Jesse Boggess

Hey guys, joined the team to see if I could get some help with my issue. I bought a 1992 RS with a Chevy 350 equipped with an edlebrock carb and manifold. I have been having issues with it running. I have it tweaked now where it will start up fine and run at about 3500 rpm until warm up then will drop to 1500-2000 rpm and continue to run for about 10-15 seconds and then just dies. I noticed this morning that the electric choke was not hooked up, so I wired it together and it still doesn't seem to be doing anything. Not sure if it's broken or what. I have tightened all the manifold bolts and carb mount bolts to assure they are not letting excess air in. Currently have the fuel and air intake bolts out 3 turns. Have adjusted the idle screw to let the engine run around 1500 rpm. Just won't stay running. Has been blowing out a bit of white smoke but I don't believe that is related to the issue since it's all just crap in the tailpipes burning up. Also checked down the carb barrels to see if there was any gas leaking in, which there wasn't. Any advice one where to go with this issue would be great!

Bigdeerock

Just had a similar issue turn out to be a vac leak. Manifold bolts and carb gasket. I know u said the bolts are tight but were they torqued?? I actually had to seal the carb to the mount because no matter how tight I thought I was it would still leak. Anyway the sure fire way to rule out a vac leak is to spray with starter fluid (gaskets and such) and if the engine idles up there is a leak in that spot. I fixed my small leaks and now mine is purring at 7-800 at idle. FYI starter fluid will not catch fire

Jesse Boggess

Thanks man, I have just replaced the manifold gaskets yesterday and cured a few oil leaks. I will have to replace the carb gasket and see what happens.

Copakekid

I have a 73 Javelin and put an Edelbrock Manifold and Carb on it. I couldn't stop the vacuum leak no matter how much I tightened the bolts. I called Summit where I bought both items. They said that I needed a carb adaptor or wouldn't be able to seal the leak. It comes in a package with a steel plate and 2 carb gaskets. After putting that on no problems. Prior to that I checked the surface on the manifold that the carb mounts to with a straight edge, and it had a serious crown to it.

Jesse Boggess

That's some great information, thanks for your input. I think ill just buy two gaskets and throw them on there.

Copakekid

It's up to you. I put the Carb on the car before I replaced the intake and put one of the adaptor kits on. When I took it off to replace the intake, I noticed that the metal plate had quite a bow in it. I put a new one on when I put the Carb back on, and no problems. I think it cost like around 8 bucks for the adaptor kit. Here is a link to the kit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2732/?rtype=10

Jesse Boggess

Will the gasket having one big hole affect how it operates compared to if it was one with the 4 separate holes?..which seems more appropriate to stay away from anything crossing chambers.

Copakekid

I just used the regular open gasket for the Edelbrock square bore carb. I have only seen the 4 hole gasket used on an intake that had 4 holes. I may be mistaken but I think the 4 hole gasket is for a spread bore carb.

Jesse Boggess

Well I replaced all the gaskets and no difference. I came to the conclusion it is a fuel line/ pressure issue. I took of the plastic valve by the tank that let's out moisture and let's in air, and it ran better than it has the whole time but finally died. My friend was up at the block and noticed it was leaking gas out of the return fuel line that is not hooked up and wont stop. Any input to go forward from here would be great.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What are you using for a fuel pump?

Jesse Boggess

I assume its the stock fuel pump located In the tank.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Then you need to hook up the return to a return-style fuel pressure regulator.

I'd guess you're getting the priming from the timed fuel pump relay, then the pump isn't getting power after that. So, you've got two things to fix - the way pressure is regulated, and the way the pump is powered.

Jesse Boggess

Well, the grey hairs appearing on my head took its toll. It was leaking cause I jacked the rear end up. Ha, but the regulator seems like it would seriously make all the difference. I don't know how the owner before me had it running....maybe he was two-footing it. Any recommendation on which one to get?

Jesse Boggess

How should I have the stock fuel pump powered? Should I have the relay modified to have he pump running all the time the ignition is on to provide a steady source of fuel after I put te mallory regulator on? Or should all be good to go from there?

Jesse Boggess

Any input to my last post would be appreciated...

Apeiron

Use the stock oil pressure switch.