ok guy well i want to get rid of my TPI system cuz ive been wanting to make a good amount of power in the future.i need help on wat i need to do to take off all the fuel injected stuff and i wanna know how i can still make all my gadge cluster work with everything. i wanna do a 383 stroker later but i plan on doing the heads carb and intake first . so if uall can give me some good pointers on which heads car and intake i should get and wat else im gonna need to make this beast run later on!!! thanks in advance!

 

how much money you willing to spend? My build goal is 500hp. I bought
AFR #1040 heads, 1.52 pro magnum rockers, RPM Air gap intake, Quick fuel 750 Q series carb. But that right there your talking almost $2700 alone for those 4 things.

You could go with a vortec head and have them worked ( alot cheaper and a nice flowing head), holley 750 mechanical secondary, i think theres only 2 people who make an Intake for vortec heads and carb, and there not cheap, just guessing should be around $1500 if you find a good used set of vortecs.

Should first start with the question, how much money you want to spend, and how much power you want to make. Is it a DD? street/strip? You care about MPG? If your doing the head, carb, intake you mise well get a nice Custom grind cam in there also. Gonna be another $300 plus.

I dont see why any of your cluster gauges would not work

 

well im not really in a budget and well i dnt really plan on it as my DD. i would like it for both street and strip and the mpg is not a problem to me. i was thinking of some 195cc afr's but still not sure. is thier any other heads that flow almost the same but less expensive?? i know i need a new distributor im pretty sure im going with an MSD. and i think a 750 carb would be good.right??..wat else would i need so i can swap to carb? wat i wanna do is buy all the things from the top of the motor and put it on my 350 bottom end and mess around with it for a while until i can get for money so i can buy the stroker kit...would that also work? or would i be risking something?

 

People usually start from bottom up not top down lol But theres no reason why you cant do it the way you want. Theres a few good heads you can snag up. My personal reference and what i've read from other post, these are common, list from best to worst flow, i forgot where but theres a link that has all flow numbers between AFR, TFS, and Dart
1) AFR's
2) Brodix
2) TFS
3) Dart Pro 1 series
4) Vortecs

Seems for 383 application people go with the AFR 195cc 64cc head. Dart offers the 200cc and TFS you can get 195. The AFR flowed better then the TFS and cost about 300-400 more. If you go on the parts for sale link here theres a guy named rick who sells AFR's for a few hundred less then any manufacturer. So what i would have paid for a good set of TFS's i got AFR's for same amount, was a no brainer.

Ignition, 750 carbs i mentioned, RPM Air Gap intake unless you go with vortec head, Headers, Roller Rockers, hydraulic roller cam, Fuel Pressure Regulator unless you want to drop the fuel tank and remove the pump. I bought the mallory Regulator, cost around $95. Your gonna need a good flowing exhaust, so headers and atleast 3 inch is needed. Dont bother with edeljunk headers for a 383. You dont want a great top end but huge restrictions on the exhaust. Magnaflows are best flowing muffler. You have the stronger of the 2 10 bolt rears, but even thats not gonna withstand a 383 for long if its driven hard.

 

well im thinking of going with this stroker assembly http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B12111030/
the AFR 195cc 65cc heads rpm air gap intake with a badass custom grind cam and probly the quick fuel mechanical secondary like u mentiond..i saw ur thread and its about more less the power i want and all the things i wanted to go with

 

is an LT1 block any different than any other SBC???

 

I looked at that kit aswell. After talking to a friend who has been racing 800hp SBC mud trucks his whole life he suggested you really dont need the forged crank for the street application. All he runs is the steel cast and forged everything else. For piece of mind, hell ya get all forged, but for 500hp its really not needed. I plan to run 150 shot also, am not afraid to hurt my bottom end with the steel crank, forged pistons and rods. I spent i think $1490 for my bottom end, eagle from summit. If you have the money, which i wish i did, skip the whole GM block and buy a forged preassembled 383 aftermarket block. I think it will be around 2300ish. Few hundred more then just the assembly kit and you have an awsome piece of mind you have a stronger block.

The parts add up. My budget was 3 grand when i first initially pulled my donor motor out of the tahoe. After having the idea of a 383 that budget went out the window quick. So far i have:
$900 for a used built 700r4 rated to 800hp
$1490 rotating assembly
$850 blue print engine and assemble bottom end with ARP bolts (through a friend)
$1400 heads, upgraded springs
$81 complete 12PT ARP engine bolt kit
$325 comp cams 1.52 pro magnum roller rockers
$220 edelbrock RPM Air gap intake
$160 head gaskets
$90 complete Fel pro motor gasket kit
$109 mallory billet double roller timing chain
$430 Full MSD ignition minus box
$160 3inch electric cutout (highly recommended)
Free summit hat :P
$30 1 inch carb spacer
$280 ATI harmonic damper
$85 mellings performance oil pump
$92 Mallory fuel pressure regulator ( if you keep in tank pump )
$130 LS7 Lifters
$640 Quick fuel Q series 750cfm mechanical secondary carb
$550 Dyno Don's headers
$230 dyno don y pipe
$330 Custom grind cam from mike jones
---------
$8552 not including another 600ish for cooling the high hp sbc and little odds and ends am gonna run across.

wow i never added my parts up till now. I wish i just bought a LS1 and swapped that into my car Atleast i have a piece of mind that i dont have garbage parts, but yet i dont have nearly the top notch parts either. Hoping i have a reliable 500hp build though. HP is not cheap as i have learned this year. My car is the first build up, always wanted one from high school. I call this my 1st mid life crisis lol You can go ALOT cheaper then this am sure. My mind set from scratch was " Do it right the first time". Good luck with the build though, ask any questions you have on your mmind as i went almost a whole year with multiple choices on my build and got alot of good info and what route i wanted to go from the great guys on the board. Hoping my setup will Net me mid 11's around 116-119 traps, and 10 seconds mid 120's on NOS.

 

is an LT1 block any different than any other SBC??? Today 08:37 PMLT1 blocks are different from Gen1 blocks yes.

Also from last post. You can go Alot cheaper buying whole kits. Like i know TrickFlow says they have a complete top end 500HP kits for around 2 grand i believe. Am not sure excactly how true this is, but its there advertising. I just wanted to show you your gonna dish out good money for good HP numbers. I built mine totally from a bare block, Mixed matched my own parts after discussing with plenty knowlegable senior members and moderators from this site. And talking with comp cams, howard cams, mike jones, and members here on choosing the right cam. That was the hardest part to figure out IMO. My only main concern was the best head on the market for street/strip (minus port and polish) and a good solid rotating assembly. Keep us posted, interested in your build and numbers when you get it done. My dyno time will be in the spring. Hoping to have my car fired up and running before christmas.

 

At least you got the free Summit hat

 

would have to say that summit hat is the most exspensive hat i have ever purchased. An d i made sure i had it all greased up within minutes of opening the box it came in lol

 

the guages are hooked up independent of the engine harness; the guage cluster is hooked up to the driver side bulk head while the fuel injection stuff goes through the passenger side. you just need to reuse the senders/sensors that are on the motor now