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You say you have a service manual,go to" Drivability and Emissions Fuel Injection Port"
5.0 liter F Series and read those charts.
That should guide you.
Obviously, I'm not part of the "IN" TPI crowd. But I noticed some photos further up in this thread where you were talking cap and rotor...and it looked like an HEI system.
I know a common failure mode for HEIs used to be a car that acted just like this. The module inside the HEI has two circuits. One for crank, one for run. After it sees a certain RPM, it cuts over from one to the other. If the RUN part of the module has failed, but the CRANK part is good, it will act like this. Crank, act like it wants to start and run, but just as your ready to let go of the key and stop cranking, it dies. This was CCC stuff for carbs...don't' know if it applies in the TPI world or not.
If you have some bad injectors, let me know. I have some extra factory ones that you can just have. Just pay for shipping. Not sure on condition. I bought them not to long ago. But have never seen them in person due to service.
Obviously, I'm not part of the "IN" TPI crowd. But I noticed some photos further up in this thread where you were talking cap and rotor...and it looked like an HEI system.
I know a common failure mode for HEIs used to be a car that acted just like this. The module inside the HEI has two circuits. One for crank, one for run. After it sees a certain RPM, it cuts over from one to the other. If the RUN part of the module has failed, but the CRANK part is good, it will act like this. Crank, act like it wants to start and run, but just as your ready to let go of the key and stop cranking, it dies. This was CCC stuff for carbs...don't' know if it applies in the TPI world or not.
Just thought I'd mention it.
So you're thinking it's the Ignition control module in the cap maybe?
If you have some bad injectors, let me know. I have some extra factory ones that you can just have. Just pay for shipping. Not sure on condition. I bought them not to long ago. But have never seen them in person due to service.
Thank you man, I'll let you know! And thank you for your service!
I'll defer to one of the more experienced TPI guys here. I know the principals involved, but have no first hand experience with it.
I will add that when those modules fail, they often get a little bubble or blister on the outside of the plastic case, from the circuit overheating and melting inside. It's an easy visual check.
Last edited by DynoDave43; 10-05-2016 at 09:22 PM.
Didn't read through this whole thing but I saw you were talking about 3.73 rear gears. I have a disc rear out of my '84 with factory 3.73s in it. Also from CT if you were interested.
Otherwise though, really solid car, I love the look!
Didn't read through this whole thing but I saw you were talking about 3.73 rear gears. I have a disc rear out of my '84 with factory 3.73s in it. Also from CT if you were interested.
Otherwise though, really solid car, I love the look!
Sure! PM me your price and once I get this thing runnin and ready to go I'll message you
Quick wash down today! You can really see here it needs a new paint job and front fenders. The scent was black cherry, smelled really good!
Cardboard got rained on from lastnight for my knees , and if the car has any leaks I dont know about ( which I havent found any yet so thats a good sign )
I think you could really improve it with a buff with a porter-cable rotary. the replacment of the fenders would be good as well but costly.
It really looks like regular paint almost like spray paint or something with a brush in some places. Almost like a high gloss paint without a clear coat. There's a guy locally who has fenders for $40 each I think I might pick up. I haven't gotten a good look on them yet. And I would need the front lower ground effects too
It really looks like regular paint almost like spray paint or something with a brush in some places. Almost like a high gloss paint without a clear coat. There's a guy locally who has fenders for $40 each I think I might pick up. I haven't gotten a good look on them yet. And I would need the front lower ground effects too
Change your spark plugs and make sure you put in AC Delco's i have had to put new plugs in every ta i have ever bought that sounded like that when they cranked.
Change your spark plugs and make sure you put in AC Delco's i have had to put new plugs in every ta i have ever bought that sounded like that when they cranked.
Ok I'll do that too. That was last on my list because it was the hardest I thought haha because of how cramped everything is. Did you replace them from the top or underneath your car? I wish I could do an AC/smog delete and make more room and clean up things in here haha!
Ok guys, I had enough time today to really inspect the car and take pictures of everything so everyone knows whats up with the car. HEAVY PIC LOAD, and I hope no one quotes this whole post... haha...
anyway It needs lots of body work, and it looks like the previous owners did in fact sand it down for a new paint job prep... and what happened was, they found a corvette they wanted to buy instead, so they went over the car with paint to make it " more appealing to the eye " I guess... and needed money fast to get the corvette. ( I confirmed this because the new corvette is on their facebook page now ) Looks like this was in a small fender bender, or hit a deer or something who knows...
The paint has like paint brush hairs in it, and I was able to pull some out and it's like a nylon hair or something of that artificial hair nature... Looks like a lot of air bubbles in the paint as well.
anyway, heres pictures I got today of the car so you know what I have to work with
You can see that both fog lights were taken out prior to paint, and never installed back in. The bumper looks dented in on the passengers side, and the hood and fender dont line up...
Definitely hail damage at some point...
This is the passenger side Fender hit with the side skits not exactly clipping on the fender like they used to, I hope these arent bent. You can see the hood and front bumper dont really line up as well...
Heres the hatch drivers side, notice the gap..
Passengers side gap.
Clips on the hatch, were these for the wrap around wing? Or rear louvers??
