Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Sprayed primer this morning and hoping to spray color on the rear spoiler and front chin spoiler.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Sprayed the front and rear spoiler. I wanted to make sure the stripes on the spoiler were perfectly aligned with the stripes on the deck lid so I set the spoiler onto the decklid. With the spoiler on the decklid I put a ruler level at the edge of one tape line and went up vertically to put a tape line on that exact spot on the spoiler. Did that with both sides of both stripes. The vertical tape lines are perfect but the horizontal had some bleeding, only small. I painted the stripes in the same fashion as the decals were put on, so stripes only on top, not down the sides or wrapped under something.









I did get some orange peel but it's only a small amount that will easily be removed with wetsanding.

Billgluckman

I think i know where you're going with this...

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

That's the same paint scheme, Classic Camaro paint scheme. I think this scheme looks best on first and Thirdgen. It looks almost out of place with the stripes on a second and fourthgen. That car used a brighter Orange, my research showed that carousel red (the color I used) is the correct color. I'm also using the divisive Daytona turbo iroc (whatever you want to call it) hood with the period incorrect hood louvers instead of the 91-92 hood blisters.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Placed the spoiler on the trunk lid to see how it looks. I decided against wrapping the stripes on the underside of the spoiler. After painting it I really prefer it this way, stripes on top only.





Just need to make a trip to an autoparts store to kind a decent material for between the spoiler's posts and the body. Maybe some of that cellulose rubber gasket material you can buy as a sheet. I don't think that retains water.

RavingMadly

Looks great, man. Keep up the good work!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Thanks. I will paint the hood mid to late September but other than that only a few small things left for the body- I need to drill the larger holes in the bottom of the trunk lid for attaching the bolts and then drilling a hole in the body for the door poppers. So Monday I may be able to start on the underside of the car which hopefully is simply removing some undercoating, scuffing the surface and spraying the paint and then welding in the UMI subframe connectors and making a set of inner subframe connectors that will also serve as a mounting point for the T56 so I don't ever have to worry about the transmission tunnel frame having issues with torn metal.

ctoledo0834

Looks awesome. Seeing your engine bay welding/ work gives me confidence to do mine. Great job

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

No reason you couldn't. If you have the time, space and tools anybody can do this. I've never taken a welding or shop class, everything I know or learned has come from here, YouTube or other forums and from practicing.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Polished the tonneau cover and finished installing the spoiler but have yet to wet sand and polish the spoiler.





I made a mistake in the wet sanding process. I removed all of the orange peel with a lower grit sandpaper (800) and then I was just sanding blind. The safer way that I usually use is to not remove all of the orange peel until at least 1200 but preferably 1500. That way I know I don't have any deeper grit scratches still there-I'm basically using the orange peel as my sanding depth gauge. Also I know most any rubbing compound should be able to remove 1500 grit scratches. After the car is all done and I'm looking for a project I'll re wet sand and polish the stripes and a few areas on the back half. Luckily though I only did the back body panels this way and I can do everything else in my usual method. But to put it into perspective this is something that you can really only see if you know what to look for and its inside under lighting. If I had a really good digital camera with a good manual focus macro lens I could post a picture of it.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Half way done cleaning the underbody, I'm amazed at how good of condition it is. No rust. Just had a decent amount of grease, oil, tar and dirt. Should be ready for paint next week.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Also found out that the prior owner performed the coup de gras of laziness, he cut a hole above the fuel tank to change the pump. Which leaves me wondering if I should make a good suitable trap door or just weld it shut and say good riddance?

reddawg

I say weld it up. Really, how often are you gonna be replacing pumps? Then again, when you do....I don't know man!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I have had owned my other Camaro for 13 years and I have replaced 3 pumps and the sending unit 2 (once the unit was bad from the start) So I have dropped the gas tank to do it the way GM intended on these cars many times. With that experience under my belt and with the hole already being there I'm really leaning towards making a nice access panel. The hole has already been cut so I might as well not try to hide it or act like it never happened. I started a thread (https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ml#post6070486) to help me figure out how to work out this project. I'll probably be back Monday/Tuesday with some pictures of the work.

