trunk pull down probs on 87 vert
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Rio Grande NJ
Car: 1987 Iroc Convertible
Engine: Bone Stock, 66,000
Transmission: 5 speed
trunk pull down probs on 87 vert
I am having a problem with my trunk pull down unit on my 87 IROC convertible and have a few questions.
I took the unit apart yesterday and followed instructions found on TG.org to service it. While taking it apart, the instructions led me to believe it is a for a 88-91. Is the wiring in my car compatible with this unit?
Once apart the only problem I found with it was it needs new nylon guides.
I took off the reversing switch and applied 12 volts to the motor. It functioned perfectly in both directions. Is there a way to test the reversing switch and also the striker sensing switch?
And finally, can anyone tell me what this switch is for in these pics? It has two prongs on the bottom that do not appear to have had anything attached to them, their color is evenly dull unlike what it would look like had there been something attached and removed.
I took the unit apart yesterday and followed instructions found on TG.org to service it. While taking it apart, the instructions led me to believe it is a for a 88-91. Is the wiring in my car compatible with this unit?
Once apart the only problem I found with it was it needs new nylon guides.
I took off the reversing switch and applied 12 volts to the motor. It functioned perfectly in both directions. Is there a way to test the reversing switch and also the striker sensing switch?
And finally, can anyone tell me what this switch is for in these pics? It has two prongs on the bottom that do not appear to have had anything attached to them, their color is evenly dull unlike what it would look like had there been something attached and removed.
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
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Re: trunk pull down probs on 87 vert
1. You don't need new guides. I haven't been running any in the 3 years or so my pulldown has actually been WORKING and don't have any problems, except that sometimes the latch is out of alignment with the hatch hoop.
2. There is a way to test both switches. Using a DMM, close the contacts on the striker switch and see if it closes/opens. However, the reversing switch is different depending on whether it's in the up or down position and I don't know what to tell you there, not having a factory manual.
That last switch seems to me it's aftermarket for an alarm/security system and possibly the hatch compartment light. Either way it's DEFINITELY NOT factory. I have never seen one of those on any of the parts cars I have seen that still have their pulldown units, nor mine.
2. There is a way to test both switches. Using a DMM, close the contacts on the striker switch and see if it closes/opens. However, the reversing switch is different depending on whether it's in the up or down position and I don't know what to tell you there, not having a factory manual.
That last switch seems to me it's aftermarket for an alarm/security system and possibly the hatch compartment light. Either way it's DEFINITELY NOT factory. I have never seen one of those on any of the parts cars I have seen that still have their pulldown units, nor mine.
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