GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Underside of the car nearly finished up. I think this is a composite of a few pics stitched together. Looks pretty cool.

You can also see the V-band clamp just before the exhaust goes over the axle. No cutting of the exhaust if I need to drop the trans.



Broken exhaust stud was finally removed, as pointed out by Fair's "Janky stick".

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...91z-ls1-3.html

Post 105 has the details.

I was going to upload the pics again when I noticed that Photobucket must have realized they'd shot themselves in the foot because all of my pics work again.

Billgluckman

Ok I can see the pics in the link you just posted but if you go to your thread and look at the first page you still can't see them.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

There was a bit of a pause, but Vorshlag got back to work on my car again. Got the 4th gen parking brake bracket welded in place.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Why switch to the fourth gen bracket? The stock thirdgen brake lines for a 91-92 Z28 with rear disc brakes works perfect for the LS1 rear ends. It looks and works like factory on my car.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

For one, I already had the LS1 cables and didn't have any 91-92 disc cables.

I was under the impression the thirdgen cables would still need minor modifying and the routing would be different than both LS1 routing and thirdgen routing.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...er-ebrake.html

Making a bracket like the link above seems like the easiest route. Instead of fabbing one, I just used the 4th gen one. Also the routing is factory. Another plus is the cables are still a stock replacement part. If I ever need to replace one, goto parts store, buy, install without having to remodify.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

That thread has sooooo much misinformation in it. I posted in it (https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...ml#post6147823) about what which cable works and what not. Basically there are 2 cables for a thirdgen with rear discs, a shorter one that has ends that need to be opened up or have the pawl on the Ebrake assembly shaved. The longer cable is literally a snap in fit for the LS rear. LT1 rears may require something else but LS it's a snap in with nothing to modify. Wish I could have told you this sooner and saved you that work/modification.

yevgenievich

iTrader: (4)

The brake cables already done, but I have also just used the longer 91-92 on my 4th gen rear. Came here following the heater valve discussion, and found a nice build. I had a different lower rad hose part number saved to try and added yours as well. The 7.3 one that I originally installed years ago did not fit well

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Not the end of the world on the parking cables. Hindsight looks like there was an easier way. This way should work just fine tho so I probably won't change anything.

Vorshlag cut and rewelded the tab on the Canton tank. You don’t understand (well, maybe you do) how happy this makes me.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Wilwood prop valve (260-11179) to LS1 master lines have now been bent.
3/8"-24 to 11mmx1.5 3/16" line (PAA-Y311)
3/8"-24 to 12mmx1.0 3/16" line (PAA-B312)





Still working…

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Next they modified my UMI bar (2009-B) into a custom 3 point.

Tacked in place…


Inserts for the cowl mounting point.


Fully welded.


Strut tower attachments.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

STB looks good. The through bolt area for the rod end is probably thick enough and low enough that it doesn't warrant being boxed in. Something else you might consider is using the top piece as a template and mounting that piece on the underside of the wheel well so the wheel well is essentially sandwiched between the metal. I did that on mine to ensure the bolt holes didn't get pulled or made conical.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I considered that (and may still do it) for the strut mounts since I've bent those before, but hadn't considered the brace mounts since there's always the debate of whether strut tower braces really actually do anything (much). Should be easy to do even as a just in case. Thanks.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Flaring the lines in the car. They ended up taking the rear line out and flaring it out of the car.
3/8-24 for 3/16" line Inverted Flare Tube Nuts (BLF12C5) for the front lines.
7/16-24 for 1/4" line Inverted Flare Tube Nut (BLF13C5) to a 7/16-24 to 3/8-24 adapter (BLF23C) for the rear line.



All done and ready to be picked up!

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Drove back up to Plano to pick up the car. Pushed it onto the trailer, strapped it down, and brought her home.

And it now has an official name. It was gone for quite a while, longer than expected. Some questioned if it actually existed. There were discrepancies from those that claimed they saw it; some at Vorshlag called it green, some called it teal. There was photographic evidence that it did exist, but clearly some of the photos had been doctored. When I talked to some coworkers about my end goals, and they commented, “It’ll be a monster when it’s done.” Once I do get it running, it'll only be driven sporadically, so sightings will be rare.
I give you… Nessie.


I was born in Scotland, btw.

I had previously bought a factory service manual for a ’92 when I did the TPI swap into Knocker. Found it to be invaluable.


