yaj15

iTrader: (3)

Beautiful car!

92BLKL98

I love this car, its one of the finest examples of craftsmanship I've seen. I'm still working on mine although I have not touched it since Christmas. So much work on other cars (2000 VW Jetta and a 2003 Super Duty) in my driveway. When you own old junk cars ya gotta be willing to work on them.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Thank you!!!

WOW! That is a pretty big claim. Thank you. I did a lot of learning on this project, and still have some more to come. I hope you can find some time to get yours up and rolling. So much fun!!!!

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Yes I will I work at MCRD San Diego and it's undermanned as far the clinic goes I will out it in today and see haven't been to a car event in a while been out the game for to long

indebt

iTrader: (1)

Being stationed in San Diego, is that really called work East Coast former Marine here, always heard it's beautiful out there.

Back to pics, car looks great!!! Carbon fiber t-tops?

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Well poop. Next year maybe lol

Thank you! They are wrapped lexan units

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Lol yes I'm spoiled but Iraq and afgan same no matter what coast an I'm a corpsman 12 years and counting but I been to both coast and 29 stumps thank you for your service devil ! Rah!


Don't count it out yet lol I'm only 6 hour drive to sneak away lmao

Ever plan to swap to 4th gen brake booster which is smaller and looks better than 3rd gen one ?

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

That would be rad!

No... not really. Smaller booster would be nice to show off more the shaved drivers side firewall, but not really a priority. We'll see. I'm probably gonna take a break with this car after this season... Maybe? I'd like to get my Sport Coupe up and running, so I can get my wife and kids tagging along with me to local stuff, and have a couple builds I'm gonna start in the shop in 2018 that should be cool.

Dodgeman79

What hood hindges are those?

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

They are custom made billet units... Email Eddies Motorsports. I let them copy the design of mine, and then they trashed the idea of selling them... Maybe if they get enough emails they will pick the program back up>

Beater79TA

A couple of people at Eddies now have thirdgens so there is a chance something will eventually get built.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

They have had them, and Joe has one at the shop. They made two sets, I have some pics of them, but they decided to scrap the project assuming us third genners wouldn't be willing to pony up. I only know of a small handful that would for $800+++... But if enough emails come in they might change their mind. The program is built for them.

Dodgeman79

In the corners is that just filler ?

WTR388

I'm assuming it's seam sealer.

I'm wondering how the plastic fender liners are attached without the screws that are screwed in to the inner fenders.
I'm going to be cleaning up my engine bay a bit more in the next couple weeks and would like to fill as many holes as possible.

Dodgeman79

[QUOTE=WTR388;6119241]I'm assuming it's seam sealer.

I'm wondering how the plastic fender liners are attached without the screws that are screwed in to the inner fenders.
I'm going to be cleaning up my engine bay a bit more in the next couple weeks and would like to fill as many

Idk about that. I don't think he would have used seem sealer before filler and primer

WTR388

You'd think not, but never know.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

[QUOTE=Dodgeman79;6119246]Sorry somehow I missed these questions. Its metal reinforced body filler from Bondo (3M). I used that were panels came together kinda like a panel bond, as I figured if there where going to be an area that could crack, it would likely be where two pieces of metal were welded together... I used Evercoat Rage filler over everything else, and an evercoat glazing putty for final imperfections.

Seam sealer was used only on the passenger fender to firewall as it was the only area that could not be stitch welded solid.

The inner fender liners only have two self tapping screws that went into the fender humps, so I didn't use them. At the front I did mount a screw below, and a extra push clip. I will likely modify a different fender liner to provide a little more clearance as next season I would like to be pushing a 315 up front.

WTR388

Thanks for that info. I'll be starting my spring time wrenching this coming week, big engine bay clean up is in the works... Nothing like yours though.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Your so welcome! That's why we are all here, to help where we can. Sounds like fun. I recommend you go head over heels and make it crazy!

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

I have been saying a little while now, that I had some really cool news to share.... well here it is:



Detroit Speed and JRI Shocks and Chevy High Performance Magazine have teamed up to take BADNBLK to the next level of performance, in a 3 part magazine tech article to install DSE's Speed 3 front end kit, and their Speed 2 rear suspension package!!!! That is correct I'm rocking a full DSE suspension package including custom valved double adjustable JRI shocks with billet housings... YUMMY!

DSE won't be able to run their own 3rd gen in any West Coast events this season, so I will be holding the reins, and flying the DSE flag during LS Fest West, Optima Ultimate Street Car series @ PPIR, and Goodguys Autocross @ Colorado Nationals.

