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HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 12:52 PM
  #1  
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HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Bought an '89 GTA last Fall, and am just getting around to tuning it up. It ran like CRAP when I bought it. It turned out to be the Mass Airflow Sensor. I replaced it, and it ran a lot better. Immediately following that however - the check engine light came on and it throws the following codes. Any ideas?

Trouble codes: 1989 Pontiac Trans Am GTA
DTC - 51 Incorrect MEM-CAL
DTC - 44 Left bank O2 sensor error (lean condition indicated)
DTC - 42 Ignition bypass circuit error
DTC - 41 C³I Cam Sensor Signal error
DTC - 63 Right bank O2 sensor circuit error
DTC - 61 A/C system performance
DTC - 54 Fuel pump circuit low voltage
DTC - 52 Fuel cal-pak incorrect or missing
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Old Mar 5, 2014 | 06:57 PM
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From: Chasing Electrons
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Check the grounds, that is the battery cable to the engine block. Along with the ECM/EFI grounds on the engine (usually to a bolt on the rear of the heads).

99.9% of the time it is a ground issue that causes so many wacko codes.

Note that some such as 61 & 63 don't exist for that ECM.

RBob.
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 07:46 AM
  #3  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Thanks RBob -
I'll check the ground straps/wires today and report back.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 06:03 AM
  #4  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

How many ground straps should there be?
The wire from the battery to the block is fine - but I found a strap that was supposed to run from the firewall to the rear of the passenger side head - that wasn't connected. I couldn't reach behind to connect it, so I ran it from the firewall to the air intake plenum.

Still have the SES light on.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 10:39 AM
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

The ECM/EFI grounds are different then a ground strap. It is typically 3 or 4 wires crimped onto a ring terminal. With the ring terminal bolted to the head. There is typically two of these, sometimes both on one head, other times one on the back of each head.

Being that they didn't re-connect the ground strap makes it more likely that one or more of the ECM/EFI grounds aren't either.

I'm going to move this over to the DFI & ECM board...

RBob.
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 04:14 PM
  #6  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

I didn't see any wires for ground going to the passenger side head. How do you get a nut on that anyway? I got my hand in there and started one, but couldn't get a wrench on it to make it tight.

So frustrating.

Do the ECM/EFI ground wires come through the firewall... and to the head?
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 09:51 AM
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

The EFI grounds originate at the ECM as part of the ECM harness. Pass through the side panel, up and out into the engine compartment between the fender and the HVAC box.

I looked at one resource and it showed that the grounds break out of the harness behind the distributor. The passenger side head gets the ground strap plus some ring terminals.

This source also showed grounds going to the back of the drivers side head. They too break out of the harness near the distributor.

RBob.
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 04:16 PM
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

I had 3 wires that broke out of the harness, and went to the driver side head. nothing on the passenger side. I ran 2 brand new ground straps from the firewall to each head. Cleaned/roughed-up all contacts to ground.

When I first turn the key to start - the SES light does the "bounce" and remains on til the car is started. It then turns off - but comes right back on after about 5 seconds.

If I shut off the car, then turn key to on again - the SES light just remains lit. No bounce.
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 04:46 PM
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Originally Posted by KnuckleDragger
I had 3 wires that broke out of the harness, and went to the driver side head. nothing on the passenger side. I ran 2 brand new ground straps from the firewall to each head. Cleaned/roughed-up all contacts to ground.

When I first turn the key to start - the SES light does the "bounce" and remains on til the car is started. It then turns off - but comes right back on after about 5 seconds.

If I shut off the car, then turn key to on again - the SES light just remains lit. No bounce.
After key-off need to wait at least 5 - 10 seconds before doing a key-on. Then look for the bounce.

Have you checked the code? It may be a single one that is real.

RBob.
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 07:21 PM
  #10  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Car being erratic again. Drove a few miles, turned it off. When I tried to start it again... it would not stay running unless I lightly pumped the accelerator to keep RPM's up. Ran like crap... very choppy... missing - but NO SES light. It did this for a few minutes. I turned it off... let it sit for a couple minutes - then it fired right up, ran strong... but again; SES light came on.
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 10:57 AM
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

With the engine running rap on the ECM case with your knuckles. See if that changes how the engine runs. At this point something is intermittent, just need to figure out what.

Can also push and prod the under hood wiring and connectors.

