Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Screen shot of MS Dash that the tablet runs. Ignition on, engine off.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

I like it, very cool.

I'll probably keep my battery up front because I kind of like the simplicity of it.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I had to make a cut out for the power and headphone cable. I thought I had enough room to run them on the bottom right side but I don't so they must be at the top left again. Face plate lost some strength when I did that so I added the other flat piece (vertical piece) that connects the top and bottom piece (horizontal pieces).

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I ended up purchasing the 65 pound lift supports and that didn't solve anything. So I decided to bite the bullet and solve this problem with Physics. The way to approach this problem is the upward force applied via the lift support must be equal to or greater than the downward force applied by the edge of the trunk and spoiler. The spoiler sits out further than the lift support attachment point so the force from the spoiler will be less than the force from the lift support but they will exert equal Torques.

The equation to use is :
(Torque in Newton Meters) = (Force in Newtons) X (Distance in Meters)
I decided to assume that the force is perpendicular to the lever arm since this isn't an utterly crucial calculation.

The stock lift support has a force of 56 lbs or 251 Newtons
The lift support attachment point is 11" (0.279M) from the fulcrum
The midline of the spoiler is 18" (0.472M) from the Fulcrum
The High Rise 91/92 Z/28 spoiler weighs 11 lbs (48.930N)

Torque = Force X Distance

For simplicity I'm assuming the torque of the lift support is equal to the torque of the spoiler on the end of the trunk lid.
So finding the torque applied by the stock lift support.
Torque = (251N)(0.279M)
Torque = 70.029NM

Now we just solve for the downward force exerted by the stock spoiler
70.029NM = (N)(0.4572M)
153N = Force

Now we solve for the Torque of the Hi rise spoiler.
The stock spoiler exerts a force of 153N and the Hi rise is 48.9304N more so the high rise uses a force of 201.9304N
Torque = (201N)(0.4572M)
Torque = 92.383NM

Then we solve for the (minimum) Force required at the lift support
92.383NM = (N)(0.279M)
331.121N = Force
331.121N = 74.438 Lbs

The strength of the stock lift support again is ~55
I ordered a 65 and it didn't work so a 75 Lb force support sounds legit! I'll order an 80-85 or so to err on the side of caution but in reality a 75 is probably slightly stronger than the minimum because as the trunk is opening the lever arm is technically decreasing in length since gravity is the force and the trunk lid is opening in an arc.

The stock specs that I will try to adhere to are:
Extended length = 14.9"
Collapsed length = 9.4"

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

What seats are you using? I just finished installing the drivers side heat pads and my 4th gen leather power/lumbar support seats needed hog rings on the backrest. The bottom seat cushion used Velcro.

Just a heads up if you are planning on doing that soon. Jump on Amazon and order a 100 pack of 3/8" hog rings and pliers. About $20.

You might even have all that stuff too.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The seats are the Scat Pro Car seats. I think it's the same seat that Summit (and probably lots others )sells and rebrands. I'm not happy with it because it raises you up an inch or two. I'm also not happy with it because it just doesn't seem sturdy, as if it was made with too thin of metal. I would really like to get a solid non-adjustable bucket seat and bolt it to the thinnest bracket I can make. But it upsets me sooo much that companies sell the solid non-adjustable bucket seats for the same price as the regular reclining seats! I would consider getting a nice fourth gen front seat set but every set I see for sale is at least $250

Anyway, it will be April before I drive the car which means "cold" weather won't be for another 7-8 months, so I can put this up?

Can you post the link of what you bought? I had always done rings the hard way and used different pliers.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Fantastic work. If I could offer one suggestion. The lack of protection for the radiator scares me. I converted my racecar to a front breather and removed the grille much like yourself. I added some wire mesh just in front of the radiator to hopefully capture some of the bigger rocks and stuff. It does a decent job keeping out grass and such too without affecting cooling since it's at such a large cross section.



