kmcn47

damn, thats high for a ring kit, you coulda got a whole engine rebuild kit with pistons for around 250-75 from summit

naf

iTrader: (7)

$27 for an oil pump and pickup at AZ. Re-used the old rod. The new pump came with the little collar, which fell apart when I took the old one out. Did the easy stuff today: buttoned up the short block.



Re-ring kit came with all gaskets and bearings. Even had the viton seals for the heads, which I was about to purchase separately. I used a one-piece pan gasket though that I had left over from some other project (?) that probably runs around $20+.

The trans kit I got this time (from Makco same as last one) was packaged with each set of seals/gaskets individually bagged and labeled. Pretty handy. The last one was just a box with a bunch of random crap in it. The last one did include the lip seal install tool which this one doesn't have. Weird.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Worked on cylinder heads last weekend, mostly just taking them apart. Threw out rotators and need to order a set of shims:



Finished the trans today. In addition to the rebuild kit I had to purchase new vanes, oil pump bushings and a new converter ($120), and a filter kit with rubber gasket ($10). The rebuild kit came with the cork gasket.



As it sits in the garage:



Hope to drop the short block and trans assembly in tomorrow.

b1k1w1

Is your trans cable Speedo or electronic plug In? I have the 85 but almost all the wires in the engine bay were cut and it's the Wong trans. Good luck with the build.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Electronic for the digital dash in the 84 berlinetta

naf

iTrader: (7)

Takes some rigging to do this by yourself sometimes.



Went in pretty well.

Somewhere on the wall is my 'employee of the month' from Wendy's - Oct 1980. My bronze star is, um, not sure...





Altogether a good day, except when I found out my TV valve had not been reinstalled correctly and had to pull the valve body back out. Maybe an hour + killed there.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

your making me jealous man!!! I'm soooooooo ready to drop my new motor in its not funny

kmcn47

well atleast you kept the important things where everyone can see em lol, jk great progress and way to go restoring an original beauty

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

why didnt you paint the trans before it went in?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Heads done. Picked up the shims I needed from the local NAPA shop (total $4) and got some advice from the shop guy. Put them together and dropped them on. Had to pull the eight retainers I needed (threw out the rotators) from an old set of 998s I had laying around. Used the lift to put them on, no sense in straining:



Harmonic balancer was $35 from RockAuto. Got 2 sets of 30 each lamps for the tails and markers for $17 too. Oh and I should have attached the trans cooler lines before dropping the trans/engine in. That was a good hour or so.

Hit the JY and picked up the AC hose I needed from an 87 LG4. I've got a spare 87 electric fan setup (swapped my 87 SC to duals) that I'll use instead of the mech fan and got the AC lines that run in front of the electric fan mount.

Also scored a set of subframe connectors. They were only bolted on to the 87 firebird in the yard. Took some big-boy wrenches to get them off, which caused me a second trip but I'll weld them in. They tucked in nicely and have the flange with bolt hole for the rear control arm mount. Got them for $35.



More work tomorrow...

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Those are 'Jegster' SFC/s,........ it's a real good set and a real steal for $35 and some elbow grease !

I ran a set of these for YEARS without any problems - the car had a Hi Perf 355ci and T-tops. It was Auto at first then converted to 6-speed. NEVER had bolt hole elongation problems and they were never welded in. I pulled out my original set of Jegsters about a year ago - & ONLY because I got a NEW set at a good price to put in thier place ! They fit GREAT under the car....... I even squeezed a Dyno Don Y-Pipe past them without making contact.



Install them by the setting the rear bolt in each side first, then lower the rear end and LOAD THE SUSPENSION before drilling the front holes. ( SFC's should not be 'set' when the car is "raised" in any way. )

Good score !

naf

iTrader: (7)

Almost ready to button it up.

I spent my last free weekend installing the SFCs on my 85 TA along with GR2s in place of the Monroes. World of difference in that +250K mile chassis. I've got Global West SFCs on my SC. It's a little tighter but also has slightly stiffer springs.

Since last time I've had to get:

EGR valve, on closeout sale at Rock Auto: $25
Carter Fuel Pump, $16, Rock Auto
Plugs, steering fluid, trans fluid, coolant: $50?

I already had the fan temp switch and a pigtail. I picked up a half dozen of the pigtails from Rock Auto when they were on close out some time ago. Also nabbed an LT1 starter from them for $70.

Picked up a decklid with spoiler for the Berli for $32. I'll use it to replace the existing decklid with the funky, plastic spoiler.

Wound up spending most of today pulling a TPI system off of an 87 at the JY. Got everything including harness and ECM for $90. I'll probably go back and nab the dual fan system. Last one cost me under $30. Don't know what I'll do with the TPI yet.

naf

iTrader: (7)

By the way, the last 5% takes the longest. Everything, all the brackets and pieces/parts had to be cleaned, stripped and painted or polished. Whew.

