Mounting amp
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Laurel, MS
Car: 1989 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700-R4
Mounting amp
I have a 1989 Camaro Iroc-z. I just bought a Jensen A600HLX 600w amp. The dimensions are 3" x 11.125" x 13". Does anyone have an idea on where I could mount my amp??
Thanks,
Kyle
Thanks,
Kyle
Last edited by kylem; Jan 27, 2003 at 04:11 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 61
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From: Laurel, MS
Car: 1989 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700-R4
wont fit in the drivers side compartment, or in the spare tire compartment......and im not so sure if it is small enough to fit in the well
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From: Gurnee, IL
Car: '86 IROC
Engine: 305 LG4 awaiting the crate Vortec 350
Transmission: 700R4
well ur supposed to take the tire and jack out (thats what AAA is for
) and i think its a really good idea to devote some time and some effort into putting it in the back seats. check out the tech article on it- it tells u everything u need to know. i know that when it comes time for me to make this decision, my amp's goin in the back seat!
) and i think its a really good idea to devote some time and some effort into putting it in the back seats. check out the tech article on it- it tells u everything u need to know. i know that when it comes time for me to make this decision, my amp's goin in the back seat! Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 61
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From: Laurel, MS
Car: 1989 Camaro Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700-R4
well i dont know bout that back seat deal, it will come in handy sometime....any ideas on how i could mount it behind the seat or in the well?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,175
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From: Here and There, Kansas
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L V-6
Transmission: T-5
I put mine on my box. You could put it on the hump right behind the seats by applying a piece of velcro (the rough side) to the sides of the amp and it wont move. Or you could build your box so it doesnt touch the bottom of the well and mount the amp at the bottom of the well and set the sub box over the top...just be sure to get some ventalation down there....or, an idea ive had, but havent tryed, is UNDER one of the back seat buckets, dont know how well it would work so I havent messed with it at all. It would take some modification to do as well.
Here are some pics of mine mounted on my box, and one of it mounted in my well before I built the new box. It was mounted to the side of the well actually...


Hope this helps!
Here are some pics of mine mounted on my box, and one of it mounted in my well before I built the new box. It was mounted to the side of the well actually...


Hope this helps!
i just about finished mounting my amps in my back seat. total with wiring it all up it took me about5-6 hours. all i have left to do is buy the plexiglass and get my fans hooked up. since ihave a convertible and 3 amps with a box that takes up the whole well i ran out of places to put em. so i put em in the seat
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Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: sbc 400
Transmission: th350
i did the rear seat thing too. two amps inside facing back, plexi showing off the good stuff. no fans yet, but havent had any problems yet with heat. although it is a good idea. looks pretty good, just need to do some touching up visually. and cant even tell its there when the seat is up.
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,734
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From: Westminster, MD
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I recommend against mounting an amp to the box. Two problems with that. One is that if someone tries to steel your setup all they have to do is use a big cutter though the wires and they can carry away your amp and subs and box at one time. Thieves look for cars like this. Two is that all that vibration isn’t good for the amp. Almost every amp I see with bad solder connections is ether vary vary old, or newer and was mounted to a box. Most people will getaway with it, but it can and probably will cut short the life or the amp. So that amp that worked great for 4 years may have worked for 10 if it wasn’t mounted to the box.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I put my amp on the hump and hid the wires under the carpet, it's secured with velcro. Although it's not hidden i really like the way it looks right there.
It looks like it's just sitting on it but all the wires are connected.
I didn't have a chance to carpet the box yet but am going to try and get to it today.
It looks like it's just sitting on it but all the wires are connected.
I didn't have a chance to carpet the box yet but am going to try and get to it today.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,070
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Well, may be boring over-simplified, but I like it. I have mine mounted up against the wall in my trunk space thingy(?!). Got some screws that were about 1/3" long, and screwed it right into the carpet. Doesn't puncture into the gas tank and it is ON TIGHT. Easy to adjust the levels too...
Bruce (90RS305)
Bruce (90RS305)
3gc i dont understand why you put your amp where you did it looks like it would fit fine in between your subs on the actual box...thats what i did and it allows me to still store my t-tops and if you dont have t-tops you can still store other stuff in that spot. i wasnt trying to criticize its just something to think about...
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I probably should have mounted the amp to the box but i didn't think about it until i already mounted my amp where it is. I just carpeted the box today.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 773
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From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am Vert
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Originally posted by 3gc
I probably should have mounted the amp to the box but i didn't think about it until i already mounted my amp where it is. I just carpeted the box today.
I probably should have mounted the amp to the box but i didn't think about it until i already mounted my amp where it is. I just carpeted the box today.
how do you store your t-tops?
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 917
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From: Long Island NY
Car: Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I actually haven't taked the tops off since I installed the subs but i have the t-top bag folded up behind my drivers seat and when i take them off i'm just going to put them in the bag and put the bag on the back seat.
i just put mine in the normal spot and pull them tight enough so that they arent sitting on top of the subs...they take away some of the sound of the bass but dont make them rattle like you would think.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Me and a friend built it using the plans from subenclosures.com. It would have cost about $200 to buy, but only cost about $50 to make. Here's some pictures of the process.


