Hey guys i just pulled the LT1 out of my 93 and its going in my 87 rs. I took the engine, transmission all accessories, the computer in the engine compartment and i disconnected it under the dash, i think there were about 6 connectors? Besides the torque arm, What else will i need from the 93 to make the motor run in the 87? thanks guys

 

VATS module, key cylinder, key.

I'd also grab:
Under hood relay box (too control fans, A/C and fuel injector fuses)
Forward harness to relay box
Radiator and fans
Fuel pump relay
Starter enable relay

 

Why do you need the torque arm out of the '93?

 

where is the VATS module located? Is there a way i can shortcut and not take the Key cylinder? and just wire it into my 87? So far I have the engine, transmission, torque arm, computer, and harness that goes through the bottom of the dash. So are you guys telling me that i need to take the colum apart and take the key cylinder? Now i am getting a little lost, being this is my first LT1 project, and i am not the best with wiring.

And i need the torque arm, so i can use the 700 tranny. also where are the other relays located?

 

Your '87 will have the same torque arm as the '93.

 

Your PCM will need a VATS signal to operate. The '87 doesn't have one. The '93 VATS module is located between the glove box and radio at the very front of the dash. Complete dash removal is required to get to it. If you remove the radio and look forward and up you will just see the bottom of it. Your options are measuring the resistance on key and installing a matching Radio Shack resistor in the wiring of the VATS module, having VATS programmed out of your PCM or purchasing a $40-50 VATS bypass module.

Torque arms are all the same 87 and 93.

'93 Fuel pump relay is behind drivers kick panel. Starter enable relay is just above passenger kick panel mounted to dash. The one with the big purple wire going to it. All the fan and A/C relays are in the under hood box on the drivers side.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html This guy should be your new best friend.

 

where can i purchase the vats bypass module? If i go that route, due i still need to pull it out of the 93? Also do i need the ignition key and cylinder? Also i forgot to ask before, are you guys cutting to connectors off the wires on both harnesss, and wiring them together that way??? I don't really need the dash lights ses lights and such to work, I would rather run mech gauges instead, will this cut down on alot of the wiring for me?

 

You'll have do a search for the bypass module. I haven't bought one. If you use one it will send the appropriate signal to the PCM. You won't need the VATS, key or key cylinder from the donor.

I kept all the wiring inside the car for gauges and lights. Ignoring them will get rid of about 6 wires, but you'll still want to identify them to know which to ignore. Check out this sight for bare bones what it takes to start engine wiring http://www.lt1swap.com/93lt1a4.htm

My opinion is hooking up mechanical gauges is more hassle than figuring out which wire is the water temp gauge feed from the PCM and such.

 

There's really only about 8 wires total you have to hook up. I didn't cut the dash harness in my GTA or the LT1 harness, but took the plugs off of an LT1 car and wired them up under the hood so I had a plug the LT1 harness into the GTA wiring for gauges. I made up a plug to plug into my original harness for injector power, ignition power going to the 4th gen underhood fusebox (again to keep from hacking up the LT1 harness) also power for the LT1 fans since I'm running the LT1 rad/fan assembly.

 

Ok another question: g - pnk - power feed from ecm ign fues #5

is G the wire on the LT1 harness, and pink the wire on my 87 underdash wire? I just don't understand where i hook it up to? After i run the connectors through the firewall what do i do with them? do i cut the connector off? I've seen all the instructions that people have posted, But i am still unclear how i am suppose to connect them? Maybe i took on to much of a project, but i would really like to do this swap myself without sending it to a shop. Thank you guys for your patiance with me, I will catch on soon i hope, I just need a little more of an explantion. thank you

 

C230 connector (blue) from '93 harness. There is a "G" molded into the connector itself to identify the wire terminal. It needs to be connected to a keyed power source. Hot whenever you turn your key to run.

If you have access to donor still get the mating connectors from under the dash. Use them as pigtails to make your new wiring connections to.
--or--
You can cut the connectors off of the 93 engine harness and make direct wire connections, but that makes it harder to keep track of which wire is which. Label them carfully as you cut them loose.

 

ecklerscamaro.com sells the VATS bypass. You need to know what code the key is. You can do this by going to any local GM dealership and ask them what code (acctually resistance) the key for your 93' is. I think ecklers has the bypasses or around $25. I swapped steering collums from a 91' to an 86' and I had to get the right resistor to bypass the module. You could also get the bypass from any place that installs remote starts. (As one is needed for installing a remote start for any GM car with the VATS module) I think ecklers has a pretty good deal because they want up to $60 for them at my work and that is with employee price (cost + 10%) Good Luck. Normally the Ignition from the VATS equipped car has an extra wire comming off the air bag and of the ignition. (white I believe... its been a while since i did that swap) I would personally swap the whole harness or buy a harness made for an LT1 swap into a thirdgen. Thats just my 2 cents... Some Pictures of the wiring and what you are trying to do will help us help you.

 

86irocu,
You're describing a VATS keycylinder bypass and not a full VATS module bypass. Yours tricks the existing VATS module into thinking the correct key has been inserted. He wants to run without having to dig VATS module out of the '93s dash. His '87 car won't have a module (began in '89) to send 30 MGhz to the LT1 PCM.

 

Sorry. I must ahve miss read it. my bad.