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Our tow hook threads into the crash bar that we had fabricated. This is not something that we will offer as a product. With the current location of the plug, using our method on a factory bumper support would require quite a bit of cutting/drilling to attach a hook to a proper chassis point.
Note to self, add this to the list of items to talk to the DSE reps about at Summit Motorama in April....
I suspected that was the case since I've spent the last year trying to sort out how to hook one to a factory frame point on both the front and rear without interfering with other items or completely destroying the bumper. It gets even more fun with a Firebird if you try to find a spot on the front that will let the hook out a factory opening so you don't have to cut the bumper cover.
You've got a couple of months until PPIR to figure out front and rear tow hooks. Clearly marked and minimum of 2 inches in diameter. Rear will be easier than the front from an accessibility standpoint. Front bumper will make the front one interesting to do without cutting a hole for it.
You've got a couple of months until PPIR to figure out front and rear tow hooks. Clearly marked and minimum of 2 inches in diameter. Rear will be easier than the front from an accessibility standpoint. Front bumper will make the front one interesting to do without cutting a hole for it.
Yeah I do. If I could take back time I would have finished that off while I had the bumper cover off, but barely made the PPIR event last year anyway. It will be done.
We have the body back after a quick touch-up blast and the underside of the hood has been cleaned up and primed. Everything is now being prepped for epoxy. Stay tuned...
Looking great guys. Glad to see someone welded up the bottle mount holes. I'm really jealous of the master cylinder mount set up. Excited to see the next stage!
More body shop progress getting the engine bay primed and smoothed out...
What has been smoothed out? Do you mean you wet sanded the primer? I noticed the picture that shows the body filler spread on like a blanket, I really hope you sanded most of that off. The larger the surface area that body filler has the more prone to cracking/failure it becomes. I use Evercoat Rage Ultra and I had called them when I did my engine bay and the representative had said not to go over 6" in circumference unless it was almost a translucent thin coat.
What has been smoothed out? Do you mean you wet sanded the primer? I noticed the picture that shows the body filler spread on like a blanket, I really hope you sanded most of that off. The larger the surface area that body filler has the more prone to cracking/failure it becomes. I use Evercoat Rage Ultra and I had called them when I did my engine bay and the representative had said not to go over 6" in circumference unless it was almost a translucent thin coat.
Do you know who DSE is and the level of builds that they are putting together in their shop??? I'm gonna guess nobody needed to call a tech line to figure out how much filler was ok to put on before final prime... I'm no pro body man, but I see nothing excessive in the areas pictured.
Do you know who DSE is and the level of builds that they are putting together in their shop??? I'm gonna guess nobody needed to call a tech line to figure out how much filler was ok to put on before final prime... I'm no pro body man, but I see nothing excessive in the areas pictured.
BADNBLK--I'm no professional bodyman either which is why I had called Evercoat. There are limits in regards to the usage of body filler, it even states so on the side of the can by issuing a maximal thickness boundary but there is no mention of maximal surface area covered. The larger the area covered the thinner the application of filler needs to be. One of the other interesting tidbits that the representative told me (that I hope DSE didn't fall victim too also) is that Body fillers do not chemically bond with Epoxies, they will only stick with adhesion so you have to use uber coarse sandpaper to where the epoxy primer is almost gone. You also have to wait until the epoxy has fully gassed off. Putting filler right on top of Epoxies may lead to adhesion problems down the line.
Do you know who DSE is and the level of builds that they are putting together in their shop??? I'm gonna guess nobody needed to call a tech line to figure out how much filler was ok to put on before final prime... I'm no pro body man, but I see nothing excessive in the areas pictured.
BADNBLK REMEMBER THERES ALWAY ONE KEYBOARD WARRIOR IN THE BUNCH..Next he wil be telling chip fosse how to paint lol
This week's update features more body shop progress. The car is just about ready to be primed, but we had to take a short pause and shoot the upcoming product catalog with our friends at Norton Abrasives!
Third Gens are becoming accustom to the lime light these days!
You think the popularity of these cars is on the rebound? I've been waiting 20 years to be cool again!
Some of us have had a theory on this for a couple of years. The people who were in their late teens and early 20s when the cars were new, had to give them up for families and careers. Now those same people are to the point where the kids are out of college and married and they suddenly have disposable income and nostalgia has them looking to get a toy again. And they've gone looking to get their first car back. Only this time, they can afford to make it so much better than the original one was. We take ours to a lot of events around the country and hear this theme a lot. "It was my first car and we've had it stored out back for the last ten years. Seeing yours I want to get it out and update it" or "I had one of these back in XXXX. Maybe I'll go get another one and build it for a weekend car". And this is largely being said by couples in their 50's. What I like best about this resurgance in interest is the number of companies, like DSE, that are entering the market with new products.
Could you give some more info on the pass side engine mount? I'm going to be running the same dry sump system and my engine mount hits the pump. I was planning on running a custom mount unless you guys had one the worked. Also, did you clearance the kmember to fit the scavenge lines in there?
That would be a great help to know what top shops like to use and what sort of results they get. (clearly amazing)
The bedliner is UPOL Raptor and is a spray-on application. Before applying the liner, everything is prepped then sprayed with epoxy primer. As far as all of our paints/primers/clears we use PPG Refinish.
Hey DT, thanks for filling us in on coatings used!
Great to see the build moving forward. I think I will try the bedliner in the wheel tubs too. Great idea. Even better execution!
You guys are using a stock K-member correct? No faith in the aftermarket units? Or do you see them as not needed? Just curious to learn a bit more about the reasoning.
The wheels are Formula 43 RAD5's. Formula 43 is no longer in business, so these wheels are unfortunately out of production.
I've been looking for wheels for 5 years and the one my eye finally catches isn't available any more. If you could say they were super expensive then it would at least make me feel better.
03-09-2017, 09:23 AM
I'm gonna guess nobody needed to call a tech line to figure out how much filler was ok to put on before final prime... I'm no pro body man, but I see nothing excessive in the areas pictured. 