RBob.
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 02:13 PM
  #12  
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Transmission: Automatic
Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Tapping on ECU... wiggling wires under hood and dash... make no difference. Took it for another short ride today... SES light on, but running like a champ.

When I first bought the car in Oct 2013... it had been sitting for almost a year. I had to change the fuel filter, just to get it to run. It was pretty clogged. I ran a few bottles of Heat through it... did the Seafoam thang... and have burned through 3 tanks of gas since. Could it be the filter is maybe plugged a little... from whatever crappy gas had still been in the tank?
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 02:27 PM
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Could be the filter. If the injectors are the originals they too should be replaced (the coils short out). Although they usually don't set the SES unless the engine is over rich or over lean (O2 sensor code).

Have you checked again to see what code(s) are being set?

RBob.
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 11:41 PM
  #14  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

first try removing your chip and make sure its seated correctly .its easy to check and will cause problems
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 01:44 AM
  #15  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Originally Posted by george88gta
first try removing your chip and make sure its seated correctly .its easy to check and will cause problems
I removed the chip, and re-seatted it. Also tried tapping on the ECU while the car was running. Tapping didn't effect anything.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 06:07 PM
  #16  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

So now - I can go to start the car... and it will run like total crap. Missing, spitting/sputtering. I can turn it off... pull the key out... put key in... re-start it, and it will fire right up and run like a champ.

Other times it's the complete opposite. It will fire right up and purr... but if I shut it off and start it again, it will spit/sputter and misfire.

ECU? Prom?
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 06:57 PM
  #17  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Try replacing the part where wires connect to distributer ( can't think of the correct name... It sits on the cap.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 06:59 PM
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Originally Posted by george88gta
Try replacing the part where wires connect to distributer ( can't think of the correct name... It sits on the cap.
The. EST
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 01:24 AM
  #19  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Originally Posted by george88gta
Try replacing the part where wires connect to distributor ( can't think of the correct name... It sits on the cap.
The Electronic Spark control module?
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 01:42 AM
  #20  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Yes. It was a solution to some of my problems
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 04:07 AM
  #21  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Originally Posted by george88gta
Yes. It was a solution to some of my problems
What problems were you having?
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 04:09 AM
  #22  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

it was awhile ago so I don't remember specifically but the car definitely wasn't running right and That definitely helped
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 04:36 PM
  #23  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Sorry. I am stupid. The ICM ign control module. In the dist cap.
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 04:14 PM
  #24  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Installed a reman ECU (77-7165), with my same PROM. Car fired right up - sounds great. SES light immediately lit up.
Drove it about 10 miles, and checked the trouble codes at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. This is what it's throwing now:
46 -
45 -
44 -
42 -
41 -
63 -
61 -
54 -
52 -
51 -

So - it's the same codes as before, with the addition of 45 and 46 now.

Note: The guy I bought the car from said he was driving the car once when the battery tipped back, and the positive battery terminal contacted the inner fender. The car immediately died. After he told me that I thought: It probably screwed up the ECU... so I went ahead and replaced it. Nope. Didn't help.

What next? Try a new PROM?
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 06:06 PM
  #25  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Here's what I found for those codes. I don't have any above 54 for some reason.

Originally Posted by KnuckleDragger
Installed a reman ECU (77-7165), with my same PROM. Car fired right up - sounds great. SES light immediately lit up.
Drove it about 10 miles, and checked the trouble codes at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. This is what it's throwing now:
46 -

45 -

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION:

The Electronic Control Module (ECM) supplies a voltage of about 0.45 volt between terminals "D6" and "D7". (If measured with a 10 megohm digital voltmeter, this may read as low as 0.32 volt.) The 02 sensor varies the voltage within a range of about 1 volt if the exhaust is rich, down through about 0.10 volt if exhaust is lean. The sensor is like an open circuit and produces no voltage when it is below about 316~C (600~F). An open sensor circuit or cold sensor causes "Open Loop" operation.

NOTE: Because of all the possible color code combinations used on electrical wiring diagrams, always refer to ECM CONNECTOR IDENTIFICATION under ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONIC WIRING DIAGRAMS for correct color code identification of circuit.

TEST DESCRIPTION: Numbers below refer to circled numbers on the diagnostic chart.

