ignition wires
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: boone grove
Car: 1991 pontiac GTA, and a1992 pontiac firebird
Engine: 5.7 l98, and a 3.1 for now
Transmission: 700-r4s
ignition wires
im having a little bit of trouble with my ignition. around six months ago i went out to start my car, and i got nothing but accessories coming on. no starter noise, didnt turn over, nothin. so i figured the starter was junk, so i changed it. still had the same problem, so i tried the ignition module, the problem persited. eventually i found out form a friend that one of the wires that connects to the ignition lock cylinder (there are two, and they are tiny) was probably broken. so i tore apart the column, inspected the wires and found one broken. i sotered (? is that how thats spelled) the wire together, and it worked, for a while. then last week it broke again, so i tore the column apart and decided to put whole new, and bigger wires in. big mistake. now i the bigger wires will not stay sotered to the smaller ones. is there any way to bipass those two wires? is there another way to fixx this?
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,739
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From: Beaufort South Carolina
Car: 1983 Camaro Z/28
Engine: LU5 305 CFI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: J65/G80/G92-3.23
What you're dealing with is the VATS key security system.If you look at your ignition key you'll notice a small chip in it.If you want to tryrepair your wiring by soldering the connections,first you need to tin - run a bead of solder on the ends of all four wires before you try and reconnect them.This way all you have to do is heat the solder for the wires to pull together.You other alternative is to replace your ignition switch with a new switch like you have.YOu may be able to bypass the security system,but for that you'll have to do a seach on here or maybe someone will pass on that info.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: boone grove
Car: 1991 pontiac GTA, and a1992 pontiac firebird
Engine: 5.7 l98, and a 3.1 for now
Transmission: 700-r4s
it isnt that i need practice sodering, im pretty good at it. it was just extremly hard to get at the wires in the coulmn, and they would soder together, but becasue of the thickness of the new wires they caused to much drag on the wires and would pull apart after only a few pulls. so i bit the bullit and bought a new ignition lock cylinder.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 20
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
You can disable the VATS all together if you wish.
Measure the resistance on the pellet in your key, go get a resistor with the same value, and solder it in place between the two wires (on the car side, not the lock side). Here's the tech article:
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/vats.shtml
The link below shows the 15 possible resistor values - if you measure close to one of these, that's the resistor to get.
http://www.12vp.com/info_resistors.htm
Then, all you ever need is the old normal key without the pellet, a $1.49 key instead of a $20+ key.
Measure the resistance on the pellet in your key, go get a resistor with the same value, and solder it in place between the two wires (on the car side, not the lock side). Here's the tech article:
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/vats.shtml
The link below shows the 15 possible resistor values - if you measure close to one of these, that's the resistor to get.
http://www.12vp.com/info_resistors.htm
Then, all you ever need is the old normal key without the pellet, a $1.49 key instead of a $20+ key.
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