Ok, I'm gearing myself up to swap in a fresher motor into my 1991 L98 formula. I've done several motor swaps in the past, just never on a thirdgen. I was wondering what issues there tend to be for this.

1. I understand getting the top bellhousing bolts is done from the back with extensions, not from the top of the motor. How impossible is it to get those started on reinstallation?

2. The TC/flexplate bolts are the same on just about everything, so I'm not worried there..

3. I've heard I need to remove the distributor, ok. I assume that taking the runners and plenum off is a good idea, if nothing else than to access wiring and vacuum lines, right?

4. Planning to remove the AC, and power steering pumps, then pull the motor with the acessory brackets still on. Ok?

5. Removal of radiator, for the obvious reasons...

6. Motor mounts. I have no clue how accessible these are. Anyone? Issue or non issue?

7. I can just unbolt the exhaust from the manifolds and pull them with the car, right?

8. Any other issues?

 

i just pulled my tpi 350 out this past week.. unhooked all the wires the headers i left on and the distributor doesnt need to come out just be carefull when pulling the motor.. the 6 tranny bolts the 3 converter/flywheels bolts.. i hooked onto a bracket that is in the back of the motor and then on the front drivers side on the intake i had a open bolt hole there. it was kindof risky to pullit out by the intake but i really couldnt find any other way.. also i left teh plenum and the runners intact.. piece of cake!!!

 

1: The tranny bolts are easy to get started by hand, you just can't fit a wrench up there, hence the extensions. (well they are for me, I have skinny arms)

2: no worries

3: The only reason some people recommend removing the distributor and runners is because they're easy to damage if you "oopsie". The runners are made of practically coke-can thin aluminum, so they dent easily.

4: yup

5: obviously

6: Motor mounts: non-issue

7: yup

8: a. don't cut wires..
b. thin vac lines crack easily
c. beer

 

I would leave the manifolds/headers off the engine when taking it out and putting it back in, just because of the fact that it's pretty tight in the engine bay and the engine will swing around a bit.

 

Must be pretty windy up there where you are then..

 

Watch the wiper/washer motor when lifting engine. It can easily be damaged. You might want to remove it first.

 

Good stuff guys. I really don't want to remove the manifolds while the motor is still in the car. Spending an extra 8 hours swearing at it while trying to bend those ****ing GM "bolt gaurds" off totally inaccessable places does not appeal to me.

 

Starting the bolts isn't too bad, but then again, pulling the tranny with the motor is a little more work, but I've found that it saves a lot of hassles on reinstallation.

Remove your distributor before you pull the engine. It's easy to accidentally swing the engine into the firewall and crack!

I've always left the bracketry on the front when pulling the motor - so much easier. You'll need a pulley puller for the power steering pump though.

Pull the radiator, but I found no reason to remove the a/c condensor - it's out of the way.

Motor mounts are fairly accessible from underneath - air wrench makes it a lot easier!

I pulled the motor with manifolds once, and without. It's much less work to pull with the manifolds on and drop the Y-pipe, and assuming you still have the AIR tubes and heat shields, your fingers will thank you mightily too.

 

all the engines i have pulled havent been in perfect balance plus you dont want to bash anything up. It really isnt that much of a hassle to remove them.