The shaved everything looks great, and you obviously have the talent. Have you considered doing anything about smoothing the fuel door to remove the finger lip? Maybe make it like a magnetic cabinet door popper?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

92RS_Ttop did (I think) a great write up on shaving out the fuel door and using a cheap furniture door popper to open it. I really considered it and I could always do that since I have an extra fuel door but the little finger lip doesn't bother me. SpikeZ also did a good post years back about removing the fuel filler area altogether and moving it to the trunk--A little too race car-y for me though. The only other areas I look at and think I should have done is that little ridge or lip around the rear wheel well openings. I would like to weld that little ridge out of existence. I may do that in a year or two after I buy a couple welding blankets to protect the surrounding paint.

I had covered this in a post and I'm going to try it without any grill (or screen as you suggested) in place. If I start to see fins plugged up and bent from road debris than I have a grill already that I can install.

Thanks but no talent here. Body work is just one of those things you can screw up and keep redoing until you get it right. There is a spot I found just an inch away from the fuel door where the clear coat needs sanded and polished or just resprayed.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Here ya go

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...ml#post6116278

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I have to make a new center console lid and door panels and I will most likely be attempting to make my own leather covers for the rear seats using the old covers as a template. I am also interested in recovering some of the interior in "leather." I started researching upholstery seams and came across a nice how to over on LS1tech.com, anyone interested in recovering their interior should read this: http://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance...nch-seams.html
http://www.sewneau.com/how.to/french.seam.php
https://sailrite.wordpress.com/2016/...a-french-seam/
https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/04...-faux-leather/

More info:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance...inyl-pics.html
http://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance...erior-mod.html

DelRey88

Can you tell me what you did for this console set up? I'm just getting started on an IROC-Z that was my mother-in-law's that my wife received from her estate and this looks amazing.


Nevermind. Didn't get far enough in the thread.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Well either it's dumb luck or my math was right because the shocks work perfectly. It was just like I thought too, I bought a few pounds stronger than my math called for and they are slightly stronger than needed but work fine and the trunk lid isn't flying open.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Good to hear. Mine still take off like a rocket, but I'll address it later.

That picture just reminded me that I forgot to paint my gas door.....

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

On my RS the shocks were slightly overpowered but I liked it, I could press the hatch release button and the motor would let the hatch up and then the struts would kick it up. Kinda hands free opening. The convertibles supports aren't quite that strong though.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Been sanding the hood, seems like it ready for primer. It had a black gel coat on so most of what you see is gel coat and old primer. I'm the only owner of it and I used DuPont Nason primer before so there should be no problems with using it as a base.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Shot 2K primer on the hood this morning. I did it outside in the open, no bugs or wind or leaves and any dust will be sanded out. I'll be spraying the base coat clear coat on it in an actual spray booth and hope to do that next week.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I checked the operation of the windshield wipers and found that the linkage breaks the surface of the cowl. So I have to make a new piece of screen that has a hump in it so the linkage clears. In the picture you can see the arm at it's highest point, just poking up. I guess this is why GM used that big hump screen. On a related note I saw in a thread that a windshield washer pump for a late 80's Nissan (Maxima?) is almost a direct bolt in and is much less obtrusive.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

This made me think about MY wiper motor.....sure enough, different from '88 and up. Also made me think about my washer fluid pump and connector. I can't remember if I even saw one on my harness.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Tibo - You clearly know a LOT about body work and paint, etc... I have a quick question for you since your build is above and beyond anything I could think of completing.

How did you finish off your floor boards? Inside and out? Undercoating? I am on this stage now with my build and am stumped as to what to do.

Might have been better as a private message but figure other people that track your progress might want to know as well.

I was thinking of removing all the rubber undercoating from my build, then scuff with 80 grit, 2K primer, 2K paint, covered by rubberized undercoat or truck bedliner.

What did you do?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Don't sell yourself short, as long as you have time body work is just "trial and error" or "rinse and repeat" or "third times a charm."

My Camaro was a desert car so it had absolutely no rust. No surface rust or pinholes or anything, I was and am extremely grateful for this. The paint on the inside and underside of the floor pan was in great shape and truth be told I could have left it. It wasn't in as good of shape as some of the uber low mile (less than 20,000 miles) collector thirdgens out there but still in great shape. On the inside from the bellhousing area forward I used sound deadener matt--use whatever brand you prefer. In the future I will probably switch to Ensolite (http://www.raamaudio.com/ensolite-iu...on-the-market/) since the member reviews are so good and I have never been thrilled with the most sound deadener matts.