Sooo, I ordered a set of service manuals for a ‘99 Camaro on eBay. Found an auction with Vol 1 and a separate auction with Vol 2 & 3… from Alaska. $50 for all three. These should help a lot with wiring. While there is a lot of diagrams online, most only concern the engine functions. These should cover everything.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

I bought those exact same '99 service manuals. They're awesome, then I found almost everything I needed here:

http://lt1swap.com/98-02_ls1.htm

LS1 pinouts and schematics.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I used that site along with a few others. I can't remember my tipping point, but it was something about where the stock wiring to the gauge cluster all came from that made me give in and buy the manuals. Lots of stuff out there on the net for pinouts, but not the complete picture.

Pulled the headers off and had my dad drop them off at PolyDyn in NW Houston. Also pulled off the center section of the exhaust to paint the ball sockets since they’re still just mild steel. I still can't get over the fact that so many exhaust shops never think about serviceability, and basically force you to cut the exhaust to drop the trans and then reweld it up.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Picked up the headers from PolyDyn. Very pleased with the coating they did.
Looks a lot more robust that what I expected. If it helps underhood temps, I'm all for it.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

One of the things I had on my list of things for Vorshlag to do was to install the lower control arm relocation brackets. I mentioned to them that the rear end had hit a curb and I had intended to get it checked for straightness before putting it in the car, but flatout forgot. We decided it would be better to hold off installing the LCARB’s until after I got the rearend checked.
So I pulled the rearend out again, stripped it down and took it to Pyle Brothers in Baytown to get the axle tubes welded (for insurance) and to have it checked it for straightness.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Headers reinstalled with BRP stainless bolts and Percy’s aluminum gaskets (66032).



Installed a ground stud by JL Audio (XB-MGLU) and got the distribution block mounted for a ’96 Impala (10240847). Yes, I could have just used a regular bolt for the ground, but this gives a more finished look. Plus, I feel it makes it as tho the humps in the inner fender have a purpose. I plan on mounting an LT1 fuse/relay box between the junction block and the airbox.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Interested to see and hear more about this.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Installed the Hawk’s power steering pully (CBW-014B). Picked this one over some of the others out there like Turn One’s because this is a simple 5 spoke and will blend in better with the factory-ish look I'm going for. Rented the power steering tool from Autozone, removed, cleaned, and installed the new pulley.





Also replaced the cruise control module/cable with one that wasn’t broken.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Brushed on some Rustoleum gloss black on the rearend after picking it up from Pyle Brothers. They replaced the carrier bearings also while they had it. Got everything bolted back on and ready to go back under the car.



Bolted it back into the car the next day, but my Craftsman torque wrench had other plans and decided to break, so the rear isn't quite finished. I did install a new factory correct vent from eBay, 7/16" hole since mine had a hole worn in it from I assume the parking brake cable.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Got a new Craftsman torque wrench during the week. Since the current warranty on torque wrenches is only a year (or 1 1/2, I can't remember), I had to pay for a new one. Got lucky in that they were on sale for $40, tho I have a feeling I'll be warrantying this one before the year is up.

With that out of the was, I was able to finish up torquing the bolts on the rearend and install the starter.

I started working on the new air box to make more room for the LT1 fuse/relay box.
Nothing too exciting. As mentioned before, I didn't want to smooth out the fender and leave them bare with as much other stuff there is cluttering up the engine bay. So this spot now looks like it has a purpose and something is meant to be there.

Plan right now is to run a ground from the battery to the engine, another ground from the battery to the frame, and a ground strap on the passenger side head to the frame.
Run the main power wire from the battery to the starter and another smaller wire to one of these mounted on the side of the radiator support...

http://www.connectorconcepts.com/pofumowicoan.html

Run a 20amp? to the blower fan, and a 60amp to a wire that runs thru the radiator support to the first lug of that distribution block on the passenger side. Also run a wire from that lug to the alternator. Run a few wires from the other lug to the fuse/relay box for the engine, one to the headlight relay block on the firewall, and one/two to the 3rd gen C-100 for interior and rear lights. The JL ground stud will be for the relay's and anything from the harness.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