  1. Code 45 is set when the O2 sensor signal voltage on CKT 412:
  •  
    • Remains above 0.7 volt for 50 seconds; and in "Closed Loop".
    • Engine time after start is 1 minute or more.
    • Throttle angle greater than 2% (about 0.2 volt above idle voltage)
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS:


  • Using the "Scan", observe the block learn values at different rpm and air flow conditions. The "Scan" also displays the block cells, so the block learn values can be checked in each of the cells to determine when the Code 45 may have been set. If the conditions for Code 45 exists, The block learn values will be around 115.
  • Fuel Pressure. System will go rich if pressure is too high. The ECM can compensate for some increase, However, if it gets too high, a Code 45 may be set. See CHART A-7.
  • Rich injector. Perform injector balance test CHART C-2A .
  • Leaking injector. See CHART A-7.
  • Check for fuel contaminated oil.
  • High Energy Ignition (HEI) Shielding, An open ground CKT 453 (ignition system reference signal low) may result in EMI, or induced electrical "noise". The ECM looks at this "noise" as reference pulses. The additional pulses result in a higher than actual engine speed signal. The ECM then delivers too much fuel, causing system to go rich. Engine tachometer will also show higher than actual engine speed, which can help in diagnosing this problem.
  • Canister purge. Check for fuel saturation. If full of fuel, check canister control and hoses.
  • MAF Sensor. An output that causes the ECM to sense a higher than normal airflow can cause the system to go rich. Disconnecting the MAF sensor will allow the ECM to set a fixed value for the sensor. Substitute a different MAF sensor if the the rich condition is gone while the sensor is disconnected.
  • Check for leaking fuel pressure regulator diaphragm by checking vacuum line to regulator for fuel.
  • Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). An intermittent TPS output will cause the system to go rich, due to a false indication of the engine accelerating.



44 -

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION:

The Electronic Control Module (ECM) supplies a voltage of about 0.45 volt between terminals "D6" and "D7". (If measured with a 10 megohm digital voltmeter, this may read as low as 0.32 volt.) The 02 sensor varies the voltage within a range of about 1 volt if the exhaust is rich, down through about 0.10 volt if exhaust is lean. The sensor is like an open circuit and produces no voltage when it is below about 316~C (600~F) An open sensor circuit or cold sensor causes "Open Loop" operation.

NOTE: Because of all the possible color code combinations used on electrical wiring diagrams, always refer to ECM CONNECTOR IDENTIFICATION under ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONIC WIRING DIAGRAMS for correct color code identification of circuit.

TEST DESCRIPTION: Numbers below refer to circled numbers on the diagnostic chart.

  1. Code 44 is set when the 02 sensor signal voltage on CKT 412 remains below 0.2 volt for 2O seconds and the system is operating in "Closed Loop".
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS:


  • Using the "Scan", observe the block learn values at different rpm and air flow conditions. The "Scan" also displays the block cells, so the block learn values can be checked in each of the cells to determine when the Code 44 may have been set. If the conditions for Code 44 exists the block learn values will be around 150.
  • 02 Sensor Wire. Sensor pigtail may be mis-positioned and contacting the exhaust manifold. Check for intermittent ground in wire between connector and sensor.
  • Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor. A Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor output that causes the ECM to sense a lower than normal air flow will cause the system to go lean. Disconnect the MAF sensor and if the lean condition is gone, replace the MAF sensor.
  • Lean Injector(s). Perform injector balance test CHART C-2A.
  • Fuel Contamination. Water, even in small amounts, near the in-tank fuel pump inlet can be delivered to the injectors. The water causes a lean exhaust and can set a Code 44.
  • Fuel Pressure. System will be lean if pressure is too low. It may be necessary to monitor fuel pressure while driving the car at various road speeds and/or loads to confirm, See CHART A-7.
  • Exhaust Leaks. If there is an exhaust leak, the engine can cause outside air to be pulled into the exhaust and past the sensor. Vacuum or crankcase leaks can cause a lean condition.
  • AIR System. Be sure air is not being directed to the exhaust ports while "Closed Loop". If the block learn value goes down while squeezing air hose to left side exhaust ports, refer to CHART C-6.
  • If the above are OK, it is a faulty oxygen sensor.

