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I've been trying to remove the old undercoating for the past week without much luck. I've used acetone, mineral spirits, a torch, a heat gun, and a mouse sander. The acetone and spirits did little if anything, and even though the gun and torch worked amazingly well, I'm not comfortable using them with the carpet still in the car. The sander is hard to use because it grinds to bare metal so quickly. Is that bad? I don't know...opinions!
I read on here that someone used Gunk engine degreaser, so I bought a can of it the other day. I sprayed it on and let it sit overnight, then yesterday I attached a wire brush to a drill and it comes off quite well. Again, I'm not sure if going to bare metal is a good thing. In my head I'm worried that it'll rust.
The area around my axle was pretty covered in gear lube from a leaking pinion seal so I figured that I'd just degrease it and go (wasn't after taking the undercoat off). I loaded some superclean/purplepower (purple degreaser, don't remember which, they seem to all be the same), in a pump sprayer and soaked the back half of the bottom of the car down. I was surprised to find that the undercoat was just sheeting off the car, so I sprayed it down and scrubbed a little and found that I could get most of the tunnel the axle area, the rear floor pans... down to what looked like grey primer (the car was red, most of the red paint was gone) in a couple of hours.
Thanks for the info crossfire, I'll have to look into this because I'm not getting anywhere with much luck. I've been scrubbing now for a few weeks and all I have to show for it is a couple wheel wells and a truck lip.
On another note, I was bored and decided to rice out my tool box.
just a quick update for everyone. I'm still Under the car removing the old undercoat. I've sanded the gas tank shields and gave them a coat of primer. I'm going to let the paint cure a few days before I apply the bedliner to them. This is my second try at it. I believe there was some moisture still in the paint when I sprayed the liner the first time and it bubbled up on me. Hey! it's a learning thing I've also removed the shaft and steering box, so it looks like I'm ready to have the bay painted....as soon as I remove the _______ undercoating!!!
This week I was contemplating whether or not to purchase a new fuel tank, but I decided that this was an area where I could save a few dollars. After pulling the tank I really didn't think that it was worth keeping, but so far it doesn't look all that bad. I'll let it dry for a couple days then apply a few coats of bedliner.
I did, however, manage to make an order for a new in-tank fuel pump. The pump that came with the Stealth Ram kit was damaged and didn't look to be a direct fit anyways.
Also, just to make myself feel like I'm getting anywhere with the bottom of the car, I sprayed a wheel well with primer.
Today I finished the fuel tank and installed the Walbro fuel pump, which I have to say went surprisingly smooth. Before I parked the car I was having fuel pressure issues, which left me scratching my head. After removing the sending unit I now believe it was caused by a worn out pulsator.
So it's another "PLAN B". When this whole project began, before I even knew it was a project, I bought a new Pioneer deck to replace the old one that had been in the car since '97. At the time I didn't think I was doing anything to the car, but a head unit swap. Ever since I bought the new deck, I felt that I should have picked a better model.....well I sold the "old" new deck and replaced it with this...
Also, I might be slowing down for the next couple months as I'm installing a unit heater in the garage. I'll keep everyone up to date if anything changes.
just received these in the mail today. I know it's probably not what a lot of you guys would do, but I'm not a huge car audiophile and I was just looking for something that sounds decent. More to come!
Curious to know what you're using for paint on the underside and wheel wells. Sounds like you won't be using undercoating on any part of this car. You going with a single stage urethane, enamel? Use g a roller to apply it or a gun?
Curious to know what you're using for paint on the underside and wheel wells. Sounds like you won't be using undercoating on any part of this car. You going with a single stage urethane, enamel? Use g a roller to apply it or a gun?
I won't be painting the underside Tibo, I'm going to undercoat the car as soon as I completely remove the old junk.
After reading all the problems people on here have had with the B&M Megashifter and how the cable they supply is supposed to loop around the transmission, I decided that upgrading the cable was the way to go. I'm in the middle of installing it and should have it mounted in the next couple days.
