I listen to mostly metal so a single 10" was reccomended....

1) MTX Thunder6000 10" Subwoofer, 75-200 RMS 79.00

2) Alpine 4x6 S-Series Speakers, 30 RMS 99.99

3) Alpine 6x9 Coaxial 2-Way Speakers, 50 RMS, 149.00

4) Alpine MRP-F200 4/3/2 channel Amp, 169.99
The description says this....
14.4V RMS Continuous Power 4 ohm Stero (.08% THD) 40Wx4
2Ohm Stero (.3% THD) 50Wx4, Bridged 4 ohms (.3% THD)

Who wants to tell me what all that means??!

Kenwood KGC-4042A - 153.00
How hard would it be to wire up and what effect does it have on the sound? Do you recomend me putting one in?


[This message has been edited by camaro6spd (edited May 31, 2001).]

 

RMS= continous power. this is how much sound can flow through the spoeaker continously with out damage occuring (assuming its not distorted)

peak power or MAX is how much sound can "burst" through a speaker all at once. if you run tthe max through the speaker for a long amount of time then damage will occur.

stereo=obvious, 2 chanels of sound R & L

bridged means that you combine channels for a MONO channel. and amp can send more power to one speaker this way. you do this by taking the - from one chanel, say the right, and the + from the left and run them to the +/- on the speaker.

THD stands for Total Harmonic Distortion. the more % the more distortion. this is the crap that blows speakers. ive benn told below %.10 is inaudible, however i have been told that some people can hear it.

Kenwood KGC-4042A - 153.00 - im assuming this is a deck. it can be tricky if you dont have a harness, or some guy who owned it before you butchered all the wires and hooked it up a$$ backward. (arrrrgg) but when i installed my deck in my 3rdgen all of the factory wires were labeled and so were the decks so it was really sipmle. the red wire goes to ignition tho. not to the battery connection. unless you want your stereo on all the time. i think it was yellow or orange that went to the battery. (so you dont loose your station presets and clock.) usually the stero manual will tell you how to hook it up.

contrarry to the ******* manual of car stereo install, electric tape is NOT the best fastening device. i like scotch locks, some people like butt connecters. wire nuts are bad too. they are designed for home electric systems and are great for that. but how many pot holes do you drive over in your home? wire nuts can, over time, shake loose and thats really bad if your power wire finds a piece of your carbody. best case= blows a fuse, worst case car catches fire and you blow up.

------------------
1979 L-82 Beefed up Corvette. Bright-orange with orange pearl.
end of summer: NOS!! im thinkin 250 shot. (already have a full race engine.)
god i love this car.

1985 WS6 Trans AM T-tops
bone stock sloth of an engine on its last leg(LG4 w/ 172,000mi)
T-5 tranny. thank god, i couldnt stand an LG4 auto.
Plans for an LT1,
dual flowmaster exaust,
& a pounding stereo.
but its gotta wait for my Vette to be a badarse before it will be.

 

4042 sounds like a 1/4 DIN EQ to me.
I had one in 1989.

------------------
86 T/A 5.0
?????
93 Civic 1.6L
13.5 @ 100 mph

 

MTX makes good subs, and I've heard alot of good things about that one. I don't know much about Alpine speakers, however. They are supposted to make great amps (very clean power) and head units (you said you already have one). That amp will be giving your fronts 40 watts RMS each which should be plenty. Bridged your sub will be getting about 100 RMS off that amp, which may be a little weak. If you're not looking for lots of bass, you may be satisfied with that however. Are those 4x6's the plates? If so they should sound great. And the 6x9's really arn't as important as the fronts, because you dont hear them as much, and the front is where all your detail comes from. As for the Kenwood equalizer, I really don't think you need one. Many people just use them to raise the bass level, or adjust the treble, which can usually be done with your head unit anyways. I'd say spend that money elsewhere. Overall, it looks pretty good. Alpine and MTX are decent names, and if you're going from factory to amplified plates up front with a sub in the back, you will definatly notice a SUBSTANTIAL difference in quality and responce. You'll notice things in music you never knew were there before. Plus when you crank your metal tunes, it wont go all muddy nearly as soon. Just make sure you do a quality install, building your box to spec out of quailty materials, and I think you'll be pleased with the results.

