dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I have removed all the rusted areas and welded in patch panels. Now I am wondering what the next step should be.

I used Eastwood rust encapsulation paint to seal off the patches. I then called eastwood and told them I wanted some tough paint for my axle. They recommended 2k chassis paint. I then read about it and thought "why not paint the interior floor as well as the axle?" But since I have already used the rust encapsulation paint, I will have to scuff the entire floor. OK.

I also want to strip the floor from the outside. I will have to strip the under coating. Once I do, and seal any patch welds...

Question is, what do I next?

2k primer, 2k paint inside and out once everything is striped and sealed? Then rubberized undercoating?

I want to do this right. Thanks for any help.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Have you considered spray-on truck bed coating?
It also comes in a brush-on or roll-on version.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Yes I have. I am open to all ideas and opinions.

I just want to know what the steps would be to get great results and long lasting protection.

I really don't care about cost or time it takes to apply at this point, I just want to know how its done, when done well.

I have had the car in pieces since 2010, I don't want it to to put it back together unless the foundation, the floor, is done right.

I have seen builds done by shops that get the entire car media blasted, then the epoxy prime and apply paint, but these tend to be show cars or track cars sponsored by companies. $$$, with back up $$$ if something goes wrong or needs touch up.

I am looking for a good tried and true solution to what to do about the floor that does not involve me transporting the car to a media blaster.

I think I can just use a heat gun and scrapper to remove most of the undercoating, then PRE to clean it all off. Then 80 grit to scruff up the floor inside and out. But then what?

Primer, then bead liner?
Primer then paint, the rubberized undercoat?
What about the inside? Primer then paint?

Can't find any clear direction as to what to do here...

kentuckyKITT

iTrader: (4)

Here's what I did. In 2007, about a year after I bought my 82, I stripped out the interior and ground out a few surface rust areas, primed those and then using a green scotch brite pad, scuffed all of the metal. I then air hosed all the dust out for about an hour until I was satisfied that all the dust was out. I just used spray rubberized undercoating that you find in an autoparts store at the time. I don't remember the brand, but it took about 6 cans for about 3 coats.

Before: My pans were in good shape really, just some surface rust and a few small holes I patched:





I masked off the dash, shifter, hvac & windshield and coated everything including up the sides, tbar, rear hatch area, trunk well, tail light panel, basically anywhere I could get coating on. I had a 5 gallon bucket of mineral spirits on hand and as soon as I was done spraying I immediately wiped any excess/overspray off of the car body. There wasn't much, I was careful and there was no wind.







You could roll it or brush it on, but with all the nooks and crannies and brackets, it would take forever to get everything coated. You could also mask the entire outside of the car if you wish. At the time, I wasn't concerned because the paint wasn't that great anyway. Mineral spirits will remove fresh undercoating very easily.

About a year ago, I stripped the interior again to have the car repainted and the coating still looked the same as the day I did it with no rust anywhere. I had planned on doing the underside of the car, but have never gotten around to it, but it's rust free currently 10 years later.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the insight KITT.

Looks like that worked out well for you.

punkmaster98

iTrader: (5)

Im in the process of doing this on my 87. Pressure wash the underside and then coat it with RUSTSEAL. Ill have about 3 coats on the floor when im done and its rock hard when it dries.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the suggestion punkmaster98.

Any idea how that stuff is different from POR15?

I have used that before and was not in love with it.

It also only being a single part (not catalyzed) worries me. Makes me think it won't be as hard and thick.

Not based on any fact though, just a hunch. Just trying to make a list of pros and cons for all the different products that all seem to do and claim the same thing...

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Just wondering if anyone has used LizardSkin, and if that would be appropriate for this?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Never used it, have seen it used in magazines. I thought it was purely a sound deadening material. Not a top coat or undercoat.

punkmaster98

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure how it compares to por-15, but i did use the rustseal with a pre paint chemical rustblast on my stock kmember and it removed most of the surface rust and left most of it shiny. After 3 coats of satin black it is pretty stout.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

I did this many years ago using POR15 on the underside and Hammerite Rust Cap on the interior shell. The POR15 came with the pre-spray solution and the metal etch solution. I stripped all areas down to bare metal. (many dozens of hours with a dozens of wire wheels on drills, sandpaper, wire brushes, scrapers, etc) and did the POR 15. it has held up INCREDIBLE. I am very happy with it. Super easy to wipe odd any grease or grime as opposed to rubberized coating which has some texture to it and holds dirt/grime. This stuff dries smooth, maybe an occasional brush stroke. There are photos on one of the sub-pages of my website actually,
the link is here:

http://www.freewebs.com/iroczman15/workdonein2010.htm

Highly recomended!

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the website link and pics. Looks like a great project!

For my build I am thinking more about how cars come from the factory.

For example, they prime the entire thing, then paint the entire thing followed by some sort of undercoating.

This is the path I am leaning towards. It makes for a 3 layer system under the car.
1. Primer
2. Paint
3. Undercoat

I know rubberized undercoat has texture, but that is also what makes it have small high spots that act like bumpers to absorb the impact of road debris.

Not sure, but I don't think it would make much sense to prime, paint then POR-15 (or other like product) right?

Or would it?

I really have no idea. There doesn't seem to be any hard fast rules out there.
Every manufacturer says their stuff is the best and "apply right over rust!".

