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No crank no start ls swap

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Old Jan 27, 2019 | 08:49 PM
  #1  
JCS94's Avatar
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From: Newburgh, IN
Car: 89 Formula WS6
Engine: LQ4 h/c/i
Transmission: TH-FO-HUNNIT
Axle/Gears: 3.73
No crank no start ls swap

hey guys, I have a no crank no start issue. I have included the wiring diagram I am dealing with for reference and can’t understand what the issue is. I have battery voltage at the black wire of the starter, and battery voltage at the red wires of the ignition switch. I have bypassed VATS by connecting the dk green/white wire with the yellow wire, bypassed the PNP switch by connecting the dk green/white wire and the purple wire (th400), so it’s pretty much one wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid. At the yellow wire with the ignition in off and run, I have .01-.03V; but when I move it to start, it just pegs to 0V and stays there. I just replaced the ignition cylinder and the ignition switch last Thursday and today I noticed some hack job wiring from the previous owner in the terms of splicing into the yellow wire from the ignition switch to the starter enable relay, and running it as a 12V switched source for a cooling fan switch. I can’t tell how he rapped into it because of the mile of electrical tape around the wires but he did tap into it. I have continuity from the yellow wire all the way to the starter solenoid so I don’t know if it is a bad new ignition switch or if I installed the safety cable onto the switch wrong and it is preventing starting? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all!!



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Old Jan 30, 2019 | 10:30 PM
  #2  
Dartht33bagger's Avatar
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From: Oregon
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: L31-R 350 w/ EBL P4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: No crank no start ls swap

My guess would be a short to ground somewhere in the hack wiring job that the PO did to the yellow wire.
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 05:58 PM
  #3  
JCS94's Avatar
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From: Newburgh, IN
Car: 89 Formula WS6
Engine: LQ4 h/c/i
Transmission: TH-FO-HUNNIT
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: No crank no start ls swap

Originally Posted by Dartht33bagger
My guess would be a short to ground somewhere in the hack wiring job that the PO did to the yellow wire.
i tested for continuity to ground and it showed OL on my meter so it is not shorted to ground. I was in the process of wiringbin a switch panel so I am just using that and I got it to crank. But now I have another problem... I took the wires from the C100 connector that provided the signal for tach, oil pressure, ECT, and VSS, and hooked them all up to the wires they are supposed to be provided from; and when I was cranking it to start last weekend, it never showed oil pressure and the tach never moved at all. Does anyone have input on why these didn’t adjust? I’d like to confirm I have oil pressure before I try and start the motor, even though I’m positive it had pressure...
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