Terrible paint job over the emblems and everything...
And lastely... The only viable rust I can see on the exterior is on the drivers side door.
But thats pretty much the exterior of the car that I have to work with! The tarp is over the t-tops because we had rain pretty much all weekend and I'm just being safe ! I'll take interior shots some other day. Thanks for looking!
from the pics (and we thank you) it looks like a lot of body work but nothing beyond fixing. Hoping not much rust you cant see. Wondering about the interior. Hope its better. looks like they did not take care of this car at all or she sat a lot. the tail lights looked like something was taped to them. the clips on the window are for the wing I believe.
from the pics (and we thank you) it looks like a lot of body work but nothing beyond fixing. Hoping not much rust you cant see. Wondering about the interior. Hope its better. looks like they did not take care of this car at all or she sat a lot. the tail lights looked like something was taped to them. the clips on the window are for the wing I believe.
Yeah it is pretty beat up for sure. I'm gonna try and get interior pictures for you guys soon. As for the tail lights, I'm gonna go ahead and guess that the tape residue that was left, was either some kind of tail light tint, or something they had to protect the tail lights while they were going over the hatch with paint. The metal trim that goes around the hatch looks rusty as well.
I got to work on the car for an hour or so in the dark, So I didn't really get a chance to take pics of the interior.. But today I did the Ignition control module ... or half of it?
Duralast part number: DR124... I guess I have to buy the second piece Part number DR100?? in order for them to work?
Once I took the metal plate off I noticed this.. Looks kinda new like it was just replaced??
Once I put everything back into place and adjusted my timing where it was before, I started it and it actually ran for 5 seconds and died out... I got excited and thought that I would try immediately again and this time give it a little more throttle, but when I did I got nothin! the starter wasn't working...
I tried 5 more times or so, and then I got in the engine bay and started Jiggling things and checking the ground etc.. Sat back in the car and it fired up for another few seconds and died again. Then the starter started giving me problems. No luck tonight, was getting eating alive by mosquitos and I was starving so I called it a night around 8:30 or so.
So yesterday I tried taking out my starter for an hour or so and I just couldn't find a way to shimmy it out. I tried taking the solenoid off the starter but it just seems rusted together and wont budge. So, my next option was taking off the y-pipe from the passenger side exhaust manifold and those bolts do not want to move. I was afraid I was gonna break one so I soaked the 2 bolts on the flange where the y-pipe meets with PB blaster and let it sit over night... Hopefully they wont give me a hard time next time I work on the car and it'll just pop off! Very frustrating last couple of days!
Where I last left off with the car before attempting to change the starter... Things updated on the car...
new battery
new fuel pump
new fuel filter
added 93 octane gas
42 psi of fuel
new distributor cap and rotor
new ignition control module
I checked and got spark
did the paper clip flash codes and got the MAF sensor, cleaned it with MAF cleaner and plugged it back in ( still waiting to see if that worked )
I cranked the motor and it started up no problem! Idled for 5 seconds or so then stalled. I tried cranking it about 10 times after that and the starter was just clicking and clicking. Battery was charged, I checked the ground etc, tried disconnecting the battery and re-connecting, and no crank. So here I am replacing the starter and It's givin me a hard time! haha.
Yeah the battery was good, It was out of the car charging for a long time.
The starter is in with the help of a friend, The solenoid needed to be taken off for it to come out same for the replacement. The exhaust didnt need to be taken off. Back to square one. Checked for new flash codes and got the same MAF code 33 and a new code 22 which was Throttle position sensor.
Yeah the battery was good, It was out of the car charging for a long time.
The starter is in with the help of a friend, The solenoid needed to be taken off for it to come out same for the replacement. The exhaust didnt need to be taken off. Back to square one. Checked for new flash codes and got the same MAF code 33 and a new code 22 which was Throttle position sensor.
If your exhaust system is stock,that starter should have came out without taking it apart,it's a SOB but it will come out.
If your exhaust system is stock,that starter should have came out without taking it apart,it's a SOB but it will come out.
Maybe so, but it was so much easier and made a quicker job taking the solenoid off to pull the starter. I tried for an hour or so twisting and turning the starter with no luck.
[QUOTE=Faine;6086756]Finally snapped some interior pictures. As you can see, I have a lot of work ahead of me.
there be that UT4 stereo.. man. just line mine was. the interior looks like you just have to get the leather redone, the seats reapulstered and new carpet. just$$ man. the cut out of the body to the fuel pump tho. wow.
there be that UT4 stereo.. man. just line mine was. the interior looks like you just have to get the leather redone, the seats reapulstered and new carpet. just$$ man. the cut out of the body to the fuel pump tho. wow.
Yeah it was like that when I bought it. Thinking I can just throw replacement carpet over it who would know? Haha
Hey everyone. I've been doing a lot of thinking about the trans am and I'm thinking of possibly selling it or trading for a Camaro. Ive gotten a couple messages about the car already, but haven't really been getting the offers I've been looking for, so I'll probably keep it for now.
09-29-2016, 08:14 PM
But I noticed some photos further up in this thread where you were talking cap and rotor...and it looked like an HEI system.
Dave