On the underside I went with Rustoleum Professional with a hardener added in. I mixed that with Acetone and the ratio came out to 4:1:0.25 I think. Poured it into a cheap spray gun (Thanks Harbor Freight!) and sprayed away. Rustoleum with the hardener that you spray really is much better than the rustoleum from a spray can. I talked to the local grey beards at car shows and they all thought I was going way to far by wanting to use a nice base coat clear coat or single stage. The car will look nice but it won't be at the level where a base coat/clear coat underside will make or break me. Rustoleum is easily resprayed too and available at any hardware store in my area. It's not as impervious to chemicals as epoxy based paint or the Enron of old but again, easy to touch up areas. If you really want to do a single stage I would go pick up the ready to spray paints at O'Riellys or AutoZone. $20 for a quart is a good price point for an undercarriage and wouldn't be difficult to touchup. If you want to go the rubberized path than truck bed liner is supposed to be much better than run-of-the-mill undercoating be it rubberized or asphalt based. Twin_Turbo and some other members say it's much better to use.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Great info here. Thanks for the super fast reply!

Have you seen Eastwood catalyzed 2K paints that come in a can?

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2...ack-gloss.html

I am going to paint my axle with this this primer and paint. I then thought why not do the same to the floor boards, in and out... Basically trying to avoid making something, and just buying something off the shelf since I have ZERO experience with this paint and body stuff.

I plan to drive my car three seasons a year, basically how you would ride a motorcycle. Only nice out, no rain. But not really showing off at shows and if I do, just for fun, music and good conversations is the main reason to go.

I think I will try that sound insulation you linked. Just a bit worried about using stick stuff as I just threw away about $150 worth of old FATMAT and DYNOMAT product that I applied years ago over rusted areas. (Stupid kid that I was).

Getting all the glue off has been a hue pain. Sort of nervous about using another sticky product.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I don't have any experience with the Eastwood paints in a can but they and SEM usually have at least decent products so it might be worth a shot for the rear end. RobGuitarGod may have experience with one of those products. According to their site two coats is required and it would build to 2.4mm, so I would think it would be thick enough to provide decent protection from small road debris. But at $23 a can that leads me back to my initial suggestion of using the Dupli-Color paints in the quart you can buy at the autoparts stores now.
http://www.autozone.com/paint-and-bo...at/898490_0_0/
http://www.autozone.com/paint-and-bo...mer/898488_0_0
It's cheap, easily available and would be great on underbodies that don't see snow or offroad. I would only use it for the underside of floor pans though, not the suspension pieces that may be pitted- Thicker stuff for that. Maybe use this stuff on the underside of a hood/trunk lid or the inside of the cabin or doors but that's it. Basically stuff you want painted but no one really ever sees.
For the rear end strip it down as much as possible and then do several scrubbings with the phosphoric acid. I skipped the acid step last time i did mine, the wire wheel did not get into the tiny rust pits and the POR15 eventually began to peel off. But if you can have it blasted that is by far the best route.

When you were removing the prior deadening matt did you use any heat while removing it? I've always had good luck with the heat gun and a scraper.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I used a heat gun. Worked well but after years of being on the car, the adhesive had become more of a jelly and stuck to the car more than the deadener.

I like the Eastwood stuff because they are a 2K product in a can. I am not too concerned about availability of paints locally. I tend to buy all this sort of thing online and I only have a little compressor at the time, not really good enough to run a paint gun.

From what I can tell so far, (TGO + googling), there is no "standard" way to paint the floor inside or out. People tend to do all sorts of different things. (of course depending on intended use, budget, skill, knowledge and time).

I think I will simply use rust encapsulation paint on any slightly rusty spots, (after phosphoric acid and deep cleaning), then scuff the entire interior and do the 2K primer and 2K chassis black. As for the underside, I will do the same thing, followed by 2 coats of rubberized undercoat from Eastwood. 3 or 4 coats in the wheel wells.

Might not be the cheapest way out, but I think it will be robust.
Thoughts?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Bought some cloth for speakers and made the new frames and covered them. I had to reupholster each frame twice because the upholstery glue was wicking up the cloth making it noticeable.



