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Reality of this engine buildup im doing.....

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Old Jan 11, 2004 | 02:48 PM
  #1  
MarkB's Avatar
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From: Oregon
Car: 1982 T/A -1986 Z28
Engine: 383 -305
Transmission: T56-700r
Reality of this engine buildup im doing.....

okay,so the L69 in my 84 is on its last dying leg {cracked a ring land with a nitrous mistake}

so ive decided to go ahead and just build a new motor for it,specs are as follows this is a 383 stroker

71 350 4 bolt block,brand new vortecs{modded with springs and clearanced for more lift} comp XE284 cam,performer rpm airgap polished ,eagle steel crank,eagle h beam rods 5.7 length,gear drive,moroso 7 qt kickout sump oil pan,high volume/press oil pump,1.6 roller rockers,750 mighty demon carb {edit}

the pistons are forged 10.3 to 1 flat top 2 valve relief's,and i do intend on using my edelbrock N20 kit on this motor,in the neighborhood of 150,possibly 200 shot.

wutcha think of the practicality of this motor? streetable and al lthat goodness,im not concerned about MPG,just good street manners,this is a "get me by" motor until the summer when i hope my 406 buildup will be done,then the 383 will go into my Iroc.

also,i have a wct5 in my 84 right now,with a 4.10 rearend,dutchman axles,locker and richmond gears,i know if i run the t5,its gonna go out,everyone is telling me to go for a automatic,but id like to stay with a stickshift,im thinking t56,how long would a T56 hold up behind this kind of motor? i dont ABUSE my car,but i do put it through its paces on the street and the strip.

any and all comments apreciated and helpful,thanks

MarkB

Last edited by MarkB; Jan 11, 2004 at 02:50 PM.
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Old Jan 11, 2004 | 04:13 PM
  #2  
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From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
I think a T56 would last awhile as long as you aren't completely trashing on it doing like 5000RPM launches and such... The one thing I don't like about your combo is the camshaft. Is mostly motor your concern? or do you want to see greater gains while on nitrous?
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Old Jan 11, 2004 | 05:21 PM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
i wouldn't use a HV pump nor an intake from edlebrock. parts breakage is very dependent on how you apply the power more so than how much you actually have.
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Old Jan 11, 2004 | 05:31 PM
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From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Well, with vortec heads he doesn't really have a whole lot of choice. I don't know of any company that makes vortec intakes besides Edelcrap and GMPP.

My rule is that I don't use any Edelbrock part that moves
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 01:29 AM
  #5  
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From: Oregon
Car: 1982 T/A -1986 Z28
Engine: 383 -305
Transmission: T56-700r
Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
I think a T56 would last awhile as long as you aren't completely trashing on it doing like 5000RPM launches and such... The one thing I don't like about your combo is the camshaft. Is mostly motor your concern? or do you want to see greater gains while on nitrous?
nah,wont be doing 5k dumps.


id like to see some insane HP on the bottle,but its not required persay. the 284 just seemed like a decent cam,what would you recomend?

i wouldn't use a HV pump nor an intake from edlebrock. parts breakage is very dependent on how you apply the power more so than how much you actually have.
why a no on the HV pump? and the intake isnt actually an edelbrock,this is what i purchased... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2450423909


a cam recomendation anyone? i dont have emisions here,and i dont need a ***** computer cam,or a in general puss cam.
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 03:25 PM
  #6  
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
I think you'll be happier with a smaller cam. Go one step down the ladder. The N20 is where the big boost in power comes from, so there's no point in trying to get another 15 HP out of the combo in NA form with crappy street manners when you can just spray it a little more.

I agree that an HV pump is a mistake. You only need 10psi of oil pressure for every 1,000 RPM. Anything beyond this is a waste of power. A stock pump, or the famous GM Z28 pump will be more than up to the task.

The T56 would be fine. They are damn near bulletproff. Run a Pro 5.0 shifter, and use a trans out of a '94-'97 F-car (the aftermarket ones are made in Mexico, and haven't earned a good rep for strength).