Also, I received more mail today. These speakers will hopefully compliment the subs.
today I was able to finish up the shifter install, as well as wire in the head unit.
The shifter wasn't exactly a direct fit, as I had to grind down on the front ratchet plate so that it wouldn't knock up against the top cover plate. Also, the rear hold down bracket doesn't exactly have a lot of wiggle room between itself and the cross-frame support. All in all I think it's an upgrade over the stock piece.
Any update? I need to post the pics of mine during the restore process...I know exactly what youre going through haha. I used the badass wire wheel on a 4 inch right angle grinder and went to town for two weeks. Degreaser did absolutely nothing. I used kerosene once I get all the under coating off and then degreased the kerosene off before I shot it with the undercoating.
Any update? I need to post the pics of mine during the restore process...I know exactly what youre going through haha. I used the badass wire wheel on a 4 inch right angle grinder and went to town for two weeks. Degreaser did absolutely nothing. I used kerosene once I get all the under coating off and then degreased the kerosene off before I shot it with the undercoating.
Hey Propaintball,
By chance, did you spray any primer on before coating? I remember looking at your photos, I just can't remember your exact steps, but I have become very familiar with my angle grinder.
This week I've got most of the interior panels removed so that I can route all the numerous amp/speaker wires to the trunk space.
Also, the nitrous kit came in the mail today and I have to say that I'm a little excited at the idea of having roughly 750 horses at the push of a button....smiles per gallon!
Hey Propaintball,
By chance, did you spray any primer on before coating? I remember looking at your photos, I just can't remember your exact steps, but I have become very familiar with my angle grinder.
I would use epoxy on anything that's down to bare metal, then I would undercoat.
First rule in government spending. Why buy 1 when you can buy 2 twice the price.
I haven't been able to find any photos on TGO of anybody that has attempted to direct port a Stealth Ram. I've picked up a fogger just to test fit and see how complicated it looks. I'm going to take to a local machine shop to get their opinion. It looks like it should clear all wiring and cables. Thoughts??
right now I'm in the stages of planning my nitrous setup. I've decided that Im going to direct port the Holley Stealth Ram intake. Also, my order came in the mail today. I decided on a NOS Ntimidator, blue LED, dual purge kit.
This is a rough idea of what I'm planning for the rear hatch area. Nitrous Outlet has a dual bracket kit that I will be ordering in the near future.
Though I'm not at that point of putting thought into it, I am really hoping that I can find a company that can/will be able to smoke the glass instead. I'm not a fan of sheeted window tint. At some point I'll have to do some research because I could be chasing a ghost, and my only option could be using tint
Though I'm not at that point of putting thought into it, I am really hoping that I can find a company that can/will be able to smoke the glass instead. I'm not a fan of sheeted window tint. At some point I'll have to do some research because I could be chasing a ghost, and my only option could be using tint
I did mine myself and used about $75 worth of good two ply tint. I got it on the third try. Call around and any shop that will tint it for under $200 is worth it.
Your project is coming along nice, man! When do you figure you'll be painting?
I'm hoping to have it painted by April 1. After mid May in Arizona it can be too hot to paint so everything else is on hold till the body is painted. Then I can work on the interior and checking wiring, and of course transferring nearly everything over from my other car. I really took a step back in painting the dash in plastic-dip, I know have to peel it all off. I'm really not looking forward to the underbody after seeing your hassle. I have no rust and minimal undercoating in the wheel wells but still....
Can't wait to see these completed photos Propaintball!!
As for my own update. Today my front brake kit arrived. I've opted to go with the Baer 13" Pro+ kit. I chose the black calipers because I think they'll give the best contrast, and I didn't want the brakes to overshadow the wheels.
Also, the old undercoat is almost completely removed, which is good because the car is scheduled to be in the spray booth for the 15th of July. It might seem a long way off, but Damn! does life get in the way sometimes, lol!
