soarestransam

Ok everyone I seriously want to get this thing running with the ebl flash. Please be patient with me and explain everything in retard mode since I'm 100% New to this. I'm converting my 88 maf harness as I type, back to the ebl setup.

Here is my build from the top
.Stock tpi throttle body with stock tsp and iac
.vortec hsr stealth ram no porting done to intake
Accel 24 lbs injectors
rocker arms are stock gm with 1.5 ratio I believe they were from the factory
cylinder heads are gm cast iron 906 vortec heads only work done to them were open intake valves to 2.02 intake and exhaust to 1.60 no spring seat cut for bigger lift
can specs are as followed
Valve adjust intake .000 exhaust .000
valve lift .464 intake exhaust .470
.006 tappet lift 262 intake 270 exhaust
At 110 intake center line
duration at 50
intake 218
exhaust 224
lobe lift
.3090 intake
.3130 exhaust
lobe separation 114.0
Bottom end work is forge crank with i beam eagle rods with wrack piston molly rings compression ratio measured 9.6-:1exhaust is hedman shorties with y pipe no cat to borla cat back
narrow band stock ac delco o2 sensor
transmission is a 89 world class t5
rear end is a 9 bolt borg warner with 3.70's for gear ratio
tire size 245/55r16 gta cross lace
ignion stock gm external coil hei distributor with 8mm accel wires plugs are gm stock vortec plugs

this is all being run on 89 octane fuel as well if that matters so let's get the calibration started and see where we can go from there

TORN

iTrader: (17)

I see no wideband o2 on the list. You should add it, it helps a lot.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Willing to help you again, but you're the one that needs the patience though. The cam and setup are pretty mild, and with the correct starter bin as well as the changes made to it to accommodate your injectors and base timing... the engine should fire right up and do exactly as you want it to. But you need to confirm what the sensors are saying at key on before starting the engine first... both to confirm that your wiring came out correct and that they are reading okay, as well as being in good shape themselves. Once that key is turned, the engine should fire right up, and if there are any slight problems, the SES light will light up to tell you... and that is when we start making the changes to dial it all in. So, lets get started.

- Rob

soarestransam

ok so your saying I need a wideband o2 sensor how much is one of those gonna cost. People on here before were telling me that the narrowband o2 would work fine and where would I install it at does it just go in the stock location.

soarestransam

good to hear from you again street lethal yea I was pissed off with the set up before but I do need patience that's my number 1 problem. I see all these guys getting there's correctly dialed in and I'm still stuck at the beginning fouling plugs left and right.

But ok what bin do you think I should start off with is there a bin that would allow the injectors just to spray the right amount like the stock 350 tpi that way the plugs won't foul up. Another thing too why doesn't the motor want to rev passed 3000 rpm no matter what I try to do.

i know this build that I got here will be sweet when it's all dialed in right, should be a fun street car that would be able to keep up with mustangs and LS cars all day long that what I mostly want out of the thing to say that a 30 year old small block can still play with the young bucks of today and still get ok mpg out of it

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Hold off on the WideBand sensor if your NarrowBand sensor is getting hot enough and is reading correctly, You can always invest in a WB sensor later on after you get the engine up and running correctly if need be. When your engine won't rev past a particular RPM it is normally fuel (VE) or spark (SA) related. Either you're not getting enough fuel in that area, or spark is being pulled. If your EBL is wired correctly, meaning you are getting no SES lights and your sensors are reading correctly, then with a 350 or 355 engine I would recommend starting with a basic L98 bin from your selections. If you don't know which one that is just say so and we'll tell you. The main thing though is to confirm your base timing with the EST bypass disconnected. If it is 6*, 8*, 10* or 12* BTDC it needs to match the Initial SA in the bin. So please confirm that with a timing light before we even get started. Once that is out of the way, you will then indicate the injector size you're using into the bin using the EBL Utility as the calculation...

From there the engine will fire right up (assuming all sensors are good and reading correctly, as well as your Base and Initial timing using the same reference). With the engine started, this doesn't mean you can start driving just yet though, as here is where we dial in the VE table. The SA timing table is no big deal, as the stock L98 SA table would never restrict you from revving past 3000-RPM, so that can be left untouched for the time being. What we're doing at this point is the VE tuning through the VE Learn feature. However remember, for the Learn to work correctly, your Narrowband O2 sensor must be working correctly, and you must be in Closed Loop, as well as within the range you have your Learn parameters targeted for. I usually do my Learns between 180 degrees and 210 degrees, but that range is up to you in terms of where you like to keep your engine temperature when fully warmed up. Let's start with that basic and see how it goes from there...

