Orochimaru

I replaced the radiator fan switch between spark plug 8 & 6. I replaced the coolant temperature sender with the yellow & black wire that sits on top of the thermostat. Changed the pigtails of both switches as well. Now my radiator fan does not kick in. Radiator fan still works with AC on. What is the problem here? 86 camaro 305 V8 AT LG4 with AC

Ron U.S.M.C.

What temperature "on" fan switch did you put in ?

Orochimaru

I changed the Radiator Fan Switch on the Engine between spark plug 6 & 8. Also changed the Coolant Temperature Switch that sits on the thermostat. Radiator Fan only comes on with AC. I also replaced both pigtails for both switches.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Again, as said above...What temperature "on" fan switch did you put in ?

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

The primary isn't going to come on till 235-240 ish...if stock and not mod'd

Ron U.S.M.C.

I prefer a fan switch that comes on in the 180* range with a 180* Thermostat.

That keeps my car in the 180* to 190* range.
Heavy traffic is around 200*

Here's a few that you should be able to find locally.
Fan“on”temperatures.
Part # TFS8 = 204 on
# TFS4 = 213 on
# TFS1 = 224 on
You should be able to have these part numbers cross referenced if necessary.
You can still use the stock 195* thermostat with these switches.

There are switches available from Jet Performance = # 60600 at 195* on and 185* off.
also
Hypertec = # 4028 at 200* on and 185* off.
I would use a 180* thermoset with either of them.

You might be able to order the last switches listed at your local auto parts store.

All of them are installed in the stock location.

Ron U.S.M.C.

My temperature gauge "sender" is located on the drivers side between the 4 and 6 cylinders and looks like this. The connector looks like a "female spayed connector" and slides on from the side.

Ron U.S.M.C.

There is a "knock" censer near the "fan switch" that has been know to be mistaken for the "fan" switch.

Just a thought.

It looks like this.
Link = http://www.autozone.com/engine-manag...ensor/2970_0_0

Croz

I like the idea of running a cooler stat (180') as well as having the fans come on a little sooner. I dont want to hijack this thread but can anyone tell me why the engineers allow these engines to run so hot before they try and cool them down? Is it for efficiency?

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

Yes-engine which run warmer ie 200-210 are mich more efficient since they burn off the fuel mixture more completely. Running cooler reduced thermal efficiency as far as a strong combustion burn goes. Keep in mind too that the coolant passage in the head on a stock engine is typically 15-20 degrees hotter than the intake sonwhile it says the switch is 225-230, its actually more like a 215-220 switch as far as the gauge is concerned. IMO the defect in the GM cooling design lies not with the way they designed the temp switches and ecm to control fan operation but rather the crappy fans and shroud itself. Its dumb to have one fan on, then the other. Everybody runs dual fans in series and with multiple speeds-much more efficient use of them that way-and better shroud designs on oem vehicles apply too.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Take the wire off your fan temp switch that you just replaced and ground it. Key the car to run without starting it. Fan should kick on. If it doesn't, then you may have a relay issue. If it does, then either the switch you put in is bad or you put too much teflon tape on it and it's not grounding out to the block while screwed in.