Lo-tec

Kurt, I think the blue 3-pin connector in your photo is for the MAP sensor (pass side firewall).

kboehringer

I think my MAP is located on the D.Side firewall just next to the Knock Module. I could be wrong.... I'll take a close up photo of the stuff on the D.Side Wall (that stuff is all hooked up). I'll post when I get home from work.
Thanks for helping...Kurt

Firebreed

Kurt here is my CC, along with how my Canister is set up with vacume lines i dont know how help full some of the pictures will be for you but here are all the pics i have taken of my cc unit in the engine bay.

Brandon

Lo-tec

I was close... the three wire blue connector is for a barometric pressure sensor, looks just like a map sensor. It should bolt to the lip of the cowl right above the connector.

kboehringer

LT1Guy,
Thanks for the tip on the muffler shop. We should be driving in about a week or two. He'll be one of the first stops!
FireBreed,
Thanks for taking the time to snap the photos! We should have little problem hooking it all up thanks to your Pics. I'll download them and bring them out to the car.
Lo-Tec,
Thanks for the Bar Sensor and Service manual info. We'll need to buy one of those baro sensors this weekend.
SilverPanther,
Thanks, the previously plugged connection between the Dizzy and Carb now provides the vacuum for the air vents etc. (one of the few systems that now seems to work inside the car).
BruceEmbry,
We can keep an eye open for a harness if you like. We go junkin' almost every weekend. I'm still looking for buttons for one of the other TGO guys but haven't had any luck yet. We'll be spending a bit more time looking at interiors from this point forward. Although, we still need a Baro Sensor, a Power Steering Hose, and an air cleaner we can adapt to our Crossfire Hood.
Five7Kid & DaveCs1,
Thanks a million for the assist with the CompCam. That sucker sounds mean as hell just sitting at an idle. I'm sure she'll perform well (once I complete proper tuning of the carb). I called Flyitlikeyoustoleit and put the cell phone in the exhaust. He seemed to like the sound....

I really can't wait for Derek to get home on Saturday! I'll make him submit a reply to TGO. I'm sure he'll be extremely excited. We still have a ton of work to due "WIRING, WIRING, WIRING" almost nothing electrical works except the turn signals. No Headlamps, No Hazards, No Dash Lighting, No Wipers.... the list goes on and on. I have the '86 pigtail from the firewall to the fuse panel. Tomorrow night I'm going to try to "Re-Map" the '82 interior stuff to the appropriate locations on the '86 fuse block......WISH ME LUCK! To avoid another "Shocker" I'll disconnect the battery!!(LOL)

Thanks again,
Kurt

flyitlikustolit

so it sayeth in the great f-bible, in the book of camaro, chapter Z, page 28, verse 82:

"...and the keeper of the camaro bade me listen, and so i did. His was heard by all who would be awakened by the roar of such a hellious demon. I heard clearly the call of eight healthy cylinders, and the beast did roar such a mighty sound, as to bring a great smile to my face. I was filled with overflowing glee, and the thoughts of many burned pilafs yet to come, and it was good."

flyitlikustolit

cliff notes' version: that f*cker sounds MEAN. i like it

kboehringer

You are a piece of work! I still can't stop laughing! Even the wife got a kick out of that!!

Firebreed

Kurt if you need any more pics of anything for the early thirdgens, ill see if i have that part on my car and take some pictures of it as well, We gotta keep these early ones on the road cant wait to hear what Derek's response to seeing the z28 up and running.

Brandon

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Not that you should go this route necessarily, but this is about as clean as you can get a cruise control. You probably don't want to add wiring up a different cruise on top of the issues you've already got in front of you.

sellmanb

Kurt and Derek. There is an 82 Camaro in my local junkyard that seems to not be picked apart all too badly. There's also an 86 base model sports coupe there that has some of he main parts of the motor picked out. If there's special wiring or anything that you may need stuff from (pictures, parts, etc) shoot me a PM and I'll head down to see if I can pick it out for you. My local u-pull doesnt allow cameras but I conveniently just bought a camera phone


Great job, but you gotta leave a little bit of the "fun" stuff for Derek

BruceEmbry

Yes please keep a lookout for the harness.
The CC-Carb setup requires the Baro Sensor in order to properly run. The air cleaner that you are looking for should come from ether an LG4 powered 82-83 Trans-AM or Z-28.