It's now been exactly a year to the day since I started really working on this car. Sadly it's still not done and I had really hoped to be driving it by now. On the plus side, it's hot as hell right now, and it'd be miserable to drive without A/C. I vow to have it done and driving before the end of the year. 25th anniversary car rebuilt 25 years later. And this thread is now up to date.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I've been working on my car for 2 years and 2 months now. I told my wife it would be done November 2016..... whoops.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

In between two rain showers from Hurricane Harvey, I nipped out to the garage and installed my new headlight housings and bulbs. I went with 4 Hella H4 housings (HL79566) from Rallylights.com, ceramic connectors (H4F-Kit-C) from HiPoParts.com, and PIAA bulbs (10704 & 23-10104) from Summit and Amazon. I'll wire up the connectors later. I went with all H4 so I can use the low filament of the high beams as daytime running lights. Night Tech for the low beams and Xtreme White Hybrid for the highs/drl.





Also installed new seat belt buttons tonight. The bag is labeled 10259113. I have in my spreadsheet GM p/n 14097930 for the kit. They were a perfect match though and came with new springs and metal guide (that I didn't install). Anyone know what the difference between these two part numbers is?

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I'm very, very fortunate. Water levels only got to slightly higher than pictured here, so the house and garage stayed dry. Many others are not so fortunate. A subdivision just to our north, and two over to the east, and parts to our south had water inside homes. Coast Guard and National Guard helicopters in the sky. If you can spare $10, I would encourage anyone to donate. The response of giving has been inspiring. Some of the statistics on this storm are incredible.

Street behind my garage.


Front yard.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Finished up redoing the airbox to make room for the LT1 fuse/relay box. Once I get the bracket for the fusebox, I'll pull it out again to drill the mounting holes for the bracket to the airbox, and paint it all black.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Started to lay out the wiring harnesses today. I had previously trimmed down the LS1 engine harness, and the 3G C100 harness. Still, it's going to take a while to get it all sorted the way I want it.



Basically, my goal is to be able to have it similar to how you don't have to remove the LS1 harness from the engine in order to remove the engine. The PCM will be in the factory 3G location. I'm repurposing the 4G C100, C101 & C105 connectors and placing them near the driverside firewall which unfortunately means lengthening all of them. One is for the fuse/relay box to the engine. One is from the fuse/relay box to the PCM. The other will be just for the cruise to the PCM & to C220, which also carries the O/P and B/U. C230 mostly stays the same, PCM to interior. Disconnect the C100, C101, C102, C105 in the engine bay, unplug the C220, C230 from the interior and unplug the C1 and C2 from the PCM and route them thru the 3G hole behind the fender.

This is my plan to help me keep things straight.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Slow progress. Modified the factory ecm mount to accept the LS1 pcm. Secures it surprisingly well.





Took some time to cut most of the commons and really separate out the individual connectors. I really see why some people lay out the wiring with the engine out of the car.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Drilled a hole and mounted the fused junction block by the battery. One 20amp will goto the blower fan, the other 60amp will run along the radiator support and to the junction block on the passenger side. No fusible links by the starter for me.

Vacuum caps fit nicely.


Also spliced in a few more connectors. The alternator one was damaged, so that got replaced. The MAF is now a 5 wire. The other thing I wanted to do was get rid of the one connector for four of the coils on each side. I get that with the stock valve covers, it's easier to disconnect on connector than 4, but to me is unnecessary. Besides that, my coil harness was very stiff and brittle. I will "plug" EFI Performance Wiring (eBay) for being the only one I found that offered the coil connectors with the correct color wires for all 8.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Extended about 50 wires this weekend. Need the rest of the injectors, coils, power, cruise, and trans wiring. Still need to do the headlight wiring too, but I'm happy with the progress. I've been using solder butt connectors like these. So far, so good.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Since I'm using the 4th gen gas tank and eventually the LS1 cluster, I swapped out the wiring for the tank too. Bought a MetriPack terminal kit and replaced the gray fuel pump wire with 14ga SXL wire. Also replaced the ground with the factory 3rd gen ground which was a larger gauge and had a nicer grounding point under the center console.



Used the gasket as a bit of the template. Drilled a hole in each corner and used a dremel with a cut off wheel to finish off. Covered the existing hole with a bit of the factory sealer before riveting it in place.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Also got my tank back from the machine shop. They fixed the damaged threads for the pipe fitting and replaced it with a nickle plated one from Eddie Motorsports (MS115-1438-90) I got from Summit.

