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Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

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Old 05-28-2018, 08:29 PM
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Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

First I’ll give you the engine specs. 383 cid, 9.8:1 compression, AFR 195 street eliminators 76cc chambers, QFT Slayer 750cfm (8.5” power valve) with the transfer slot at .020” exposure (adjusting idle speed with 2ndry butterflies), Edelbrock RPM AG. Camshaft specs: Howard’s cams 180885-10 - hydraulic roller 278/278 @.006, 225/225 @.050, .525”/.525” lift (I’m using 1.6 rockers so .560/.560” lift) and 110* LSA installed 4* advanced. Initial timing is 14*, getting 38* with the vac advance plugged into manifold vac. I’m getting 15”Hg@900 rpm in neutral with a 13.5:1 afr. It doesn’t like to be any leaner. Trans is a TH350 w/ a 2k stall. I’m using an AEM wideband installed in the DS collector to monitor afr’s.

So the problem is it won’t idle in gear. As soon as I drop into R or 3 the rpm drops to around 500, vacuum at 5”Hg and within seconds dies if I don’t gas it. The only way I’ve gotten it to idle in gear is to richen it up to 12:1 and no load idle at 1100rpm. That only gets it to idle like $#!+ @600rpm though. Vacuum is relatively steady just changing with idle rpm fluctuations. I’ve checked for and eliminated any vacuum leaks save for the PCV (no inline restrictor) which is plugged into the 3/8” brake booster port along with the booster and vacuum modulator. There isn’t a PCV port on the front like my old Holley SA. I’ve checked both of those and no leaks using a mighty vac to pull 15” and watching for vacuum to drop. So now I’m stumped because I’ve checked everything I can think of and this baby cam and average carb just won’t get along. I need suggestions from the dudes who have done this longer and more successfully than I have... I’m new to it so not a huge requirement. She’s also running kinda hot, around 200* with the fan running and a 180* stat in it. I attribute that to it being a new engine and straight distilled water until I ensure no coolant leaks but I’d like to know if something about that is telling or odd too. I’m using a champion 3-row rad and 16” e fan.

Last edited by SilverChicken; 05-28-2018 at 08:35 PM.
Old 05-28-2018, 10:10 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Have you seen this yet? https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...ey-tuning.html
Old 05-29-2018, 06:30 AM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Follow the tuning sticky. I am betting you are going to find that there is not enough timing advance. I think it is going to want about 8 degrees more at idle (22 base and about 46 with the vacuum). You may need to limit the total mechanical advance so you don't go over 36 or so.
Old 05-29-2018, 12:24 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Initial timing is 14*, getting 38* with the vac advance plugged into manifold vac.
What is it without the vac advance plugged in?
Old 05-29-2018, 05:42 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Try a 4.5" power valve.
Old 05-29-2018, 06:14 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Im not ready to use Sofa’s guide yet as the car won’t idle in gear and therefore doesn’t drive. There’s something beyond that going on right now, it shouldn’t be dropping that much rpm going into gear.

Initial timing is is right there in your quote, 14*. My problem with advancing it much more is my total with mechanical advance shouldn’t go much over 32-34 since these heads are supposed to have fast burn style chambers. Maybe my thinking on this is a little wrong. I can’t limit my overall timing since this is a stock style non CC HEI distributor. It’s one of those Skip White units, works great.

Last edited by SilverChicken; 05-29-2018 at 06:22 PM.
Old 05-29-2018, 08:00 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Did some more tweaking tonight, little by little I’m getting somewhere. I bumped up timing to 18* initial which helped enough for me to watch the afr in gear at idle. It’s leaning way out before it dies so I backed the idle mixture screws out 1/8 turn at a time until I had a decent ratio at idle in gear, 13.4-14.0. Problem is it’s at an eye burning 12.1-12.5:1 when not in gear. It’s still dropping way down in rpm, about 400 rpm, and tries to lean out and stutter but recovers. Still seems like too big of a drop in rpm even if I’m up against the converter a little bit (it does seem pretty tight for a 2k). Is this normal behavior for a noticeably-larger-than-stock cam at idle? I’m thinking this more of a timing issue than a carburetor tune issue now.

Last edited by SilverChicken; 05-29-2018 at 09:13 PM.
Old 05-30-2018, 03:36 AM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

I'm curious. If you create a small manifold vacuum leak (.177" dia hose opened), what does the engine do - speed up, slow down, or stay the same?
Old 05-30-2018, 06:52 AM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Think about what happens when you drop the car in gear...the car sees some load from the drivetrain, and the RPM's drop which lowers your vacuum some. The distributor is also slowing down with the RPM drop which is affecting the mechanical advance. You already proved to yourself that adding base timing made it better. Add 10 more degrees of base and see how it acts at idle. If this fixes it, then figure out how to limit your total mechanical. After that, work on the carb using the tuning sticky.
Old 05-30-2018, 08:23 AM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Originally Posted by SilverChicken
Im not ready to use Sofa’s guide yet as the car won’t idle in gear and therefore doesn’t drive. There’s something beyond that going on right now, it shouldn’t be dropping that much rpm going into gear.