BruceEmbry

Hi,
Did you reconnect all of the wires back to the starter motor. For the 82s the main 12 volt supply to the fuse block comes from the Positive battery connection at the starter.

There are two wiring harnesses that connect from the balkhead connector in the engine compartment to the various items. One of the connectors are just for lights. the other connector has the wires for the instruments, Positive battery feed, tech etc. You should go to the j-yard and pull these two harness from another 82-83 Comero.

kboehringer

Bruce,
We're still using the '82 lighting cable segment (right side of D.Wall connection) as the '86 signal lamps were different. I have been studying all the wires this evening and trying understand and make a plan before I start hacking stuff up. I have connected all the wires to the starter that were on the '86 harness (two) in addition to the battery cable.

NOTE: I am using the original '82 3-wire alternator. I set up the jumper from the red bolt-on to jump to the red on the 2-wire push-in connector on the alternator as I have seen on multiple later model 2-wire F-Bodies. The red primary "Power Wire" on my '82 harness does not seem to differ from the '86 in any other way. I still have the remnants of the '82 harness and am trying to make heads or tails of it right now.

Derek is getting home tomorrow I want the lights to work!!! It'll be an all-nighter!

Sincerely,
Kurt

kboehringer

Lo-Tec and TGO Friends,
I'm pulling my hair our with the MAP sensor and Baro Sensor. I have read through my manuals (2) and find no description or explanation of the baro sensor. I am sure we have a MAP sensor hooked up on the Driver Firewall with the Vacuum line going to the rear of the carb as indicated on Sellmanb's routing diagram.

I just went to the J.Yard and found two sensors mounted on the pass side cowl lip both look just like the MAP I have on the D.Side fire wall. However each WAS connected to a green 3x connector like the one we have "OPEN".

Do the MAP and Baro look similar?
Would a Carb'ed. car have both?
If they look similar, how do I tell them apart and make sure I have the right items?
Do they both get manifold vacuum?

Thanks in adavance...
Kurt

Firebreed

You know what, i got the same sensors on my drivers side firewall and i also have no clue what they are, but they are hooked up, Ill snap a few pictures of it for you, once i get enough coffee in the system. But keep in mind, my Engine compartment is dirty, i use it for my daily driver.


Brandon

kboehringer

Brandon,
According to Haynes....

I can find NO description and NO photo of the BARO SENSOR in Haynes or Chiltons or the TGO Boards. I am now certain that I just purchased two more MAP sensors as the numbers are the same on the plastic castings fo all three (3).

Photos would be great!

Sincerely,
Kurt

BruceEmbry

Sorry post didn't show up corrently

sellmanb

Kurt, I believe you should read this post

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...rometer+sensor

Vader is the man

edit: and this one

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...rometer+sensor

Firebreed

Kurt I hope this is what you needed, if it isnt let me know and ill go snap a few more pics. Carefull with the clips they tend to break easly as well. Oh and please look over the dirt, My cars a daily and i havent had a chance nor the energy to clean it yet.


brandon

Klortho

That looks like the same MAP sensor that is on my LT1

kboehringer

Brandon,
The item on the right side (with the hose) is the MAP sensor. The small item on the left of it is a relay. The relay could be for; A Fuel Pump (unlikely as you have a carb?), Cooling Fan, or the Air Conditioning Compressor.
Thanks,
Kurt

Firebreed

Yea i got a Rochester Verajet carb, Its basicly a Quadrajet cut in half, If you need any other pictures of anything, ill see if i have it and take some, Btw how has the wireing come?

Lo-tec

1-yes you do

2-they look IDENTICAL

3-No, only the MAP sensor

Sorry I didn't put it in with my previous post, they look identical except that the BARO sensor input is open to atmosphere. So if you were in colorado visiting 5-7 kid, it would adjust the air/fuel mixture due to the high altitude and lack of air. Since my baro sensor is no longer in my car but in a box somewhere, I can't verify they are the same part # tonight, but if they both interchange (can plug each into the other connector) I would say you should be OK. I can verify it for you monday at work.

kboehringer

TGO Guys

When I got home today i was actually a little surprised that my dad had gotten our Z28 started. It was really cool to hear the car finally started after all the hard work we put into it. Today my dad and i worked on the wiring in the car so that we could get all of the lights and electrical things to work, I was puting the cover panels back on in the car. We also put the power steering pump back in. Even though we hadn't got the power steering completely running perfectly, took the car on a test drive, and it sounded great. My dad even stopped and let me drive it, which was really, really fun. Thanks for all of the help on getting the camaro up and running, and if anybody has any more info about the car, it will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Again