I also ordered a 'oil' level sight glass (64829336) from MSC Direct. It has straight threads instead of pipe threads so it sits flush with a gasket for a seal. I filled the 4th gen tank up with water to the full line, dumped it into the canton tank, then marked the approximate level on the canton tank. The shop made and welded in the bung at the spot I marked.

I think I want to paint it a medium gray instead of leaving it natural aluminum.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

[/QUOTE]

I did the exact same thing on my car. However I'm only using 4 wires. Pump GND, Sender GND, Sender fuel level, fuel pump power.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Got some more parts in.

Found these (p/n 08905563) from Mouser. There's the plastic studs for the C101 etc connectors.



My new battery cables also came in from CEAuto.



Found a guy on FB who was making hats, with custom color combinations. Some motivation to get the car running! Also picked up a supposedly NOS rear emblem. Figure I'll hold onto it until I get the car repainted. Since it's something of a limited supply, rather get it now than it not being available later. Now to find a safe place for it that I won't forget.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Got the custom cut brackets in from my fellow CMC racer. Super excited about these parts. The catch can bracket raises and pulls in the catch can away from the heater hoses. I used the one that came with the can as a template, made some adjustments out of paper and cardboard, then cadded the design. The second bracket is to attach my LT1 fuse/relay box. The leg is a little long and funny in that it will have to twist to the body bump it will bolt to.







Installed a new master cylinder since the old one was pretty gunky and bench bled it with Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 Synthentic. Ran the new battery cables too. Also put on the strut brace that came back from the powdercoater (Coates). Had various things powdercoated, this was the first from Coates. I'll definitely be using him for future things.



Unfortunately, also ran into a slight snag. I'm running the harness thru the factory 'grommet' behind the fender that I opened up and cleaned out. Apparently as I was lengthening the wires, I guess I started doing them shorter and shorter a little bit each time as I did them. When I went to plug the connectors into the PCM and then put it into the mount, I'm about 2" short. I'll have to see what wires are tight and either redo them or see if I have enough wiggle room. I currently have the bundles zip tied every foot or so, so the first thing I'll do is cut those and see if the tight wires get any slack. For now, the PCM is just sitting on the floorboard.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Went ahead and bought a new battery to replace the Walmart special. I want an AGM but didn't want to go with Optima (hit or miss lately) or Interstate (can't stand the green). I tried a Duralast 78-AGM. It looks JUST like the ACDelco one. Since most batteries are made by only a few different manufactures and just rebadged, I gave it a shot. Unfortunately, my information was bad. The 78 didn't fit. I think I had thought at one time I was going to use the 4th gen battery tray, so it would fit that.

Autozone didn't have a 75 AGM like that, so I stepped up to an Odyssey (0753-2035). One thing I was surprised at is that this battery is a full 9lbs heavier than the Walmart one.



Getting close enough to firing up for the first time, I changed out fluids too.
Mobil 1 5W-30, Wix oil filter, Valvoline Power Steering Fluid, Castrol Transmax Dex/Merc for the T56, Valvoline 75W-90, and Prestone AF-2000/Purified water.
The coolant sightglass works as planned!

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Over the next few days, I was able to wire up the LT1 fuse and relay box. I know a lot of harnesses really cut down on the fuses and relays used, and make everything 'stand alone'. I really have no problem integrating the harness into the 3rd gen. I think it just looks more factory. I depinned a lot out of the 3rd gen C100, even tho I really didn't have to. I also have the factory LS1 fan setup with three relays for low and high fans.

Delphi terminals all sourced from Mouser.
12004568-L
12052227-L
12015865-L
12015864-L
12020334-L
12020321-L
12020400-L



I'm just short a dual 87 relay (and spare) I want to use for the ignition relay.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Got everything in, ready to fire up for the first time. Connected the battery and wow, there was a lot of arcing between the battery and the connector as well as clicking from some relays. Dumbass me forgot the key was 'on' in order to turn the wheels. Turned it off, fixed the brake light switch that got bumped and connected the battery again.

It cranked, but no fire. After a few times, it stopped even cranking. There is a solid thud at the starter. Put the charger on the battery. A real solid thud at the starter now. Also don't hear the fuel pump which is probably why it didn't start the first time.

