dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Hello everyone, I am selling my SBC that I had built up for a Procharger setup a few years ago. Getting rid of it because I want a more mild LS setup. This was just too loud for what I am looking to do with the car now. Looking to make the car something I can commute 30 miles to work in everyday. I need better gas mileage, so LS seems like the way to go. I will also be selling the F1 head unit, 2 pullies, inercooler, piping, pypass valve, a C&S aerosol blow thru carb. All in other listings. This is just for the motor. $3500 o.b.o. I can make a package deal if other things I am selling are wanted as well.

I want this to be as clear an up front a sale as possible. If you have any questions and are a serious buyer, please PM me and I will send you my cell # and we can talk about any details not listed below.

The basics are listed below:
Steel 350 Block - Bored 60 over. This makes it just under a 390 c.i.d. now.
Was a 383 but then when I had the motor torn apart for the forged dished pistons a small scratch was found and we punched the motor out a bit more to get rid of it. All clearances done by reputable shop near me called SMG Motoring. I can provide contact info if desired. 4 bolt main caps. 50 miles since rebuild.

Aluminum Trick Flow heads:
These heads have CNC ported combustion chambers. Apart from that they are just a solid Al. head. They came as you see them from Tricklfow with the 1.50 roller rockers, trick flow push rods, and double springs. ARP bolts used throughout.

Crank:
Forged 4340 Steel crank from Eagle. 5k miles on it since new.

Rods:
Eagle Forged H-Beam connecting rods. 5k miles them since new.

Pistons:
Diamond forged dished pistons. -18cc. 50 miles on them.

Intake:
Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap in the Endurashine finish.

Water pump:
Aluminum reverse rotation (used for TPI brackets) water pump off eBay. Had it on the car for the Procharger setup. 50 miles.

Oil Pan:
Moroso 7 quart oil pan. 5K miles.

Cam/lifters:
Cam specs are something I need to find still, but it was a custom grind for this setup with a LSA of 114° and extra duration on the exhaust side. Will keep looking for this. Lifters are hydrolic roller retrofit lifters.

Other:
ATI Super damper, SBC poly motor mounts, 16-AN inlet thermostat housing, fabricated Al valve covers, Summit double roller timing chain. Al. cover.

Pics of it all:

dennisbernal91z

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Additional images:

dennisbernal91z

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anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Were you gonna run a blow-through carb?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I was running a blow thru carb for the 50 miles I had the motor in the car. Then got married, bought a house, changed jobs and adjusted plans for the car.

I want to dive into the world of LS, so I am purging all my SBC parts.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I was running this carb:


Still need to list it for sale along with a ton of other stuff.
Aerosol 750 Holly DP set up for blow thru. Cost me $1200 new. Since it is still basically new, I will eventually be listing it for $750 obo.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Give me a heads up before you post the carb.

-- Joe

pancherj

Joe is too fast for me! I'd be interested in the carb too. Joe gets first dibs.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I have decided to list the carb on eBay first.

I tend to list small things on eBay that won't be a huge pain to ship.

Big things on here and Craigslist.

I will be putting the F1 head unit up on eBay soon too. I need every penny I can get trying to save up for a new LSA to replace my SBC blower setup.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Side question: Would the motor be worth more torn up and sold off as components? I can do that if it would be a more attractive option for people.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

That's always something I wonder myself.

I wouldn't buy a complete motor. I'd buy a bunch of parts I could inspect and measure.

Especially the block, if I could check each cyl with a bore gauge, etc.

What's the parts value if all the stuff was bought new ? I'm thinking like $4,900 including machine work.


-- Joe

Robbie_S

So you're going with an LSA? Just for my own curiosity, why the LSA and the LT4? I say this because I am in a similar boat. Doing a LT4 swap with my brother. The first engine we looked at was the LSA. But the LT4 with a 8l90 is just slightly more money. And for 650hp, it gets good fuel economy when paired with the 8 speed.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Hey Robbie - I figured the LSA would be easier to add to the third gen since it is a wet sump system. That being said I just jumped over to jegs.com and saw that they sell a wet sump manual setup for $21,315. Just a bit over the $19,257 I would have payed for the LSA. $2,058 more.