Initial timing is is right there in your quote, 14*. My problem with advancing it much more is my total with mechanical advance shouldn’t go much over 32-34 since these heads are supposed to have fast burn style chambers. Maybe my thinking on this is a little wrong. I can’t limit my overall timing since this is a stock style non CC HEI distributor. It’s one of those Skip White units, works great.
Right it is in the quote but it looks like you wrote 14° with the vac plugged in you should set initial without it unplugged I wanted to make sure.
Old 05-30-2018, 11:12 AM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

If you have a 8.5 power valve and vacuum drops to 5 when you put it in gear, the power valve will open and flood the engine.
Old 05-30-2018, 11:50 AM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

The main circuit should not be active at idle...so the PV has no (or very little) impact on AFR. The PV only enriches the circuit that feeds the boosters.
Old 05-30-2018, 05:08 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Originally Posted by giovanhalen
If you have a 8.5 power valve and vacuum drops to 5 when you put it in gear, the power valve will open and flood the engine.
I’m able to monitor my afr’s at idle and it isn’t getting overly rich, it’s leaning out when in gear. So that’s not the problem.

As I’ve read more about what I’m experiencing I’m seeing that, as someone mentioned above, when I place it in gear the load reduces idle rpm, vacuum drops and since I’m using manifold vacuum to advance my timing at idle so does my advance. That means I get double whammied into a slow, sluggish idle. So the only way it seems to combat this is to increase my initial timing, limit overall timing somehow, and see if it won’t idle acceptably hooked up to port vacuum. I went with what I considered to be a small cam for the engine to avoid all this trouble. Really don’t want to have to buy another, much more expensive distributor just to get that tuning function (mechanical advance limiting).


Last edited by SilverChicken; 05-30-2018 at 05:16 PM.
Old 05-30-2018, 05:45 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

You can get what you have to run fine. I have a lot more cam than that in a 350 and it idles at 900RPM with 13” or vacuum. At idle, you should be in the 40’s for advance. That would be initial plus vacuum advance. Don’t hook to ported vacuum! That will make things worse.
Old 05-31-2018, 08:22 AM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Your problem is there isn't enough stall in that converter; go with a 2600 stall and it'll idle fine. I was running a 2200 stall with my 383 for while and it acted much like you describe, I swapped in a 2600 stall and the problem completely went away.

Last edited by MSgt Luttrell; 05-31-2018 at 08:27 AM.
Old 06-19-2020, 10:31 AM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Ever figure it out? Were the timing marks correct?
Old 06-19-2020, 03:19 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

Not sure if the OP figured it out but having been there I can solve his problem. He hinted at it by noting that when dropped into gear, idle vacuum dropped and with it, so did the advance. After that it would crap out. The solution is twofold. First an adjustable vacuum can is needed. The adjustment relates to the set point at which the advance comes in. It has to be set lower than what the vacuum would be in gear while idling. It's a bit of hit and miss. What happens as a result of this is that the full manifold vacuum advance is present and unchanged from park or when in gear. The next step is to get Cranes vacuum limiting advance plate. With this you can tailor how much vacuum advance you wish to add.
Going this route, it will allow you to reduce the base timing so as not to exceed the total when the centrifugal advance comes in due to the nonadjustable HEI advance mechanism.
As an example, typical max centrifugal advance is 19. Give it 14 base timing for a WOT total of 34. Add whatever amount you wish from the vacuum side to get the idle timing to where you want it. I've run up to 30 degrees idle timing with cams that have a lot of overlap like a 288/292. They'll idle at 750 RPM if tuned correctly.
But the key is to have all of the manifold vacuum advance in at a point below the lowest anticipated idle vacuum.

Last edited by skinny z; 06-19-2020 at 05:32 PM.
Old 06-19-2020, 05:53 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

I have one of those Skip White distributors on the shelf - new in the box.
I will take a look (for my own curiosity) tonight to see if the mechanical advance can be easily limited.

Here is a link for my review of the Skip White distributor I have: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...ml#post6380255

Last edited by NoEmissions84TA; 06-20-2020 at 08:50 PM.
Old 06-19-2020, 05:59 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

I'd be interested to know. My MSD distributor has a variety of bushings to limit the movement of the advance plate via the pin and slot. The aftermarket HEI I have, and several OEM HEI's I've had require the advance slot to be welded up and ground appropriately so as to limit the advance. There are other ways to go about it as well as demonstrated in this thread. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ild-needs.html Post #6.
Old 06-19-2020, 07:24 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

I did solve it. First, I ditched the 3spd auto for a 6 speed manual. That let it idle, lol but that’s not why I did it. I had the th350 rebuilt and put a bigger stall in it to lessen the idle load for the bigger cammed engine but kept having problems with it so I did what I had always wanted to do anyways and got a T56. Then I went fuel injection, no problems at all idling anymore.
Old 06-19-2020, 07:26 PM
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Re: Getting new motor and carb combo to idle

I like a happy ending.
Enjoy.
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