dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I am stripping my entire car down to steel and undercoating it on a rotisserie.

Once I get a certain area down to steel, I am applying two coats of Eastwood epoxy primer.

Under the car will then be U-POL tintable truck bedliner. Black in the wheel wells.

For the color of the car I would like to use 2018 Audi White ( I have seen A3 and A4 with this color).

How do I make sure that when I order paint, it is compatible with the Eastwood Epoxy primer?

On the body I am going to do my best to smooth it out by applying some coats of urethane primer surfacer and blocking the car.

I was thinking I would use Eastwood clear as well.

Basically I don't like any of the white colors that Eastwood sells so I need to source my own but don't want anything to get messed up in the process.

I am not a pro painter, not even a hobby painter. I am only doing this for this one build so I don't have any "industry" knowledge on the subject, just what I read on here and elsewhere online.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

T.L.

I'm sure the people at Eastwood could tell you.
Epoxy primer is not really primer. It's a sealer. You still need to prime before you paint...

ZsTransAm

I would be hesitant to mix and match products. Contact Eastwood before you do. Also find out if whatever primer you use is an etching primer. Some primers are made to be put directly over metal and some are not. If its not, you'll need to put on an etch primer over the bare metal before you use a primer surfacer.

Billgluckman

I highly doubt you’ll have any problems mixing brands. My engine bay I painted is summit epoxy-Napas Martin senour surfacer-Napas base and clear. No issue.

naf

iTrader: (7)

second using a primer surfacer over the epoxy.

find a local paint store and go by their recommendation for primer, base and clear.

BadHabit

iTrader: (1)

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Clear coat is one place I would not skimp on. My prior Camaro I repainted in Arctic white in 2007 and I used the DuPont Nason line. In 2016 I painted my current Camaro in Arctic White but I used DuPont's Chroma Premier line. I switched because the White from the Nason line had Yellowed. It was undetectible until you held up one of my newly painted panels and held it against the old panel. You could tell they were two different shades. The Chroma Premier line contains more UV stabilizers and solids. This means that it takes less coats of color to cover a panel and fewer layers of clear to build up a nice clear coat. My experience was that the Nason line also ran and sagged more. I'm assuming the other brands of paint that offer different lines of clear are the same. I'd really urge you look into a vendor that has different lines so you can use cheaper primers or maybe even colors and then shell out the money for their good clear coat that you know will be compatible. House of Kolor is also a good middle of the line choice.

86CamaroDan

I picked my fathers brain about this the other day. I will be using the eastwood epoxy primer myself. He said eastwood doesnt have a great rep for clear/base coat apparently and wants me to go with dupont/ppg base and clear. He says mixing eastwood primer with ppg/dupont base should be fine. Hes done about a dozen cars sofar

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

All great advice here. Thanks everyone.

Since I plan on Audi white, eastwood colors are out. So their clears might as well be too.

I will use top of the line clear for sure. Damn the expense!

Might stick to PPG color and clear. I seem to hear their name a lot.

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)

I am a firm believer in staying with one brand for all products (primers, base, clear) and following the manufacturer's instructions. They are designed to work together. Eastwood epoxy primer may or may not bond correctly with PPG topcoats. It just too much of your labor and material cost at risk. PPG epoxy primer isn't that expensive compared to Eastwood.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Understood. I already have a gallon of epoxy primer from eastwood. I will use it for the underside of the body. It is on a rottissery now.

when I get to the top, I will buy PPG.

86CamaroDan

Your probably right, Its best to stay with all one brand, but thats not to say it cant be done. Evercoat has some nice filler and primer but doesnt offer base paint. Does it mean that evercoat can never be used under anyones base coat? no.

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)

Yes, of course. Evercoat is an excellent filler and I have used it under R-M epoxy primer/sealer. My point was not an "always" or "never" type situation, just that it's best to stay with a single brand when you can, therefore it removes the question about compatibility. In the case of the OP using Eastwood epoxy primer, as long as it is fully cured before filler, buildup primer and topcoat, it should be fine.

I have sometimes used the epoxy over bare metal for a primer/sealer and then followed up later that day or the next day with basecoat or single stage color after the epoxy kicked but wasn't fully cured (within about 12-24 hours). This gives a chemical bond between the epoxy and basecoat and in that case, I would only use products of the same brand that are designed to be applied this way. I did this for the underside and engine bay where I wasn't doing any bodywork and not block sanding so I wouldn't have to sand the cured epoxy primer before topcoating.

86CamaroDan

I would 100% agree with you in using same products if your looking for a good chemical bond in that case.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The example that talked about adhesion with the comparison of brands involving Evercoat filler products and some other brand paint isn't accurate. The bond between fillers and paints is a mechanical bond, you have to sand it to a certain grit so the paint has enough tooth to hold onto. Keeping that in mind, you could mix and match any brand of paint if you are willing to let it cure and sand it to the appropriate grit. That's why you can lightly sand a factory paint job and spray new color over. You want to stick to the same brands because if you are going to spray a sealer, let it flash, spray a color, let it flash and spray clear you want to know for a fact that the base won't melt into the sealer or lift off in a short time. Basically you are trying to avoid causing anything that might require you to sand it off and respray.

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)