Am wondering if there is a rebuild kit for these motors. The situation is when i turn the headlight switch on the passenger motor comes up, the driver side seems to lag then will pop up and go down, pop up again and go down. Sometimes it will lock in, most of the time it will not. I have read that theres a plastic gear that will strip and i am assuming that it has in the motor. Also it makes a real nerve wracking noise when the lights go back down when i turn the lights off - except when its raining. I assume again the moving parts are not lubed and thats the reason for the noise... I went to GM today and they want 200.00 per motor, the only other option i can think of is a rebuild kit - which they don't sell or a junk yard piece. Any ideas?

 

if you have no problem removing them yourself, I would recommend a local rewind shop...guessing, maybe 15-20 bucks apiece for cleaning and new brushes.

Best of luck!

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Duffster (age 32)
BEAT DOWN HARD 88' Camaro Sport Coupe,
1978 Caprice Classic 305 motor havin'(WITH NO COMPUTER),Torker II intake, Edelbrock 1406,600cfm w/vacuum secondaries,Accel HEI Supercoil/Cap/Rotor Sparkin',84' POS 700R4 Tranny usin', 84' Z-28 Nose clip wearin',
84' Z-28 Hood covered,
AND THE TIRES:
245/60-16 Firehawk SS20 on Firbird rim(1-passenger rear),
235/55-15 BF Goodrich's on CompTA's on Z28 rims(2-on front),
235/60-16 Pirelli P600 w/a curb check or 3 also on Firebird rim(1-drivers rear),
REAR HATCH MASTER OF ALL!!!
DuffsterCamaro@HOME.COM
Owner of the Camaro 0 out of 10 Third-genners approve of, no longer part of the non-existent Iowa crew.

 

i've heard there's a plastic gear inside that strips over time--someone said if you take it apart and flip the gear, so it's using the other half of the gear it'll work fine--hope I explained that right.

 

Had the same problem with mine a while back. Assuming you already checked the motor and there is nothing wrong with it, the problem could also be the plastic pieces that connect the big gear to the control arm. They tend to shred themselves to pieces thus giving you that erratic motion. You can take the unit apart and use some 3/8 inch(approx.) metal bushing cut to lenght to fit inside between the lobes. You will need 3 of them about 1/2 inch long.
It's hard to explain but once you get into it you will see what I am talking about.
That fixed my problem, good luck.

 

I had the same problem. The three plasic pegs got shredded. They provide enought resistsnce to make the light raise, but then slip so that the motor does not burn it'self out. I found some 1/4in. rubber tubing and cut it to the right length. then stuffed something inside of it to give density. I have had not problems sence then (about a year). If that's not the problem, I don't know what is.

 

I've used 3- 10 milimeter nuts with RTV for a little give, work great!

 

Same thing happened to my buddy also and it was the gears. If you wnat more info, check out some of the fiero sites. One of them has detailed instructions on how to fix the motor.(cause the motor in a Fiero and TA are the same)

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'91 Z-28 5.7, SLP 1 3/4 headers, 4 inch Mufflex/Flowmaster cat back, gutted cats, Edelbrock intake, 8.5mm Jacob wires, MSD Blaster coil, S&W subframe setup, Jacob Pro Street Ignition, complete Kenwood system.

 

I'm having this same problem now. I've heard that someone makes brass gears to replace the cheap plastic ones that wear out. Does anyone know who? I've heard that you can use them in corvettes also (which I believe have the exact same motor) I'm desperately looking for these brass gears. Please email me at cjb@ghg.net.
Thanks

PS- I don't think flipping the gear helps, it spins all the way around.