You make a great point that this motor would make 650HP out of the box, no need to pulley it like I would have to with the LSA.

I am still doing body work on my project car so I am at least 1 or 2 years off from purchasing, but I think you may have just changed my mind! Thanks!

As for the parts of the motor if purchased new, I will compile a list and post it up.

Robbie_S

Linginfelter makes a pully kit for another grand that ups everything to 750. I spoke to their tech and they have fitted it to the motor/trans I am going to be using without touching anything. That vehicle has over 6k miles driving on it with no issues. I am going to try and document everything that needs to be done to make the motor fit. If I were to go with the 4 speed trans, I believe it would fit right in without having to cut into the tunnel. But the 8 is bigger around the housing, so it will require some work. Not many people have used the LT4 yet in swaps. Information is lacking.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Block = $50, easy to find old truck block like this.
Forged Eagle bottom end = $2,040
MLS head gasket = $74
Trickflow AL heads = $750
RPM air gap intake (endurashine, chipped in a couple places) = $425. Plain = $259 (for ref)
ARP head bolts = $39
Fabricated valve covers = $65
Trickflow 1.5 roller rockers = $290
Machine work to block = $1,500 (about what I paid, not cheap, but that's what prices are around here, at least for me)
Water pump (Al) = $75

This all adds up to $5,300. Take out the machine work to the block and you got $3,800. If people want to start to pick the engine apart for components, I guess I will entertain the idea.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Robbie - Super agree there is little about the LT4 setups being used. They are amazing motors though.

My tunnel is already cut up a bit for when I was installing the shifter for the T-56 I had.

I am going to get the body to be undercoated, and in primer and custom interior components made to fit the minitub, THEN drop the hammer on the motor. Hopefully by then I will have sold all this other stuff to help offset the cost.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Oh and awesome knowing there is a kit out there to bump the LT4 up if need be. I think I will be leaving it alone. Just trying to make a super fun "get to work when its nice out" car.

Robbie_S

I was torn on cutting fenders on it. I feel like the wider tires would be a big benefit given the power train. But, I decided against that. Maybe in the future, but we'll see how it handles first before I go cutting and flaring. It'd be nice if you could fit the trans without having to cut anything further. Did you have to do anything to the lower area by the radio, or center counsel? I really want to try and keep things as factory, or factory looking, as I can.

The car will be a daily driver, or close to it. It will see a lot of road time and miles. Racing on weekends, power tours, car shows, and random canyon runs.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

The 93 T-56 fit with no issues behind a SBC on my PA racing K-member.

What are your plans for PS? Dirty Dingo brackets and all that?
I hope that in the next couple of years some comes out with a cleaner solution to PS than what this article shows.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/insta...eries-engines/

Robbie_S

Yea... I haven't looked into it very deep yet. I do hate what those brackets do to the front of the engine. Pace makes a kit that doesn't look awful. http://paceperformance.com/i-2386951...t-p-s-a-c.html

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

That Pace setup looks amazing!
Not 100% clear on how it gets installed, even after I read everything on the website.
I would love to not have to pull the crank pulley on a torque to yeild bolt, something you have to do with the dirty dingo setup. They need you to swap crank pullies.

Anyways, it is years off that I need to sort out these details. Not going to worry about it now.

Passed the idea by the wife and she is on board! Probably the most important thing.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

May be interested in the waterpump, what brand is it?

86CamaroDan

gah. If it was a 1 pc RMS i would be all over the short block.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

WP is a no name eBay aluminum unit. Reverse flow for TPI serpentine brackets. Also have those for sale with AC delete pulley.

dennisbernal91z

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After much consideration I actually think I will keep things simple and lower cost so I can finish the car sooner.

I will go with a simple LS3 connect and cruise since the cost is something I can cover more easily. Then later add a sc if needed.

