Crusader

iTrader: (1)

I've been trying to fix the hatch motor for over a month. When I got the car, the motor worked, but started showing issues. Got to the point where it would just run and run and never move. Order new guides and a gear, take the whole thing apart (including part of the motor you're not supposed to take apart and saw part of the internals break - put them back together and hope for the best) put it all back together again and nothing. No attempts to move/activate, just dead silence. Find a used, worked when pulled entire assembly (housing in good shape, everything there but the switch that lives next to the latch itself) - put that in and still nothing. Find a blown 15 amp fuse, replace and still no motor working. Try to test with a volt meter, sparks and blows the fuse again so it seems there is power back there. Replace the fuse and still dead in the water. The remote unlock switch works perfect, I can lock the latch with a screw driver and it pops open no problem with the dash mounted switch or the key, just nothing from the motor. Could the aforementioned switch be the culprit (worked before I had unplugged the motor originally) and can these be fixed? Or does someone have a known good one to sell (Checked Top-Down Solutions and he doesn't have any listed on his site currently). The full meal deal rebuilt units with everything from TDS are out of the budget and I am getting tired of fiddling with this silly thing...

Any help is greatly appreciated!

NINÅ

ikeepitreelz

I had a smiliar issue and couldnt figure it out. SO, had an idea that i remembered from troubleshooting other vehicles with a good working from another but not working when plugged in the problem car. I looked at the connector itself and closed the small tabs in the female pigtail and also made sure the pins on the hatch down motor were either straight or at least slightly bent up since that is where they sit more pressed against the pigtail once its connected. slight chance of that working for you. If you do find out what the issue is post the solution so other people with the same issue can read. HIGHLY recommended, get a power probe.

Crusader

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info, if I get around to messing with the power motor I will check into that. A little update, I had another frame (junk yard pull my father in law grabbed for me) that was missing the motor parts but had the striker switch in it. Wired in the junk yard switch to eliminate that possibility and nothing (still sparked and blew a fuse when I used my $6 harbor freight special volt meter to try and check for power so it seams power is getting to the pigtail at least). Well, the junk yard frame happened to be welded in the down position so I ground out the three mounting bolts slightly to give it some extra adjust-ability and am using it as a manual hatch now. The elongated mounting holes make it so I don't have to slam the thing as hard as I can to latch it and it still seals like it should. The remote unlock still works and at least my trunk is latched and locked again.