John in RI sold me a set of TPI manifolds and I mocked them up with my L69 Y and they'll work. I'm going to fire it up with the LG4 manifolds though and swap the exhaust later. Too much work right now. Thanks John

Also ran across another 84 Berli in the JY last month. Someone had stripped all of the dash pieces, but I got the light module and wiper module. They may be bad like most but only cost like $10. I'm kinda wondering how much of my electronics will still be good after sitting for a year plus.

Also rebuilt the carb and installed DR rods that I found 'sometime'.

kmcn47

nice to see someone doing a GOOD rebuild, greatjob sofar

chazman

iTrader: (4)

Nice job!

kmcn47

go injection? better mpg/driveability, be more work though getting it to work

naf

iTrader: (7)

Next project is painting and installing a hardwood cowl on my 87, upgrading the vortec heads with LS6 springs and installing a roller cam. Got all the parts for that already. I'll probably upgrade the spare set of vortecs I have so it's not down for most of the work. The stock vortecs 'may' go on my TA, if I decide to go with an RPM intake in place of the Performer on my 87.

The TPI is a long way off.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Motor/cam broke in. Putting stuff back together:



New overflow bottle from Modern Muscle, like $28 shipped.



Installed electric fan that I had. Used later style relay mounted near battery with power coming from Batt terminal through fuse. Ignition 12V from AC relay and conductor pulled through headlights loom. Need to run lead to temp switch (I picked up a few of those pigtails from RA on closeout some time ago). Also will be replacing the AC hoses with later style for electric fan, including pressure switch for fan.

Installed triangular brace left, front.

Jersey89GTA

iTrader: (1)

Nice job. Looks like a fun and rewarding project, I wish I knew more about engines/installing.

Great Thread - keep it coming.

kmcn47

that cars so clean, don't you worry about rust with no undercoating?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Not in South Carolina, as long as I don't drive it on the beach.

kmcn47

i just spent 10 minutes looking for a meme about wishing my car wasn't in the rain and snow and had a nice garage in SC but none applied, regardless NICE rebuild and nice car

naf

iTrader: (7)

Got sidetracked replacing the exhaust on the TA. Picked up the Dynomax cat back ($240 with a $50 rebate-yet to see it and a new cat for $113 shipped from RA). Put maybe 10 miles on the Berli, primarily to fill it up. Trans appeared to shift fine although I didn't get on it.

My first issues were lack of brakes. Pedal had same feel whether the engine was running or not. Bled the MC twice more, swapped it for another. Pulled the vacuum line and engine sped up-so I had good vacuum at the booster (line). Got ready to swap booster to check and got a wild hair and decided to pull the check valve...it was clogged with dirt. Guys at work think maybe a dauber tried to set up shop in there over the Summer. Cleaned it out and good brakes, nice feel.

Then had some issues with it overheating. The stat wasn't opening (although it kept cool while I broke it in). Pulled out the 195 stat and replaced it with a 180. No issues except the fan switch isn't bringing on the fans even at 220+. Will be replacing it with a lower temp switch or installing the variable set up.

Could not get the dwell to respond to changes in IAB setting using my trusty Autoxray. Stayed around 67-72% no matter what. Got old school and hooked up the dwell meter. A few adjustments and got it to 50% on the dwell meter needle-Autoxray still showed around 70%. Perhaps it doesn't like this older model ECM. Running much better now. Need to get it to the alignment shop before I drive it too much.





I put fenders and nose back on. The right fender has a few dings in it along with the door that are gonna require paint soon. Still planning to install the rear deck lid with the spoiler when I'm sure the running gear is good. Will have to paint it and the bumper covers. The rear cover was repainted at some time past in BC/CC and the CC is peeling.

I'll probably next order carpet for the interior. Some of the plastics were replaced in the past with a slightly different tan color. With the carpet I can re-dye everything with SEM. I've used it before with decent, long-lasting results.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Old exhaust:



New parts:



No more chrome megaphones:

naf

iTrader: (7)

Been a few weeks, but:

Got the AC components in. Got a later style AC hose for the electric fan assembly from RA for $45.

naf

iTrader: (7)

New carpet from Year One. When they had a sale it was the lowest I could find at around $140. I use the standard pile. I've installed the other, thicker stuff and don't think it's worth the effort, especially for a car that won't get driven much.

Carpet out:



Found the build sheet, it's part of the car now though.



Old carpet:



New:



I wrapped my flaky, smooshy steering wheel. Saw an 86 Berli at the yards a few weeks ago with a good wheel. Got back with a puller a few days later but someone had taken the whole column.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Todays project. Minor glass repair on the underside of a harwood hood for the 87 SC.



Next big project:



Will go into the 87. Got it from the upullit from a 96 Z28. The car had been there a week before I saw it. Engine fire had probably kept most people from looking. Got the bell, shifter, pedals, pigtails and pp bolts. Didn't mess with the old clutch/flywheel assembly.

Before you ask, $120 out the door. The pedals were probably harder to pull than the tranny.