No

That's lazy. I am not lazy and this build is not a lazy, get done right away build. I want it to be the most "right" possible. Something manufactures don't advertise to since most builds are not like this.

Logic in my mind points me to factory style primer, paint and rubber coating to protect.

I guess I just was hoping there was someone that has built hotrods or something for years that could weigh in. (I do appreciate the links and pics from everyone!)

This is a 100% stripper down car that has nothing but time. What would you do to refresh the floor in my situation?

Firebat

iTrader: (7)

The rubberdized undercoating in a spray can caused rust for me. I believe I went with the Rustoleum brand. I patched up a section in the spare tire well and its rusted about 8 years later. My car has been sitting since then, always garaged, never driven. The stuff is messy too if you ever want to remove it. I would not recommend.

Rustoleum truck bed coating would have been better but its really just thick paint. I rolled on my bedliner on my truck using rustoleum.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

POR-15 is Paint Over Rust.
It is not meant to be applied over paint or any other coating.
I have used it in the past.
This summer, I will be removing my truck bed to sandblast what is
left of the frame, replace and beef up what is gone, and POR-15
directly to the bare metal. Then undercoat. Then FluidFilm the rest.

You just do not want to apply it to loose, crumbly rust.
Mechanically remove as much as you can, neutralize the rest, and coat.
Then you can undercoat over that.

Also, once you open the POR-15 can, try to use it all.
If you reseal the can, the slightest drop on the edge of the can
will weld that cover on overnight and you have to practically destroy
the can to get it open again. The stuff is tough.
If you have less than a half a can left, you must use it in a few days
because the air in the rest of the can will harden it into a solid block.
I have prolonged this happening by displacing the air in the can with
argon gas or even propane. Just get anything else in that can other than air.

As I type this, what about using that new product we see on TV, FlexSeal.
I bet that is exactly what you are looking for.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Hi NoEmission - Thanks for the input.

I am definitely not looking to use the "As seen on TV" stuff.

I have used POR-15 for 15 years on my car is various states. All with only 2 quarts. I had excellent results with resealing the cans, no special gas either and the stuff stayed liquid for literally 1.5 years with only 1/2 left. Might be the weather conditions I was using it was different than yours??? not sure... Either way, I used that stuff a lot, followed the instructions to the tee as well. Any areas that I didn't scuff enough, it did flake off. Of course. 100% my fault.

Looking to find out what PRO shops due that build nice cars. For example the DSE third gen build called 2.0 is going on right now. They blasted the entire car, then epoxy prime the entire thing, then will prime the entire thing, followed by paint. Just not sure what they will do after that.

That is a model I want to follow.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Bump to this now old post I made.

I still don't have a clear answer/path for my build.

Eastwood now has something called Platinum rust encapsulator. Supposed to be their strongest stuff yet, but it is made to only paint over rust. Ugh....

One other avenue that I learned about was DSE told me they used U-POL truck bed liner in the wheel wells of their build. GREAT. Finally a lead.

Looks like they just painted the underside and cleared it as far as I can tell. More questions for DSE.

I talked to U-POL applications guy and he told me that I can use the product over the entire floor as an under body coating. I can even custom tint it to match the top of the car. (Going to be some kind of Audi or Mazda white).

I figure if this stuff is good enough for DSE to use on their wheel wells, it might be a good route to take for my entire floor board, inside and out. Do the floors in white and then to the wheel wells in black.

If anyone else has any other ideas of what a good route to take here is, please chime in. Thanks!

redmaroz

iTrader: (4)

So with mine I stripped the underside, and sprayed it with primer then use standard undercoating for the bottom of the floors and the wheel wells. For the interior i did the same except I used lizardskin noise dampening and heat barrier. and i really like the way it turned out. But im also not going for a full blown show car, just a nice go and play car. You can see what the lizardskin looks like in the interior on my build thread post #74 https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ls-swap-2.html I need to add more pics, but the 3rd picture down you can see what the undercoating looks like. Hope that helps some.

Jay

WTR388

My diff leaks a bit at the input seal, sprays a fine bit of oil over the rear half of the car... Zero rust.

Seriously, if you have no rust, take it to a shop that offers something like krown rust proofing and have them spray it. I'll be doing that this fall when they have their promotions, even though the car will never ever see another winter outside the garage, or even a bit of rain if I can prevent it.

When I got my new pans, I did 2k epoxy primer then rubber rocker guard. The epoxy seals the metal, the rocker guard protects the epoxy.

T.L.

POR15 is superior to Eastwood products. I have used both so I know this to be fact.
I have used 3 Eastwood products and all 3 of them sucked. I'm sure they make some
good products, but strike three and you're OUT.

To prevent rusty floors in the future, 1: don't drive the car in snow in places that salt the roads, and 2: don't have T-Tops.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I should add, this is going to be a show car that I drive when it is nice out. No rain or snow. Car is currently on my rotisserie at home so I have full access. Purpose of build is that I want to do all the work, so taking it somewhere is out.

So far I have used Eastwood epoxy primer on my front clip about a year ago and it looks great. I got all areas down to metal. This is what I plan for the rest of the car underside. I have asked DSE what they did, chances are I will follow them. I want to stay away from robbery stuff as I want the underside white like the top.