Cooter77

Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valves 260-11179

The only line i'll have to re-flare is the big one on the bottom for Rear line. Mine was a M14x1.5 and I could not find a way to get that to what I need.
I found a M12x1.0 Bubble that was also 6mm line size.

Master cylinder sizes
Front: 11x1.5mm
Rear: 12x1.0mm

Factory Proportioning valve sizes:
Front: 10x1.0mm
Front: 10x1.0mm
Rear: 14x1.5mm

I'll follow up with install pics.

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

Awesome! I always had plans on putting it in the wheel well to clean up the bay more

mjdavis68

iTrader: (1)

Is it adjustable like the ones on a NASCAR Cup Car? If so plumb it inside the car like the cup cars so you could do some awesome burnouts??

TennesseeIroc-Z

iTrader: (7)

Are you going to mount yours in place of or in front of your existing prop valve?

I'm needing to do the exact same thing, but was wondering about just removing the factory prop valve.

Slush92RS

iTrader: (6)

Where did you find those adapter hard lines and unions at? Im doing the manual brake master cylinder conversion and was needing to do some plumbing too.

Cooter77

Autozone... you can take any of those part numbers and any parts store can do a cross.

Cooter77

I removed the oem prop valve.

Slush92RS

iTrader: (6)

I thought the line going to the rear brakes was a bigger diameter than what is going to the 2 front lines? Would there be any difference in braking if I switched to 3/16 going to my rear end? I'm having a really hard time finding adapters for that 6mm rear brake tube, and would like to get those adapter lines pictured above. I think the metric rear line is closer to1/4" IIRC.

Cooter77

Those metric adapters should be at any of the common parts stores. Look at the pic I posted for the part numbers. You can order them online if you can't find them locally. And they have cross reference part numbers at each store if need be. If there is nothing wrong with your rear line I wouldn't replace it. To much work.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I don't think your adapter lines for front brakes will work. The front brake lines have M10-1.5 nuts with metric bubble flares. The adapters you chose are Asian style M10-1.5 nuts with SAE inverted flare. Not compatible types.

Cooter77

That may be true...

The parts i used adapted just fine with no leaks. I have raced the car in autocross and road coarse right after the mod with very very hard braking and no problems or leaks. I have also been driving car all over town and no problems or leaks.

Believe me, I checked... Brakes are something you don't want to loose while approaching a corner with a brick wall at the turn.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Where dat? What's the name of the racetrack?

Bad AZz Z28

Ever take the install pics?

What did you do about the stock pressure switch?

Cooter77

I hooded up the 2 wires with my 1 wire and it is not right. When I push the brakes the "Brake" light comes on. I've not done anything yet to fix it. I just assume if the light don't come on then there is a problem... I will fix it in time, unless somebody already knows the answer.

Cooter77

Here are some install pics. Keep in mind I am not trying to win any shows. I did another autocross this weekend and again no brake leaks.

FYI: The wire is to keep my plug wires away from headers. Been like that for 15 years.

Cooter77

A few more pics.

Cooter77

Memphis... The RoadCoarse has a 90 turn into the staging area for drag track... There are tires there but a nice wall behind it...

Little Promotional Pitch:
There has been a National F-body event here the past 3 years. Road Course, AutoCross and DragRace.. It is a blast and everybody is really good time. IMO it is better than Atlanta becuse you hang out and have fun in your car.
http://www.fbodyevent.org/
https://www.facebook.com/NFMERACING#!/NFMERACING

RBob

iTrader: (1)

I may be incorrect, but I thought that the switch on the Wilwood prop valve was for the rear brake lights. It isn't a differential switch such as on our stock combo valves.

RBob.

TallTim

iTrader: (2)

Calling up an old thread I know but agree with QwkTrip, on my 89 all three pipes leaving the prop valve are bubble flare. I bought the parts Cooter suggests but the nuts for the fronts will not thread more than a turn or two into into the BLU-9C double female (which is inverted flare).

I'm also changing out the MC for a strange unit and and removing the vac canister too to make space for 3" exhaust.

Will post back what I finally do.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

These are the fittings I used. Still having some trouble with slow leaks only at the Wilwood prop valve.
Not enough to make me stop driving but enough to be annoying. I think the tube nuts are bottoming before sealing (meaning the Wilwood inserts aren't formed right), I plan to grind down the tube nuts a bit sometime in the future.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post6083021

Beater79TA

If you are looking for adapters for the body lines, Edelmann Plews makes the following:
PN 262010 10x1 metric bubble to 3/8x24 inverted flare adapter. You need 2 of these for the front brake lines.
PN: 262015 14x1.5 metric bubble to 3/8x24 inverted flare adapter. You need 1 of these for the rear brake line.

These fittings match up to the factory fitting sizes I've found online for our 1988 GTA. I'm going to use these for the body lines out of the prop valve and use the adapter lines listed in the first post above to go from the master cylinder to the prop valve. I haven't installed these yet but will be test fitting all the adapter fittings this weekend for fit and depth to seal. Then when I pull the master cylinder and prop valve out of the car, I can test fit to the brake lines.