42 -

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION:

When the system is running on the ignition module, that is, no voltage on the bypass line, the ignition module grounds the Electronic Spark Timing (EST) signal. The Electronic Control Module (ECM) expects to see no voltage on the EST Line during this condition. If it sees a voltage, it sets Code 42 and will not go into the EST mode. When the rpm for EST is reached (about 400 rpm), and by-pass voltage applied, the EST should no longer be grounded in the ignition module so the EST voltage should be varying. If the bypass line is open or grounded, the ignition module will not switch to EST mode so the EST voltage will be low and Code 42 will be set. If the EST line is grounded, the ignition module will switch to EST, but because the line is grounded, there will be no EST signal and a Code 42 will be set.

NOTE: Because of all the possible color code combinations used on electrical wiring diagrams, always refer to ECM CONNECTOR IDENTIFICATION under ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONIC WIRING DIAGRAMS for correct color code identification of circuit.

TEST DESCRIPTION: Numbers below refer to circled numbers on the diagnostic chart.

  1. Code 42 means the ECM has seen an open or short to ground in the EST or bypass circuits. This test confirms Code 42 and that the fault causing the code is present.
  2. Checks for a normal EST ground path through the ignition module. An EST CKT 423 shorted to ground will also read less than 500 ohms; however, this will be checked later.
  3. As the test light voltage touches CKT 424, the module should switch causing the ohmmeter to "overrange" if the meter is in the 1000-2000 ohms position. Selecting the 10-20,000 ohms position will indicate above 5000 ohms. The important thing is that the module "switched".
  4. The module did not switch and this step checks for:
  •  
    • EST CKT 423 shorted to ground.
    • Bypass CKT 424 open.
    • Faulty ignition module connection or module.
  1. Confirms that Code 42 is a faulty ECM and not an intermittent in CKTS 423 or 424.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS:

The "Scan" tool does not have any ability to help diagnose a Code 42 problem. A Mem-Cal not fully seated in the ECM can result in a Code 42. Refer to TESTING PROCEDURES/DIAGNOSIS BY SYMPTOM/INTERMITTENTS.
41 -

TEST DESCRIPTION: Numbers below refer to circled numbers on the diagnostic chart.

NOTE: Because of all the possible color code combinations used on electrical wiring diagrams, always refer to ECM CONNECTOR IDENTIFICATION under ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONIC WIRING DIAGRAMS for correct color code identification of circuit.

  1. The Electronic Control Module (ECM) used for this engine can also be used for other engines, and the difference is in the Mem-Cal. If a Code 41 sets, the incorrect Mem-Cal has been installed or it is faulty and it must be replaced.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS:


  • Check Mem-cal to be sure locking tabs are secure.
  • Make sure the pins to the Mem-Cal and PROM are making proper contact.
  • Make sure part number on the Mem-Cal is correct.
  • If the Mem-Cal is defective it must be replaced.
  • It is also possible that the ECM is bad, but do not replace until all of the above is checked.

63 -
61 -

So - it's the same codes as before, with the addition of 45 and 46 now.

Note: The guy I bought the car from said he was driving the car once when the battery tipped back, and the positive battery terminal contacted the inner fender. The car immediately died. After he told me that I thought: It probably screwed up the ECU... so I went ahead and replaced it. Nope. Didn't help.

What next? Try a new PROM?
Reply
Old Mar 19, 2014 | 06:06 PM
  #26  
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird
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Transmission: 700R4-4L60
Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

54 -

CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
The status of the fuel pump CKT 120 is monitored by the Electronic Control Module (ECM) and is used to compensate fuel delivery based on system voltage. This signal is also used to store a code if the fuel pump relay is defective or fuel pump voltage is lost while the engine is running. There should be about 12 volts on CKT 120 for at least 2 seconds after the ignition is turned, or any time reference pulses are being received by the ECM.

Code 54 will set if the voltage on circuit 120 is less than 2 volts for 1.5 seconds since the last reference pulse was received. This code is designed to detect a faulty relay, causing extended crank time, and the code will help the diagnosis of an engine that "Cranks But Will Not Run."

If a fault is detected during start-up, the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light will stay "ON" until the ignition is cycled "OFF". However, if the voltage is detected below 2 volts with the engine running, the light will only remain "ON" while the condition exist. the fuel pump test connector is located in terminal "G" of the Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) connector.

52 -
51 -
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 07:57 AM
  #27  
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From: Chasing Electrons
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Transmission: check
Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Originally Posted by KnuckleDragger
Installed a reman ECU (77-7165), with my same PROM. Car fired right up - sounds great. SES light immediately lit up.
Drove it about 10 miles, and checked the trouble codes at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. This is what it's throwing now:
46 -
45 -
44 -
42 -
41 -
63 -
61 -
54 -
52 -
51 -

So - it's the same codes as before, with the addition of 45 and 46 now.