Derek Boehringer

flyitlikustolit

yes, yes i am. and since that's much better than what my ex calls me, I'll take that as a huge compliment.

derek: did your test drive give you a taste for more? that was my biggest motivater for continuing to work on the car..... the first test drive.

kboehringer

TGO Friends,
I pulled the '82 wiring pig tail out of the wall and spent a lot of time studying the differences compared to the '86. On the Left Side (from inside facing the firewall) I added the wires that were missing. One of them is for the cooling fan (tan - we haven't found one yet) and the others I don't know yet what they are for. Figured we better add 'em all and leave them in a loose bundle to add to the fuse block or make easy connections later. I also moved a Big Red Pair over a space or two to align with the '86 set-up (Thanks for the info Bruce!).

The wiring on the right side (facing the firewall from inside) is absolutely identical '82 vs '86. NO changes were made. The right side is the major lighting segment (head lamps, etc.)

We haven't checked everything, but the headlamps, dash lighting, and a bunch of previously inop items now work. I still plan to remove the '82 fuse block and remap all the wires to the '86 block (including the extras we added to the pigtail).

Still more electrical to do but good enough to take a test drive.

Thanks
Kurt

kboehringer

Lo-Tec,
Thanks for the additional info.... I found a post in another forum that mentioned that they looked "Similar" and that lead me to believe that there was a difference. It would seem reasonable, that a sensor that can measure minor differences in intake vacuum could also measure barometric differences. The connectors are the same shape and style in both locations. I installed an additional (MAP/Baro) in the location the hose is not connected to it. The thing that added confusion is that in some F-body applications the MAP is in that location. If you can verify they are the same part# that would be great.
Thank You,
Kurt

kboehringer

TGO Friends,
I'm so damn excited after yesterday's drive I dont know if If I can keep my promise to Nancy....Derek and I are supposed to do only house work today.

The Z-28 is REALLY NOT ready for driving (as you can see) but we took her around the block and all went well so I took her over to the mini-mart to get some air in the tires. The ride was a little rough as the power steering pump is probably no good (it use to squeal like hell with the 305) and steering was difficult. I felt the brakes worked very well and therefore let Derek drive it home (about 2 miles). He was VERY VERY VERY scared.... He's never driven anythng like the Z-28. Even though the carb is MILES out of adjustment and we may might have burned through a plug wire (#8) on the header. It has incredible power!

The nose will be installed once Derek gets a coat of "Rattle-Can" gold on the rear edges. We've had soo much rain and humidity we haven't been able to spray it. Our nose is red (from a J.Yard Z-28) and we don't want red peaking through the gaps or inside the hood area after we paint the entire car.

We're going to try.... although probably half-heartedly, to comply with our promise to Mom to work around the house.

EXTREMELY EXCITED!,
Kurt

kboehringer

Oooops...Here's the photo... riving:

sellmanb

Cheers!

wgripp

iTrader: (1)

That's awsome! I remember the first time I took my GTA for a drive (about a month and a half ago, lol). I just touched on the gas and the tires sang to me! Then a couple weeks ago I was in the DMV. The inspection guys were trying to drive it. Squeal, squeak. Freakin punks donno how to handle my car properly, I was mad! These cars definately have power, and it can be a scary thing.

Heck, the first time I picked up my girlfriend in the GTA, I stepped on the gas a little bit and screeched all the way down her road, completely unintentionally! Lets just say her mother had a few select words to share with me the next day (and my girl is 20!)... and it was totally an accident!

I guess that's what I get for having a Honda as my daily driver.

Good luck Kurt and Derek. Enjoy the car! And come work on mine if you dont mind getting paid in a couple ice cold brews!

wgripp

iTrader: (1)

P.S. At first glance without hte front bumper, your Camaro looks kind of like an 80s import. I was like... Isuzu Impuse? And then I saw the rest of the car.

speedingpenguin

iTrader: (1)

congrats on getting the car drivable! Its so much fun driving a 3rd gen, especially one you've spent MONTHS of hard work getting ready to drive :-P
Can we expect to see a picture of the car that looks more like this sometime soon?


