just did a full overhaul on the motor and everything on the cooling system was replaced except the radiator. well the car sits at 195degrees but wen i drive it down the road and give it a little extra gas the motor atomaticaly shoots to red and coolan flies everywere. i dont have the vacum line on the distributor hooked up, but thats the same way i had it last summer with not a single problem. my timing is only advanced 5degrees

wat its got worth sharing:
xe262 comp cam
hedman hedders
edelbrock performer intake
holley 600cfm modified carb
msd distibutor
T56 tranny
specter cold air intake (728)

 

You need to fix the timing. 350s like about 32* advance, with about 10-12* initial. And hook up the dizzy's vacuum line to a manifold vacuum source.

 

ok ill hook up the vacuum line, i just pulled it off wen i did the hedders and they wer a pain to put bak so i left the off. so it will run good at 32degrees advanced and will either slow or stop the overheating? o well i was just running at 5degrees advancement since the motor liked the setting more wen it idled at 550RPM.

 

Not sure if it will help the overheating, but its definitely not doing your performance or fuel economy any good. You need to set the base timing (10-12*) with the vacuum line disconnected. Then reattach it after you set the base timing.

Where is the coolant coming from?

 

most of the time it overheats it shots coolant bak into the reserve tank. the reserve tank has a cracked top, iv been meaning to get a new one but i usualy forget about it or never hav enof time to go to the junkyard and find a good one

 

I think the reserve tank could be the issue. Im unsure as to if the rad can build pressure with it cracked or not. But if it cant build pressure, itll cause it to over heat.

 

Don't need pressure at the reserve tank - and empty beer can with no top will serve as a reserve tank. Might try replacing the rad cap - it's a cheap start.

 

well when it does this if you can pull over and feel the core of the radiator for hot spots and cold spots, usually if a car doesnt overheat at idle and overheats when driving its because the radiator is plugged

 

low timing at idle and lean mixture could easily overheat the motor. I'm battling an issue myself and havent quite found my issue but I will be playing with timing and the air fuel ratio alot more than I have so far.

Lean mixture with low/late timing advance causes the hot gas to do less work on the piston and thus heat does not get transfered to the pistons and goes out the exhaust pipe. Heating the exhaust port will greatly heat up the coolant in the heads and thus overheat the car.

5 deg of timing at idle is way low. give it atleast another 8 deg or 10 deg for a base of around 13-15 and try that. Alot of cars want even higher base timing.

Check your spark plugs for the idle mixture. Make sure they are more tan and not white. Do that and see what the coolant temp is then.

Similar effect at higher rpms and onthe throttle. Too muching timing retard will do the same thing. Overheating while driving can be caused by that or like said above a clog in the system somewhere.
Make sure the hoses are not collapsing. Make sure you have good air flow going to the front of the car and maintain the air dam. Make sure the fans are working properly and getting air thru the rad.

Invest in an IR gun to get surface temps to check for hot/cold spots

 

well i guess to be safe ill try everyones idea. but im having a problem with the fan ever since i put the transmission in the fan seems to hit the fanshroud so i put a bungie cord on it to hold it bak but i dont think that should matter but was thinking of puting in a slightly smaller fan but with my issues that doesnt seem to be smart. i did notice last year before i did any work on my motor i was running rich but it didnt overheat then and havent rely tuned the carb but im runing more increased airflow from last year