OK WTF
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Dumfries, VA
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 334 Stroker Superram 222/230
Transmission: Full Manual 700R4 / 3k Street Edge
Axle/Gears: 3.90 Eaton, Moser, Richmond & More
OK WTF
You have got to be kidding me.
I spent $100 on nice set of tails from the yard and supplies and when I tried doing the nightshades + clear this is what BOTH taillights did and ONLY on the amber turn signal sections. Cracks started forming after the very first base coat. The brake and marker lights adhered perfectly. I don't see how it was improper prep since I sanded everything with 400, 600 then 800 grit sandpaper, washed and wiped down with rubbing alcohol.
I frigging hate these funky grid taillights I don't even know why I tried doing a resto on them in the first place. It's times like these I wished I owned a trans am.
What gives?
I spent $100 on nice set of tails from the yard and supplies and when I tried doing the nightshades + clear this is what BOTH taillights did and ONLY on the amber turn signal sections. Cracks started forming after the very first base coat. The brake and marker lights adhered perfectly. I don't see how it was improper prep since I sanded everything with 400, 600 then 800 grit sandpaper, washed and wiped down with rubbing alcohol.
I frigging hate these funky grid taillights I don't even know why I tried doing a resto on them in the first place. It's times like these I wished I owned a trans am.
What gives?
Last edited by FireDemonSiC; May 29, 2012 at 12:21 AM.
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Re: OK WTF
cracks may be due to drying too fast and missing an ingredient to help the paint/nightshade be more flexible.
i know when painting plastic bumpers your supposed to add something to the paint to make it flexible so it doesn't crack easily if the plastic bends a little.
but looks like there wasn't enough paint sprayed so it dried very thin and cracked.
i could be totally wrong, try to get some paint remover and try again just lay it on a little thicker, it might do the trick.
goodluck.
i know when painting plastic bumpers your supposed to add something to the paint to make it flexible so it doesn't crack easily if the plastic bends a little.
but looks like there wasn't enough paint sprayed so it dried very thin and cracked.
i could be totally wrong, try to get some paint remover and try again just lay it on a little thicker, it might do the trick.
goodluck.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,342
Likes: 24
From: Dumfries, VA
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 334 Stroker Superram 222/230
Transmission: Full Manual 700R4 / 3k Street Edge
Axle/Gears: 3.90 Eaton, Moser, Richmond & More
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,342
Likes: 24
From: Dumfries, VA
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 334 Stroker Superram 222/230
Transmission: Full Manual 700R4 / 3k Street Edge
Axle/Gears: 3.90 Eaton, Moser, Richmond & More
Re: OK WTF
cracks may be due to drying too fast and missing an ingredient to help the paint/nightshade be more flexible.
i know when painting plastic bumpers your supposed to add something to the paint to make it flexible so it doesn't crack easily if the plastic bends a little.
but looks like there wasn't enough paint sprayed so it dried very thin and cracked.
i could be totally wrong, try to get some paint remover and try again just lay it on a little thicker, it might do the trick.
goodluck.
i know when painting plastic bumpers your supposed to add something to the paint to make it flexible so it doesn't crack easily if the plastic bends a little.
but looks like there wasn't enough paint sprayed so it dried very thin and cracked.
i could be totally wrong, try to get some paint remover and try again just lay it on a little thicker, it might do the trick.
goodluck.
The second tail I applied it thin and it still did the same thing.
Also, I'd like to emphasize that the amber sections were the only spots this happened to. The rest of the tails were applied exactly the same way and turned out fine.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,342
Likes: 24
From: Dumfries, VA
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 334 Stroker Superram 222/230
Transmission: Full Manual 700R4 / 3k Street Edge
Axle/Gears: 3.90 Eaton, Moser, Richmond & More
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From: Streetsboro Oh
Car: 1987 T/A WS6 T-Tops/92 RS
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Re: OK WTF
I have been using Niteshaddes for year and have had good luck most of the time, but I have had it do the "crack" thing a few times. I have to redo the Niteshades on my truck taillight this week, due to getting Aceton on them, hope they come out nice again.
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From: NYC
Car: 1982 Recaro TA, 1989 TTA#948
Re: OK WTF
I can never understand why someone posts a thread looking for advice and then jumps on someone who gives an opinion you disagree with. He is trying to help. Be grateful he took the time to read your thread. I know you are frustrated with the way they turned out and disagree with the opinion expressed, but that doesn't seem like the correct reaction when someone is trying to help you out.