Its a huge honor to be involved, and even more so to write a tech article for a magazine I have respected for many years.

If you got questions about the DSE parts I might just have the info you need as I just mounted it all up

mwfrels

June 2017 issue of Chevy High Performance arrive in mailbox yesterday afternoon. There on page 62: "Brandon Pursley mobs his Third-gen just like downtown." Congrats! You're becoming somewhat famous.

M

FormerL69

iTrader: (2)

Just thumbed through my copy of CHP and bam! There's Brandon's car. Congrats man! Your Z definitely deserves to be in print.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

I'm still not even sure I know what mobbing anything like downtown means, but I'm still smiling.

Dude thank you so much! I'm so proud.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Loading up the car and heading for a LONG over due dyno tuning session in the morning... Results and video will follow

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

I blew it up.... in GRAND fashion. Pics to follow

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Saw it on FB, nice work!!

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

"blew it up " ??!??! oh no! NOOOOOO

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

HAHAHA!!!! Right

MoJoe

iTrader: (5)

I, too, saw it on Facebook. At first, I didn't think much of it... Somebody had fun adding flames in PhotoShop. Then a closer look and REAL flames!

I share'd and like'd it to help you on your goal to a replacement bullet.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

What let go? Top end failure or bottom end blowout?

muswp1

So is just the engine a loss or is the car toast too?

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Bottom end blew rod oil caught fire from post on FB typical thing to go with stock bottom end rods are first to go

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Connecting rods came out the bottom. I haven't even pulled a valve cover to start the dissection of what happened. The road course is tough on stuff, and when your trying to keep a top spot in the class I pushed it, and may have been... TOO much haha!

Just the engine. I got the fire put out in 3.5 seconds as I love this car more than a lot of humans lol

Stock rods will not be going into the next one. You cheap out on one spot during the rebuild process and that will be the one to bite your butt.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What exactly were you doing when it let go - under power? downshifting? between gears? in a corner? in wrong gear? RPMs at the time?

Curious because I did ARP bolts in the rods of my otherwise stock LS1 shortblock. (Okay, also did Melling pump and LS2 timing set.) It shifts at 6500, had it to 7000 many times during burnouts. Been running it 1/4 mile at a time since 2011. Hasn't missed a beat.

Understand you have more cam (mine is LS6) and head (mine are shaved 317s). We both have LS6 intake? Still, haven't heard of factory rods being a common problem at this power level (rod bolts, yes).

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

And the one everybody wants to see.....

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Tim I had just come off the back straight front around 120mph, and downshifting under heavy braking, took a heavy left turn in 2nd gear, and was accelerating hard to shift to 3rd. I don't recall exact RPM things let go at, but would suspect close to 6k. Rev limiter is set at 6250 as it makes no more power up higher.

I have ARP rod bolts with Melling pump, and LS2 chain set, racing innovations tray and pick up... When checking gauges (I do this every lap on the front straight), it was 220 engine temp, and oil pressure close to 50psi.

I have no real explanation of why it let go. I have yet to tear into either to see the extent of the damage.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Tension on the rods comes from the crank pulling the piston/rod down. So it isn't so much the power that breaks them, it's the piston + rod weight x RPMs.

Engine braking is particularly hard on them. Sounds like it was stressed slowing down, and failed under power. And likely it was cumulative.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Wow, hopefully it didn't do much collateral damage to the car. Things like that can be very disappointing after all the work put into the car. Are you taking a break from it or digging straight in?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

And what I want to know is how in the world did you get such a good picture of the car on fire???

As upsetting as it is now, that is actually a really good picture! I'd frame that sucker and put it on the wall the same day the car comes back together.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

I'm under assumption that is likely what happened with it considering what I was doing. Oh well live and learn. At least I lived lol.

Coming up with a solid plan, then money, then tearing into it.

Great photographer in the perfect spot with amazing luck. Everybody elses photos is either smoke or just tiny flames.

I was mad, then sad, then just pretty much gonna use this to elevate the car to a new level and give myself a chance to improve it to be even more competitive. Sucks as this session is where I felt like I had re-connected with the car and could feel it, like it used to be for me prior to the LS, and again with changing to the DSE components. But I'm very confident in my future racing events I will do much better than I did even at this event.

IROCZman15

iTrader: (25)

that is the perfect awesome attitude to have in a situation like this

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Yes arp rods are a band aid to the stock Ls rods in drag racing stress is only underpower and short burst so arp stock rods can hold up slot more and given time to cool engine etc but with road racing the stress is constant from accelerating to deceleration but general rule is if drag and or street car you can get away with arp and stock rods and if your just tuning stock rods then only time will be against you and if your doing auto X and road racing especially and big fast tracks arp will be band aid for little time but ultimate solution is a non stock solution I would also look into doubled tapered pushrods for ultimate upper valvtrain stability as well which is another weak area in Ls engine for high rev engine seeing road course time

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

What oil pan were you using? Anything with baffles?

