TPI fuel pump power?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,059
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From: Woodbury, NJ
Car: 87' Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
TPI fuel pump power?
My fuel pump has been giving out on me at idle.
I can drive around at any speed, go WOT and everything is perfect. Response, power, etc etc. However once I come to a dead stop in gear my car idles for only about 15-30 seconds before stumbling, shaking, RPM drops slowly before stalling out completely.
In park the car idles 750 with no load, in drive it idles 550.
Someone told me that it could be my oil pressure sender reciever or something? I checked my Chilton's manual and the TPI pump is somehow part of the oil ciruit?
Anyone tell me what is going on? We have let the car sit in gear at a dead stop and let it stall, checked the float, its empty. We know with the key in the "ready" position that with the sight glass on the float out it leaks out a little. So I know my float is SET perfect, and that in idle the float is not being kept up meaning the fuel pump must not be working. The fact that the car drives around perfectly means that something is wrong with how its wired up.
Can I run a line directly off my battery to my fuel pump and have a put a switch in my dash so that I can just get 12v power all the time for my pump.
When we wired it up we just traced the power for the fuel pump to the driver side under the carpet. Then we kept on useing a voltmeter and as soon as we found a 12v power source that came on when the key was put in the "ready" position we tapped into it. When I put the key in the ready position I hear the pump turn on. The car starts up, however once you drive around and then come to a stop at a light it will stall. Every time, without fail it will stall in gear or neutral after driving then coming to a stop. Any ideas?
Thanks,'
Dave
I can drive around at any speed, go WOT and everything is perfect. Response, power, etc etc. However once I come to a dead stop in gear my car idles for only about 15-30 seconds before stumbling, shaking, RPM drops slowly before stalling out completely.
In park the car idles 750 with no load, in drive it idles 550.
Someone told me that it could be my oil pressure sender reciever or something? I checked my Chilton's manual and the TPI pump is somehow part of the oil ciruit?
Anyone tell me what is going on? We have let the car sit in gear at a dead stop and let it stall, checked the float, its empty. We know with the key in the "ready" position that with the sight glass on the float out it leaks out a little. So I know my float is SET perfect, and that in idle the float is not being kept up meaning the fuel pump must not be working. The fact that the car drives around perfectly means that something is wrong with how its wired up.
Can I run a line directly off my battery to my fuel pump and have a put a switch in my dash so that I can just get 12v power all the time for my pump.
When we wired it up we just traced the power for the fuel pump to the driver side under the carpet. Then we kept on useing a voltmeter and as soon as we found a 12v power source that came on when the key was put in the "ready" position we tapped into it. When I put the key in the ready position I hear the pump turn on. The car starts up, however once you drive around and then come to a stop at a light it will stall. Every time, without fail it will stall in gear or neutral after driving then coming to a stop. Any ideas?
Thanks,'
Dave
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,896
Likes: 1
From: Warrington, PA USA
Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
The pump gets power 2 ways, from a relay and from the oil sender. The relay energizes when the key is turned on feeding 12 volts to the pump and after approx 4psi of oil pressure is reached that switch closes providing an additional path for 12 volts to the pump. You may a scenario like this, possibly a bad fuel pump relay and the sender may just be gunked up from age enough to require more oil pressure to close it and oil pressure at idle may not be enough to keep it closed. Fuel pump relays are a very common problem on TG's, I am on my third one. The classic symptom with the injected ones is it takes several cranks to get it to fire up. The injected ones prime the fuel rail for 2 secs when the key is first turned on, then the relay turns off and turns back on when it senses distributor rotation. After 4-5 psi then the oil sender closes also. When the relay fails you have to crank it to get the 4-5psi to energize the pump.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,059
Likes: 0
From: Woodbury, NJ
Car: 87' Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
When the ignition is turned ON the PCM energizes the fuel pump relay for two seconds, allowing the fuel pump to build up pressure. The PCM then checks the Engine Coolant temperature (ECT) sensor and the Throttle Position (TP) sensor. During cranking, the PCM checks the crankshaft position signal in order to determine the proper air/fuel ratio for starting. The PCM controls the amount of fuel delivered in the STARTING Mode by changing how long the fuel injectors are energized. This is done by pulsing the fuel injectors for very short times.
Can I just diretly wire my fuel pump to 12v power? Put a switch in the dash? I don't understand what could be wrong< i get fuel when driving, why in idle would it fall off?
Last edited by StealthElephant; Oct 30, 2003 at 03:15 PM.
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