302GT_killer

im building a carbed 350 and i want a 750 holley. do i want electric choke or manual choke? vacuum secondaries or mechanical secondaries? can someone please tell me what each is and explain which ones i would want?

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soon that white 5.0 lx at school will get a good waxing from a nasty 355 RS...heheheheheh

Big454blockchevy

Usually for the street you want vac. secondaries. Most of the time (not always)double pumpers are reserved for racing only . V.S carbs usually are more streetable than double pumpers altough double pumpers can be made to work witha street setup. I would highly recommend Holley vac sec. If you buy it don't go for the 770 STreet Avenger just buy yourself a 750 (Cheaper!) and get yourself a metering block and switch out the metering plate thatn comes with the carb, also get yourself a quick change kit for the secondary springs (the difference being a 1 minute spring change vs a good 15min to change spring without the kit), as far as the choke it really depends on you and if it really gets cold where you live I'd recommend a manual choke. Hope I could help a bit in your decision. Go kick some 5.0 ****!

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383 86 Camaro Z28
10.5:1compression Dart Pro 1 Aluminum heads 215cc>2.05/1.60 valves,400 steel crank,cam specs:224/234 at 050 525/525 lift,3500 stall converter,shift kit,3.42 gears,770 Holley Avenger,Victor Jr. Intake,true dual exh,Hooker headers with 40 series Flowmasters,MSD Coil and Module.

82camaro

Vacuum secondaries for an automatic and manual secondaries(double pump) for a manual is usually a good rule of thumb. Electric choke is what your car would have with a stock carb. Manual choke will require installing some kind of control in the interior of the car. No performance gain with the different choke set-ups, so I would go with what is convenient--electric choke.


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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

Demon Z28

umm, some kind of control in the interior? whatcha mean?

I have a manual choke... just a few pumps of the gas pedal and turn the key... works nicely.


I kind of like manual choke... but I guess its not for everyone...

ChillPhatCat

I don't think you're thinking of a manual choke with the pumping the gas pedal thing... if you have a manual choke and no way to operate it, than you're either not using the choke or its electric. A manual choke setup involves a tab which pulls out to turn on the choke and pushes in to turn it off... If you've ever been in a first gen Rx7 you'd see what I was talking about...

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1984 Firebird - Daily driver, 305 LG4, T5 - Hurst short shifter, Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer Carb - Edelbrock Pro-Flow air filter, gutted cat, IROC 16x8 Wheels, Goodyear P215/60/R16, AIWA bargain basement (from Sears of course) CD player, Fuzzy dice, Eight-ball shift ****
Check out my ride here $1600!!

First Kill: 2001 Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon (1 person vs me with 2 passengers)

Demon Z28

I've got an RX5, to top your 1st gen RX7 (Mazda Cosmo)

There are a variety of manual chokes I guess the ones in some diesel mercedes differ from the mazda's...

who knows, maybe I'm on crack, but I don't have electric choke nor do I have a tab to pull or push hehehe

and it works fine btw

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Diesels don't use a choke.

I had a 600DP with no choke a couple of decades ago. It would start and run without the choke when cold only because it was jetted too rich. That's probably your case as well, Z.

Killer, follow 82's advice. Although a 750 is probably a little bigger than what you really need.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet (Holley 3310 on the way), GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

Demon Z28

well then I guess the mercedes outside thats a diesel doesn't have a choke ... that must be a headlight switch or something right??

82camaro

Another kind of choke you might be talking about. It's usually called an automatic choke. It uses a thermostat that opens the choke as the engine warms up. An electric choke has the thermostat that opens as the engine warms up--BUT it has a 'heater' that is heated by 12 volts to open the choke faster. Manual choke means you have to physically turn the choke on and back off again as needed. If you don't have electricity going to the choke, you probably have an automatic choke.



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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

Ed Maher

Dude, what are you talking about, last time i checked diesels used direct injection, and in my limited experience w/ them i have NEVER heard of a carbed diesel.
Anyhow, a manual choke will always have a lever that you have to MANUALLY manipulate to engage/disengage the choke. That is where the term 'manual' choke comes from. Just like in a manual transmision you must **** the gears yourself.
Beyond that there are several types of non manual chokes that use everything from electricty to heat a coil, to heat in the intake exhaust crossover, to a coiul mounted on the exhaust manifold, to a series of vacuum lines that draw hot air from the exhaust crossover/manifold, etc. Or you could even have a manual choke car that doens't have a lever hooked up in the pass. compartment and manages to start cuz it is so poorly tuned (as was the case w/ a beater that my sisters boyfriend had rigged up for her)

merf23

Diesels usually have "glow plugs" which pre-heats the combustion chamber. Also, diesels arent known for their abiltiy to start when cold!

I prefer an electric choke. Once its hooked up, you can pretty much forget about it. A race only car is a different story....

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1984 Z28 (L69) monochrome tangerine orange with IROC decals and hood
1987 IROC wheels with Goodyear GSC's
305 from 87 IROC with 1994 LT1 cam (203/208 .450/.460")
performer intake
Qjet from 73 Olds
dynomax cat-back, gutted cat
no emissions controls --> passed emissions testing
non WC T-5 with 0.73 5th
3.27 nine-bolt

jrr

When I lived in Chicago, I found that sticking a powerful hair dryer into the intake of a diesel before cranking would get it going, even when it was -10*F outside!