My lever for the high beam switch dosent work for some reason. For example when i pull it back its suppose to make that <click> sound. And mine dosent do that,about 3 months ago i had to force it back towards me to turn it on now it dosent even go on. what could be the problem.

 

In my '84, the actual switch is down under the dash mounted on the steering shaft, it's actuated by a pushrod that comes down from the column lever.
Mine was messed up too, the switch housing cracked and it was just flopping around under there. I have to fix this in my '91, it's getting weaker and the throw on the turn signal switch is getting longer.
I'm pretty sure this info is accurate, somebody correct me if i'm wrong, please.

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DR Stevens
Car #1:
1984 TA L69 H.O.
750 cfm Q-Jet reman. by Holley, 700R4 /w/ Superior shiftkit, 3.42 lim.slip, 4whl disc, underdrive pulleys, Accel HEI, experimental dual snorkel /w/ hood louver, some sort of weird 3" exhaust soon to be replaced
Car #2:
'91 Firebird/Formula LO3
all stock except K&N air filter (but not for long!!)

 

hey man i recently bought a new motor for my 91 camaro. it would have been 110 dollars through GM. I got it from advance auto parts for 51.

 

Hey Rss, thats alot of money for a highbeam switch.:P

 

Your high-beam switch should be located on your steering colum, under the dash, at about the 11:00 position, looking at the wheel. There are two 1/4 screws on the switch bracket itself and all you have to do is loosen those and adjust the switch so that is in the right position and operates correctly with that actuator rod. I'll tell you, it's a PITA to get to, but fixing it is easy...

KAM

 

Read the tech article about putting in a floor mounted foot swith. The one he talks about will connect to the existing harness.

 

It is a PITA to get to the actual switch. There are two rods that go down the side, one is ignition and other is high beam. If it isn't make the sound then it probably just needs to be adjusted. If you want to make the adjustment easiest then unbolt the steering column from the firewall (3 bolts), then unbolt the 2 that are hidden by the knee pad. You don't need to unbolt the column from the shaft, just lower it and you'll see the 2 small screws on the switch to tighten it down, test it and adjust, don't just tighten it down. Be careful with the airbag, I would disconect the battery first.

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, Jon (91 RS too many mods to list)

 

thanks guys im gonna try to fix it today.

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92' camaro
New 305 block TPI conversion, Flat top pistons,Bore over .30 Forged parts all around,Edelbrock intake,ported plennum,ported corvette alluminum heads, accel cam,52mm throttle bodie, SLP runners Home aid cold air induction, Air foil,ford SVO 19lb injectors,fuel regulator,cloys timing chain, comp alluminum roller rocker arms and pushrods MSD 8.5 mm wires, bosch plattinum plugs, hypertech cap & rotor and coil, Edelbrock TES headers, free flowing catalytic converter and a 3 inch force II flowmaster exhaust system, and a 3 inch cutout,Zoom multi friction clutch, T-5 tranny,billenstien shocks&struts.
Soon to come!!!
Procharger system 12lbs o boost.
New paint job(hawaiin orchid purple)Cast alluminum ZR1 rims w/ 275 tires.
Favorite quote: "where ever u go, there u are"

Other car;
1971 plymouth Duster
Mods:340,edelbrock victor jr. intake, 650 4 barrel holley, heddman headers,40 series dual flowmasters, cold air intake,4:10 gears, just got a new paint job and cragar rims with 315 tires in the back.
:Yeah its not a chevy but damn how many 71' dusters have u seen in the streets.