Cooter77

Good deal..!! I wish i would have seen those adapters back in 2014. It looks like a generic picture on there website. Please, post some pics of all your parts -like it did- before installation and after.

I still have not had any issues, leaks or anything with the setup I did 3 years ago so I am not going to touch mine.

Beater79TA

I fully agree with the concept of "if it aint broke don't mess with it" and not changing yours.

I want to chase the threads on the fittings and measure for engagement depth to make sure they aren't going to leak before taking pictures but once that is done, I'll try to remember to do a writeup with some pictures. The specs say these pieces should work but we'll see how well they actually fit.

TallTim

iTrader: (2)

Beater do you know if that #262015 is for a 6mm line? I don't see on their website that it is or not

http://www.plews-edelmann.com/adapte...andard-262015/

I think it matters right?

Beater79TA

None of the listed fittings mention tube size on the Edelmann website. You would thread this on to the prop valve and then thread the existing brake line and fitting into this adapter. With these you don't cut any lines to flare new connectors on. The fluid opening size should be close enough to not be an issue. If I get a chance I can try to mic both to see how close they are to matching the tube sizes.

TallTim

iTrader: (2)

I'm not clear using a 262015 to adapt between the factory 6mm rear pipe with 14mx1.5 bubble flare nut into the rear out port 3/8-24 double flare in the 260-11179 will work b/c the 262015 has that neck for bubble flare but the PV is double flare in the rear out port.

I've found the other parts locally so I'm down to deciding if I have to cut the rear pipe and reflare. But I'm stuck on that 6mm size nut so thanks for working thru this.

Maybe I'm missing something tho...

Beater79TA

Since the tube doesn't go through the Edelmann adapter, I'm not sure what your concern is about the 6mm tube. The factory tube and nut thread into the adapter with the tube bottoming out inside the adapter on the metric bubble end of the adapter. The adapter then threads into the 3/8x24 inverted flare port on the prop valve. The tube never touches the prop valve. My concern is, is the adapter tall enough to bottom out in the prop valve and seal for no leaks. I need to get a little more info from Wilwood to measure for that.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

If you flare a 6 mm line then you need a tube nut for 6 mm line. A 1/4" line is a little bit larger diameter and you can use tube nuts for 1/4" lines, or drill out the 6 mm tube nut and use it again with the 1/4" line. Unfortunately, the 6 mm line is a little too small to make it flare properly with common tube nuts for 1/4" line. This is why most people change over to 1/4" line when they redo rear brake lines.

But as Beater79TA points out, adapters screw onto the existing fittings and don't require redoing the original brake lines (other then bending). The parts I posted do require you to make new brake lines and do your own flares, which can turn out to be a PITA.

TallTim

iTrader: (2)

OK Beater so what I'm getting is that you will put that 262015 adapter with the neck designed for bubble flare into the inverted flare end of the rear out port on the Wilwood PV and hope it does not leak. I did not think you could get away with forcing different seats against each other or if the seats don't meet would the threads not leak.

I'm circling back around to post #1 and doing what cooter says. Just have to practice a couple bubble flares before doing the real thing. Thanks for lining that up cooter.

Beater79TA

One side of the adapter is metric bubble. That end screws on to the factory line allowing it to seal. The other end is 3/8 x 24 inverted flare to fit the opening on the prop valve. The flares match for the position they are supposed to be in. Metric bubble to metric bubble and inverted flare to inverted flare.

I'm still not certain what your concern is with the adapter. The flare types match. The sizes are correct for the hard line and the prop valve.

Now that I know the fitting needs to be 0.300 inches tall on the threaded side to seal into the prop valve I'm ready to take some measurements and test fit the adapters.

TallTim

iTrader: (2)

My build at

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ml#post6148885

post #102 has the final results of what I went with.

Thanks again for all the feedback!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I am experiencing the same problem but with a plain jane Wilwood brand adjustable proportioning valve. I think my unit was threaded too far in for the adapters supplied. I'm just switching to another brand rather than deal with this.

Aviator857

I ordered a 262015 blindly to use with my willwood prop valve and it appears to be the inverse of what I need... the female matches the female port on the prop valve... maybe they sent me the wrong part, the one I ordered from summit was back ordered so I bought this one on ebay...

**Edit** looks like they sent me a 262000

Aviator857

so where can you buy 262015 I can't seem to find it anywhere... ordered from summit a month ago and they keep moving the ship date back.

hessm70

I am going to resurrect this thread in hopes to gain some information. I am installing a Willwood proportioning valve and followed this thread to get the following adaptors for the outlnes. I ordered them from Summit.

PN 262010 10x1 metric bubble to 3/8x24 inverted flare adapter. You need 2 of these for the front brake lines. (Backorder)
PN: 262015 14x1.5 metric bubble to 3/8x24 inverted flare adapter. You need 1 of these for the rear brake line. (Delivered)

Is there other options for shorter lines out of the Master cylinder- 8" listed for PAA-Y311 and PAA-B312? I suppose cut them shorter and flare them.