Robbie_S

What ever gets you enjoying the car! At least the LS3 is easily upgradeable later on. Hopefully the rest of the car is, or will be, built for future power. Nothing sucks more than having to buy parts twice! And the install should be easier and cheaper with that motor.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, ready of the car should be ready for more power if I decide to add it later.

car currently has a Mouser 12 bolt, chromoly ds, 4 point, sfc, tubular suspension components, and i will be buying the ss Holley dual exhaust setup.

good luck on your build.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Anyone interested in my C&S Billet Aerosol Carb it is listed in eBay here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/C-S-900-Aero...r/122684365741

Let me know if you have any questions. I will be posting it in the for sale section as well.

Would anyone be interested in any components from my motor?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Dropped the price of the carb $50. $650 OBO

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

bump. I will most likely start to consider parting the motor out.

Maybe sell it as a short block, heads, intake, water pump as separate listings.

soupman

iTrader: (1)

What price is the complete engine?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

$3,250 obo for everything all in.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

quite interested in the engine.

I have hoped to build/buy a traditional sbc engine making around 450-500 hp NA, and then hit it with a 150 nitrous shot. the prices I have encountered online for the engine itself are mostly in the $9k-11k range. Totally out of my budget for this years projects, and I am in NO emergency rush either.

I read this post over a few times, and have a few questions about how this engine would act without the blower setup... as a NA engine, and with the occasional nitrous blast. I don't recall reading your cam specs (if you had found them yet) and if that would work for my application. compression ratio and head flow streetability? what power/torque was the engine making naturally aspirated? i can see that the engine was assembled in 2012. I would think at minimum I would need a different CAM and heads setup for NA and N20 hits, so theres that. also, unsure if the ring setup and gap would be optimal, same for the dished pistons. if those wouldn't work, Id be better off starting from scratch with a Dart SHP block instead right?

anyone else who knows or can shed some light on this besides dennis, please jump in. I am in New Jersey, about 3.5 hours from you. (my 13 year old goodwrench crate 350 with TPI and small N2O shot just aint competitive how I wish it to be at events. I have a ProBuilt automatic 700R4 from Dana at ProBuilt automtics.. rated for 650/675. but still the stock 10 bolt with 3.73s). I have DynoDon's 1.75" headers and Y-pipe to a 3" hooker cat back. I will install one of the new Holley Sniper, FiTech, or FAST 2.0 intake systems on this or whatever engine I end up with to help with reliability, tunability, etc.

you describe it as a race motor in a few of your other TGO threads, and that really isn't something I want. I NEED to be able to drive it a few hundred miles at a time (to camaro nationals in MD, and out to Carlisle PA, maple grove, upstate NY etc), but also to run 1/4 mile, autocross, road course, and idle perfectly at car show events, in traffic etc. If it is a full blown "race" engine setup, no can do. I need a powerful street engine, so I just wanted to see what you and everyone else may have to say about how this engine would fulfill that goal. thanks Dennis and anyone else who might shed any advice to this

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Hi IROCzman15: I have not located the cam specs yet, but to be honest I haven't been looking. I have been working on my build pretty non-stop for the last couple months.

That being said, I built this motor to make power. I drove it to work and back, as well as car shows. That was before the second rebuild. The second build was to simply take the blower.

I had it built by a dyno tuning shop here in MA called SMG Motoring. If I can't find the cam specs, I think Fred the owner, might have them on file from 2012.

Since the motor has been sitting since it was rebuilt, I would think you would want to break it down, and build it back up with a nitrous happy cam.

I will look for the dyno sheet NA. Again, maybe Fred has this. That being said, NA a blower cammed motor won't make crazy power since it has lower compression, since boost needs to be added. I still have the blower, in case you want to go that direction.

As for the heads, I don't see why they wouldn't be considered a street heads. They are nothing fancy, just some entry level AL heads from Trickflow. CNC combustion chambers.

If you are set on spray, I would think this motor could work with a cam and pistons swap. Both fairly inexpensive when you consider a standard issue rebuild in the works.

Going new block is always going to be more desirable, but there are hidden costs that show up once you get into it. I researched all this before I had this motor build, and again before I decided to go LS3.