Billgluckman

I found the same thing after I dropped my tank. I'll be watching what you do because, like you, I'm thinking of making a door since there's already a hole there.

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

I think I'd head to a salvage yard, find a car that has a factory access hole of sufficient size, and cut that section out. Add it to a replacement section for your car, and weld it in.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I'm not leaning that way anymore. I'd need to go out and buy the Milwaukee Hackszal M12 to do that. Which I really have been wanting an excuse for that it would give me, but I think it'll be faster and cheaper to make one myself.

I went out and bought some 1/8" thick 1" wide flat bar steel. My plan is to make the cut out shape from some plywood and then bend the metal on end into an oval-ish shape with the help of my OA torch. Then I'll weld that in "frame" in, install rivet nuts and use some 18 gauge sheet metal I have to then make a cover plate. If the rivet nuts are too tall or protrude too much I'll switch to the 1/4 turn Dzus fasteners. It would definitely be strong enough and no one could call it a hack job. Of course all this depends on if I could adequetly bend that flat bar on end

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I made these two templates, the larger one is going to be the size of the cover plate and the cover plate will be 18 gauge steel. The smaller template will be the size of the opening or id of the hole, it's also the the shape I'll cut out of wood to bend the flat bar around sideways. The hole id will be 6.75" x 11.5" giving me a 0.75" gasket surface.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Well it's done, but I'm not happy with it. The threaded rivets didn't install straight and the piece I welded in distorted and I didn't tack it all over first before I started welding so when I began welding one side it pulled toward that side and made a gap on the opposite side. So it looks sub par. Should've just went with 1/8" plate all around and just threaded that for 8-32.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Looks pretty good to me, especially considering the hack jobs you usually see. Can you hammer/dolly or metal fill in the parts you aren't happy with?

Corey Koch

Hey Sorry to bug you again.... but im not sure if you might know. anyways i just bought this 90 rs.... had 5.7 in it already with 3 plugs to a wire for this sensor and that, and i know it needed a u joint. but ever since i got it a few weeks ago. every time i would try to shift it into reverse it would take a little bit then bang bang click bang into reverse.....the guy i bought it from says he knows nothing about the car....haha..but he told me to spray pb blaster on shifter linkage and it would clear it up... but im hoping he didnt just cobb it together and did what he was suppose to when he built it. because even when i put it into drive it takes like 7 seconds about..... and even when i put it into park i have to make sure im holding it forward with pressure and barely let off the brake because it doesnt want to go into park, i dk how i can fix this or maybe the trans is ****ed or maybe nothing was aligned right idk.......but back to my main point... yesterday i was driving it just up and down the road getting a feel for it, i havent put it on the road yet.. but i was gonig about 12 maybe 13 14 mph.......and BAGANAGANAGN RRRRRRR.... whole car locks up with binding noises high revved tires screech about 8 feet it slid to a stop. i put it into nuetral because it felt like the engine and trans and everything just locked up on me.....i got out and tried to push because i was only about 40 feet from my driveway and it wouldnt move. so i had to put it into gear and press the gas pedal a ways and binded all the way into my driveway and i shut if off and looked underneath it and the cross member the guy had did a poor weld on disconnected on the passenger side the welds look so shitty.....but right now its hanging in there dropped down and i dont know what kind of brackets its suppose to have, im not sure if you might know or know someone who does know. what kind of damage am i looking at here, can i just jack it up and reweld it? i dont even know how ill get to do that.... but im really hoping it isnt all ****ed and its just reweld it and fix back drum brakes that could of locked up... but i wasnt ****ed around with it just driving down the road slow in between parked cars on either side. and it happened almost slid into one and had old ladys coming out of there houses wondering what happened probly thinking i was doing burnouts or something it was so loud. idk haha sorry this is so long...