Note: The guy I bought the car from said he was driving the car once when the battery tipped back, and the positive battery terminal contacted the inner fender. The car immediately died. After he told me that I thought: It probably screwed up the ECU... so I went ahead and replaced it. Nope. Didn't help.

What next? Try a new PROM?

O'Reilly's scan tool is not interpreting the data stream correctly. The next thing to do is to blink out the codes and see what is really there.

RBob.
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 03:32 PM
  #28  
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Car: 1989 GTA and 1969 Dodge Charger
Engine: 5.7L...blah! It's a 350 baby!!!
Transmission: Automatic
Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

SERIOUSLY? What the...?
Just went out and "blinked out" the codes (paper clip/SES light) and it just goes between codes 12 and 33.
Why was O'Reilly's code reader so off? I even went to 2 different O'Reilly's.
Grr...
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 03:39 PM
  #29  
rgrking's Avatar
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Originally Posted by KnuckleDragger
SERIOUSLY? What the...?
Just went out and "blinked out" the codes (paper clip/SES light) and it just goes between codes 12 and 33.
Why was O'Reilly's code reader so off? I even went to 2 different O'Reilly's.
Grr...
Because they don't pay the 40k for the factory testers that show the real codes.
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 05:03 PM
  #30  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Originally Posted by KnuckleDragger
SERIOUSLY? What the...?
Just went out and "blinked out" the codes (paper clip/SES light) and it just goes between codes 12 and 33.
Why was O'Reilly's code reader so off? I even went to 2 different O'Reilly's.
Grr...
Code 33 is a MAF error, which fits in with the issues at hand.

RBob.
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 05:13 PM
  #31  
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Transmission: Automatic
Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Since I've already replaced the MAF... should I try the relay?
Or - is the MAF possibly faulty?
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 07:33 PM
  #32  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Put a new relay in. Diconnected battery. Took ECU fuse out. Put everything back together... WITHOUT ever starting it... and it still throws code 33. How do I reset it if disconnecting the battery and removing the fuse don't do it?
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 06:58 AM
  #33  
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From: Chasing Electrons
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Codes didn't get erased. I've found with the P4 ECMs that the battery needs to be disconnected for 15 to 20 minutes, sometimes 30 minutes.

Pull the inline fuse under the hood, and make sure to keep the ignition off. After 30 minutes plug in the fuse and see if the code is gone.

Note that the ECM won't set that code (or any codes, except VATs?) unless the engine is running.

RBob.

Last edited by RBob; Mar 21, 2014 at 07:06 AM.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 05:39 PM
  #34  
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Car: 1989 GTA and 1969 Dodge Charger
Engine: 5.7L...blah! It's a 350 baby!!!
Transmission: Automatic
Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

I tried the "paper clip" blink test method. The only code it throws doing this way is 33. MAF is new, relays are new, grounds/wires/connectors are good.

Do you think its the memcal? Maybe ruined it when the battery shorted?

Right now, I can go out and start it: One time it will fire and run great (SES light on) Another time it will fire and run crappy (no SES light). Sometimes it will fire up and the RPM's bounce between 700 and 1200 (SES light on).
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 07:24 AM
  #35  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

When code 33 is active the ECM ignores the MAF input. It creates an airflow value based on TPS% and engine RPM. There is something wrong with the MAF, MAF wiring, relay or whatever.

Note that the ECM uses the TPS value as part of the MAF diagnostic, so be sure to check it too.

RBob.
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 11:35 AM
  #36  
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Transmission: Automatic
Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

How do I check the TPS? What am I checking it for?
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 11:41 AM
  #37  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 03:10 PM
  #38  
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Engine: 5.7L...blah! It's a 350 baby!!!
Transmission: Automatic
Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

That helped... but not totally. What does it mean by jumper wires? What do I jump between?
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 03:43 PM
  #39  
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Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: BW 9bolt with torsen carrier
Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

They want you to use a wire to make the connection between sensor being able to take reading off the wire. Your best bet is to download winaldl and make or buy the cable. You can view everything on your computer then... It takes the guessing away
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Old Mar 26, 2014 | 03:45 PM
  #40  
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Re: HELP! Several Trouble Codes...

Jumper wires have alligator clips on each end...
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