Buying a bare block will need final machining, most of the time, then you need to buy every last part that goes into making a motor. It adds up. Piston and a cam made more sense for me. Might make more sense for you.

If you want, we can talk over the phone if you have more questions. Just PM me and I can send you my cell #.

You are not super far away, so you could swing by and take a look at the motor if you want.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

thanks for the quick reply. I have actually been following your shetmetal surgery and body work thread and it is truly quite a heck of a job you are doing thre! good work there man!


I was almost thinking the same things that you replied with.. in that it would need a teardown and different spec parts installed. Im going to stick with the nitrous setup since it is plumbed and wired in the car and all I would need to do is run a different plenum/intake plate and maybe longer lines with a few different fittings. it is a bummer that this engine prob wont work for me. I do wish you luck with selling it, and at a price like that, someone should bite on it if you list it on other sales media sources.

this is basically the direction I want to go:
http://www.nyesautomotive.net/406_525hp_EFI.html

sorry to sidetrack your thread. I do appreciate your reply. Good luck with the final build of your car. it will surely turn out awsome

CRAMOS78

wow, actually about to do the same. i had been following your build for years. i have a 393 cu myself and just got a 6.0, LSA blower, hooker/holley mounts, trans mount, headers, 4l80, and A.C.!!! :thumbs:
good luck on your sale/ build

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Bump. Starting to think the best way to sell this motor is to take it apart and sell components.

Thoughts? First motor I will be selling.

Rocket-Doc

iTrader: (11)

Let me know the cost of the heads if you decide to part.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Definitely parting it out.
Heads new were $1200.
They have about 5,000 miles on them.
I think $700 OBO plus shipping is reasonable. I can take pics and give more fine detail as needed.

Will most likely list separately in the next month or so.

Rocket-Doc

iTrader: (11)

Are any of the threads on the heads screwed up? I'm only asking because the last set of used heads i acquired were trashed... We are both in Illinois, I'll probably send you the shipping ticket on an account to help offset the cost. Pics would be nice if you don't mind, I'll msg you my cell number so it's easier.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Hey Rocket-Doc. Seeing this post makes your private message make a LOT more sense. I didn't know why you sent me your cell till now. Haha.

OK, back to the heads....

What threads are you referring to in particular?
The AL plug that is stuck, was from Summit and I think I used the wrong size allen to try and remove it years ago. I figured I would try and remove it again, before the sale was final. Worth more, more perfect.

All other holes and details have not been messed with. The heads were put on my motor new. Sitting on there since then. Never removed.

We are not both in Illinois! I am in Massachusetts. I think shipping heads would not be cheap.

Anything you want me to show you that the pics above don't? I can take more pics once I get the heads off this weekend.

Rocket-Doc

iTrader: (11)

Yeah I'm not sure where I read Illinois... oops... If you can get them boxed I can use my work shipping account to mitigate the cost.
As far as threads go, I was talking about the exhaust bolt holes and the intake bolt holes. The D-Bag that owned them before me jacked a bunch up and I had to heli-coil them. Heads work fine, but it wasn't enjoyable to figure it out until the motor was in the car.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Oh got it. All the threads on these are mint. No worries there at all.

I can take more images this weekend when I take the heads off the motor.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

OK, motor is down to the long block now.

How it sits now with all the oil and coolant out of it.


Shot of one of the forged dished pistons


Shot of the long block flipped over. Tried ripping off the oil pan gasket...


Close up of the ARP connecting rob bolts


Can see the cam down there, and some of the clearance work done to the block for the 383 kit.


One last shot from another angle


What do you guys think this long block is worth? There is also an older ATI fluid Damper on the crank with an aluminum timing chain cover. Double roller timing chain in there as well.

I was thinking maybe $2,700. The forged kits start just south of $2k. Then there is the cam and all the other parts, plus a lot of machine shop time in the block. Cost me $3k just for the machine shop time.

The long block is a 390 due to the shop finding an imperfection in a cylinder wall so they pushed the bores out just a bit more. That is why it is a 389.5 (technically) and not a 383.