Unfortunately/fortunately, I leave for Scotland the next day. Just enough time to order a new AC Delco starter (337-1115) from RockAuto and drop in Racetronix Fuel pump (FPA-001B) from WS6 Store and have them here for when I return.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Installed the starter and cranked it over a few times for good measure. Starter thankfully didn't require any shimming.

I then moved onto the fuel pump. Dropping the LS1 tank is 10x easier than the third gen tank due to the flexible filler neck. I guessed correctly and it came out without having to completely remove the rear end. The brake lines, torque arm, and rear lower control arms remains attached.

The retaining ring fought me a bit, but eventually gave way. Once I got the bucket out, it was obvious the pump was trashed. The old bucket was pretty nasty with gunk and rust. Both the plastic feed and and the venturi lines to the pump crumbled simply touching them.

The Racetronix pump came with a very detailed set of instructions, 22 steps or so with pictures. I went ahead and added a fuel level sender "kit" (SUR&R
GM64) while I had it apart. Took off the pressure relief valve and cleaned it as best I could with some WD40. It's a shame you can't buy a stock one by itself without the rest of the bucket. Everything went together fairly smoothly until I had to put on the venturi tube. It kinked almost immediately. Trying to bend it in the correct curve made it kink in three places. I posted on LS1Tech and the consensus was a little trimming and a little heat should do the trick. WS6 store offered to send a replacement, but I instead ordered two ventrui tubes from Quantum Fuel Systems. It looked to already have a bend to it.

While waiting on the new tube to arrive, I gave the tank a good cleaning. Amazed at the amount of crud that was in that thing. I also replaced the fuel pump power wire in the chassis to tank harness with the same 14ga I used for the rest of the circuit.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

New tube (and a spare) arrived a few days ago. Spend quite some time finessing it to get it to fit onto the bucket and the pump nipples, and used some heat to reshape it with a bend.



I got the pump and bucket installed back into the tank and upon installing the tank into the car, the feed and return lines didn't look right. I have them different lengths to avoid the possibility of getting them backwards. Dropped the tank again. Apparently, it looks like I got them backwards the first time I cut the lines and put the fittings on. Oops. Swapped them around and now one is a little long and the other a little short. I'll have to later fix that, but for now they do connect.

Plugged in the electrical connectors. No fuel added yet and no time to get any before heading to a family (wife's mom side) Christmas Eve Eve dinner #1. Had the wife turn the key so I could listen for the pump at the back of the car and be content with a job well done, but... nothing. ARG! Probed the fuse box with a test light, check, then the power and ground in the connector at the rear bulkhead with my voltmeter, 12.6v check. Off to dinner #1.

Didn't touch the car on Christmas Eve, family (wife's dad side) dinner #2 at our place.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Merry Christmas! After the morning presents, we headed into the garage to drop the tank yet again. I'm so glad it comes out easy.

Hooked up the electrical connector (that connects to the rear bulkhead) to my spare battery with some paper clips and alligator clips thinking maybe I screwed up something when replacing the power wire. Nothing. Pulled the connector off the top of the tank, and again hooked it straight to the battery. Again nothing. Time to pull the bucket out again. Once it was out, I unplugged the connector from the bucket to the pump and hooked it up the battery. A pleasant WHIRRRR surprise! Thankfully the pump isn't a dud.

Removed the "L" shaped plug from the bucket that the tank harness and the fuel pump harness plug into. The pump side had a bit of corrosion, so I cleaned it the best I could. Starting to wish I just went with a complete new bucket assembly.

Put the plug back in the bucket, connected the pump to it and gave it a quick test with the battery. WHIRRRR. Plug the tank harness back in and test with the battery. WHIRRRR. So far so good. Tank goes back in the car for the .... however many time. Plug in the connectors to the car and test. WHIRRR. Getting a bit excited now. Not going to button up the rear end/exhaust/driveshaft until it starts and runs for the first time. A quick run to the gas station for fuel, and back to add 4 gallons of premium.

Prime the key 4-5 times before the pressure hits the fuel rails. Well, comes spraying out the fitting to the fuel rails is more like it. Turns out, I didn't tighten either end of the -AN line from the hardline to the fuel rail. No biggie, get the mess cleaned up and lines tightened for another go.

Click for video.


What a beautiful Christmas gift!