83Z28/L69

Not a bad job for a Gamecock! LOL. Nice cars and nice work. I love seeing these car restored stock. Keep up the good work!

kmcn47

i wish i was as good at this a naf is, my car wouldn't be such a pile if i was

Technocopz28

Keep it going man. As a proud 84 Berlinetta owner, i feel we need to preserve this beautiful regime of the Camaro. I am also doing a rebuild, however mine is nearly completed (mainly cosmetic). Hang in there. It's well worth it. Watch the value sky rocket once she turns 30 and above. These are the cars of value in the future, just like how its the time to shine now for the 2nd gens. GO 3rd gens!

naf

iTrader: (7)

Finally found the time to get rid of the plastic wing on the original decklid. Picked up an early decklid with spoiler for around $30 a while back. Prepped and painted it with left over paint from the engine bay. The windshield sealant ran around $22. It's almost square. Took up as much slack as I could at the hinges but they're bent some like all the rest. Will have to replace one day.







The paint's certainly not a perfect match although it's the correct color code. I'll probably re-paint the whole thing some year, but want to keep the original paint as long as I can. It's road worn but not terrible.

...other than the rear bumper cover, which received a bc/cc repaint at some time in the past. Just didn't have the drive this weekend to jump on it just yet.

kmcn47

love that berli

naf

iTrader: (7)

The old rear:

naf

iTrader: (7)

Since the last major work to the Berlinetta, I've installed the T56 into the 87, swapped some vortec heads onto the 85 and recovered the original seats in the 85 with the pallex tan and graphite seat covers from Classic Industries (PUI).

Finally acquired all the parts needed to install TPI sized exhaust on the 84 last Spring. Got the y pipe and manifolds from a donor car in the yard for around $60. Picked up a Walker Cat and Cat Back last Spring while they had the rebate for $283 shipped from Rock Auto, minus $50 rebate, for cost to me of $233.

Had to use heat to get the old air tubes off the left manifold, the AIR tubes point towards the rear on TPIs. Reinstalled the heat stove and air tubes. Put the air tubes on after installation, made it a little easier to install, but tightening the tubes was a little more difficult.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Old and new y/cat. The TPI Y is noticeably larger than the LG4 Y. Having installed the L69 Y onto my 85 though, the L69 is still the most robust.

naf

iTrader: (7)

The TPI right manifold drops down a hair farther than the LG4 manifold and won't bolt to the LG4 Y. It also uses a spacer in place of the EFE valve.



TPI manifold is close to 1/2" wider where it connects to the Y.



Calipers don't show the whole difference. The LG4 manifold necks down (or flares out) as it meets the Y. The inside diameter is smaller than where it connects.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Did you go with so gle stage or two stage paint in the engine bay? If single stage, how is it holding up?

naf

iTrader: (7)

used ppg omni bc/cc on the bay. it's held up well, although beige tends to show all the dirt, dust and stuff.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I'm painting with the artic white and am just not sure if it's worth it to go base coat clear coat or use single stage for the engine bay. Did you he any problems with clear coat running or orange peel?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Of course it going to run a little in places. It very difficult to get a good spray around the fiddly bits. Just lay it on thick and most of it will be hidden by other motor stuff.

A bc/cc will stand up to the environment in there better than a single stage. Once a single stage starts fading it will be all but impossible to buff/wax.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

Should be a nice improvement in breathing!

What are you using for a flex connection to the air cleaner? Looks interesting. Part #?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Original L69 dual snorkel. Bought off five7kid some years ago.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

OK. I have the same air cleaner and ducts, but need the flexible hoses (impossible to find). I thought it looked like you had found an aftermarket alternative.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Went ahead and got new exhaust hangers from RA ($32 shipped) replaced all three. Found my panhard bar bent but had another one in the shed. Weird how I never noticed that before.

While the rear was up, I replaced the rear shocks with KYB and changed the diff oil.

Old stuff:





This i-pipe was 3" but necked down to 2 1/2" where it went into the muffler. Cat is the3" slip fit and I'll need to get it welded. It was cut off and only has about an inch of development between the cat pipe and y pipe.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Not bad for under $300 from the heads back. Though it took some time to gather all the parts.

Dsac

I have a 1984 sport coup that came with a 2.8 v6 and a t5 transmission. Last year a guy hit me and ripped off my front end and I found a donor car that was a 1984 berlinetta with a 305 and 700 r4 (30 spline model) I decided to switch to a 350 and the 700 r4 so I swapped out the dash doors power seat ect. It didnt have the brackets with it so i bought a set from a 84 berlinetta on Ebay but I'm having trouble getting all the brackets to go where they should as I have no point of reference and I can't find a good diagram online. Would it be possible for you to send me some pictures of your brackets so I can finally get my car back together. Thanks

naf

iTrader: (7)

it will be next weekend at the earliest before I can get any pics. Which bracket area do you need?

Dsac

I'm having trouble getting the ac and power steering brackets on. Have you had time to get those pictures?

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

My 84 TA has the triangle brackets in the engine bay, and I picked the support rods. But I don't believe that I have these. Could you provide any info? I want to add them to mine. Thanks.
Mine has the ground effects - like this. Maybe they are actually buried under there?

naf

iTrader: (7)

my 85 ta has the triangular brace under the driver's side batt tray

if your's does not, should be easy enough to add, although maybe harder to find now than it was several years ago