The LS1 CMC guys run the stock pan with Improved Racing baffle.

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Only one I can have. A pitty party ain't gonna get out there and fix it lol

Forged bottom end with a good Hbeam rods will be on tap for the next bullet. Got an recommendations?

I was running a stock fbody pan so that I could run the Improved Racing baffle and pick up. Pretty sure that is ruined

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

If your considering high rev a good quality I beam would be lighter and not major strength difference than h beam h beam is only way to go if considering boost tho

Lighter internals better response from engine

So depends on build and route you want to take I over think any build and analyze every detail

Have you thought about destroke engine ? More linear power delivery higher revs etc one of the top guys at optima ran a destroked setup not common but results are there

But
Can't go wrong with Manley or lunatic forged

skinny z

Zach asked...Much earlier DSE posted...

Personally, I still believe there's no replacement for displacement.
DSE must have their reasons though.

skinny z

I did find this.

Over-Square/Destroked

In any form of racing where sanctioning bodies ban power-adders and impose cubic inch limitations, over-square cylinder dimensions reign supreme. In these classes, engine builders will typically make the bore diameter as large as the block’s bore spacing and cylinder wall thickness will allow, then set the stroke at whatever length is necessary to meet the cubic inch limit. For example, 500ci NHRA Pro Stock engines utilize a massive 4.750-inch bore and a very short 3.520-inch stroke. *In addition to decreasing piston speed—and therefore friction—compared to an under-square engine of the same displacement, the big-bore, short-stroke architecture creates more room inside the cylinders for larger valves. Furthermore, increasing the distance between the cylinder wall and valves helps de-shroud the valves for enhanced airflow.

But wait, there’s more. *In addition to reducing piston speed and friction, a short-stroke crank has less windage because the counterweights are smaller and the outside edge of the counterweights are closer to the crankshaft centerline. This also reduces rotating mass,” Mast’s Joel Iles explains.“Using longer 6.350-inch connecting rods also allows a reduced compression height of the pistons, which reduces reciprocating mass. The result is a faster-revving engine. The torque curve of this engine is insane. It doesn’t peak until about 5,700 rpm, but it stays flat all the way to 7,600 rpm.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Depends on what you using your car for and where you NEED the power in the power band Danny had a destroked engine in c5 and won multiple times at those type of events power is needed in upper rpm range and with that type of power delivery with and new found grip more power goes to the ground and sticks low mid range power is fun for sure but in and out corners it harder to tune the suspension to get to plant but lose steam on the straights as well and since power comes on gradual as rpm increases you can be faster as well

Street cars don't see those rpms legally

That's a old term that's is very misleading to say the least
Depending on where you want the power.

Comparing the power delivery of both and you can see usually bigger displacement there will be a flat torque curve from 2k to 3k depending on camp specs all the way to 56- 65k fast intakes can carry power abut longer but usually around 7k is the limit with fast intakes and 65k for stock intakes so you have tq on tap

Destroke engines low end and mid you will Loss but how its delivered is different and it carry it higher then levels of and the HP takes over past 65k at these rpms you are moving so you do you really need all that tq past 5k rpm give or take

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I don't think an engine like mine (4.125" stroke) would be good for road course. It badly overpowers the tires and car would be a total mess under 80 mph. It is fine going to 7000 rpm with drag radials in a straight line for 1/4 mile at a time, but I honestly do believe I would destroy my engine running all out on a road course.

My friends that do road course either make a lot less power than me or have smaller cube, high winding engines. Those with high winding LS engines have to fix a lot of crap, often major. And I hate to say this, but among my friends the only cars that seem to hold together on the road coarse are Porsche.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

I don't think you would destroy engine if it's built to handle such stress

Most then likely weak top end that leads to further damage would be interested to see build sheet of those engines

200 bucks on vavletrain isn't going to cut it the bad thing about LS builds is that there are alot of people that just throw parts at engine and stick with the usual upgrades and many breakparts

Valvetrain on any LS needs to be check every 10 to 20k miles depending on Cam manufacture

Nascar, Nhra ,d1 drifting and others all utilize big bore shirt stroke no issues and that's more stress

Danny popp ran destroke and won maybe I'm bias to GM stuff and consider Porsche low blow but yea lol I see your point but only partially so have to see build sheet