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From: OX CA
Car: TOO MANY
Engine: 350 TPI / 350 TBI/6.0L VORTEC
Transmission: T5/AUTO/AUTO
Re: OK WTF
working with spray can products is tricky because they do not have commercial grade chemicals in them
good luck and keep us updated.
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From: OX CA
Car: TOO MANY
Engine: 350 TPI / 350 TBI/6.0L VORTEC
Transmission: T5/AUTO/AUTO
Re: OK WTF
I can never understand why someone posts a thread looking for advice and then jumps on someone who gives an opinion you disagree with. He is trying to help. Be grateful he took the time to read your thread. I know you are frustrated with the way they turned out and disagree with the opinion expressed, but that doesn't seem like the correct reaction when someone is trying to help you out.
i didnt wanted to be the one to point it out Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,342
Likes: 24
From: Dumfries, VA
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 334 Stroker Superram 222/230
Transmission: Full Manual 700R4 / 3k Street Edge
Axle/Gears: 3.90 Eaton, Moser, Richmond & More
Re: OK WTF
I can never understand why someone posts a thread looking for advice and then jumps on someone who gives an opinion you disagree with. He is trying to help. Be grateful he took the time to read your thread. I know you are frustrated with the way they turned out and disagree with the opinion expressed, but that doesn't seem like the correct reaction when someone is trying to help you out.
Normally that wouldn't be a big deal but on this board it happens ALL the time 70% of the people here are just using blind guesswork to solve a problem.
Honestly in hindsight TGO wasn't the right place to come for help on this subject but again my fault for not giving it enough thought before I posted.
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Car: 91 Firebird,00 c2500,75 Vette
Engine: 3.1 but 350 soon, 350, 350
Transmission: T56 soon
Axle/Gears: stock 3.42 Posi to come
Re: OK WTF
I can see both sides here and as far as I am concerned it was a misunderstanding. I read the first post and thought the same thing, that the plastic on the taillight had cracked from the prep or nightshade. Obviously I did not understand it either.
I wish I had an answer for you but I have never used the VHT Nightshades. I might suggest seeing if they have any help info online.
I wish I had an answer for you but I have never used the VHT Nightshades. I might suggest seeing if they have any help info online.
Last edited by 91phoenix; May 31, 2012 at 11:33 AM. Reason: spelling
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,342
Likes: 24
From: Dumfries, VA
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 334 Stroker Superram 222/230
Transmission: Full Manual 700R4 / 3k Street Edge
Axle/Gears: 3.90 Eaton, Moser, Richmond & More
Re: OK WTF
Juan was half correct. When I sanded the amber lenses down, I found out the problem.
The rubbing alcohol did not cause the cracks to form, but while spraying the paint would cause tiny surface "Tears" in the lenses, which is why they went undetected until it was too late. It didn't crack the plastic all the way through they were just superficial.
I remedied this by spraying the first several coats very light and when I would see a crack begin to form, stopped it from cracking the paint by, are you sitting down? Using a toothpick dipped in superglue to draw in the crack then apply a coat or two of nightshade ontop before laying down the clear. When the lenses were done I masked those off and refinished the grid.
Anyways, here are some pictures and again, sorry for going off like I did.
The rubbing alcohol did not cause the cracks to form, but while spraying the paint would cause tiny surface "Tears" in the lenses, which is why they went undetected until it was too late. It didn't crack the plastic all the way through they were just superficial.
I remedied this by spraying the first several coats very light and when I would see a crack begin to form, stopped it from cracking the paint by, are you sitting down? Using a toothpick dipped in superglue to draw in the crack then apply a coat or two of nightshade ontop before laying down the clear. When the lenses were done I masked those off and refinished the grid.
Anyways, here are some pictures and again, sorry for going off like I did.
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Canada, Alberta
Car: 91' Camaro RS T-top
Engine: 3.1 V6
Transmission: Auto
Re: OK WTF
Anyone know where I can get a set of those that have the Red lens for the signal.
Also. anyone know any good sequiental signal kits. that would do the Yellow Red Red, Yellow Red red.
Like this car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lW-4vIS7XA
Also. anyone know any good sequiental signal kits. that would do the Yellow Red Red, Yellow Red red.
Like this car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lW-4vIS7XA
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Car: 91 Firebird,00 c2500,75 Vette
Engine: 3.1 but 350 soon, 350, 350
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Axle/Gears: stock 3.42 Posi to come
Re: OK WTF
It looks good. Very glad you figured out.
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From: Minnesota
Car: 89 Trans Am GTA
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Re: OK WTF
You could go with these, kinda spendy but they look nice.
http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/se...ed+tail+lights
http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/se...ed+tail+lights
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