I just bought an 89 RS L03 T5 and It runs great, the thing is when I got it home I stalled it out then went to start it and nothing happened. Th ecar has been sitting for over a year. When I turn the key the security light goes out after2 seconds and all the gauges work. When I attempt to start it the Temp gauge pegs out but nothing. I hear no clicks nothing. I manually jumped th starter from under the car and the car fired right up and stayed running. After searching I know the VATS disables the starter AND the fuel injectors so I don't think it's my VATS. The starter relay is all melted a little so I think that is my problem. If not that then I will assume it is my ignition switch.
Heres a recap:
-Starter works great
-Engine starts(VATS is fine) stay's running
-Relay slightly melted<----PROBLEM
-If ignition switch was bad wouldn't the car not stay running or the gauges not peg out?????
-Was working, started the car like 10 times yesterday then nothing???
-Clutch switch fine
Does this sound right???

 

Replace your starter enable relay, that is where your problem is. Also check your wiring to it. The VATS disables the starter through the starter enable relay.

The Trickster

 

I got the new relay but I have not installed it yet cause of the temp outside. However I put a test light to the thick yellow wires going to it and turned the key to start and non of them had power. I also checked the fusible links coming from the distribution junction by the battery and they are all fine. According to my wiring schematic, those thick yellow wires should have power to the relay when the key is turned to start, whether or not the clutch is pressed in or the VATS is en/disabled. Would a bad ignition switch cause the yellow wires to not have power and still make my temp gauge max out for the bulb test?????

 

Ok,

according to my schematics, both there is one yellow wire that comes off the ignition switch and has a second yellow wire spliced into it. One goes to pin "C" of the starter enable relay and one goes to pin "E". To test the starter enable relay, do the following. Disconnect the starter enable relay connector, jumper pin "A" (dk green/white wire) & pin "E" (yellow wire) with a fused jumper wire. If manual transmission, depress clutch pedal and turn key. If car starts, replace starter enable relay.
I forgot to mention that it is normal for the temp gauge to peg out when you first turn the key to start.

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!

 

There is No use in bypassing the relay cause I know there is NO POWER to the thick yellow wires no matter what. I know that the temp gauge is supposed to peg out when you start it and mine is, but I know that there should be somekind of power to those yellow wires when cranking. I have no juice at all, ever. I think it's cause of the ignition switch. Maybe the little solder on the switch for the crank circuit is broken I am in the process of removing the old one but it is like impossible to get into the column. How hard is it to replace the switch???

 

Switch is mounted ON the column, topside of shaft, under the dash. Its' activated by a metal rod that runs from it to the ignition tumbler in the column. Easy to get to...just drop the column. You'll see it and the dimmer switch mounted together on the topside.

Very good possibility its' your problem. If its' gone bad or slightly out of adjustment, it can cause the symptoms you're discribeing.

 

Thanks, I just did a search on ignition switches and found all the info I will need to change it, plus the exploded view of the column which shows that the switch is actually on top where you say it is. Makes it a whole lot easier to change than ripping into the column.

 

I replaced the ignition switch last night and adjusted it perfectly. Now the relay is clicking on and off and everything is getting power. Just wanted to thank Trickster and Fairly Strange for your help I would have been searching forever for the switch.