supermariobros

Which is better? what are the pros and cons of each set up. I hear the lt brakes are alot easier to install but the ls are better?

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

The LS1 brake rotors are thicker so they would dissipate heat better. The LT1 brakes should be cheaper and depending on what brakes you put on the front might be all you really need.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

The "LT1 brakes" are just PBR calipers like the 89-92s....Nothing really special.

LS1 are biger & better all around. 'Nuff said!

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Under normal driving conditions, I doubt that the difference would be huge--but, hey, they are brakes! As for installation, both systems would require the same approach. To provide an idea of what that requires, you might check the following link (post #7 details the procedure for yanking the axles):

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...iscs-89-a.html

By the way, Ed Miller makes a kits for both the above, IIRC, to include the LS1 brake cable. The site will give you an idea of cost between the two systems, at the very least:

http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/c1_p6.html

JamesC

DeathMetalTony

Now this is a must subscribe thread so when i'm ready for my convertion im ready to go.

Tony.

supermariobros

Well I'll post up when I'm done with the swap

DeathMetalTony

Thanks. Tony.

supermariobros

well the deal fell through so I'm just gonna wait till I can just buy a wrecked ls1 4th gen and do the swap then.

lonesomeloser

Off topic question: is it worth upgrading to the pre 88 disc rear or find a post 88 disc rear? Were there any problems with the pre 88 disc setups?

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

I've heard complaints about the calipers no even stopping the wheels at idle, with the car jacked up off the ground.

Mine.....I have no complaints, other than they look tiny under my 17" Snypers. Mine WORK. Not only do they start the wheels at idle, I've locked them up at 70 mph, dodging (unsuccessfully) a deer on the road.

But I still want bigger rotors, just so they don't look so tiny behind my 17" wheels.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The 82-88 Delco-Moraine calipers have a bad reputation on TGO, but frankly, I think the reputation isn't particularly merited. There was a recall on these discs, e-brake problem, but with the recall kit and/or recently rebuilt calipers in place, along with frequent use of the e-brake, I think they're fine (I used them for a number of years before I upgraded to PBR's). However, are there better brakes out there? You bet.

Here's the recall:

http://members.shaw.ca/crussel/recalls/86c28/86c28.html

JamesC

supermariobros

swaps back on Guy just wanted to get rid of it, and I got a complete rear end for 40bucks, it wines but I dont care I'm just gonna take the brake set up

DeathMetalTony

Thats good to hear man. Make sure you take some pics for the rest of us.

Tony.

supermariobros

Yeah for sure, thats why I posted up but I think its going to be easy

Al Hasse

I like the parking brake setup on the LS1 brakes. I converted from another disc setup so I didn't need to modify my axle flanges, the backing plates bolted right up. Two things I had to do special, 1) I had to have some flex lines made because the 4th gen lines are a bit long for a 3rd gen rear and would end up with a funky bend, and 2) I aquired the entire parking brake setup for a 4th gen car, from handle to rear cables to include the tunnel bracket.

supermariobros

*******************Update*********************

Alright so I already have the rear disc's on the car all I have to do is swap over the brake lines and figure out the ebrake cable, not worried about it at all. The swap was CAKE, I found the easiest way to center the backing plate is to drill out the holes where the original backing plate bolts up with a drill bit that matches the size of the new backing plate holes and then bolt up the new backing plate and your done! It comes out perfectly centered and they it looks factory. Monday I'm gonna finish it up and post some pix of the end result

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I was going to point out that the LS1 brakes use an E-brake setup unique to LS1 cars. They wont work in a thirdgen without welding some bracketry on. If you can do that it's not a big deal, though.

Al Hasse

The rear brackets on the lower control arms are LS1 unique and bolt on the the LCA mounts. The tunnel bracket is common to all 4th gen cars (or so I've been told) and can be bolted or welded in place after grinding off the front of the current bracket like I did for mine. I bolted mine in with the intent of welding it later, it's still just bolted in.

Here's my whole job

http://cascadecrew.org/phpBB2/viewto...light=ls1+rear

supermariobros

Brakes are all done drove it yesterday, I used the ls1 brakes lines. They bolted right up, I took the lines off for the "t" joint, I'm still working out the ebrake issue, and I'm gonna swap out the proportional valve too. I think ,for the ebrake, I'm going to use 90-92 cable but I'm gonna call hawks on monday and see what they suggest.

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

odd reads here for me since ive been through this swap

1. The brake lines were not long at all for me and i run a thirdgen width rear end, and the 4th gen hard lines directly bolt to your body line... no adapter needed.

2. I used a factory thirdgen ebrake lever and front cables, and used STOCK lsx fbody cables from the adjusters to the backing plates. THE ONLY thing i had to do was elongate the hole just a touch for the bigger arm to slide through it.
Of course i mean factory disc cables from my existing setup. I dont know whats so special about the conversion cables... havent looked at it seriously when my stuff worked.

my ebrake works just fine. and is mounted back like it was when it had the pbr 10 bolt and aluminum calipers on it

supermariobros

Kool I'm actually gonna try this since I have a shop I can try it and return them if they dont work

camaromike222

FYI, if any of you are thinking of installing relocation brackets in the future, I believe you will have to cut and mod your e-brake brackets that bolts to your LCA mounts (so say the instructions for the UMI bolt in relo brackets). I'm not sure if this is true for the weld in brackets, but this is what I saw on the instruction sheet.

supermariobros

well I just decided to bite the bullet and I bought the custom ebrake cables and proportional valve both from hawks, so far this conversion has cost me 270.

LarryL

Next week I'm starting the install of c5 disc all around on my 84 TA. I did not want the ebrake working off the caliper. Thats why I went with the c5 setup. My car has 4 wheel factory disc they stop, but not really great. I hate the ebrake setup. c5 setup has a mini drum builtin to rotor and Ebrake shoes in the backing plate. The Ecables can go on either f or r of backing plate. Makes for easy install. Draw back is more money for this setup. I have 18" wheels all around so no clearance problems.

Dark Ember

Looks like the post I just made could have been better placed here as a question. So when you swap out a set of 98-02 F-body brakes on the 3rd gen with rear disc, you need to do the following:?

1. Redrill the caliper mount bracket holes to fit the 3rd gen axle.

2. Reattach the 98-02 parking brake cables to the 3rd gen cable assembly, whcih requires elongation of the holes?

3. Swap out rotors, calipers and pads.

Am I missing anything?

LarryL

I did not have to drill anything out. I removed my old setup, removed axles, and back plate. Installed new studs, c5 backplate w/edmiller kit, reinstalled axels,bolted abutment brackets on, bolted loaded caliper (c5) on to abutment bracket, attached brake lines (direct fit) I had changed to new braided SS lines several months ago, I also replaced the steel lines at the same time. Mount rotor, bleed brakes (I installed self bleeders).

supermariobros

*************update****************
I finally finished everything, the hawks ebrake cables work good, but are alittle short and the changing out the prop valve made a big difference. I post pix monday.

megaspl

ok.. so does it matter if i get a ls or lt rear end if i plan on upgrading the brakes on it anyways? and what are the best ones.. i plan on gettin the ebmiller ctsv 14" for the front but dont know what to put on the rear yet