LOL j/k

reminds me....i gotta get a pic of my..........donation.......to the city roadways today, LOL

net_coma

iTrader: (3)

Dudes....looking great...dont't forget to post one of the paint and two smiling faces in front of it...going to let Mom dirve it..just once?

wgripp

iTrader: (1)

it broke my heart to let my mother drive my car

speedingpenguin

iTrader: (1)

it'll probably break my CAR if i let my mother drive it, LOL







j/k......sorta......

Hey, just one more advantage to having a noisy, uncomfortable car with a shifter thats difficult to get into the gears, LOL...she doesnt WANT to drive my car, LOL

kboehringer

TGO Friends,
Mom has already made it clear that she IS going to drive this to work one day. Since she has put with all the Bathroom Cleaning and Dirty Clothes Washing she has the right to take it to work one day (only about 8 miles away). She's been telling her co-workers about the project and they want to see it also.

Yesterday we kept our promise (sort-of) and really only spent an hour or two on the Z-28. We spent most of that time cleaning tools and tossing extra parts. Tonight we're going to try and tune the carb properly. We also need to verify that the computer, systems are working as they are supposed to.

As I see it we have only a few things left to accomplish to FINISH this Engine Swap project:
#1 Tune the Carb Properly.
#2 Verify the computer is Operating Properly.
#3 Rectify the few wiring/power problems that exist.
All of these items are related and inter-related to one another.

Hopefully, we can get these final items resolved this week and take a REAL test drive next weekend.

Lo-tec

Current GM part #'s:

Map: 16231141 (old #'s 16006834,16054920)

Baro: 12219931 (old # 16006835)

They are different, but look the same. If you still have questions PM the #'s on the parts you have and I can run the #'s to see which ones they are.

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

Kurt and Derek,
I'm hoping to have my TA swapped over to the non-CC HEI and Holley later this week (worst case next week), so if you need any of the "leftovers"...intake, thermostat housing, sensors, etc...you will be welcome to them.

kboehringer

LT1Guy,
I think we have all the sensors except the one for an electric cooling fan. Since we have not been able to find a cooling fan and shroud it's not too important. If you will need any extra hands let us know, we'll be there in a snap!

Derek didn't feel good so I spent the whole evening alone trying to sort out the wiring under the dash.... WHAT A MESS! Got a few more things operating that previously did not, but not everything. It's possible some of the guages (Oils Press & Water Temp) are bad. We'll swap out with a J.Yard item.

Tomorrow Derek and I will jump under the hood to re-adjust the carb and verify proper dwell times on the Mixture Control Solenoid. We'll also check the Oil Pressure Sender and Temp Sensor to see if there is any voltage there....

See ya'll
Kurt

P.S. Maybe we can get it to work like speedingpenguin suggests in his modified photo.....

kboehringer

The numbers we found were only 7 digit..... Stamped directly into the top of the item. We have three (3) different numbers. We could find no other numbers on them.

We hooked up the dwell meter to the lone Green connecter and got a dwell meter reading that changed as the car warmed up. However, the test indicated in the Haynes manual (cover carb and watch for a dwell change) had no effect.... More trouble shooting to come.....IF IT EVER STOPS RAINING!


Thanks,
Kurt & Derek

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

I am pretty sure as long as you have two functioning map sensors you are in good shape. I am not sure of the pinout, but you should be able to check both by applying a vacuume to the port and making sure the voltage slowly (raises/lowers) as pressure decreases. Make sure there are no gaps in the signal. The ECM is just using one ECM as a reference for the MAP sensing engine vacuume. It just changes the KPA by a couple here and there. Basically there is a Timing table and VE map. That works like battle ship. The Y axis is KPA or pressure and the X axis is RPM. As the load changes the KPA and the RPM changes, and a value is picked out of the table for timing and the mixture solenoid. I would not spend alot of time on the barometric sensor. If your worried about it go buy a map sensor for your car and stick it were the barometric sensor goes. It will work.

Personally if gauges become and issue I would look into making a panel and using some aftermarket gauges.

1. They come with instructions.
2. They are way cooler.
3. Probably more accurate.
4. Derek will learn a ton.

If you get stuck on lights and wipers I can draw up some schematics and send them your way, but those could be simply wired up with some relays and quality switches.