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I don't know who you are or what you're talking about. The way to ask for help is to post a a new thread on a message board that corresponds to your problem. It is generally considered rude to just jump in someone else's thread and ask some big long unrelated question.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

After much cleaning and prep work I now have the underbody sprayed. I used Rustoleum professional gloss white thinned 4:1 with acetone and 16:1 with the hardener Sprayed out very nice, I was surprised. Next I'll tape off the rear fender wells and spray them with undercoating.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The fuel pump access door, all done. I did like any welder who has made a less than perfect weld- seam sealer! Then a coat of paint. The door is 16 gauge galvanized as is the frame for it that I welded in. If my measurement was right the floor pan is 18 gauge so this is probably as good as stock. I think I used 22 bolts for it, one every two inches.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I've also spent the last two nights making, from scratch a set of inner subframe connectors with 1" x 2" tubing with 1/8" thick wall. I haven't taken any pictures because I'm still making the mounting pads for the ends. Also been working on the outer set of subframe connectors I bought from UMI years ago. And yes, I threw out that piddly little passenger side cross bar that's supposed to link their outer sfc to the transmission tunnel frame. I made my own cross link with more of the 1"x 2" that looks like it will work far better.
I'm not happy with the fitment but I don't know if it's because of incorrect jacking from previous owners, because it's a convertible and I'm contending with the stock subframe connectors or it's that UMI considers it routine installation to use a couple hammers. It's just the body, nothing to cause flex or twist right now. The top of the Jack stands are level with each other too.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The subframe connectors are built and welded on and the paint touched up but I still need to take pictures of them on the car. I really used FueledSoul thread as a template. It worked out well.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...al-design.html
One point of advice: I made my set of inner connectors and had bought a set of UMI connectors years ago. It would have been much easier to buy the inner set and make the outer set. Although my inner set has more ground clearance it took a while to make them because of all the double angles. So IMO the price of the inner connectors is worth it and the outer connectors are far far over priced. The only alteration I made to the other was in the passenger side I got rid of the little bar that connects to the transmission tunnel in favor of a bigger bar with a much more solid weld joint.





That's about as strong a connection as you can make and should be the way it was done to begin with.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Pictures of the connectors installed. Some of the welds came out looking pretty good, some of them didn't look pretty but get the job done (glad they're on the bottom of the car!). In my defense though I am doing them with the car on jack stands around 18" high. At any rate Both the inner and outer set have excellent ground clearance- Dragging on speed bumps shouldn't be an issue. I myself am impressed with how well the inners turned out, especially with all of the double angles I had to do.












You can see in the above picture that because I could only weld the outer connector to the floor pan in one spot about 6-8" long I just cut a tube and welded it onto the outer tube and welded the other end to the factory riveted on convertible subframe connector. Its better than nothing.







In some of the pictures it is hard to tell but I did use plates welded between the subframe connector and the "frame."

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Looks real good man. I need some inners, but your pictures are inspiring me to buy some instead of make them lol. Looks like a whole lot of cutting and welding. Are you doing a driveshaft loop as well?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The inners did take me a while. I would buy the inner set unless you really needed the ground clearance or you didn't have the money to plop down for a new inner set. My process was to measure a length, cut and then tack to the existing tube. Once tacked I could figure out the first angle and then cut. With the first angle figured out I could determine the second angle and again, cut. Then with both angles figured out I could measure the length for the new tube and start the process all over again--Unless the angle(s) was greater than 10* in which case the angle on both tubes has to be the same. IE a 30* angle needs to be cut at 15* for both tubes otherwise the tubes won't match up. No wonder they use round tube in a bender for the inners!

I probably won't do a driveshaft loop but I may in the future. I still have to make a transmission crossmember and I don't want to make it a complex effort Unless I start running out of patience in which case I may just buy one.

battman

iTrader: (2)

Fantastic job on the quarter panel cap and wing! that's how they should have been from the factory.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Thanks, it does make sense that they would have been built this way. Although in UMI's defense they made this set so that it is compatible with the factory y pipe that runs in the area where I put that additional tube. I think in the future at some point I will improve the connection toward the front wheels, I have a few ideas.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The idea that I have had in my head for the transmission crossmember is best demonstrated by these pictures from this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ong-tubes.html





My idea strayed a little bit in that I want to make plates that would be welded to the inside and bottom of the transmission tunnel. Welded to the bottom plates would be two nuts on the back of the bottom side and then on the plate on the inside of the transmission tunnel would be two nuts. Then I could bolt the transmission crossmember from two different directions. In my head this would make the transmission crossmember more of a stout suspension brace at least. I may try to bend a 3/8" metal bar but if that doesn't work I will just go back to my 1x3 tubing. Unfortunately I can't start that project for a few weeks when I have the transmission and engine out of the other Camaro and ready to go in.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Starting to pull parts from the other Camaro and thought I would snap a few pictures to demonstrate why I don't want to attempt to fix my other. These are not the only rusted areas either....