- Mike

 

Actually..learned this in physiology today... .1 is the lowest u can hear. 0 is inaudible.

------------------
1989 Firebird
2.8 v6, t5 swapped in

Ram Hi-po clutch, Cold Air, 1.6 rockers,Lakewood LCA's, Lakewood Lift bars, Wonder Bar, 3" y-pipe, Random Tech Cat, 3" I-pipe, Flowmasters, MSd 6a, MSD Coil (Fireball in future) Accel 8.8 wires, MSD Ignition Module, Auto Meter Gauges (Water, Clock (needed one) Fuel Pressure, and 5" monster tach) 4th Gen Seats

"I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to not have run at all"

[This message has been edited by Graeme'sFirebird (edited May 31, 2001).]

 

Also consider that the more components you have (i.e. amp, head unit, eq, crossovers) the more potential you have for noise or interference to enter into your sound. When installing your first or even your 50th system, try and adhere to the KISS method. (Keep It Simple, Stupid) You will have a very nice, clean sounding system. Enjoy it.

Chris

 

Ok forget the EQ, can I skimp a littl on the 6x9s and put the extra into a better amp?

what about this?
* RMS Continuous Power (Watt) (at 12.0V 20-20kHz): 4 Ohm Stereo (0.08% THD) 30W x 4; 2 Ohm Stereo (0.3% THD) 40W x 4; Bridged 4 Ohm (0.3% THD) 80W x 2

Alpine MRV-F307 Amp: Multi-channel $249.00


[This message has been edited by camaro6spd (edited June 01, 2001).]

 

The 6x9s and 4x6s both have 30W RMS so i figure if the head unit puts out that much(30x4) then I might as well save money and get a mono channel amp for the sub.

Letts see, the MRV-100M is 179.99 and here are the stats....
RMS Continuous Power (Watt) (at 12.0V, 20-20 kHz): 4 Ohm (0.08% THD) 100W x 1; 2 Ohm (0.3% THD) 150W x 1; RMS Continuous Power (Watt) (at 14.4V, 20-20kHz): 4 Ohm (0.08% THD) 150W x 1; 2 Ohm (0.3% THD) 200W x 1

What do you guys think...?

[This message has been edited by camaro6spd (edited June 02, 2001).]

 

btt......

 

need more power...

 

I am not looking for an extreme system, I hae performance needs to meet over the stereo. ummm...what power, the speakers or sub?

 

the sub is 200 RMS, the amp is 100 RMS correct? im just a person that if you buy a 500 watt sub push it with a 500 watt amp

 

the top amp is but the other one is 150 RMS.

 

push it with what works. i ran a 300RMS sub with a 150RMS amp. it made my head hurt in the vette, and i can feel it in my throat in the trans am. (its under powered, but it still hits hard.) i have a alpine amp that is in my sister's saturn right now powering her two 12" kicker comps. at 3/4 gain its litterally tearing apart her interior. its only 120x2 RMS bridged. oh and her car is an '01. it has about 200 miles on it.

http://ecominet2.alpine-usa.com:7777...=105&p_main=10

thats a nice link!

------------------
1979 L-82 Beefed up Corvette. Bright-orange with orange pearl.
end of summer: NOS!! im thinkin 250 shot. (already have a full race engine.)
god i love this car.

1985 WS6 Trans AM T-tops
bone stock sloth of an engine on its last leg(LG4 w/ 172,000mi)
T-5 tranny. thank god, i couldnt stand an LG4 auto.
Plans for an LT1,
dual exaust,
& a pounding stereo.

 

umm, I know how you people feel about plates but i saw a guy with a plate half-way down in the well. I wonder if that sound any decent?! The headunit says 30x4 on the faceplate and alpines 4x6s and 6x9s are 30 RMS so I don't need and amp with them. If I take this 4 channel amp and brige two channels together for two of the 10" subs up top, what kind of power am I looking at, 120W RMS or 240 RMS? I can't read these damned things. I understande what is compatable but I can't read the ads

 

umm....what are 8" subs good for, Where are they supperior to 10s and 12s??!