Thats just my take on the whole thing. You will probably have more hair in the long run.

kboehringer

DaveCS1 & TGO Friends,
You mentioned a couple months ago your prowess with electrical and we may be burning up the DELL with wiring questions before too long. We replaced the '82 fuse panel with the '86 Panel. MAJOR PITA getting those connectors out without damage.
We have the following working;
Tach, Volt, Gas, All of the lighting, Electric Choke, TPS, Mixture Sol. Closed Loop & Open Loop Operation (WE THINK), MAP, Baro (Not sure if it's working we'll try your test)
These items do NOT work (yet!); Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Winshield Wipers/Washer.

The Speedo works now, but is definately inaccurate. When we installed the proper tail on the tranny, the worm gear was a different color (red), than the one we had (green). I knew better when we installed it, but I had a brain fart and left it in there. The Speedo says 50+/- when we're runnning about 25+/-. The thing didn't work at all when we bought the car. We're not sure the green one is correct either. The '86 we got the tail housing from did not have our goofy MPH/KPH dual pointer speedo. We'll have to sort that out soon also, we kinda like the goofy original '82 speedo. It has a little more "Character" than a bland 0-85mph.

I (Derek won't fit) am going to get my head under the dash and look at all the wiring from below again. We've found several clip on connections and "half-***" wiring modifications that we have corrected. We may have missed a couple more. Once we have exhausted our knowledge and ability (WE'RE VERY CLOSE TO THAT END) we're gonna be beggin' for more help. But if we have more stupid modifications made under there that are uncorrected, we won't be able to make effective use of your time.

We braved a minimal drizzle today to install the nose. Derek remembered how he took off the old one and had little trouble with the install of the new one. Fortunately, he had taken my advice and put all the nose nuts and bolts into a labled baggie. Life is much easier with just a touch of "attention to detail"

After connection of all the Emissions hoses (PCV, Fuel Bowl, Canister, Etc.) the car ran like A PILE OF CRAP. We checked and rechecked all the connections for air leaks and after finding none....we can only assume we have screwed up the hoses somehow. We plugged 'em all again and the the car runs much better... definately not like CRAP just a little stinky. WE'VE GOT TO GET THOSE AIR VALVES RIGHT!

Sorry it's so long guys... we've been spending every available minute under the hood (or under the dash). The car is still louder than I would prefer so we kill all motor work not later than 9:30pm to avoid bothering the neighbors.

Sincerely,
Kurt & Derek (he's here and still awake, not a couch potato YET tonight)

Lo-tec

I would hook them up one at a time. The PCV should in no way make it run like crap. Hook that up (bypassing the other lines that run off it) and run the car. If it runs OK, plum in another hose. Etc, etc.

Oil pressure and temp sensor are single feeds from the engine into the car. Trace the wires on those. They should be easy to figure out. As far as the speedo goes, I would pull the cover on the rear, figure out the gear ratio (probably overdue for a fluid change anyway) and post it (along with tire size). I can tell you what gears should be in the trans. No big deal to change them.

Keep at it, it's almost done.

kboehringer

TGO Friends,

We have the original Computer Chip from the '86 Z-28, CCC Q-Jet, 305 we purchased the harness from. We are using a computer from an '87 Firebird, CCC Q-Jet, 305 (T/A I think) that was provided by Mr. LT1Guy. The computer is an aftermarket (refurb.) There ARE some differences in those vehicles. The computer is doing SOMETHING and we notice a difference in dwell readings once the O2 sensor gets hot and closes the loop? (I THINK....I'm beginning to understand a LITTLE) But...The dwell readings are not what the Haynes Manual says they should be. Maybe the computer is related to some of our performance problems?

We're using a GM HEI CC dizzy since the Pontiac Dizzy was not compatible with our harness. Also, the Pontiac Harness must have had a connector for an electric solenoid we do not have (on an emissions line from the front of the carb).

The Haynes Manual says these CHIPS are matched and cannot be swapped.... That seems a little odd since the guys on the other boards are swapping them in and out like crazy. What could we expect to happen if we swap the '86 chip into our computer; Engine Explodes (LOL), Nothing - In compatible, Run like a Raped Ape (LOL), Computer smokes?, Never Run.....?