I've had no problems with Edelbrock stuff. Right now I'm running two of their intakes, one of their carbs, and one of their water pumps. Zero complaints about any of it.
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 03:46 PM
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ede
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use a melling m55 pump with the mr gasket #26 spring installed and a solid oil pump drive shaft
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 04:41 PM
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Yes, definitely run a solid driveshaft. That plastic collar is crap.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 07:27 AM
  #9  
kevinc's Avatar
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by ede
use a melling m55 pump with the mr gasket #26 spring installed and a solid oil pump drive shaft
I'm starting to like the Melling M155. Same displacement as the M55, but has a bigger 3/4" pickup tube instead of 5/8".

Not sure how many liters/minute the 5/8" tube can flow, but GM's direction with the gen-2 engines suddenly became bigger 3/4" pickups so I'm presuming they found the limit.

This is one of those can't-hurt things.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 08:18 AM
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ede
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only differance is more oil flow? one of the concerns with the HV pumps is moving the oil more creats more heat in it not to mention keeping most of the oil on the top half of the engine. the m155 sounds interesting but i'm going to wait till i see more results from it. i've run m55 s in a lot of engines for a lot of years. there's a m99 i think Hp and HV for a SBC that takes a 3/4 pick up
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 08:25 AM
  #11  
kevinc's Avatar
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
It's a tough call as to whether it's needed...the pickup tube can only flow as much as the pump gears pull, but at high revs it seems likely the gears can pull more than a 5/8" tube can flow. The pump's driven off the cam so it's turning 1/2 speed of the crank.

I don't like the usual +25% volume HV pumps either, even for road course racing, unless there's additional pathing in the oil system...like a pair of turbos or a big oil cooler.

I've seen an M155 disassembled and it's literally just an M55 casting with a different base plate (bigger pickup hole). This is what has me thinking someone did the math on 5/8" tubing flow capacity and determined more was needed.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 10:58 AM
  #12  
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ede
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ok so the big question now is the price the same and what's the pn for the pick up?
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 11:39 AM
  #13  
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Summit has the pump MEL-M155 $30, screen is part# M155S $10. Not sure if it includes just the std pressure spring or also the high-pressure spring.

The MEL-M55 pump is $16, screen is $10.

The M155 pump costs $14 more.
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 01:03 PM
  #14  
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From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
While these guys teach Oil Pump 101 I'll go back to the original questions

If this was my motor I'd put a solid cam in it but this will require you to have guideplates installed so you could use non-self aligning rockers. Heres some cams I'd consider

Mainly nitrous-only. This cam would probably be the slowest on motor and quickest on the button (solid):
-Crane Powermax F-288-2:
-Adv Duration: 288/298
-Duration @ .050: 248/258
-Gross lift: .500/.520
-Lobe Seperation: 114 degrees

Good inbetween cam, would work great on motor and on nitrous (solid):
-Crane Powermax F-280-2
-Adv Duration: 280/288
-Duration @ .050: 244/252
-Gross Lift: .518/.536
-Lobe Seperation: 112 degrees

If you're dead set of a hydraulic cam then you could use those recommendations as a guideline. You don't want to go too far over .500 lift because vortecs peak out and don't flow much after .500. Stick with a cam thats in the 112-114LSA range if you really wanna feel the button.
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 12:21 AM
  #15  
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From: Oregon
Car: 1982 T/A -1986 Z28
Engine: 383 -305
Transmission: T56-700r
gdamn guys,thanks for the oil pump info

im awair of that whole 10 psi of oil pressure for every1k rpms,personally i think thats BS...i like having lots of oil pressure,peace of mind.

i dont really needddddd a high volume,but a good all around pump that puts out some pressure is preffered.


as far as a cam,ive decided on the comp xe274

anybody gonna guess what this motor might put out? and turn down the strip?

t56 with 4.10 gears,car weighs 3300 pounds

any other thoughts,suggestions,ideas?
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 12:24 AM
  #16  
88IROC350TPI's Avatar
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From: Pitman, NJ
Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Should be able to go low 12's pretty easily.
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