After I made and installed these speaker covers I realized I could have just made the entire dashboard smooth and flat- covering up the speakers completely and the relocating them to the sides of the center console, the area where the radio and hvac unit was. It's just empty space now. I may buy some 6" speakers and mount them there and redo the dashboard next year....

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I had thought for a long time about what design I wanted for the door panels. I can't reuse the originals because I'm not using door locks and I didn't want to accidentally lock the doors because the switch or rod was left in place. I knew I had to make a pair from scratch more or less. I settled on doing the entire top part as a blind pleat and the bottom in the normal black carpet. I am no upholstery professional just like I'm no bodywork or welding pro but just like those tasks all it takes is a desire to learn and little practice to do it competently. I hadn't seen any posts on here about making blind pleats so I thought I would just go through the process.....

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The first step is to remove the original fabric from the original panel and use that piece to make a template on your new fabric.



When you make the template it will not be an exact template, you will want to make it wider and slightly taller than the original because as you are sewing the plates the material will slowly be pulled towards the side that you started from. So while in the picture it looks like I have way too much by the time I finished there was only a 2" overhang.



After the new material is cut you need to lay out your sewing lines so you have to answer the question of how wide you want your pleats. I went with two inches wide for the layout, mostly because it was how wide my ruler was. Remember that the pleats will shrink width wise as you sew. My 2" wide layout measured down to 1.75" after being sewn. I put the material on the door panel and went 90* straight down from the top edge of the door panel.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The next thing to do is to cut out the foam. The foam will have the exact tracing as the original fabric since the foam will not shrink. I used 1/2" foam and got some deep pleats, in hindsight 1/4" foam is what I would have preferred.



The next thing you need to do is make a backing cloth for the foam, you do this so the thread has something to hold onto because if you didn't the needle and thread would just rip apart the foam. You can use whatever cloth you want as long as it's not too thick or thin of a fabric. If you can hold the fabric up and see through it then it's too thin. It doesn't even need to be one solid piece. Cut this out slightly larger than the foam piece.



After you cut out the backing cloth you will want to glue the cloth and foam together, do this so the cloth does not start to slide off when sewing.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Next you make the sandwich. Material that will be seen is facing down, then the foam with the cloth on top.



The way to then sew this kinda tricky to explain, Look at this picture first:



The way I do it is to glue down the fabric to the material in the area behind where I am going to sew. So if you are moving from left to right you glue down the foam/fabric to the area that is left of the line that you are going to sew. I use glue because if I used safety pins the holes would would show in the "leather" and I don't think clothes pins would secure it enough. After just that area is glues down you fold the material (not the foam) back and over so the line you made is right at the edge or slightly before. You then want to sew the tiniest amount inwards from the edge.

After you sew your that line fold the material back over and it should look like this from the top:



You cant see the thread (hence the term blind pleats) because you folded the material over itself when you had sewn it. Had you not folded the material the stitching would be visible.



If you flip the piece over it should look like this from the Bottom. Notice that the foam is still flat while the "leather" material is pleated. Had you sewn it the reverse the leather would be flat and the cloth backing would be pleated.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Then you just keep repeating those steps to complete the process.



Make no mistake about this--It takes a while to do. It took me several hours to do this one piece. If I had an actual upholstery sewing machine I could have been faster. My local upholstery shop wanted hundreds of dollars to do this. It's not difficult by any means, just time consuming.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Very cool. Great info. Not sure I like the look personally but I respect the massive amount of work you put in and love the walk thru.