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Put some sound deadening down on the firewall and floor. Also decided to take out all of the cars wiring and use the wiring from my other Camaro. This convertible was an automatic so I would have to change that part, I'd have to fix the harness where the previous owner butchered it along with changing the VATS and ignition cylinders. So it will be just the same to swap harnesses. I'm also swapping the Steering column.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I managed to remove the interior and interior wiring harness from the other Camaro. Then I went through it and pulled out some of the wiring that I'm not using anymore to thin the harness. I pulled all of the SIR system wiring, the foglight wiring, stock audio wiring, heat/ac wiring. Re taped the harness and it looks much more friendly now. I left the fused and hot at all times power wire from the Fog lights as well as the SIR wire in case I have some future idea I'll already have some spare power wires. The SIR is 10 amps and the fog light is a 20. I also still need to wire up the shaved door handles so I'll probably use that fog lights always hot wire. Hoping that it goes in super easy on Monday now and I can put the carpet in!

One other issue that I'll need to take care of is adding in a power Tonneau release circuit since my T-top'd RS had well, no Tonneau. I think I can use the pre-existing "Defrost" wiring from the RS. It has power and uses a fat power wire (10 gauge?), I would just need to replace the stock on off switch with a momentary push button.

I did look into "upgrading" the wiring for the power windows. Basically using a thicker wire directly from a power source instead of the smaller wire that comes from a distribution point that feeds multiple power sources. I didn't think it would work and after some research I found a long time, knowledgeable member comment in a thread that even when he hotwired the windows there was no appreciable speed difference.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ml#post2197957

87CIZ

iTrader: (8)

I just read all of this thread. You've renewed my motivation to work on my car. Although, I'm still afraid of welding sheet metal on these cars, all i have is a harbor freight flux core welder. Keep up the good work!

As far as speed of windows, the hot wire mod is really just to replace GM's short cuts and keep your window motor from being burned up.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Can you elaborate on this? I know that the motors themselves have an internal breaker that trips when the motor is working too hard. Then of course the fuse and switch but.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Then I highly recommend the 120 volt MIG welder either by Eastwood or AHP. The Eastwood has worked out great for me and it comes with a 3 or five year warranty. AHP is about the same price and comes with a spool gun! So basically you're choosing between a warranty or a spool gun. I used Flux core on my strut tower caps since who cares I had to grind them anyway. I also Flux'd the core support and bars together. For Sheet metal switching to MIG worked out much easier and the 120 Volt units are phenomenal for anything 3/16" and thinner. They give you much more latitude than the 220 Volt brothers. The 120 Volt units can do thicker than 3/16" but you'll need to have no gap, bevel the edges and do 2-3 passes.

87CIZ

iTrader: (8)

I'll look in to those welders, I just bought concrete for the garage and a 4 post lift lift so funds are very low at the moment. I'm not 100% positive the 3rd gen windows are wired the same as 4th gen, but from the posts ive read that seems to be the determination among people. here is a write up on ls1tech explaining it. http://ls1tech.com/forums/general-ma...indow-fix.html

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I read through that article, they are referencing voltage drop which is a consideration for any vehicle. It sounds like their window circuit is wired differently than ours is but any vehicle probably experiences voltage drop to some degree. Just look at the diagrams for the Windows and power distribution:
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...stribution.jpg
http://austinthirdgen.org/mkportal/m..._continued.gif
If I remember right the factory uses a 10 gauge wire from the battery to power most of the electronics so there is probably a drop based on how many accessories you are using.
With the harness out and apart it probably would be a better idea to run a power wire from my distribution block to my window relays.
Thanks for that.