Originally I was giving a lot of thought to Candy Apple Red, but after going over all the costs and required maintenance to a candy coat, I've decided on a more realistic approach. After talking to my body guy, he's steered me towards a Crystal Red Metallic. It's a pretty sharp looking color. Thoughts?
Originally I was giving a lot of thought to Candy Apple Red, but after going over all the costs and required maintenance to a candy coat, I've decided on a more realistic approach. After talking to my body guy, he's steered me towards a Crystal Red Metallic. It's a pretty sharp looking color. Thoughts?
If you're looking into some pretty or flashy color have you looked into house of Kolor? Their stock colors are comparable to the more expensive DuPont colors. I do agree candy apple could be difficult to spray evenly over the entire car unless it were a pro with a reputation and he did it all at once. Candy coat shouldn't require any more maintenance than a black. Any new pics of the underside?
Ha! Thanks for the insight Tibo! It's been a while since updating. I think I finally have my head on straight. I have decided to use HOK after all. I'll be spraying Brandywine over Galaxy Grey. I'll get you some photos the next time I'm under it.
I'm waiting for the weather seals to arrive in the mail. In the next few months I'll be ordering a new hood along with a spoiler from Hawks. here are a few photos of the body work in its early stages. The Windows will be removed along with the doors.
I think you'll be happy with house of color. I almost went with them but I decided to go regular arctic white. Let us know your opinion of the clear, spray wise. I saw the orbital sander, make sure to at least use a long board on the fender between the door and wheel well and wheel well and bumper. All three f bodies I've painted had low spots there. On the front fenders by the antenna can be smoother and sometimes between the front wheel and the door can have a low spot. And if you have time and a mig welder you can weld the seams in the engine bay.
Yeah, I seen that you had done that on your build, but I'm nowhere near as gifted as you Tibo, lol! I've used a mig welder ONCE in my lifetime and that did not go well. The body work is being done by a friend of mine who works in a shop, but does this for extra cash on the side.
Tonight I'm etch priming underneath the car so it'll be ready to re-seal tomorrow. Once that sets up I'll spray it with Proforms rubberized aerosol undercoating. I've heard some good things about this company from a few locals, so we'll see. I'll get some photos up of the progress in the next few days.
Also, today I received the 5" spoiler from Hawks Motorsports. Looks like I'll be welding up almost every hole and punching out some new ones to make this thing straight. Kind of annoying considering the price we pay for this part. I'll be modifying the spoiler to accept an LED bar for the third brake light. The emblems I received were spot on, and I recommend them to anyone. It's just a shame that I couldn't find them in IROC form.
This was merely a guide coat to see where everything was. There were a few spots that needed to be repaired. Unfortunately some time was wasted smoothing the antenna because after fixing a blemish, an area was found to be rather thin, so we ordered a new front fender and we'll be starting over.
It took nearly 8 hours to degrease the engine bay, and we destroyed numerous rags to clean it all up. In the coming weeks the windows and doors will be removed and we'll begin working on the rest of the car. Originally I was going to look into having the windows smoked, but it might be more practical to have them professionally tinted. Time will tell.
Just a couple photos of the progress made this week. The etch prime had to be re-done because the product from Dupli-color wasn't really giving me the results I was looking for, so we started from scratch and went with an etch primer from U-pol.
Here's a couple photos of the first stage of the undercoat. Also, we'll be spending some time trying to shape the rear spoiler into something that fits this car
From what I can see it looks great. What made you chose undercoating instead of a paint for the underbody? ;
Thanks Tibo! I went with undercoat mostly because of the harsh winters up here and what the city uses to melt the ice. Even after the roads are swept, there is still residue left that takes a while to wash away.
08-17-2015, 01:39 PM
I've also removed the shaft and steering box, so it looks like I'm ready to have the bay painted....as soon as I remove the _______ undercoating!!! 