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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 773
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From: Raleigh, NC
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am Vert
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.08
any chance that you have some blueprints or some dimensions that you would be willing to part with?
yea i did the same thing i built the box myself...im not gonna give you the dimensions just because i think you should spend the $8 and get them from subenclosures.com...it is well worth it and they are very complete. but if you dont want to pay the money, which i cant blame you, just run a search for the dimensions...ive seen dozens of posts on this board regarding that....i will say that the plans made it much easier though i did it in a weekend and it improved my sound a whole lot...it makes two of the crappiest 10" subs money can buy and a terrible amp knock like i would never believe.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
The kit from subenclosures.com is definately worth the money. It comes with pretty much everything you need except the MDF. The thing i like about it most is that the print out for the top plate is full size. If your subs are deap like mine are you will have to make baffels. I made a rectangle top plate, a baffle and then a regular top plate to lift it an inch and a half.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,070
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
They mail the stuff out to you? Maybe that would be worth it, I not too long ago tried to wing it with a measureing tape and ended up stocking up firewood for the winter. WAY WAY WAY too many angles and slopes back there....
What all is included? I'm too lazy to go check out the site...
Bruce (90RS305)
What all is included? I'm too lazy to go check out the site...

Bruce (90RS305)
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 917
Likes: 1
From: Long Island NY
Car: Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
They give you detalied cad drawings of each peice and assembly instructions. It also comes with all the screws, the terminals, a counter sunk drill bit, a philips drive bit, a calking gun and liquid nails to seal it up, you can also get carpet with it. You need to provide the MDF, drill, sawzal and circular saw (i highly suggest one that cuts angles) and that's about it.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 0
From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Originally posted by 3gc
They give you detalied cad drawings of each peice and assembly instructions. It also comes with all the screws, the terminals, a counter sunk drill bit, a philips drive bit, a calking gun and liquid nails to seal it up, you can also get carpet with it. You need to provide the MDF, drill, sawzal and circular saw (i highly suggest one that cuts angles) and that's about it.
They give you detalied cad drawings of each peice and assembly instructions. It also comes with all the screws, the terminals, a counter sunk drill bit, a philips drive bit, a calking gun and liquid nails to seal it up, you can also get carpet with it. You need to provide the MDF, drill, sawzal and circular saw (i highly suggest one that cuts angles) and that's about it.
Bruce (90RS305)
unfortunately, youre right. just the plans is $8. The kit that he was talking about is $25 plus shipping. either way, I think its a good deal because the only other thing you need to buy is the MDF which costs about 15 to 20 dollars, so you only need to spend about 50 total whereas you would spend at least $150 on a custom box otherwise.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,070
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Ahh ok thats what I thought. Still though, that is a good deal. Takes a lot of the guess work out of buying construction materials also. I may just do it, I definetly have the wood-working tools to make it...
Bruce (90RS305)
Bruce (90RS305)
i just made a rack for mine, and im probably gonna attach it to the bottom of my sub box when i get it done, so nobody knows its there. The subs are gonna be downfiring, and the top of the box will make my "trunk" level, so i can still use my t-tops. but you wont know theres subs, or amps in there
i wouldnt suggest mounting it to the bottom of your box...you will get some rattling and possibly could run into serious overheating problems unless you get a fan or something...but i dont know maybe you know what youre doing.