weswisehart

Man I really enjoyed going through the pages on this. Awesome fab work. What did you use for the sound deadening? Your front nose work and radiator work has pushed me further into redoing my radiator support. Keep up the awesome work.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I worked on the interior wiring harness some more last night and also cleaned up the wiring mess that I left when I did my Gauge cluster: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...i-made-my.html





I didn't like using spade connectors but at the time I didn't want to order any weatherpack connectors. What I ended up doing was salvaging two connectors from the convertible's harness (not using that harness). I'm using the connector that linked the rear of the body wiring harness to the exterior rear and tailight harness. It's a nice small 8 pin connector. I'm also using the 6 pin connector from underneath the steering wheel. It's a fatter connector and still only 6 slots. The wiring issue with the gauges is much more tame now.





The body harness also looks better but I still need to add in the Shaved door handles circuit and an extra power wire for the windows. I must have taped up the harness and then cut the tape of a half dozen times to re-route or remove a wire.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I'm actually surprised you didn't recognize it, unless you're playing coy: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...ing-quiet.html

It's just the regular Peel and Seal from the hardware stores: http://www.homedepot.com/p/USEAL-USA...2AF6/202086180
It's slightly humerous that half of the reviews on Home Depot's website are for car guys who use it as dound deadening.
Plenty of members here (including yourself) have used it and given it good reviews.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/car-...ick-truth.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...deadening.html
I'm in the crowd that thinks it will work nearly as well as the name brand automotive specific options at a fraction of the price. I still have the rest of the firewall to do along with the rear area. I'm going to try using a heat gun also next.

weswisehart

I was wondering if that was the route you took. That was in my last camaro that i got rid of when I found a T-top 5 speed. I have since put it in this car as well.
It gets plenty hot here in central Texas and Ive never smelled it. Exactly if it works anywhere near as good and is cheaper im game for trying it.

grngryoutmyway

iTrader: (1)

Nice, I need to do this as well. How many rolls worth of it is in the picture?

Isn't that how your are supposed to do wiring?

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I took another idea from fueledsoul, in deleting my heater and air conditioning I used the now open area to make a plate and mount some wiring to it. The plate is grounded via a chassis ground and the relays are grounded to the plate. The top left two relays are for my door popper solenoids, bottom four are for my power windows. The power windows and poppers relays will receive their power from the small fuse panel in the top right. The fuse panel will be a direct power, not the round about shared power for everything in the car. Still need to mount my ecm and vats box. Also got the carpet in and a door on.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Only two rolls in that picture.

weswisehart

Looking good. Your wiring is very clean looking.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Thanks. I removed a few circuits and the harness is much thinner now. The area that was real thick wire loom above the steering wheel and to the left where it turned down to go to the C100 connector and/or the fuse block is now loose in that wire loom. The circuits I added don't add much bulk to the wiring harness because it will take power and ground from a separate source and is on the other side of the body. Even when adding in the circuits for the power windows and door poppers I was able to use existing wiring from the other harness so I don't have a dozen red wires and a bunch of black wires. I made my own schematics.

The buttons for the door poppers, power windows and trunk lid will all be on the center console. I rewired the switches a few years back:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...-switches.html
I rewired the buttons again so that the power for the relay switching is coming through the stock wiring and the power for the window motors is coming through the the relays from a separate power source. I just had to lengthen the wires for the buttons.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I finished the fuel pump modifications. I followed what Big Mods suggested in this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...ml#post3868614
I cut off the line for the Charcoal canister, clamped it shut with a pair of pliers and then welded the seam shut. And yes, of course I did this with the pickup still mounted to the full tank of gas.
The line that the AN braided line is on with the fuel injection clamps is just the vent line.
I don't know about you guys but fuel pump changes no longer scare me!




And mounted in place after a very thorough cleaning of the gas tank, inside and outside. I decided against painting the gas tank. I would rather get a fourth gen fuel plastic tank than paint one of these. Not because it's hard, It's just an area that I felt as long as it's clean its in an area that no one is going to see. Muffler, suspension and rearend will obscure it.