I hope to make my own panels when I get to that step. I think just about everything the aftermarket offers is junk for door panels.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I'm not in love with this door panel yet either but I decided I preferred the pleated door panels over the flat two-tone door panels most people have. I'm also not a big fan of the raised lettering or logo underneath upholstery. If I finish the panels and decide to change them I can sell these and make a new set. After all, I'm only out the cost of leather and foam.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Admittedly, I have a friend that runs the autobody program at the college that has fielded a lot of questions for me. As I had posted about a few pages ago I had some trouble with taping the stripes. I knew the stripes on the hood would be even harder since they are curved and I didn't want to screw it up so I brought the hood to his painting booth and had him tape the stripes. He did a fantastic job. I'll post more pictures when I get the hood home but I am very happy with how it turned out.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Beautiful! I swear I'm going to pay to use a pint booth next time I paint...look at all that space.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Not to mention the light! I really want to add more fluorescent light in my garage now.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The hood isn't 100% installed but its bolted to the hinges and sitting on the car. Wetsanded and polished it last night. One of the corners I got a little aggressive with and I have to respray clear but there are 2-3 other spots on the car where the clear needs touched up so no biggie. I thought that sticking with black louvers looked the best on this hood. Orange louvers or the 91-92 Blisters looked out of place on this hood.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The stripes came out great and I'm really happy with them. Lines are totally straight with no bleeding and the curved parts are smoothly curved just like the vinyl stripes from factory.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The Hood to fender gap is also excellent- every bit as good as the gap between the factory hood and fenders. There has been many comments and threads I have read talking about Harwood having horrible fitment but this hood doesn't suffer from that problem.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

There is also lots of comments and threads all over the internet discussing whether or not our GM Arctic White is the brightest white available. I believe it probably is. The car on the right is a new Mazda with their white. To me it appears dingy looking next to the Arctic White and it helps show the really subtle blue hue in Arctic White.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Finally a shot of what it's shaping up to be

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Finished the installing the seatbelts I made a harness bar that the seat belts attach to. I know that some people may read this and cringe for one or two reasons. Some people argue that a harness bar with shoulder restraints is utterly dangerous without a roll cage because IF the car were to roll over these shoulder belts would not allow your body to slump to the side and I could be killed/injured. The problem with applying this argument (it actually is a good argument) to a convertible is that if this convertible rolls over I'm dead anyway! The A pillar is flimsy and I can stand there and flex it up and down with one arm-- It will offer no protection in a roll over.

The other argument is that in an accident that harness bar is going to break loose and offer no help AND it's not allowed by the NHRA. Well, as far as NHRA goes I didn't do my trunk mounted battery to their liking so I would het kicked out for that and I have shaved door handles so I'd get kicked out for that so why start caring about NHRA now? As far as the bar breaking or coming loose, the bar is a 1" OD with a 1/8" wall thickness and it's bolted to the exact spot that the original seat belts were bolted to. With a span of ~five feet the bar can safely handle in the neighborhood of 1,500 lbs before it reaches it's maximum safe deflection and becomes permanently bent. If I have myself and a passenger in the front and we were in a high speed collision with an immovable object or object that is many times heavier the bar may bend but it wouldn't break. I plan on making and welding on legs that bolt to the transmission tunnels seat belt bolts and that would dramatically increase the strength of the bar.

I talked to my local police department to ask about the harness bar and 4 point belts and their reply was literally, All we care about is that you are wearing a seat belt. I guess in Arizona because it's legal to drive anything with an engine on the road (ATV, Sand rail, scooter, dirt bike, Razr, Golf cart) they know they can't be too strict on what seat belts are legal vs Illegal?

The bar also acts as a B pillar brace which is supposed to help convertibles much more than hard or T-top cars. I used Heim joints so just like a lower control arm you can twist the bar to apply a preload and lock it in place.



I had to notch the side interior trim a small amount.




If you look at the seat belt cover for the stock belts you can tell it won't work. I'm going to have to notch this piece out and fiberglass over the original seat belt opening. I have to keep that big U in the middle because that is where the top goes up.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Decided on a mounting location for the Radiator overflow. I welded some angle iron on the bumper bracket at the front of the horn.







I drilled and tapped the radiator neck for a 1/8" pipe thread and used a 1/8" NPT male end to a -4an male end and just attached a 90* -4AN fitting to that. I'll buy some-4AN hose in the future but I just used some regular fuel hose for now. It works and there are no leaks.

pwessels

Super cool convertible! - been following the progress for a while now.

Your calculations are way off on how much force passengers will exert on the seatbelt system and to the harness bar in even a relatively slow accident. You may want to consider adding another bar that extends from the middle of your harness bar back between the rear seats and is anchored back there as well? I am not an impact engineer but deal with structural and seismic requirements in construction on a regular basis.