- Rob

soarestransam

Ok rob so played on it tonight but unfortunately I need to get a new battery for the laptop since it no longer has a charge. I rewired the ebl correctly got the 5 bolt from pin c I believe on the tps dialed the tps in correctly on the middle pin to .50 volts, before the iac only had power on 2 pins but now I'm getting power out of all 4 which is a good sign. The map sensor is as well seeing 5 volt from the ecm, and the iat is getting a reading as well with it plugged in.

Im gonna get a battery for the laptop tomorrow so I can power up the laptop again I haven't attempted to start the engine yet but I still need to do timing. I'm gonna set it to factory L98 auto car 8 degrees before top dead center. I'll then start it and turn the distributor to 8 degrees while it is running and lock it down all this with the est bypassed at normal op temp. I am as well gonna delete all the old flash bins and start fresh doing all of this which bin is the 5.7 tpi stick bin or any tpi bin to have a starting point.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Start with the LB9 (305) bin w/5-speed, upload this bin into TunerPro RT V5;

EBL_F_3003.BIN

Doesn't matter if it's a 305 or a 350 bin to start with, so don't worry. Your BPC vs VAC value with your 355 engine and 24-lb injectors will be "177", so enter that new value into the bin you are modifying in that area. Save that into the bin with a new name, then upload it into the EBL. Once successfully uploaded into the EBL, now you can start the engine and adjust your base timing by hand. The factory timing is set for 6* BTDC with both LB9's and L98's, so be sure to set your base timing by hand with the EST disconnected to 6* BTDC not 8* BTDC...

- Rob

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

By this I mean scroll down to;

BPC - BPC vs VAC

... in the bin using Tuner Pro and change all of the stock 191 values to 177. The 177 value is telling the EBL that you have a 355 w/24-lb injectors @ 43-psi of fuel pressure. Don't worry about anything else just yet, just set that base timing to match the 6* BTDC in the bin.

soarestransam

Sorry for the late reply everyone I'm waiting on a new harmonic balancer so I could actually get this thing in timing correctly. Once I get that installed I will load that bin 3003 into the ebl flash and see what it does. Now for timing am I going to drop the distributor at tdc, then start and turn the dizzy til it's at 60 degrees and warmed up then lock it down.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

The 3003 bin is already set to 6* BTDC in the bin. Load the bin into the EBL, then drop the distributor into place if you haven't yet and get it as close to TDC as you can by eye. Tighten down the distributor just enough so that it can be moved by hand, but not on its' own. Disconnect the EST Bypass, start the engine (it might fight you a little at first because the timing will slightly be off, so retard it a tad until it catches which means counterclockwise). Once started, using a timing light, set the base timing to 6* BTDC to match the bin. Lock down the distributor bolt so that you can no longer move it by hand, don't kill it though, then recheck the timing again to make sure it didn't move as you tightened it. If it stood to 6* BTDC, then shut the engine. Reconnect the EST Bypass, disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Reconnect the battery, and your spark reference is done.

- Rob

soarestransam

Ok everyone got the new harmonic balancer installed I have this whole weekend off so most likely will be playing on the car let you know what I get when I'm on it

soarestransam

RBob

iTrader: (1)

During cranking the SA is at the base distributor timing.

By changing the base timing to 4° BTDC and leaving the calibration at 6° BTDC, this reduced the overall SA by 2°.

If you set the initial SA in the calibration to the same 4°, engine running SA is back to where it was.

Note that there is a calibration (included) with the SA tables for a Vortec headed engine. It would be worthwhile to take a look at the two SA tables in that BIN. The tables are based on a Vortec headed truck engine .

RBob.

soarestransam

So what bin do you think I should start with cause if I’m using vortec heads shouldn’t I use a bin to match those

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The EBL_F_3000 BIN has the Vortec Main & Extended SA tables in it. Can copy those over to whichever BIN you start with. I'd be tempted to start with the base port BIN (EBL_F_PT3 or EBL_F_PT4).

Copy the above two SA table over, uncheck the TCC flag and set the initial SA. Save BIN, flash in, and see how it is. At lower RPM it will likely be somewhat rich due to the cam. But VE Learns will take care of that.

RBob.