Off to family Christmas dinner #3 at my brothers.

cobb

Can you explain more on what sub-frame connectors you would of purchased. I plan on using the Hooker cross member also.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

I think the Hooker crossmember one of the best designed xmembers out there. If I were normal and was using just one set of SFC, I'd use just the Spohn 503 along with the Hooker xmember. They fit together with no modification to either. Many people on here are happy with the Spohns.

However, I really liked the Alston SFC on my racecar and wanted to use them on this car, so much so I bought them just 2 weeks after buying the car. I was basically always planning on a custom xmember. I liked the Hooker xmember when it came out, but knew it wouldn't play nicely with the Alstons. I figured if something had to be fabbed from scratch, the xmember would be easier to do so that's why I didn't buy the Hooker before dropping the car off at the shop. I didn't want to give them the Alstons and Hooker and say "make these work" in case they could come up with something better from scratch. Vorshlag felt it would be better and cheaper to start with the Hooker xmember and modify it and the SFC to fit. It saved them some time and materials, so in the end I got the 'best' xmember and 'best' SFC in my mind.

Consider this too if you were to use the Alstons and the Hooker. With the way the Alstons had to be modified in my case, one end of the passenger side one is essentially bolted, and the other end welded. Not a huge concern for me since I have the 2nd set of Spohn SFC.

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

Awesome work! Car is going to be incredible when it's all done. I did a very rushed job when I did my swap (had 1 month to have engine in the car and running before my boss got back from vacation), but I do intend to go back into it and make it more personal, and your thread has lit up a lot of lightbulbs.

P.S. I'm still looking forward to an update on your thread about Knocker

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Thanks! There are days when I just wish it was done already, but most days I just look at the car and am just happy that everything is going fairly smoothly so far and I'm happy with the way things are turning out. I know there's going to be a lot of things I'll have to come back later and do, such as painting the engine bay, and I'm good with that.

I will get back to Knocker's updates, promise! Pulled off the covers, checked the fluids, and started it up this weekend. Even took it for a quick drive around the block.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

Pulled the engine harness back out so I could measure it for loom. I think I'm going to order TechFlex as it seems to do well in a thread by 87350IROC. What I can't decide is what to use to 'close' the loom where needed. Electrical tape, zip ties, or velcro strips?

I lengthened 3 wires that I hope were causing the entire harness to be tight to the PCM. I had planned on routing it over the blower fan, but I may end up having to settle for it going over the blower fan motor instead. Sometime I hope to send this all to someone to remake with the correct colors and without all the splices (+4 more inches).

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

It was cold for Texas the past week, but this weekend was very nice. Nice enough to wash Knocker!

I had had my machine shop add some square tubing and caps to a pair of rear sway bar axle brackets. I wanted to use the stock ones since they fit the locating tab on the axle rather than the ones from Spohn. This should keep the sway bar at, or at least closer to, stock level when I lower the car.



I did enlarge the holes slightly to work with a a pair of (42041) 3/8"-16 x 2-1/2" (Pipe Size) x 6 5/8" long U-Bolts I ordered from Fastenal. The U-bolts required a little squeezing in the vise. I cut them down about an inch. Also made some shims to go between the axle brackets and the sway bar bracket so that there shouldn't be any binding of the bushings on the sway bar.



On the front end, I replaced the strut mount retainer on both sides. One of the times trial fitting, a stud on the passenger side of the retainer stripped out. Ordered a replacement pair of retainers from J&M with new hardware. The old nuts were distorted thread locknuts. The new hardware was nylocks. Before installing the new retainers, I ran a die over the threads as the plating on them seemed a bit thick.

I had removed the rear interior panel for some reason a while ago, and needed something to do to allow me to procrastinate messing with measuring the harnesses, so I pulled the rear taillights. I installed the rear Plasma LED lights (10043 - red brake and turn, 10036 - reverse, 10006 - front turn signals) from West Coast Classic Cougar. They fit fine, tho I did run a deburring tool on the reverse and turn signal sockets to make a touch more clearance. They tested well, brighter than normal bulbs, good pattern, and, my favorite part, as LED's they have the instant on/off that incandescent bulbs don't.

While I had the lights out, I made a few splices to the wiring back there. I cut the brake wire on each side and connected it to the turn signal of that side. So right now, I have no brake lights, but both left lights go on with the left turn signal, and same for the right. When I get to wiring up the dash area, I'll feed the brake wire to the turn signal switch.