mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

If the Goof Off didn't work,try something a little bit more potent,Gasoline.That should work.

865sp

e bay for a $100 big ones or try a local junk yard , good luck, eastwood has some good rust stuff and kbs stuff is good also.

865sp

Any updates

Vgibson

Yes, the gas helped, used mostly the acitone...got them on, but wow, so hard to get the glass back on!! Is it supposed to be that tough?? Also the one door side window will also have to be adjusted to even meet the stripping along the front edge...while the other side was just fine...go figure! Good thing I have to had the door hing pin done on he drivers side, so I will have them also adjust the glass to match the seal when the door is removed etc. sigh...and it sure took a long time to do...4 evenings!
So, I hope the glass settles in a bit...as it is, don't know what to do to get them to not be so tight...will adjust the hold bar part where the handles lock in...otherwise seems to fit OK....
'
I did find however, on the back corners mostly, it is wise to really fill in that will cocking of some kind as no matter what you do, there will be a hole on each side that will let the water in, and I bet that was one of the problems to start with! Put in tons of glue...not taking any chances as far as possible! May not take the roof off again at this rate...well, not, have to put in the pillars back later...

Soo, that is my experiance...not fun at all..wow...hope to NEVER have to do that again!!LOL

Anyway, any ideas on the door and glass being so tight...I did set it in right...sigh...oh well...I think it will 'settle' in in this heat, so hope that will fix the problem, not counting on it however!

Thanks everyone!

Cheers,
Vicki K.

naf

iTrader: (7)

It'll settle down in no time. Good job.

Vgibson

Well, really having probs with the driver side...pass side sealed up just nice...driver side...forget it!! I mean, the glass does not seal, the wind comes in etc....I am getting new pins for the door to stop the sag problem, but it has a new pin on top and no longer sags...so don't get the problem here. I do see I have to get another set of plastic centers so the TTOP will fit into the holes..those seem to be way off track! Also, the center roof section seems to be way off center in that it is leaning in on one side and not the other...I can put my hand up into the roof section while sitting in the car and feel the seals on the center bar on one side, but not the other side...how do I fix that puzzle?? Are there adjustments other than a body hammer on that??? Very confused why this is happening. like wow.

Any ideas or help on this please? Go figure one side is just fine, while the other side is out to lunch! Sigh...shaking my head here. Seems who ever had done this before sure did a mess, and now I am dealing with the mess!!

Cheers,
Vicki K.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Have you read thru the GM manual linked from post #31? Lots of adjustment stuff in there.

Vgibson

no, did not know it was there, I am new here...is it on this set of pages? WIll try and find it, otherwise could you repost the link? It is blowing 60 mile per hour here, so very hard to even get outside ot work on it..sigh...gonna have to anyway!

Thank you!

naf

iTrader: (7)

Try:

Post #43 I think in the linked thread

Vgibson

I found the manual from Black Knight, post no.l 43...and thank you guys so very much...I will see if I can post a picture of my car I am working on. Got some nice extra TTOPs both for only 50.00 today....no scratches on the glass either...and since I drive mine all the time...a nice find...any way, I see now once I took stuff right down and apart in the wrecking yard...how the plasit post parts move and adjust...! Will help a lot...will just have to move the glass on the door in a bit now, but may let the body shop do that when they put in the new hing pin and parts when I have that done, as in adjusting the door, working that window at the same time only makes sense, right? So, just need to figure out the center bar and why it is uneven underneath it...may have to do with the screws on the top of the unit...all I can think of!

Any other ideas out there, just let me know...OH and I did find, that sometimes you also have to adjust the rails that hold in the weather stripping along the door and windshild side...as they can tend to work flatter as the door slams and the seal gets older...so, I adjusted that out some too, which also has helped to line thing up better...did anyone else do that too?? I took the hint from the passenger side, and noted the drivers side was not as curved as the other side was, so saw the problem...or so I hope.LOL

Again, grateful for this site...and fellows willing to lend a hand to each other...good going...! Nice to have in this world of ours!

Cheers,
Vicki K.

Vgibson

oh, is there a way to save this manual document onto my computer...I really would like to save it incase I may need it again for someone else, or me for that matter...a good addition to my library...) Just new at some of this link stuff...

cheers,
Vicki K.

86Zguy

idk if this helps but heres my 2 cents i did the exact same thing with my car full kit from 1a and i made sure to sand everything that came in contact with glue to ensure a solid conection also i painted the t bar and anything covered by weatherstripping with matte satin paint to get a perfect seal also i let the seals compress fully before installing and i left the tops on and didnt drive for 3 days so far it seals great with a couple drips if water is sprayed directly at the underside of the ts which isnt a big deal i dont drive in rain a lot and hey there t tops u cant expect it to b perfect unless u spend a ton of time on it hope that helps
ps load on the glue its like an extra layer of insurance

865sp

I just got my new factory seal in from Third Ranch, i had try two sets of OER, and the didn't fit worth a crap, the factory just by looking at them look and feel better, and just laying the on top to take shape i can tell the are going to fit a lot better , i will try to take some pics .

865sp

Trying to post pics but i got one side done with the new factory seals , and s far they are worth the money , the window goes up nicely and no space at the top at all .

865sp

Here are some pics of mine, the factory ones are worth the money, the oer just fell in the tracks ,these i had to fight to put in,and the widows roll up and look like the should.

865sp

I also found out that 3m 8011 is a lot thicker than 8008 and not as runny ,but takes longer to dry

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

is this gm nos ?

865sp

Yes

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

how much ?

865sp

I got them to the door from third ranch for $402.00 and bought the drip seal from 1A for 69.00, 1a had them for 455.0 plus drip seals

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

you also got gm door weather stripping ? as well

865sp

no just all the t top stuff

Blazer79

I know this thread is very old, but I just did exactly what this post said. Bought the 3M 08578 Black 1' Strip Calk and placed it right were it was illustrated and I finally have no leaks!!! I can't believe it!.

If you're thinking about using silicone, don't! This product is amazing as it acts like silicon, except you don't have to wait for it to dry and you can test it right away. If I had used silicone, it would've taken months of trial and error and frustration.