Thanks in advance,
Kurt

kboehringer

That's what we do tomorrow after work!
The rear has had new oil but (for those following from page #1 of this thread) Derek has decided that the Yellow Pumpkin cover has to go.... glad he saw the light!!! I want to install a chrome cover WITH A DRAIN PLUG!!! for him and avoid more bead blasting an painting. We'll tackle that project soon!
We have a company/family open-house this weekend at the plant and it's supposed to be very hot and "Clear Skies" (NO Rain=Wipers not needed ) I want sooo badly to take this car to the plant for show & tell with Derek. A couple of my mechanics have helped with this project and we want them to see our progress. We also need to take some measurements for the Sub-Frame connectors. One of the mechanics provided the 350 4-Bolt for $50.

We have our fingers crossed that we can make the trip (about 34 miles each way). But only if I feel confident we won't need to be towed home!

Sincerely,
Kurt

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

Well, you guys have done a great job! I think you could really make things easier on yourselves though, (Just my stupid opinion)

You gave the computer controlled carb a go, and did an admirable job, but it is my opinion that there are just to many variables working against you at this point to make it an effective intake system.

Here is what this CC carb is doing for you in short order when it is working correctly.

1. It actively controls the fuel mixture at PART THROTTLE, using the O2 sensor, Map sensor, Baro sensor, CTS, pickup coil.

2. It actively controls the timing at part throttle using the same sensors

3. At full throttle fuel mixture is no longer controlled by the mixture solenoid it is mechanical.

4. At full throttle the timming uses predetermined timing maps for open loop operation.

I hope you take this as constructive criticism. I would seriously consider going to a regular carb and dizzy for the following reasons.

1. You have different heads and cam than GM ever anticipated, and you guys do not have the means to modify the chip. The maps are a shot in the dark at best.

2. You are really giving it the college try reading voltages and dwells on the sensors, but at the end of the day you really do not have the equipment to see if all the sensors are delivering the correct data to the ECM. I am not sure who would.

3. How much hair do you plan on keeping, are these hoses and wires really gaining you better driveability??? You have a good combo and from what I have read so far you know your way around a motor. Fortuneately nothing like the coomputer controlled carb should ever surface again, so in my opinion Derek is learning about an intake system he should never have to deal with again.

Like I said I am not trying to be down on you guys. It is my opinion that with your basic carb and dizzy, it sounds as if you could really line that engine out. Show Derek the basics and how good his old man is about getting the basics to purr. I wouldn't side track him with all these goofy one of carburation caviats that have arrisen from GM's horrid attempt at emissions and power.

Just my two cents take it for what it is worth.

PS. I may have some parts I could donate to the cause

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The dwell should change when going from open to closed loop. It runs at a preset level in open loop, when it goes to closed it uses the O2 feedback to adjust the mixture. One of the carb adjustments is to adjust the idle air bleed to get the proper dwell in closed loop.

The '87 distributor is different from an '86, but I don't know if that drove any changes to the ECM or PROM. Obviously the harness will be different. I don't recall seeing an extra connector on your carb, could you post a picture of it?

I did note earlier that you didn't have the canister control valve hooked up properly. I haven't seen a pic since the vacuum diagram was posted. Have you got that straightened out?

I doubt there would be any problems putting the '86 PROM in the '87 ECM. But, again, I don't know for a fact if any pin changes occurred between those two models.

The carb computer doesn't do all that much so that changes in displacement or heads would throw it that much of a curve. The biggest thing is cam overlap that can confuse the O2 sensor, but your cam is designed to prevent that. Other than the '87 ECM, I would guess that your remaining issues are fairly fundamental. I wouldn't recommend abandoning the CC system yet. Going old school would just be a resignation to the past, not a path to the future.

kboehringer

The connector I referred to in the previous post is not on the carb but rather an in-line switch or solenoid in one of the lines from the carb. LT1Guy provided most of the hoses and such from his set-up when he generously provided the CCC Q-Jet. That is where I got the item. Whatever the "Thing" is, I will post a photo of it tonight. I never attempted to hook it up. That is one of the differences that made me wonder if using the original '86 Camaro chip wouldn't be a better choice.
We are certain our deficiency lies in the hook-up of those control valves. We did purchase a Canister from the J.Yard from a Carb'ed 305 Z-28. I will post a photo of our set-up after we attempt another try at it.
We're not considering giving up on the CC Q-Jet YET! We may have to deal with another inspection next year and I think we have a better chance with the CCC-Q-jet than without.

Sincerely,
Kurt