BRM73

Hey, everyone. Just signed up here, loving what i've seen so far. You really interact well. This weekend I bought an '88 IROC Camaro off of Craigslist. It has a TPI 305, 700R4, and a 2.73 posi rear. One problem though - It had been rear ended and totaled by the seller's insurance company. Still, it runs and drives and has WELD Race rims on it, and I only paid 500 bucks for it. I have some work to do on the rear, I'll probably end up rear-clipping it if I can find all of the parts. Will update soon - Stay tuned.

rgauder

iTrader: (1)

Good luck with the new project. Any pictures of the damage?

BRM73

Thanks. It's fairly extensive... Needs new quarters, (possible) driver door, rear bumper, and need to bash out rear body.

pwessels

That might be a better parts donor at this point than a fixer if you can find another clean shell to start with. It looks like the rear tub could be pretty bent - hard to really tell from just a couple pics. Just my 2 cents though.

BRM73

That's not really an option... It has potential and it's my first running and driving car. What you said might be true, but since it's a real IROC, I'll have fun with it and watch the value go up. Thanks though!

BRM73

I painted a couple of trim pieces - The WELDs being the bulk. Tomorrow or Thursday I'm bashing fenders. I'll take pictures. The fenders don't rub very badly on the tires, it drives fine. Not too much ahead. I'm currently deciding to either take it to a body shop or fix it at home. Stay tuned

1986 iroc z28

noticed your in indy, im only 2.5hrs from you and i can make you a killer deal on a 88 iroc. Its missing all of the interior and front clip/doors, but it has a fairly clean and more importantly, a straight rear end. Its a real iroc and it runs/moves.

Citation X

Good luck on your project and welcome to TGO.

tealman92

Ill tune in.

Tootie Pang

iTrader: (2)

"Turd Gen" - that's good.

Welcome!

That car really got whacked good. Otherwise looks good. $500 is a great deal IMHO.

BRM73

I would totally go for that... If I could just take the engine/trans and the rear clip... I'm very limited on space. I'm a student and using one bay of my garage, LOL. Give me more details, I like the sound of it. If I can sucker my father from MN into taking the whole shell then that would be great I don't have the space here in Indy. He wants to get a project car too I'll just steal it for parts

tealman92

You would be better off swaping all your good parts to his chassis. Less work and a solid foundation. These cars are weak. Start with a solid chassis and go from there.

1986 iroc z28

well, its a parts car of mine. The driveline is solid. The rear lower 1/4s will need some love and the drivers side front floor board needs a patch. i have a good set of iroc tailights for it and i do have both of the rear lower gfx pieces for it. But it does run and move and i do have the title for it. 200 bucks its yours.

1986 iroc z28

If i were you id just take the front clip and interior of your car and put it on mine and have a decent car.

phasevariance

I see a quarter panel and a door replacement right off the bat. And the rear oouch. That would have to be an effort of true love to bring it back. Yes it can be done with the right skillset But there is still a paper mess on top of it (R title).

BRM73

Wow! You drive a hard bargain. I might have to take you up on that offer. I'll let you know. I ripped the rear bumper off and found the the body subframe is caved in a couple inches, and that's the bulk of it. This weekend I'll take a shot at it and see what comes of my efforts. I'll realistically probably buy your car and take the rear from it, switch it to mine, then take what'a left of a front clip of a Camaro in MN and put it on your car with my rear clip. Frankenstein much? Then I'll have two running and driving Camaros 💯💯
Thanks so much for the offer! It's guys like you that keep the homebuilt stuff alive!

BRM73

It actually has no paperwork flaws at all... I signed it off and had it notarized and on paper, the accident never happened. P/O took the check and stored the car beforehand to keep from them salvaging it. All that accident BS is still with the seller's insurance company (Thank GOD)

BRM73

Picture files corrupted - Sorry. I'll retake them to post later today. But I did rip the rear tail bezels and the rear bumper out. I looked and the subframe of the rear is caved in about 2 inches, as previously stated. Not too bad. I'll use my heat gun and re heat-set the fiberglass of the rear bumper. I have it straightened, I just have to set it. I'll take my stud gun and pop the rear out. I'll maybe just take a chain, wrap it around it, then wrap the other end around a tree and floor it *cough* *hack* and ease into it until it moves a couple inches. Take a block of wood and beat it until it's flat. Use the stud gun on the rear and I might be okay. Thoughts?

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

The problems may still lie further forward in the car. As that energy travels forward long those rear rails, and gets to the center of the car where there are no subframes, the floors can buckle.

Look at this thread. A lot of good examples / photos of where the energy went, where the hidden damage was, and what it takes to set it right.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...-firebird.html

If you can avoid a TON of work and future headaches by buying a $200 donor car that you can swap your good parts on to...you would be MILES ahead.

BRM73

Hey guys! Sorry I've been offline for awhile, this week was finals week at my school. Today I got some body work done. When I bought the car, the passenger door wouldn't open it shut from it's awkward position. I took a hand cable winch and pulled that fender off the tire, which also allowed the door to... Voila! Open and shut normally. Budget body work 101 here folks:

BRM73

Update: In process of removing all smog equipment (waiting on idler pulley to take pump's place), have rerouted cooling hoses. There were hoses connected to the throttle body, and I suppose that's for preventing it from icing up? Correct me if I'm wrong. I just cut them and plugged the holes, seems the TB is a lot cooler now after running. Probably enough to affect ambient air temp. There were about five disconnected vacuum lines (having cracked and came off) and I'm surprised it ran so well. I plugged them, it's all good. I just pulled the rear enough to stop them from running the tires. I'm searching for a rear clip as of right now. In the winter months, I'm planning to have the entire car repainted back to its original white color. Then I'all have a forest green wrap and use that to protect it for a few years until I actually restore this car. Any suggestions/tips on smog removal?

BRM73

Sorry I haven't posted in a while. Finishing school, family stuff most of the summer. Been a rough summer. Anyway... Finished smog delete... Onto my next project. I flushed the nasty Dex mix out of my cooling system... Flushing water through now. Bypassed heater core for now. Replaced/plugged lots of faulty vacuum lines/connections and now it idles much smoother. I did the TB coolant bypass mod while I was at it. I'd like more suggestions for new projects to take on! Bring me some suggestions

BRM73

Hey, everyone. Lots of stuff going on... Ported all pieces of intake, bypassed EGR, making exhaust. Just ordered a cam for it. Will go junkyard hunting for Vortec 305 heads. I need a tune... I did some research and thought this cam would be right for me with some tuning: https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mel-22280 It's a Melling 22280 with the following specs: .495/.502" lift//220/224* of duration @ .050" lift. A tight 110* LSA, but I've heard of people running the 107* Thumpr grind from COMP without major issues. How should I go about tuning it? Custom PROM?

dbrochard

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't waste your time or money getting performance parts to make that car go fast right now... You have a ton of work to do fixing the back half of that car, if you are set on keeping it. I doubt you are much older than I am and you probably are on a similar budget as I was when I fixed up my first car, starting a few years ago. I welded new patches all over my car to fix rust, and did a lot of body work on small dents. I have an abandoned build thread you can look at to see that. But if I could do it all over again, I would have gotten another car. Would have saved so much time and money. You car's body is way way worse than mine was however. You got a great deal on a parts car, but I really think the best move would be to transplant your cars drivetrain and interior into a straight, rust free shell. But if anything, do not go buying go-fast goodies for this car. Fix whats actually broken first