"For the example car crash scenario (Based on a 30 mph crash into a solid object) the stopping distance is one foot, the force on a 160 lb driver is about 4800 lb or 2.4 tons, and the deceleration about 30 g's."

Yes some of the force will be constrained by the lap belts but be aware of just how much force is likely to be at work here.


http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/seatb.html

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Thank you for the compliment.
What work do you do?
I'm going to have to differ with you on the calculation you or you'll have to show me how you arrived at it. I'm just using the old equation of
Force = Mass X acceleration
and I can't come up 4800 lbs.
I know the bar in it's current arrangement will be bent in a high speed impact and pass it's elasticity point so like a roll cage it would only be good for one use. I for sure want to add the beams or arms in the middle but I would rather have them go to the seat belt holes in the tunnel, but maybe the seat belt bolts in the rear seats are a better idea. I would rather not have the arms go back to the hump area because I would need to weld a plate on to have a strong connection. I may, in the future, build a roll cage but I am squirmish on the look in a convertible especially when the car won't see the dragstrip.

pwessels

Tibo,

I design steel frame modular buildings. Seismic forces as well as, live/dead loads and wind load have to be accounted for in building designs and will vary from geographic region to region.

I totally agree that roll cages and even roll bars look crappy in a third gen convertible - just kills the flow of the body lines. Even though it would be a good idea from a safety perspective mine won't get one either.

The link that I posted above has quite a few different scenarios and shows the equations used for both stretching and non-stretching seat belts.

The image attached is likely the closest example to what we are talking about.

One other thing to consider is if the bar bends in the middle it will also pull both of your door posts/front of quarter panels inboard. This would make fixing the car much more of a pain than just replacing the front end damage.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I'm working on making my own exhaust system using pie cuts and welding it up. I'm using this band saw: https://www.harborfreight.com/horizo...saw-93762.html



I do not like abrasive chop saws, I've tried a Dewalt and a Rigid and wasn't happy with either of them. They continuously walk sideways, are loud and throw sparks and dust everywhere. Their best use is for action shots in magazines and tv shows. Before I bought this I used the porta-band bandsaw by Milwaukee, the metal cutting circular saw by Milwaukee and a jig saw by Mikata. Those will cut square tube well enough but I knew I needed something stationary for round pipe.

And I am using this website to make the printable pie cut templates. It really is a great site! You enter in the diameter and angle wanted and it generates a PDF document that you print and cut out. Trace it on the pipe and cut away. Granted I could just find the correct degree on the saw and lock in place, this will be more accurate. The site will also will make templates for tube notching and the cutout templates for passing pipes through a flat surface!
https://www.blocklayer.com/pipe-miter.aspx

rb85TA

I have cropped a part of a picture from a completely different kind of build as a reference for ideas when I layout/design my cage... thought you might be interested, if for no other reason but to give you a new idea /direction for your build (pertaining to the crossbar vs. cage discussion). It would be possible to make something like this removable, if that be more desirable.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

That's something I haven't seen before, the bar being that low. Something like that could turn out great for guys with convertibles that don't want the roll bar protruding up. I would probably have to weld them into the subframe connectors or do the large 6"x6" floor plates. I think you would still have to weld them to the rear hump area with a 6"x6" plate too. I wonder if NHRA would allow a car like that at the track? It would be following their criteria for a roll bar that you can tie the belts to, it just wouldn't have a roll bar hoop above the head...... Interesting!

pwessels

That almost looks to me like an adjustable height mount for a 4 link set-up that is still to come?

rb85TA

that's exactly what it is, but I'm looking at it as an example of what I/ others can do with it. Vert guy's could use this same design to tie in the inner and outer subframe connectors with the roll bar or cage. There's really to many possibilities for this to list them all, I try to think outside the box & wanted to hopefully inspire others to do the same.
God Bless

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I finished those side B pillar trim caps that the top goes through. I fiberglassed the sides and then slapped body filler on the top to smooth it out. I decided to try the sprayable bedliner after so many members had reported it's uncanny ability to mimic the look of the stock textured items like the dashboard and other interior plastics. I was skeptical but wow(!) this looks and feels original now! I'm very impressed, so impressed that I will probably spray the dash (not the dashboard though).