383 Power

iTrader: (2)

During my regular visit to the junkyard, i found what looked like a nice Holley. Since the Junkyard that i go to only charges $32 for Carbs no matter what they are, i bought it. I did my Research and found out that it's a Vacuum Secondary 600 CFM.

Today i bought a can of Carb Dip and a Rebuild kit. I pulled the Primary Float bowl off first. I was clumsy. one of the legs for the Float broke. Woe is me......... Looks like i'll need a new float. Gonna buy a pair since i'm buying new. The Bowl it's self was COVERED inside with a coat of DUST. That's right, i said DUST. Weird. It looked like the carb had actually been used recently, but obviously not. The Jets and Power Valve looked rusted, but they came out just fine. When i got to the other bowl, the condition was the same as the first, but there was no Metering Block. In it's place was a thin plate of some kind that was held on by flush mount screws with a Weird slot. It looks like it's a standard Screw with a custom head. I'm gonna try to replace them with standard Screws. In any event, they had to come out so that i could remove the seal behind them. With the Carb disassembled, i turned to the Carb Dip. The freakin' Main Body and Baseplate, won't fit. WHAT THE HELL! i have the Fuel bowls, Metering Blocks and Accelorator Pump Soaking now, but how do i do the Main Body and Baseplate? Any Ideas? Also, when i pulled the squirter, i got a needle but no ball. Isn't there supposed to be a ball?

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

Here are some photos that i forgot

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

4160's don't have a secondary metering block with jets, they have a metering plate. I'd keep the same type screws.

I bought a bait bucket to soak the larger parts like the main body.

Squirter: http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...ded%20View.pdf
Note items 74, 75, & 76.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

THANK YOU! That diagram is AWESOME! I don't know for sure, but i'm GUESSING that i have a later model 4160/1850. The Vacuum Secondary cover is Plastic and the Accelerator Pump Arm is Plastic. Where did you get your Bait Bucket? Why would you keep the same Screws?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I forget where I got the bait bucket, Walmart, perhaps? It's galvanized steel.

I guess I'm a little nervous switching from screws made for the application to general use parts.

Of course, you could get a 4160 -> 4150 conversion kit and eliminate the plate entirely. Then you could rejet the secondaries to your heart's content.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

Well, it looks like the Carb has needed a Rebuild for a long time. The Vacuum secondary Diaphram looks pretty bad. I'm gonna take my time though. I think i'll stay with the secondary metering plate. I don't see dumping THAT MUCH money into a 600 CFM vacuum secondary carb that i got from the junkyard. I've spent quite a bit already. The Mechanical Choke on this thing is Broken, so i have elected to Retrofit an Electrical.

$20 Carb Dip
$23 Rebuilt Kit
$10 Vacuum Diaphram
$20 Floats
$50 Electric Choke Retrofit
$32 The Carb It's Self

Total: $155

I probably should have just bought a Brand New Carb.

Sparkytfl

That white gunk isnt dust, it comes from the gas. Maybe old stale gas and years of buildup. I've seen it in a lawnmower that wouldnt start, and in a spare quadrajet I have.

You'll still probably have to spend another thirty on the overpriced TV bracket.

Try a few different screwdrivers for those weird screws, I managed to find a flathead with the right width blade to work on them.

blue85305

They're clutch head screws, you may be able to grind down the center of a flat head screwdriver to make it work. I'd definitely keep them in.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

I devised a Solution to the Main Body problem:

I went to Sherwin Williams and got an unused paint can. I was hoping that it would be slightly larger than the carb dip one. I was wrong. Then it came to me. I got the carb main body and a Sharpie. I centered the Main Body on the can with the lid off and marked the corners leaving about 3/16" on each side of the corners. Then i took out my trusty Dremel and cut those sections out. I filed down the bur and poured the solvent into the new container. My Main body is now soaking. I do have about 1/8" gap on the four corners where the lid won't cover, but i threw a rag over the top for good measure. We'll see how this come out

BTW, the can is outside. I know you guys were worried about the fumes, and so was I.

DAREDEVIL 1

DAMN, where i can get that for a 4500 ??

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

Here are your After Pics of the Fuel Bowl. Compare this to the original photo i posted. I know you guys are gonna say i'm crazy, but after reviewing the cost of Eastwood's Carb Renew ($12.99 for a 5 Oz Can with $9.99 Shipping), i selected VHT High Temperature Engine Metallic It says that it's good to 650F and is Resistant to Oil and Fuel. If it doesn't hold up, it's not the end of the world. At least i tried and I have the experiance to know better next time.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

I took my Dremel and Smoothed out all the rough flash around the Metering Block. I'm hoping this will make the overall finished product look better.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What, this?

http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...ded%20View.pdf

Two clicks away in the "welcome to the carburetor forum" sticky.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

This is my Mock-Up. Still waiting on the floats and vacuum diaphram, but all looks good. The only thing is, the rebuild kit didn't come with new jets. The ones that i removed LOOK like they MIGHT work, but the Carb WAS sitting for a while. would you guys install new Jets?

DAREDEVIL 1

LOL. sorry did not find it , and thanks for this one !!!!!!!!

Sparkytfl

The jets wouldnt go bad, but most likely they wont be right for your particular engine anyway. It's going to take trying several sizes to find what works best. Basically keep switching to smaller ones until it starts to surge while cruising, then go back up a couple sizes. It's all explained in the holley tuning sticky. But hopefully someone on here can give a recommendation on what number to start with.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

How can you tell if your Vacuum Secondary Diaphragm is bad? Here's a shot of my old one right next to my new one. You tell me..............

DAREDEVIL 1

cause its soft and is teared up on the top each..mhhhhhh

xuxumi

The Vacuum secondary Diaphram looks pretty bad .

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