i had that exact amp....if you take the spare and jack out it will fit great.....buy 1 piece of mdf wood, cut it to be like 3 inches bigger on each side of the amp. now where the jack and spare connects, if you drill a few holes in that same brace and two other in the brace above the actual tire well...you can mount the board inside with the amp attached, the only pain in the butt thing is tha you have to take that piece of the interior out everytime when you want to tune the amp, but if you do the tunning before you actually mount it, you shouldnt have a problem with anything, when i get my digital cam out ill show you what i mean if you want more detail. looks really clean, no wires anywhere, you just see your subs
Last edited by peruvious; Oct 15, 2003 at 10:04 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,070
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From: Tempe, Arizona
Car: 96 Silverado/99 Suburban
Engine: 700 cubic inches of 'Muican Awesome
Transmission: 4L80/4L60
Axle/Gears: Chunky/Clunky
Originally posted by Barry85Iroc
Sub Box closed
Sub Box closed
Bruce (90RS305)
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 615
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From: Ogden, UT
Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
i did the amp in the seat guide on the tech section, it was pretty cool, would be easier if i had good wood, i used wood off an old desk
lol
lol Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 997
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From: Katy, TX
Car: 1985 IROC Z-28
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Originally posted by 90RS305
Thats a rather sweet setup you got there, are those 10"s or 12"s? How did you put that together, all custom work? I likey....
Thats a rather sweet setup you got there, are those 10"s or 12"s? How did you put that together, all custom work? I likey....
The amp rach is just a piece of pine, carpeted, the same size as the bottom of the well, so it doesn't move, but I can pick it up if I have to take it out, and I cut a long piece of screw stock into 4 pieces, drilled the board, and bolted the 4 pieces to it. Then slid the 1st amp down, and put spacers (1\4 square stock) in to leave about a 2-3 inch gap betwwen amps for airflow. I like it because it's not bolted to anything, but it never moves around, even at the track. And if I need to work on the system, all I have to do is pick it up! And it provides enough room to mount a cap. (see photo) or whatever else you need to put back there. Most of those disorganized small wires (I haven't had time to clean it up yet) are for the fan relay. I was paranoid about heating the amps up because they were stacked, even though they never shut off from heat, but I decided to put that small squirrel cage fan in. I hooked it up so it only runs when the amps are on with a simple relay.
I also like it, because all the amps are hidden!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I didn't want to parade my car hi-fi to every potential thief on the planet!
Last edited by Barry85Iroc; Oct 20, 2003 at 08:37 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 615
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From: Ogden, UT
Car: 95 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E with 3000 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.23? I'm not sure
Mine are 12s
I just did the guide in the tech section on the very bottom and followed that... I had an old desk with the perfect piece of wood, and an extra back seat outta my old camaro, so i didnt hurt my actuall seat at all, so i can put it back if i want. It didnt cost me anything except to go and buy the velcro strips because my stupid amp doesnt have anywhere to screw it on, so i had to stick it on...
I just did the guide in the tech section on the very bottom and followed that... I had an old desk with the perfect piece of wood, and an extra back seat outta my old camaro, so i didnt hurt my actuall seat at all, so i can put it back if i want. It didnt cost me anything except to go and buy the velcro strips because my stupid amp doesnt have anywhere to screw it on, so i had to stick it on...
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 530
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From: Nazareth, PA
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
The amp rack I had to make to fit the two other amps and EQ/crossover. I covered it in vinyl, I thought it went better with the interior than carpeting would have.




It looks like you glued someones afro to your amp!