3M adhesive for gluing new quarter panels on---again, sorry, can't remember the number....one of those afflictions that comes with age, I guess.... Anyway, the panel adhesive can be spread with a small squeege--or your finger tip and with a bit of practice will come out quite smooth. Wear some rubber gloves, the stuff is really tough to get off of your hands!!!! It can be sanded, too.

The reason I said to use the filler with the short strand glass in it is because it is both waterproof and much stronger then regular filler. It will prevent any moisture from seeping into your filler from the back side..... I've used this method for years with excellent results!

 

I've been know to say a lot and it tends to make it hard to answer all my questions... So let's start with this... You saying I should use the panel bond on the seams and for the panels??? Y on the quarters??? As far as the panel bond stuff, if what ur refering to and what i think it is.... I was told that once it dries its just as hard as a weld.... True or not???? As far as the filler i got this stuff... is that cool???



So what would i do.... Panel bond... Then the short strand filler, and finally the rage gold filler???

Some things i really need to know are this (bout filler...be it regular or the stranded one).... What's too thick??? How ideal should the mixture of filler/hardener be??? How do i know if once im done with the work that it wont crack on me??? (especially if i drop 450+ Horsepower under the hood) The reason i ask is because... as i stated earlier.... When i was messin with the filler the first time and i was mixing the hardener in, it started getting tacky and dryin way too quick. Then i tried it again and the second time (a few minutes later) i applied it to the strut towers and it didn't start dryin for like an hour n a half... I just dont trust my skills yet... So any help and/or advice(input) u can give me, i would really appreciate it... Thanks... ROB

 

Trying to answer in order here:

No, you don't use all 3. You can go 1 of 2 directions. Either use the panel bond to fill in the seams, sand it smooth and topcoat with the Rage if needed. OR use the filler with the short strand fiberglass to fill the seams then sand it smooth and topcoat with the Rage if needed.

Too thick really depends on the filler used and where and how its applied. Generally speaking, 1/8" is too thick. You can get away with thicker on parts that aren't flexed if you use multiple thin coats to build up the thickness. I have just over 1/4" on my driver's door(don't ask) and it has been holding up just fine for 2 years now. I used about 5 coats to get it that thick. I will probably strip it all off and fix the door right or replace it when I go to paint the car.

The mixture doesn't have to be 100% perfect. If it is hardening too fast on you, apply what you can till it gets real stiff to work with using the spreader and then toss the leftovers and mix a new batch. If its taking to long to harden, put it on then wait overnight. If its still to soft the next day then it will never harden right and needs to be scraped off. Usually it should start to harden on you in about a half hour with full cure in about 1 1/2-2 hours.

You don't know it won't crack. Using body filler and/or panel adhesive is not the best way to do it. The best way as was mentioned is to weld the seams and grind them smooth. That way you use the least amount of filler necessary to fill any pinholes or small imperfections. If you must use strictly body filler or panel adhesive you will want to invest in a pair of subframe connectors(not a bad idea anyhow) to minimize chassis flex with that amount of power. They will help keep it from cracking longer, but in all likelihood the filler will eventually fail.

EDIT: It also helps to mix small amounts of hardener into the filler until you learn the proper amounts of each. You are shooting for a consistent color throughout the mix that is halfway between the shades of the hardener and filler. It also helps to mix small amounts at a time. You can always mix more and if you mixed it wrong, you don't have to throw so much away.

 

Weld.. yeah i know.. Im more concerned about building up the filler around the strut towers... There's a lot of space to fill there..... Im all about weldin, cause even though they wont be the nicest welds, as you said id grind anyway and go over with a thin layer of filler anyways... Ohh and the firewall too.... I just dont wanna burn through it... Do you think i should just get some sheet metal form it and weld around the towers... Then skim layer of filler... Another question is this... How many layers of stranded filler and regular filler??

 

I would think forming sheet metal around the towers would be more work than its worth.

As for how many layers of each filler, its going to depend on the thickness you need to fill. I would use the strand filler for all but the last layer. Regular filler is really just intended to smooth out minor imperfections in the surface such as pinholes and small depressions/waviness. If you make a layer too thick, you can always sand it down and then add a new layer.

 

Yeah.. Might b.. This bein my first build an all, im just tryin to expand my skills (or lack of skills)... All i know is this... Im not tryin to rush n e thing... Whether i do filler or weld/filler, etc... In the end i want only one thing... Whatever is gonna last longer... I know wear and tear and weather doesn't help.. That's y i wont let it see the light of day during winter and no rain... Not a daily driver either.

 

Welding is still the best, followed by grinding, the filler with 'glass, then the minimial amount of filler...then finally a very thin coat of Evercoat glaze, more sanding, and it's ready to prime....

 

And don't confuse panel bond with seam sealer, they are totally different. Panel bond will dry hard. Around the seams you want to use seam sealer, It's the same gun though for duramix products. I'm gonna weld my seams in the engine bay and fill them with filler. but around the quarter seams in the doors i was told the f-bodies are designed to flex tehre and if you use filler it will crack. I really wanted too but I used seam sealer. If you use masking tape on each side of the seam and use a foam brush from lowes you can get it pretty smooth and lookin good.